pdlamb

One flat in three years? Do you know how lucky you are!?

Panaracer is usually a good brand. When something causes a flat, no brand of tube is immune.

The Bell tube I bought at Walmart was undersized, but still held air. Tough to patch because it was so small!

Last time I bought tubes, I bought Continental; they've worked well for me. Given some of the horror stories lately, you might want to buy two or three from one LBS, and go to a store that carries a different brand (or order a different brand) to buy a couple more.

soyabean

The brand of tube isn't really that important. The LBS will use ones they feel is good.

What is important is that there is a solid plastic or velox rim strip to cover the spoke nipples, not a thin piece of rubber.

Another thing that is important is the tube is installed without damage to the tube or wheel.

Again, your LBS will do all and you won't have to worry about it again.

If you want to practice your DIY skills, do all that with a curb find instead, while you keep your one good bike in ride-ready condition.

soyabean

Most folks don't pay attention to rim strips because they are not sold in big box stores.

Rim strips are not one size fits all. The width must match the construction of your rim, not the tire.

I've posted about one here:
Opinion needed

cyccommute 

You are on the wrong track. I agree that the brand of the tube is probably unimportant. I suspect that most tubes are made in similar factories and just branded with different labels. However, the rim strip idea holds no water. I don’t have a bicycle in my garage that has rubber rim strips and haven’t for roughly 30 years. All of my bikes either have Velox or Tesa tape as rim strips. I use Tesa with tubes because modern tires are so tight, they need the thinner tape for install. I know how to install a tire…even very tight tires…without pinching the tube. I have looked, felt, removed and replaced many rim strips trying to find a solution and it just keeps happening, many times on multiple bikes for me. I’m almost at a point where rips on the rim side of the tube are more common than ones on the tires side and that is saying a lot given that I live where goatheads are everywhere.

It’s not the bike that is the problem in the vast majority of these cases. It’s a problem with the tubes throughout the industry. It could be the formulation of the rubber. It could be the blending of the rubber. It could be the loss of market share to tubeless. But it is largely a problem with the tubes…not with the consumer.

ThermionicScott 

This thread is in the "Bike Mechanics" subforum (i.e. people who want to learn how to fix their bikes), not the "Learned Helplessness" subforum.

Basstar

You’re correct the the LBS can do it, however I’m in my 60’s and replaced a zillion tubes in my youth and a few recently trying different tires on this bike since I began riding around 3 years ago.

My inner debate was whether or not it’s worth patching tubes vs buying new ones.

Based on the excellent insight shared here it appears a combination of patching when convenient is a good choice but having a good spare while riding is the better all around solution.

icemilkcoffee 

TPU tubes are more expensive, but they are much easier and foolproof to patch. It's a tape on patch that doesn't require dabbing glue etc.
The only downside is that each patch is more expensive. There are now cheaper chinese TPU patches available but I haven't had a chance to try them.

Moe Zhoost

Opened Rema glue tubes can last for years. The trick is to squeeze the air out of the tube so that there's a slight convex meniscus of glue peeking out the opening. Then screw the cap on tight.

soyabean

... and put it in the smallest glass jar with an air tight lid. Smaller is less air.

You can do the same storage practice for any other solvent glue, Shoo Goo, ABS/PVC plumbing glue.

maddog34

i use the corner of the patch kit's plastic box to remove any trapped air and promote better blending of the patch and tube. i start in the center and use a circular motion...

cyccommute 

Screw the cap on tight. That’s all that is needed. And that is only needed to make sure that the solvent doesn’t evaporate. The whole patching process does not depend on oxygen to make the reaction happen so air isn’t a concern.

Basstar

As an update I ordered Bell inner tubes to replace my others and so far, knock on wood, I haven’t had an issue.

Coincidence perhaps but I’ll take it for a win.

Thanks again everyone for your input.

SJX426 

I didn'read every entry to this thread but the advise in the first half is spot on.
What may not have been mentioned is that the innertube has release agent on it. The mold is coated with release agent to insure the tube doesn't stick to the mold when it is created. That is why you need to clean the patch area. Sanding is likely the best insurance that the release agent is removed= prior to applying the glue.

I used the Park patches with an alcohol wipe for a couple of years but they failed too often/ Rema is the got to solution. I have used deep sockets for rolling and a wallpaper seam roller. part of the reason is to remove any air bubbles. That can be minimized by the way the patch is applied to the tube, one edge first then "roll" the rest of the patch on.

Tommygunxs

i use to patch, it cost med less than a dollar, and a new tube cost me 15 dollars, so it it a lunch saved for 30 minuters of work. at the same time I use to take a look at the bike that everythings works as it should

Bill Kapaun

+1
Had my 1st flat in about 4-5 years and my opened REMA tube of glue was still fresh. Probably about 2/3 gone.
Waste a drop. It pays.

I use a similar concept for my gasoline power equipment.
Fill the tank to the brim after use and reduce dead air space to an absolute minimum.
Bought my Honda mower in 1990 and never a carb problem.

Crankycrank

+1 And if you have one of the cans with the brush, store the can upside down as the fluid will seal any tiny leaks in the cap during non-use.