jonwvara 

In my experience, left-handed threaded cups don't have to be especially tight, since they tend to get tighter in use. As noted, that can make them difficult to remove. Right-handed French and Italian cups, on the other hand, do have to be really tight. I knew that was true of conventional cup-and-cone bottom brackets, but the first time I installed a French thread cartridge BB, I for some reason assumed that the cartridge design would somehow eliminate that problem, and just tightened the cartridge down firmly. Was I wrong! It worked loose when I was a long way from home. I now go for maximum tightness, plus a little blue thread locker. I have had no problems since.

Also, thanks for mention the IRD conversion cups. I had no idea such a thing existed. So far, I've been lucky enough never to have to deal with a frame with a Swiss threaded bb. Now I know where to turn if my luck ever runs out.

pcb 

[joke]Oh, yeah, I invented that.[/joke]

I live for those "D'uh----hey!" moments, when something that simple, practical and truly useful pops into your brain. I had one the other day I already forgot, hopefully I'll remember when I face the same situation in the stand next time. Had one a while back to use one of the dirty rags/bandanas seemingly always on-bench or under-foot to put between the chain and chainstay/bb shell before removing the rear wheel, to protect the frame finish. Only took 40yrs for that light bulb to go off in my brain.

Back on the evil splined bb removal tools, somebody's got a remover tool that has longer and supposedly deeper/better/somethinger teeth. I have one, it's all-chrome, just checked it and weirdly it has no mfr name stamping of any kind. Missed marketing oppty. It still slips, but a little less.

Unrelated sealed cartidge bb tip: Phil Wood bb retaining rings fit Shimano sealed bbs excellently, so if you have a situation where chainring/chainsty clearance etc makes you want to position the bb in a way that the drive-side fixed cup doesn't allow, Phil ring to the rescue. Only works on the bbs with a removable fixed cup, obvs.

I didn't invent that, either, read it online somewhere.

dddd

On my UN71 bottom bracket, I must have over-torqued the alloy fixed cup, because on the first ride I heard a "ping" during a steep climb, and then a tingly sound from that point on. The flange had snapped off! After removing the driveside crank to inspect the cup and remove the rattling ring, I also noted that the tool still fit the remaining splines, so took advantage of opportunity and removed the left arm so I could move the bb over to the left 1mm and improve chainline. Presto, I had an adjustable chainline Shimano cartridge bottom bracket!

73StellaSX76

Good tip akin to the freewheel removal safety method. Just an FYI, I think Park replaced the BBT-2 with the BBT-22 to accommodate the larger Octalink spindle diameter when they came out. I remember boring out a BBT-2 to make it fit. If all one uses are square taper bbs then no need.

I also find that a very solid support under the bb shell goes a long way toward easing removal. Orienting the tool so that the loosening (or tightening) load is toward the support helps too.

RobbieTunes

This could save much gnashing of teeth. On the cartridge and elsewhere.

mack_turtle

I would think that this would not be needed to get a solid 30 foot-pounds or so on a BB cup if you just use a steady hand. however, this technique is critical for cracking loose a BB that does not want to come out because it's corroded, rusted, or was over-tightened when first installed.

nlerner

Wow, look what came in the mail today, something I completely forgot about ordering:



These were shipped literally on the slow boat from China.