Should I Buy This Grand Jubile?
#1
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Should I Buy This Grand Jubile?
In an earlier post I asked for an opinion on a new C&V, and this one of the contenders, a Motobecane Grand Jubile from my local CL. The seller doesn't know much about it (got it with a storage locker he bought), but it appears to be in OK shape but priced right (asking $295 but I believe will accept $250). Anyone know more about it...how original is it...what year it is...is it worth it...a good candidate for a noob mechanic like me? (Is that a ding on the downtube or just a paint blem?) As always, your feedback and advice wold be appreciated!
Listing:
Motobecane Men's VTG Motobecane Grand Jubilee Road Bike Touring 62 cm
Bases Haubans Fourreaux Vitus 172.
12 speed
Stand over height is 35 in.
Made in France.
Clean.
Everything is in working condition and it rides good.
Ready for use.
Quick release rims.
It shows some minor wear from use.
No dings or dents.
Good tires.
Pics (more below):
Listing:
Motobecane Men's VTG Motobecane Grand Jubilee Road Bike Touring 62 cm
Bases Haubans Fourreaux Vitus 172.
12 speed
Stand over height is 35 in.
Made in France.
Clean.
Everything is in working condition and it rides good.
Ready for use.
Quick release rims.
It shows some minor wear from use.
No dings or dents.
Good tires.
Pics (more below):
#3
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looks VERY original. hardly ridden and stored inside.. did not see a "ding in the downtube"
250 is a fair price.
if it fits, a very nice bike.
/markp
250 is a fair price.
if it fits, a very nice bike.
/markp
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#4
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I, and many others around here, are fans of the Moto GJ. They're great al-rounders and the ride quality is high. A lot of the fandom is centered around the earlier Reynolds-tubed models, though. Bike in question is an '81-'83 Vitus tubed GJ. This era is a little underrated and undervalued in my opinion. Locally, I see good examples sit unsold for months in the $200 range. I bought a very dirty but lightly used example for $150 earlier this year. This bike looks to be in good shape. Seems to have a non-original rear derailleur. If this bike is ready to ride and doesn't need new cables, $200 is a fair price. If you've gotta do some work, price will need to be lower. At $295, seller is probably going to be sitting on that thing for awhile.
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Should I buy this Grand Jubile?
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...the original derailleurs on these were Huret Jubilee (thus the Jubilee designation in the model name).
I don't know what that's worth to you, in terms of originality ?
Because of this feature, sometimes you see replacement rear derailleurs that are poorly fitted, because they don't compensate for the Huret stop position on the rear dropout. Your example might have an issue in that regard, but it's hard to tell without having it in front of me on a stand. You can sometimes find the originals for sale on the ebay, but they were kind of pricey at one time. The Jubilee derailleur is quite pretty, if a little less robust than many. $250 is still not a bad price, if you are tall enough that it fits. I would not buy it just because it's pretty, if it doesn't fit well.
...the original derailleurs on these were Huret Jubilee (thus the Jubilee designation in the model name).
I don't know what that's worth to you, in terms of originality ?
Because of this feature, sometimes you see replacement rear derailleurs that are poorly fitted, because they don't compensate for the Huret stop position on the rear dropout. Your example might have an issue in that regard, but it's hard to tell without having it in front of me on a stand. You can sometimes find the originals for sale on the ebay, but they were kind of pricey at one time. The Jubilee derailleur is quite pretty, if a little less robust than many. $250 is still not a bad price, if you are tall enough that it fits. I would not buy it just because it's pretty, if it doesn't fit well.
#8
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...the original derailleurs on these were Huret Jubilee (thus the Jubilee designation in the model name).
I don't know what that's worth to you, in terms of originality ?
Because of this feature, sometimes you see replacement rear derailleurs that are poorly fitted, because they don't compensate for the Huret stop position on the rear dropout. Your example might have an issue in that regard, but it's hard to tell without having it in front of me on a stand. You can sometimes find the originals for sale on the ebay, but they were kind of pricey at one time. The Jubilee derailleur is quite pretty, if a little less robust than many. $250 is still not a bad price, if you are tall enough that it fits. I would not buy it just because it's pretty, if it doesn't fit well.
...the original derailleurs on these were Huret Jubilee (thus the Jubilee designation in the model name).
I don't know what that's worth to you, in terms of originality ?
Because of this feature, sometimes you see replacement rear derailleurs that are poorly fitted, because they don't compensate for the Huret stop position on the rear dropout. Your example might have an issue in that regard, but it's hard to tell without having it in front of me on a stand. You can sometimes find the originals for sale on the ebay, but they were kind of pricey at one time. The Jubilee derailleur is quite pretty, if a little less robust than many. $250 is still not a bad price, if you are tall enough that it fits. I would not buy it just because it's pretty, if it doesn't fit well.
By the early 80's, the year range of the OP's potential bike, the Grand Jubile was sporting a Simplex SX 410/610 rear derailleur. Not highly though of, or elegant like the earlier Huret, but actually work pretty well. This:
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Last edited by Sedgemop; 08-19-23 at 09:43 AM.
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#9
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#10
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Shorty fenders and an avocet touring! I am sold. But yeah I hope you are 6'3..
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Looks as though it should clean up nicely and after repacking all the bearings, maybe new chain and brake pads, be a fun ride. How true are the wheels?
Probably came with an Ideale saddle and I'd spring for one, which will greatly enhance the looks.
Good luck!
Rick
Probably came with an Ideale saddle and I'd spring for one, which will greatly enhance the looks.
Good luck!
Rick
#13
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So I guess it depends on whether you plan on keeping gearing that would require a long cage rear derailleur, and what you are willing to spend on replacement.
The all metal ones from that era work pretty well, and are reasonably, if not exceptionally, durable. I think they're expensive because they didn't make and sell that many long cage versions.
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...as an afterthought, if you want the deluxe version of that era of Simplex, you'd probably spend the extra money to buy some Simplex retro-friction shifters, which work very well indeed,
...as an afterthought, if you want the deluxe version of that era of Simplex, you'd probably spend the extra money to buy some Simplex retro-friction shifters, which work very well indeed,
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The Avocet saddle is a model Touring WI. I suspect the W means for women. You could fix that with a Sharpie pen tho.
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I wish my ‘78 had a set of bottle bosses. Price is ok for such a long term keeper. Is this n+1=1?
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#18
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This is absolutely n+1…I’m still waiting on a Raleigh International but keep seeing this open tab. I’m thinking that it’s going to need more than I want to put into it (Simplex RD)…if it was perceived as a screaming deal I would take the plunge but it seems that it’s priced appropriately so maybe I’ll just wait.
#19
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the simplex RD would be a net downgrade in shifting performance. I would not make that trade.
but you do you. The bike is in very good condition and does not show evidence of stored outside or corrosive environment (like near the beach)
/markp
but you do you. The bike is in very good condition and does not show evidence of stored outside or corrosive environment (like near the beach)
/markp
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I'm not familiar with that model Nervar crankset, but the older Nervars I've owned take a rare chainring bolt pattern, 128 mm BCD. Not a problem if you like the rings on there, but it makes it harder to nerd out on getting exactly the gears you want. Or to replace a ring when it wears out. Though of course you can always just replace the cranks with another model with easier chainring availability. Or maybe this newer Nervar went to an industry-standard BCD like 130 mm? Dunno.
The pedals are made for toe clips, so replace those if not going with clips, they're uncomfortable on the bottom, and it's a pain to have to flip them over every time.
Anyone know, by this time, were the frame tubes 1" and 1-1/8", or still metric? (Older Motos I know and love were metric.) Does it take a metric stem (22.0 mm)? Threads, English, French or Swiss? Moto changed threading a couple times over the years.
Replacement straddle cables for those brakes are unobtainium. It's the rarest type of Mafac straddle. Nothing wrong with it unless one gets kinked or frayed — the ones on there will probably last a lifetime and they work fine.
Mark B
The pedals are made for toe clips, so replace those if not going with clips, they're uncomfortable on the bottom, and it's a pain to have to flip them over every time.
Anyone know, by this time, were the frame tubes 1" and 1-1/8", or still metric? (Older Motos I know and love were metric.) Does it take a metric stem (22.0 mm)? Threads, English, French or Swiss? Moto changed threading a couple times over the years.
Replacement straddle cables for those brakes are unobtainium. It's the rarest type of Mafac straddle. Nothing wrong with it unless one gets kinked or frayed — the ones on there will probably last a lifetime and they work fine.
Mark B
#22
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I also like shorty fenders which is maybe puts me in the 1%?
#23
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I'm not familiar with that model Nervar crankset, but the older Nervars I've owned take a rare chainring bolt pattern, 128 mm BCD. Not a problem if you like the rings on there, but it makes it harder to nerd out on getting exactly the gears you want. Or to replace a ring when it wears out. Though of course you can always just replace the cranks with another model with easier chainring availability. Or maybe this newer Nervar went to an industry-standard BCD like 130 mm? Dunno.
The pedals are made for toe clips, so replace those if not going with clips, they're uncomfortable on the bottom, and it's a pain to have to flip them over every time.
Anyone know, by this time, were the frame tubes 1" and 1-1/8", or still metric? (Older Motos I know and love were metric.) Does it take a metric stem (22.0 mm)? Threads, English, French or Swiss? Moto changed threading a couple times over the years.
Replacement straddle cables for those brakes are unobtainium. It's the rarest type of Mafac straddle. Nothing wrong with it unless one gets kinked or frayed — the ones on there will probably last a lifetime and they work fine.
Mark B
The pedals are made for toe clips, so replace those if not going with clips, they're uncomfortable on the bottom, and it's a pain to have to flip them over every time.
Anyone know, by this time, were the frame tubes 1" and 1-1/8", or still metric? (Older Motos I know and love were metric.) Does it take a metric stem (22.0 mm)? Threads, English, French or Swiss? Moto changed threading a couple times over the years.
Replacement straddle cables for those brakes are unobtainium. It's the rarest type of Mafac straddle. Nothing wrong with it unless one gets kinked or frayed — the ones on there will probably last a lifetime and they work fine.
Mark B
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I keep thinking of that saying, usually applied to cars, that the French follow no one and no one follows the French. This bike may not be the best candidate for me to learn on…probably better off with something more user friendly. If you were recommending a C&V to someone like myself just starting to work on their own bikes, what might that be?
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I keep thinking of that saying, usually applied to cars, that the French follow no one and no one follows the French. This bike may not be the best candidate for me to learn on…probably better off with something more user friendly. If you were recommending a C&V to someone like myself just starting to work on their own bikes, what might that be?
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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