KiwiDallas

Well, my thanks go to everyone who replied with useful comments.

I'll take out the garbage now.

=K

LarrySellerz

Hey I was proud of that fix. Gebhard said he had never seen it before when taking it in for a spoke replacement and wheel trued.

genejockey 

If you'd asked me, that time we met on Canada Rd, I'd have lent you my multitool with the 5mm allen key and you could have fixed it right there and then.

LarrySellerz

the twine did fix it.

Chuck M 

That was not because he found it innovative. It was because people just don't do that.

tomato coupe

I think he was being diplomatic.

genejockey 

That's like saying you fixed a flat tire by just taking the tire off and riding on the rim.

LarrySellerz

I said “what did you think of how I fixed my brake?” When I noticed that they had fixed it, and he said something like “well, I cannot say it wasn’t inventive” or something along those lines.

Chuck M 

I was wrong. He was being diplomatic.

choddo

Sorry if I’m being thick but wouldn’t your “fix” stop the brake pad on that side from reaching the rim?

Kai Winters

Ummm wouldn't 'stop stop juice' be the correct term???

LarrySellerz

No, but it took me a long time and many attempts to get it adjusted perfectly and once I had it how I liked it I was not keen on revisiting it, even after genejocky pointed out the bolt I needed to loosen. "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

base2 

SRAM DOT brake system?
Every single brake system I have seen that has the behavior that you describe has been a SRAM DOT system.

The fluid, although supposedly higher performing (resistant to boiling) when new, is very hydroscopic. It literally sucks moisture through the seals and quickly, quickly degrades becoming a greater volume of fluid...and poorer performing that mineral oil. Since the system is a fixed volume the pistons push out.

The "fix" is regular fluid replacement and bleeds.

You could also simply get a mineral oil based system like every other manufacturer that is not SRAM.

tomato coupe

The correct phrase in this case is "If it's still broke, why fix it?"

genejockey 

But, you know, a brake that doesn't brake IS broke.

choddo

he seems to be saying it could still brake

I don’t see how with presumably fixed length twine under tension holding part of the brake to the frame but I’m clearly missing something here.

genejockey 

I saw it in person. It could not. The whole brake was twisted off center so that one caliper arm couldn't reach the rim, and the other - which had been rubbing on the rim - was tied to the seatstay with twine, so it couldn't reach the rim either.

What he's saying is that he didn't MIND that it didn't brake.

LarrySellerz

The caliper arms both still actuated, even though im grabbing it by one of the arms and fighting the adjustment bolt, it would still actuate and brake fine. Rim brakes are a robust braking system, if i tried something similar with disc brakes I wouldn't have a chance

choddo

Good grief. And he said he lives on a steep hill too. I guess it would be ok half the time.

choddo

Do you have a photo of this miracle of materials science? I want to know how something that's tied with twine with enough force to hold it out of its resting position can then move against that pull.

I quite like rim brakes for their aesthetics and nuanced feel, in the summer. I have them on my main road bike. But there's no question that discs are far superior at stopping - especially in the wet. And they're still pretty straightforward to maintain.

PeteHski

I have both SRAM and Shimano brakes and neither need bleeding on a regular basis and certainly not after just 6 months sitting in the garage. Humidity is pretty high here too.

Noisy pads were probably down to contamination just before going into storage. Maybe rust forming on the discs. Clean, dry discs and pads can sit happily for 6 months without issues. Calliper pistons can sieze up though if left unused for a long time.

base2 

I'm sure they probably don't. Just reallying my experience with a small handful of bikes that were unused and exposed to the elements. A couple, like 4vor 5, and the fluid always came out in really poor condition. I have yet to experience any piston push out due to fluid degradation with any mineral oil system. The common denominator has been DOT. So, I thought it worth mention.

Maybe the difference is that you use your regularly? I don't know the physics on that. Maybe any moisture in the piston/caliper area isn't left to stagnate? I'm sure someone on the Internet has a better theory

Chuck M 

I've never had any experience with SRAM, but I feel from what I read here frequently that I must have the most trouble free Shimano hydraulic brakes on the planet. Hydraulic brakes are not that difficult to use and service.

PeteHski

Our bikes see no use over winter, but I do squeeze the brake levers a few times in the garage whenever I remember. Just to prevent piston seize, but maybe it helps with the fluid too. I've never had to give it any more thought. Of our half dozen or so bikes, 2 of them use mineral brake fluid, the rest use DOT.

I rarely have to bleed brakes of any type. For example my 2019 MTB SRAM brakes have never needed bleeding and have spent 4 whole winters sat unused in the garage. The brakes still feel good and the pad clearance is normal. You could argue that the fluid needs changing to restore maximum braking performance in extreme use (higher fluid boiling point), but I don't overthink it. If I get a spongy lever then I bleed them and this doesn't happen very often IME. At least not with the current crop of brakes. I remember having to do more regular brake bleeds on older brakes from the early 2000s, regardless of fluid type.

genejockey 

Especially if you have a lot of extra business cards.