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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Off the Wall Wheel Plan

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Old 02-18-20, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
DaveLee,
Mad Honk here. I have always ridden sew-ups and am now finding myself unable to find tubulars under $150 for the 19c variety I am used to. But they are very low in rolling resistance and total wattage used by me. So my advice is to find some of those, or look to a 18c rim like the Weinmann and use a 19c or 20c clincher tire. The clincher tires are still out there but cost about $20 if you can find a shop that has them or $50 from the big stores. The rims cost me around $25 from JBI and a wheel set is doable for about $100. HTH, MH
Hi, MH. To be sure that I understand here, you are suggesting some 20'ish clinchers as an option. Is that right? From all that I have read, current thinking is that on less than perfect pavement that is not the lowest RR. But I wonder if I am confused about something here.

Thanks.

dave
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Old 02-18-20, 08:18 PM
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Dave,
If the pavement is an issue, then yes a larger tire size will work better. But if you are looking for lower rolling resistance, the smaller the footprint of the tire is the better.
Think about how you will ride the route and the pavement you will be going over. Kinda like deciding on a fairway wood or a hybrid from 175 out. What are the conditions you are facing? I'm not sure about your route, but if rolling resistance is an issue go for the smallest tire you can find. Some of the newer tires have great rolling resistance for what they are but are still higher in wattage used by the rider. HTH ,MH
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Old 02-18-20, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
Why would someone wait if they were 70 years old? The life expectancy of the knee would exceed the life expectancy of the person.
I always bet on the come. Dave'll probably see 100.
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Old 02-19-20, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
DaveLee,
Mad Honk here. I have always ridden sew-ups and am now finding myself unable to find tubulars under $150 for the 19c variety I am used to. But they are very low in rolling resistance and total wattage used by me. So my advice is to find some of those, or look to a 18c rim like the Weinmann and use a 19c or 20c clincher tire. The clincher tires are still out there but cost about $20 if you can find a shop that has them or $50 from the big stores. The rims cost me around $25 from JBI and a wheel set is doable for about $100. HTH, MH

I think you'd like these:

https://www.tufotires.com/tufo_elite_jet_tubular.html
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Old 02-19-20, 12:47 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
It's a timing issue. They last about 20 years. So you do 47-67-87 on that one - except they won't usually do one if you're over 80, though it's a possibility. The OP is over 70, so probably should wait if possible.
My surgeon expects 25 to 30 years. But possibly more. Knee replacements done in the 80s are still going. Yes, there are various failures. And the technologies and materials are vastly improved from the 80s. So push that 25 to 30 from 47. Now 72 to 77 doesn't seem so bad.

It seems many doctors tell people they are too young. Mine said I was too young not to LIVE a full life. Nearly 10 years in and it is amazing.
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Old 02-19-20, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
Dave,
If the pavement is an issue, then yes a larger tire size will work better. But if you are looking for lower rolling resistance, the smaller the footprint of the tire is the better.
Think about how you will ride the route and the pavement you will be going over. Kinda like deciding on a fairway wood or a hybrid from 175 out. What are the conditions you are facing? I'm not sure about your route, but if rolling resistance is an issue go for the smallest tire you can find. Some of the newer tires have great rolling resistance for what they are but are still higher in wattage used by the rider. HTH ,MH
As I understand things, the contact size is strictly a function of weight and tire pressure. On rougher surfaces the dynamics of the tire/road surface kind of dictate RR. And on smaller tires the contact patch is longer than with wider tires (but the same size at the same pressure). And longer is worse, not better (given the same total pressure).

OTOH, there are other factors at play, so there is some optimum width (where that optimum is quite narrow on a almost perfect surface velodrome). So on 'typical good' asphalt (NOT chipseal but not that super smooth stuff right after being put down either), what is the optimum width WRT RR? I guess I really don't know.

dave

ps. From 175 yards out that is either a easy 9i or maybe a hard PW (for the rest of you, that is a golf joke - kinda' like backing off from 430 watts to 410 watts on a 30 minute climb).
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