Shortening a steel steerer-tube: Why not use a pipe-cutter?
02-08-23, 11:02 AM
#26
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My strong impression is that most people who stick together steel frames for a living or hobby are doing threaded headsets for aesthetic reasons, or using carbon or MTB forks.
Factory forks come uncut but steel ones are now vastly outnumbered.
So I figure while one guy might do it a lot, most aren't much.
And finally the Surly LHT and Cross Check were long well known for having very long top tubes (10mm longer than the seat tube) that resulted in a stack of spacers topped with a riser stem.
Factory forks come uncut but steel ones are now vastly outnumbered.
So I figure while one guy might do it a lot, most aren't much.
And finally the Surly LHT and Cross Check were long well known for having very long top tubes (10mm longer than the seat tube) that resulted in a stack of spacers topped with a riser stem.
My two Surlys (Wednesday and Karate Monkey), Soma Fog Cutter, and Salsa Casseroll all have steel steerers.
I guess I’m that one guy who does it a lot
Contrary to what someone else said earlier, pipe cutters work fine on steel steerers.
Last edited by Kapusta; 02-08-23 at 01:03 PM.
02-08-23, 12:52 PM
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That said, I wouldn’t use a tubing cutter since it does raise a lip and that requires more clean up. One of these helps with the clean up of either cut but the tubing cutter requires much more effort to get rid of the burrs.
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02-08-23, 02:50 PM
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so on a steel threaded steer tube what are pros using to make sure the threads stay nice and not buggered up while using a hacksaw? I have a vintage fork I need to cut down but have been worried about keeping the threads nice and clean.
02-08-23, 03:35 PM
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get an old steel headset cup/cone/locknut(has to be one without the top flange) thread it on past your cut mark. Cut with hacksaw, clean it up with files, then remove the cup cone or locknut you put on there.
02-09-23, 06:25 AM
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Cutting guide that cleans the threads when removed after cutting.
02-09-23, 07:36 AM
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https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...saw-guide-sg-1
Cutting guide that cleans the threads when removed after cutting.
Cutting guide that cleans the threads when removed after cutting.
If someone has one I would gladly rent it from them.
Last edited by jadmt; 02-09-23 at 07:58 AM.
02-10-23, 12:04 AM
#32
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To prevent mushrooming with a pipe cutter, sandwiching the tube being cut with tubes inside and outside might help. The mushrooming is restricted to the inside and outside tubes.
02-10-23, 12:17 AM
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Pipe cutter works fine but expect to clean up the end some. Takes a few seconds with a 9" sanding disk, give the end a quick spin against the disk, another few seconds with a dremel takes care care of the inside of the steerer. Oddly, as I read this, I realized I don't use a hacksaw cause I don't own one and I'm not certain I ever did; and I wouldn't use my antique dovetail saws on a steel tube.
02-10-23, 12:23 AM
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Sorry but I can't resist.
I LOVE how explanations about using pipe cutters are the best arguments for using a hacksaw.*
* the Rodney Dangerfield of hand tools.
I LOVE how explanations about using pipe cutters are the best arguments for using a hacksaw.*
* the Rodney Dangerfield of hand tools.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-10-23 at 12:31 AM.
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02-10-23, 12:29 AM
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All you need is a steel upper head cup, probably available in the junk bin of an old school bike shop or coop.
If you can't cut straight, use two and make the cut between them.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-10-23, 09:05 AM
#36
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Park Tool now offers the SG-6. Per their web page for the item, it can in fact also be used to cut threaded steerers, but the cut end will need to be beveled afterwards. The web page offers directions on how to use the SG-6 to do this.
FBinNY offers a good solution if you don't want to drop $50+ for one of the above. Two old threaded headset nuts should do the trick, forming a guide when tightened close enough to guide the blade without causing binding. If the one threaded on first is steel, it should also do a decent job of at least partially dressing the cut threads when removed. Beveling the threads before removing the last steel headset nut might be a decent idea here too; I'll defer to others with more experience on that point.
Or you could just take it to a LBS that knows what they're doing re: threaded steerers and pay them to do it.
02-10-23, 02:58 PM
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While I agree that a dedicated saw guide isn't strictly necessary, especially for a one-off job, I did pick up this "Accu-Cut" saw guide from Island Cycles at some point, with pre-measured slots for "Campagnolo" (42mm), "Dura-Ace" (37mm), and "Other Shimano" (33mm) slots. You insert the fork (sans crown race) into the bare frame (no headset cups) so the crown race seat is flush against the lower head lug, tighten the thumb screw, and saw away using the appropriate slot:
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02-10-23, 05:18 PM
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Not to mention, I learned many years ago to put the blade in what would be considered "backwards" by most, to cut on the pull stroke just like you will find on the finest Japanese Pull Saws. If you do this you never need call it a "hack" saw again.
