noglider 

If the derailleur doesn't hold long-term, I suggest a shim made out of metal.

pcfxer

I'm using the shims from JensonUSA, they are plastic and seem to work fine...for now. The SRAM Force is holding the 26.6mm seat tube. I'm using the 1 1/8" - 1 1/4" shim.

Yes I did see the TDF with the MASSIVE crash at the end. Does anyone know of any live streaming for the tour? At work they have a projector for whimpy world cup cry baby because he touched, "pushed" me but not the I am going faster than a car and a dog made me fall and road rash my entire right-side of the body and I think I have a broken collar bone but I'm going to keep riding and stay competitive. [/vent]

jan nikolajsen 

Worked on the chainline. As it turned out just mounting the crank and checking the measurements was all that was required.


From a point halfway between the rings to the center line of the frame is about 43mm.


The rear spacing is 130mm (with the hub spreading the original 126'ish mm). So from the center line of the hub to the inside face of the drop is 130 divided by 2 = 65mm. From the same hub center line to the idealized chainline we measured 43mm at the crank.
65 minus 43 = 22mm, which should be the distance from the inside face of the right drop to the middle of the cluster.


Now all I need is to go find a 10 speed chain.... anybody know if I can keep using my old chain breaker on these narrow ones?

USAZorro

You're cold setting a 753 frame? Danger Will Robinson!! I've seen people with unimpeachable credentials as builders saying it's sure to result in catastrophe.

jan nikolajsen 

For some reason I think I will loose less sleep over such a bold and daring act, than even considering riding a carbon fork.

Anyway, the rear on this bike is more like 127mm, and although having not measured the hub over the lock nuts, I can say that inserting the rear wheel is completely effortless.

gaucho777 

Now that is ingenuity. I'd be worried about the FD slipping, but if it holds then more power to you! Just a thought: Maybe fill the gap above the PVC with wax to keep the gunk out. Btw, I think it's comical that I needed some spacers to get the Avocet on my LOOK and settled on a piece of irrigation tubing, and you resorted to PVC for spacing your FD. Who knew the plumbing isle had so much to offer the bicycle mechanic.

jan nikolajsen 

Gaucho, did I mention that your story was pivotal in my sudden urge to try one of these frames?

USAZorro

I use my chain breaker on 9 speed chains. Never had the opportunity to use a 10-speed chain.

pcfxer

I used my chain tool on a KMC DX10SC. Worked just fine though I figured out quickly that the SRAM instructions don't translate directly to KMC chains. I really like the PVC idea . I will be using that if my SRAM Force FD slides away with my current expensive-but-cheap plastic from JensonUSA...site didn't say whether it was metal or plastic .

My Bianchi project is awaiting SRAM shifters but the current dt frictions shift 9/10 cogs buuut that's a longer story. LBS jammed the last cog on and torqued the lock ring so I'm going into the shop AGAIN . They've been very good so far .

USAZorro

fify.

Jan, as you didn't have to wrestle with the frame to fit the wheel in, I'm pretty sure you'll be fine. Attempting to force 753 is not a good idea. If you have any doubts, ask Hilary, or John Thompson about the dangers. I'd sure not wish to read about any further mishaps involving you.

bigbossman 

Yes - there is acutally a bonafide official insert that is made for just this purpose. I think I paid $7 for mine, and used it on the Palo Alto when I first built it up. So far, 6,000+ miles with no issues at all. The PVC looks like a good solution, though!

Mine looks like this:

Old Fat Guy

Jan, if you are using a Campagnolo chain, it is not advised to re-use a pin. You are better off using a Campy specific 10 speed quick link.

I have used my old park CT-3 chain breaker to shorten the chain to proper length, but have since bought the new CT-4.2 chain tool.
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=5&item=CT-4.2

I know you don't have an aversion to picking up a new tool now and again.

gaucho777 

No, but I had some suspicions. I hope you are as pleased with yours in the end as I am mine.

buldogge

Granted, I have limited Campy 10s chain experience...but...my Veloce 10s chain is running well after sizing it with a standard Park tool and joining it with an SRAM Powerlock.

FWIW...

Old Fat Guy

That will work just fine. You should NEVER try to reuse one of the pins, like you would on a chain like most of us are used to.

I used to just size it right the first time and use the supplied extra pin, now I use one of the compatible removeable links, and carry an extra one in my seat bag as well. I use a Campy chain, and a KMC Missing Link, 2 for $10: https://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A0309

Mr IGH

Love the Campy toolset, brings back memories, thanks for all the great pix. Get well soon!

JohnDThompson 

Agreed. DON'T attempt to cold set 753. Reynolds stresses that 753 should never be cold set. At Trek we tried cold-setting a damaged 753 team frame, just to see what would happen. It would just flex and return to the original set until we exceeded a certain level of force. Then the tubing buckled.

Don't try it at home unless you have a disposable 753 frameset and some time to waste.

jan nikolajsen 

Okay, all you 753 owners: Don't cold set your rear spacing!!

This I take to mean OVER-bending, with or without the help of levers, bars, muscle etc, until the frame springs back only as far as the new wider drop out spacing, and stays there.

Very different from the permanent adjustment procedure of cold setting is the benign act of simply inserting a rear hub 3-4mm too wide. I would be very surprised if this can cause any adverse effects on the La Vie Claire LOOK frame in question, given the moderate amount of force needed. In fact the rear wheel slipped in so easily that I had completely forgotten about spacing issues until I read the posts above.

Actually, I wonder how many of us really bother cold setting when 'upgrading' a 126mm frame, of any type of steel, to modern drive trains.

USAZorro

I'm guilty on one count. I don't have all the cool tools though, and paid the shop to do it.

Sorry to have sidetracked the thread a bit, but I feel better knowing you're not the next Dr. Strangelove, riding a bomb to your doom.

mudboy

Actually, that was Major "King" Kong, played by Slim Pickens.

cellsite60

Hey, just found this thread, this is a lovely build, gonna be awesome when its finished.
Subscribed !!!

Sorry to hear about your injury, get well soon

Fivethumbs

[Actually, I wonder how many of us really bother cold setting when 'upgrading' a 126mm frame, of any type of steel, to modern drive trains.[/QUOTE]

I've got an old magazine where Shimano said they designed the first 130mm 8 speed Dura Ace hub to be forced into 126mm spaced frames. Remember, when Shimano first came out with 8 speed nobody was making 130mm frames.

king*stink

Man I'm now in love with these look frames. Im now officially on the lookout for 1. I can't wait to see how this build turns out. I love the paint jobs that were put on them. Reminds me a lot of mondrians art.

blaise_f

Vintage Look frames have a special place in my heart. Looking good.

redneckwes

Beautiful bike Jan,

I've cold set a few frames using one of my Jorgensen clamps, I won't recommend that anyone in their right mind do it though.

But I've also bent a 20-30 raleigh back into shape by clamping the chainstay and dropout to my woodworking bench and leaning on the frame. With wooden faces in the vices of course. Definitely not something I'd try with a frame made of R531or better!