merziac

We're not here to talk you "out" of anything.

These don't take a huge investment in tools compared to most we deal with, you can get away with many basic hand tools that you probably have already.

Schweinhund

I have a bunch of tools, what's a few more?
I rebuild bikes mostly for something non-destructive to do. Some get sold for a profit, some go to homeless or less fortunate in some way.
My main objective is parts for personal stuff.
Been known to give oddball stuff away to forum members just to get something gone.
It can become an addiction.

Smaug1

I picked up the bike stand from a local Craigslist seller this morning. Got the old Varsity up in the air.

Next step: seat swap to the Brooks B67 (springer) some light de-rusting and maybe wheel truing.

Have any of you tried naval jelly on rusty on chrome, or will it take off the chrome too?

Have you got a link to a home brew wheel truing stand and maybe some instructions? Or a cheap one to buy?

SurferRosa

​​​​​​Flip the bike upside down.



Use the brake pads for lateral truing. Use a spoke behind the frame fixed with a rubber band for the vertical.

And read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Nokton

I've only done it once, but I had excellent results using wet, crumpled aluminum foil to clean up some rusty chrome on a Schwinn Continental. I used it on the crank and rims and thought it did a great job.

merziac

Good call on the Brooks, you can use the brakes for truing, replace the pads and holders with 2 nuts on a bolt for a better workaround, using the nuts to move/hold the bolt in, out and closer to the rim.

Navel jelly will scorch some of the chrome, Turtle wax rust remover and chrome polish does a great job on rust with a little patience and elbow grease, slather it on, let dry and repeat as needed.

AdventureManCO 

I've missed your posts, Vintage Schwinn .

AdventureManCO 

Please do. If not for you, for us.

SirMike1983 

On chrome, I prefer oxalic acid bath or Evaporust over Naval Jelly. The last few sets of chrome bars I did were all done in a basin filled with oxalic acid bath water. It cleans the insides and the outsides of the bars of rust. Another option is WD-40 and bronze/copper wool if the rust is lighter and you don't want to go the bath route.

Schweinhund

Something else to add to your bag of tricks is penetrating oil and the absolute cheapest dollar store or 4 for 2.99 at true value stainless steel brushes.
penetrating oil for obvious reasons and a *cheap* stainless steel brush because it's guaranteed to be softer than the chrome.
Don't knock it til you try it.

what I started with

AdventureManCO 

Is this from your 'On the Road Again' challenge? If so, kudos. That picture alone should get you another raffle ticket at least!

Smaug1

I went back to my original first plan; take it to the LBS and ask them for a tune up with full disclosure.

They are working on a quote for new shift cables, new rear brake cable, wheel truing, brake pads, replace the missing spoke.

It’s a funny situation at this shop now. The owner announced her was closing and his good mechanics found other jobs. EPA has the building sale on hold, so he had to hire some teenagers to help with the servicing. Now he’s training three of them. Yelling at some of them: “Why did you do THAT?!”

“Hey, what are you doing? C’mere. Don’t change a customer’s seat height to clamp it in the stand without first marking the original location.”

Then, they are hurt and one called him a bully, he said he is just communicating.

I could tell that the boys’ dads aren’t allowed by the moms to talk to them like that at home; they’re getting their first dose of reality at their summer job.

We’ll see what the quote comes back at and take it from there.

SirMike1983 

Our go-to local bike shop closed maybe 10 years ago here (10 would be my guess). At the end, it was similar to the shop you are describing - an older manager and younger/teenaged type mechanics who were doing repairs as best they could, but without the deeper experience and knowledge of how to go about the repairs. Experience and institutional knowledge are getting harder to find.

SkinGriz

The thread goes on for as long as a varsity frame lasts.
Oh that rust? The tubing wall is so thick it will take 50 years for the rust to eat through. For better or worse.

Smaug1

I got a quote yesterday: $210

Includes:

• replacing all cables/outers except the front brake
• Re-packing all bearings
• Truing wheels
• Replace a missing spoke

The kid who answered the phone was kind of vague about the date, but he thought by the end of this coming week. I expect to call Friday and find out they didn't start, but hopefully I'm happily surprised.

Velo Mule

$40 for the bike, $210 for getting it on the road. It looks like you joined the club. Welcome. Enjoy the ride.

And I'm looking forward to first ride impressions.

chain_whipped

Hilarious to fall for the Varsity. Its a kids bike wanna be racer from that long gone era. I dumped approx. 30 of them during a few weeks of covid holiday. Under $20 each, many NOS. I can't define what is collectible to one, people even save dust. Schwinn made piles of the Varsity. Just for schlitz beer and giggles, I weighed a Varsity 'junior' sized. All original with its reflectors and kick stand. THIRTY SIX POUNDS! My 60's beater Schwinn Racer beastly fixed gear, is 8 pounds lighter and far superior to the Varsity. Do yourself a favor., pour your time, money and physical energy pedaling into it. Get it out of your system and then sell it for $5. Haha

Smaug1

It's the iconic bike of my youth.
Suggesting the Racer is superior because it's 8 lbs. lighter is silly to me. I can see the allure to a Racer, but if it's about weight, I'm not looking at vintage Schwinns at all.

Also, as I've said elsewhere, I'm 25 lbs. overweight. If I lost that 25 lbs, I could ride this Schwinn as fast as I can ride my 23 lb new Trek today.

If I'm going to ride a heavy bike around, I'm going with a vintage Schwinn, not a beach cruiser, like a lot of people pick.

SurferRosa

They're going to overhaul then adjust the headset, bottom bracket and both hubs for that price? If these teenagers are competent, that's a helluva deal from any bike shop.

Smaug1

They didn't say anything about the headset.

I just called, they're saying Tuesday now. (because of walk-ins and such)

daverup 

I'd check with them on the headset. Those bearings might be worse than the others.

Smaug1

I got a call from the shop yesterday. They said the rear derailleur is shot. I said I used it when I tested it and it worked OK. They said they put it back and it appeared one of the springs inside it is messed up and it needs replacing. They said it'll be at least another 1.5 weeks, while they look for a suitable replacement derailleur.

Has anyone got a simple derailleur that will work on this bike they'd sell me? 5-speed cassette, and I want to keep the original friction shifters.

Should I ask for the original derailleur back and maybe try to work on it? (can they be disassembled, rebuilt and re-assembled?)

Sedgemop 

Create a "Wanted" thread over on the For Sale sub-forum. A low cost Suntour derailleur should pop up before long.

tkamd73 

@Smaug1, I’ve got a Suntour VGT you can have for free, long cage, so should work with your cluster, and probably superior to the original Schwinn one, it’s all there just needs some cleanup.
Tim

Smaug1

Thanks so much for the kind offer! (I PM'd you)