wheelhot

Toe overlap is when your feet touches the front wheel. You'll have to set your clipped feet at the most forward position (3/9 o clock) and rotate your handlebars

So usually you'll either have none or if you do have, how many overlap.

And for your height, size 58 sounds about right.

wheelhot

That's an interesting setup, 100mm stem and a smaller handlebar. I guess your toe overlap only happen at the tip of your toes? And a very minor one at that? And what's your shoe size?

dynawolf

No toe overlap

Chandne

Not a smaller bar- a 44cm wide bar but with a 70mm reach. The stem is effectively a 90 since it has rise. My shoe size is 12 so I'd hit the front sides at times and hated it. I am comfortable with a short stem and am used to it since I use 60mm stems (and 780mm bars) on large frames when mtn biking. A 56 with a 110 stem would be good but I'd prefer to use a custom taller head tube and would have to deal with toe overlap at times...usually on steep uphill switchbacks standing but sometimes sitting too.

wheelhot

So when you mentioned overlap, this happens only on your 56 Roubaix, was it stock tire size or you went 32mm?

And I guess it was a minor overlap as you mention at times?

Hmm, I already returned my 54 Roubaix and tested a 56 Allez, no toe overlap and it felt good (probably on a lil big side because of the handlebar and stack). Now waiting for my dealer to procure a 56 Roubaix as apparently it went out of stock :annoyed:

I wonder if 58 would be good as well but it might be too big? I'm 180cm with inseam of 85cm

Shoe Size 11.5US

As for why I'm a lil particular about overlap is cause I will use this bike for some steep hills and sometimes will probably need to do the S-manoeuvre, so having toe overlap (I guess depends on how serious it is) can be a safety hazard?

Stormsedge

I rented a 2017 Roubaix Expert 56 for a weekend during my bike search. I'm new to road bikes and at that point, it was a lot nicer than I thought I really needed...now on a comparable Domane (more due to LBS support/proximity than specific likes or dislikes) so I have plainly decided road biking (and me) are worth it. At the time, the Roubaix reacted so quickly to steering input that I was put off. I suspect that was my own inexperience and the shorter wheelbase compared to old frankenbike. I did like the bb tire kit, but I can see where that would be a matter of taste. They're super riding bikes for those of us with permanent back, neck, shoulder, etc limitations. My 2 cents.

wheelhot

Very nice to be able to rent and try it out, so did you ride clipless? and if yes, toe overlap? and shoe size, haha.

Stormsedge

No, I used straps and cages for that session...seemed prudent (someone else's' bike) given my inexperience with clipless at that point. I do not remember any toe overlap, but didn't know to look for it at that point. Shoe 46.

wheelhot

Straps and cages seems to be more forward then clipless so it's reassuring to hear that you didn't notice it which means it's likely to be very minor or nonexistent. I guess you used the stock tyres, Specialized Turbo tyres?

Stormsedge

Yes. As far as I know/remember, the bike was factory correct.

Masque

This REALLY BAD SIGN. Specialized puts stickers ON THE BIKE instructing people how to tighten this correctly, and the bike comes with colorful and very specific instructions, AND the dealers received very loud and hard-to-miss instructions beyond that, AND other familiarization. They do this because screwing this part of the bike up is dangerous.

You have a mechanic that doesn't read manuals, doesn't look at brightly-colored stickers, doesn't pay attention to what Specialized sends him, and clearly doesn't take an interest in new technology.

I would never let that mechanic touch my bike again. Wheels, maybe. But perhaps not if they are that new-fangled carbon fiber stuff!

Wait, what? I'm inferring here that your fitter moved you forward on the seat in order to get your reach properly sorted. If that is what you are saying, then two things come to mind:

1. Yes, you should probably be on a 56.
2. Your fitter should be fired.

Put the saddle where it belongs, leave it there, and then figure out where the rest of the bike should be.

Seat position fore/aft is a function of your particular posture and anatomy from the waist down. Varying the stem length is the correct way to adjust reach on a frame. Fore/aft seat position is never the correct adjustment for a reach issue, because it alters the way you put power down. The whole "knee over pedal spindle" guideline is a starting point, not a hard and fast rule, and perhaps you do prefer a more forward position, but this measurement should be identical regardless of frame size.

Regardless of if he put you on a 61 with a 60mm stem or a 52 with a 150mm stem, your seat fore/aft should be identical in relation to the bottom bracket.

As for your fit, everyone is different. I'm 185cm tall and my Roubaix is a 56 with a 110mm stem. I do fit on the 58 with a 90mm stem, except that the head tube is a billion miles tall. On the 56 I ride with no spacers and the shorter headset cover, and I may lose the hover bar next. The head tube on the 54 is a much better height for me, but then the wheelbase and head tube start to get awfully short. Reach and stack are complicated, but saddle position isn't.

Sounds like they really don't want to swap out your frame, and it sounds like you're not dealing with a shop that has seen many of these bikes.

Praxis is not a Specialized house brand! And their cranks tend to be stiffer than the Ultegra 6800 crank! Keep that crank!

wheelhot

Hmm, perhaps you can consider a negative rise stem? Apparently that what pros does with their '17 Roubaix during Paris Roubaix.

I'm not sure why bike sellers tend to not want to adjust the bike headtube spacers as I checked the head tube length measurement and the new Roubaix basically has 20mm shorter head tubes (probably cause of FS), so ignoring the FS, the bike measurement should be similar to past year Roubaix, probably has to adjust those spacers so once FS compressed by 5mm (apparently when the rider sits on the bike and hold the handlebar, FS will compress about 5mm), it'll have the same reach as previous bike?

I'm glad my dealer accepted me to swap my bike for a 56 instead of a 54 after 3 days using it but I'm annoyed that they now run out of stock for 56 and need to source around other Spesh dealers or I'll have to wait for 2018 model :annoyed:

dynawolf

Masque, that's the part I am having so much trouble with. My fitter insists my knee needs to be in front of the pedal. That is why he pushed the saddle so far forward. The shorter stem is due to a weakened back from a crash. Both combine to shorten the effective top tube.

This has been very frustrating. I saved for a long time to buy this bike. Everyone told me the 58 was my size. Now I am so confused as to where to put the saddle fore/aft.

wheelhot

Hmm, wouldn't a weaken back means a higher stack would be better so you'll bend less?

Hench94

I’m 6’1” with a 34” inseam. My2011 Roubaix Expert is a 56 (with a 110mm stem). My 2017 Roubaix Pro is a 58(with a 100mm stem flipped down – switched from the stock 110mm stem).


I switched out the tall (15mm) headset coverfor the short (0mm) headset cover, removed 3 of 4 spacers (5mm each) andswitched out the hover bars (15mm). That got me 45mm of drop with one spacer(5mm) left to play with.


My riding position on the 58 is now almostidentical to the old 56 (with three 5mm spacers) without an absurd amount of seatpost showing. It’s worth noting the distance from the center of the front axleto the top of the bars is now exactly the same on both bikes, despite the longerhead tube length (185mm) on the 58. My LBS talked me into the 58 and it was agreat decision.


Except for the most aggressive riders (whoshould probably be considering the new Tarmac), the new Roubaix offers plentyof flexibility for fit.


I concur with Masque re fitting. Seat height/position is primary to all other adjustments.


BTW, during a group ride early this seasonanother rider crashed and drove his front wheel into my rear Roval CX 32 wheelat a 90 degree angle. Ripped out two spokes and split the carbon rim nearly in half.LBS air shipped wheel to Spesh under the Roval crash replacement program. Speshrebuilt wheel with new rim and air shipped back to LBS within 10 days for $300.The rebuilt wheel remains covered by warranty as if brand new. Impressive customerservice.

Masque

There's nothing inherently wrong with having your seat that far forward, if it's comfortable for you (and, in this case, if you're the kind of rider that strongly favors quads over glutes for propulsion.)

Is there another fitter near you? They'd probably be willing to take a once-over look at your position for free (or $20) and give you their opinion. I have had good luck with this approach for sanity-checking fit changes.

I'm sorry you're frustrated. I hope we are helping more than causing consternation.

Remember that what matters is that you are comfortable on rides of the length you like to do. No pain, no numbness. If you're at that point with your bike, then your fit is probably great.

It will work out.

Masque

That's funny. My 2011 Roubaix is a 58 with a 90mm stem, and my 2017 is a 56 with a 110 (also flipped down, and likely to go to -17° soon.)

I've changed my fit.

Hench94

That is really funny. And it demonstrates how versatile these bike are from a fit perspective. Absolutely no reason to settle for a poor fit.


I had a bad knee issue that was successfully resolved by a significant increase in saddle height to get more knee extension. I had two professional fittings (one with the Retul system), both with the same results: really high saddle. My seat post is much less conspicuous on the 58.

wheelhot

@Masque, I think this might be of interest for you

https://bp4.bike/product/bp4-handlebar-alloy/

wheelhot

Hmm, I guess the only other con of having a short exposed seatpost would be the CG-R will be less effective as there's less room to flex?

3LionsCT

It looks like the 2018 Elites are in stock. The
LBS told me he could have one for me by next weekend. I guess I might have to put down a deposit just to get a look at the mint green color in person!

tedder987

<TLDR>
I had the same problem and SPZ replaced my rear wheel under warranty. GREAT customer service from SPZ and my LBS
</TLDR>

I had this exact problem which started at ~1200 miles and had become irritating by 1500. My LBS called SPZ after the usual fix attempts failed (tension, greasing the spokes etc) and after moderately long conversation (I couldn't overhear but they were on the phone a while) SPZ offered to cover the cost of a new 470 for me under warranty OR put the same money towards any other wheel I wanted to replace it with. So in my case (207 lbs and apparently not too gentle on wheels) I had the LBS build up a 32 spoke DT Suiss 350 hub with DT Suiss RR511 rims and so far (300 miles, ~2400 on the bike total) its been good and quiet after the initial break in. The nice thing about this build up (which was a bit more than SPZ said they would cover) is that the RR511 is a stronger rim, rated for 20kg heavier with the 24 spoke count when comparing their "spline 32" prebuilt wheels to their R460 (which is the same rim as the R470 and is also available as a prebuilt wheel).

So between the stronger rim and 33% more spokes on the rear (32 vs 24) this thing should be VERY solid and yet it weighs almost the same (lighter hub & spokes) and cosmetically matches the front unless you look closely and notice the R### sticker or count the spokes since its only 7mm deeper with the exact same finish as the R470.

A big shout out to Specialized and Moment Bicycles of San Diego for great customer service. They both earned a lot of loyalty for me over this.

3LionsCT

Hi Guys

I am 182cm (5'11 1/2") with a 82.5cm (32 1/2") inseam which seems to be right between a 56cm and 58cm frame size. I have found a 2017 bike with a nice discount in a 56cm and was talking to the guys at the shop and when they measured me they said I might be better off on a 58cm as I wanted a more upright position. The trouble is that they do not have a 58cm 2017 frame. I would have to wait for the 2018 and pay list. Any advice given my size and wish for the most comfortable riding position? Is it possible to raise the handle bars on a future shock bike?

Thanks

wheelhot

58 would be better if you wanted a more upright position, though I do think you can get away on the 56 without removing any spacers and possibly swapping the riser bars to a high rise one (not sure how accurate this is, but I read that Spesh dealers can actually swap your Roubaix handlebars from no-rise, med-rise (standard)m and high-rise.

When you mean to raise the handlebars, your only options are to use all the 3 spacers + high cup (the funky looking plastic thing), swap the stem to a positive deg angle and probably go for a high-rise handlebars. Though I don't think if you opted for a high deg stem, you'll need to go for that high-rise handlebar.

Chandne

I can tell you about my fit. I used to have a 56 and it looked a bit odd with a crazy high-rise stem. Plus there was that toe overlap issue. I preferred 58s with short stems due to lower back and hip flexibility issues. It is easy to be more upright on a 58 and I find that a 90/100 stem is fine, though the front wander a slight bit more on climbs 10% of greater in grade. I would actually now be fine on a 56 since I have improved my flexibility and can lower my stem but on long rides, I'd rather have a more heads-up position to ease up on the neck. If the toe overlap was not an issue with my size 12 feet, I'd go for a 56 and use a higher-rise stem. I think it is maybe 15mm in head tube diff. So look at stems and bars (Specialized makes carbon flat dropbars that have rise) that can compensate for the head tube diff and decide based on that.