View Poll Results: Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 or SRAM RED eTAP?
Shimano Dura-Ace Di2
46
67.65%
SRAM RED eTAP
22
32.35%
Voters: 68. You may not vote on this poll
Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 or SRAM RED eTAP?
#26
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Considering she's been a Cat 2 racer for the better part of the decade...she rides a lot faster than that. Your quote says, "About". That's a big "about". Like I said - quite literally - YMMV.
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#27
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My eTap was a "mini group" that I got February of 2016, it was the one pre-release set that some shops got. The Sram rep told me to remove the battery when transporting the bike, so it wasn't a secret. Maybe her LBS should of told her.
#28
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The idea that one could run the battery empty vs. recharging before that occurs is an advantage is odd to me. Especially when there is tech that will notify you when it the battery is getting low. It is like carting an extra gallon of gas in the trunk of your car so can drive to E instead of stopping at a gas station when the near empty light comes on.
ETap battery information is not all that helpful. It’s basically “high, med, low.”
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If you have a newer Garmin or Wahoo, the unit will tell you when the battery is low. There is nothing to check. Even before I had that function, I just plugged the bike in at the beginning of every month. I still can’t see the value of carrying an extra battery.
#30
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I'm about 4 years from last time I got the information, but...
Sometimes pro teams will accept being paid to use SRAM.
And sometimes pro teams will pay to use Shimano.
I know of both cases. I do not know of pro teams that pay to use SRAM. I know several that buy Shimano (or did).
But as I said, I'm 4 years away from that, so they might now.
Sometimes pro teams will accept being paid to use SRAM.
And sometimes pro teams will pay to use Shimano.
I know of both cases. I do not know of pro teams that pay to use SRAM. I know several that buy Shimano (or did).
But as I said, I'm 4 years away from that, so they might now.
#31
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I really didn't like Force etap, is Red any better? It was a test ride first time electronic and yea sure pressing the levers felt a lot nicer than mechanical, but the fact that it took forever to then actually carry out the shift made me think mechanical is better (exaggerated but it's the same on the PC, if you go from a fast one and everything opens instantly to a slow on and there is just a noticeable delay, to me that is super annoying).
That being said. If I were planning a new bike build, it would not be with Sram. Sram is doing some questionable things currently. I built an 11 speed Red e tap bike last year. I did it by upgrading my Red 10 speed bike with new derailluers, shifters, cassette and chain. This year Sram discontinued support for that groupset. Thats a crap move designed to force you to buy the new groupset.
I also built a new 12 speed e tap Force bike. That cost me a small fortune due to the proprietary shenanigans that Sram encorporated into the new design. Forcing me to replace components I hadn't counted on , like the total scam that Dub is. I built this bike with Force because the price of the Red groupset was more than I paid for the entire fore mentioned 11 speed bike, ( 2011 S works tarmac Alberto Contadore tribute frame purchased nib in '17, sram Red 11 speed, with carbon wheels. )
I have been a Sram fan since the intro of the exogram Red 10 speed groupset. I don't know what changed in the co. To turn them into bait and switch used car salesman. But I'm cured.
I am looking forward to Shimanos new groupset release And I hope they mop the sales room floor with Sram.
#32
Senior Member
Bike computer readouts of battery level may be highly inaccurate - not something I'd trust. With SRAM AXS, I carry a spare battery, just to be safe. The batteries are small and only weigh 25 grams. I've never had one die on the road, but I have caught every red light warning with my bike in the work stand. I install my spare battery and then charge the dead battery which then becomes the spare. I have two bikes with AXS. I've had no problems since I made the switch in early August. I don't use sram cranks, due to their limited range. I've used Campy chorus 12 48/32 and shimano grx 46/30 11speed cranks, with the AXS chain.
#33
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I'm about 4 years from last time I got the information, but...
Sometimes pro teams will accept being paid to use SRAM.
And sometimes pro teams will pay to use Shimano.
I know of both cases. I do not know of pro teams that pay to use SRAM. I know several that buy Shimano (or did).
But as I said, I'm 4 years away from that, so they might now.
Sometimes pro teams will accept being paid to use SRAM.
And sometimes pro teams will pay to use Shimano.
I know of both cases. I do not know of pro teams that pay to use SRAM. I know several that buy Shimano (or did).
But as I said, I'm 4 years away from that, so they might now.
I don't know if this is still true, but it was when SRAM first released their road groups. SRAM Took over the peleton, but they quickly faded away once they stopped paying teams to use their crap.
The old Cervelo Test Team definitely paid for their Shimano components, because the riders refused to use SRAM.
#34
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I "think" Peter Sagan won more than half his races on a Cannondale... which had Sram. So it just proves the bike and groupset don't matter as much ans the rider.
So it just comes down to personal preference.
BTW... I drive a Subaru, and Honda sux.
So it just comes down to personal preference.
BTW... I drive a Subaru, and Honda sux.
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#36
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Bike computer readouts of battery level may be highly inaccurate - not something I'd trust. With SRAM AXS, I carry a spare battery, just to be safe. The batteries are small and only weigh 25 grams. I've never had one die on the road, but I have caught every red light warning with my bike in the work stand. I install my spare battery and then charge the dead battery which then becomes the spare. I have two bikes with AXS. I've had no problems since I made the switch in early August. I don't use sram cranks, due to their limited range. I've used Campy chorus 12 48/32 and shimano grx 46/30 11speed cranks, with the AXS chain.
From what I was told the 12 speed chain will not work with the 11 speed crankset. Well, actually I was told, "the 12 speed cassette tooth space is for the larger rollers in the new chain, which I need the chain rings for, which won't fit on the pre existing crank set, that I will have to use the Dub b.b. with. Cost me about an extra $600.00.
#37
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(we don't use enough emoticons around here anymore)
Yes there are a lot of teams that ...shall we say would "prefer" to run Shimano. Some of that is justified but a lot of it is just old habits. The front shifting has gotten better with SRAM but in many of the wrench's minds they still bring up Schleck. The fact that SRAM has been trying to kill the front derailleur isn't helping their case with these guys either.
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#38
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#39
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Dave can you clarify for me. The 2 axs bikes are 11 speed or 12 speed?
From what I was told the 12 speed chain will not work with the 11 speed crankset. Well, actually I was told, "the 12 speed cassette tooth space is for the larger rollers in the new chain, which I need the chain rings for, which won't fit on the pre existing crank set, that I will have to use the Dub b.b. with. Cost me about an extra $600.00.
From what I was told the 12 speed chain will not work with the 11 speed crankset. Well, actually I was told, "the 12 speed cassette tooth space is for the larger rollers in the new chain, which I need the chain rings for, which won't fit on the pre existing crank set, that I will have to use the Dub b.b. with. Cost me about an extra $600.00.
About the only other useable crank for a 10-XX cassette is a 50/34 and that gives you a huge top gear like a 55/11. Even a 48/10 is like a 53/11. Most people will find a 46 big ring to be large enough.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 01-29-21 at 12:53 PM.
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#40
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#42
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#44
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Battery voltage measurements on Li-ion or Li-po batteries are notoriously inaccurate. The discharge curve on a Li based battery falls off a cliff in a very narrow range of voltage and embedded devices like this are generally the worst at finding that knee in the curve well. This is especially true where the battery is not embedded and/or does not have a fairly expensive fuel gauge chip that integrates the current both in and out of the battery during charge and discharge to get a more accurate understanding of the actual battery capacity relying on the terminal voltage. But that’s beyond the scope of a derailleur as a system usually.
So I’ve worked out how low I can go and still have some margin. To be frank, the ability of both Shimano and SRAM to accurately measure the battery voltage is somewhere between “crappy” and “bad.”
I’m always amazed when a number is presented on a display, people accept that as gospel truth when it is rarely the case.
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I have two rings on our adventure bikes. I had 3 rings on my mountain bike.
On bikes I bought I use 1X ...
For the tandem
For the 1992 <14# Ti road bike
For the fast race winning bike. <13# with those wheels, <12# with the low profiles.
For the gravel / cx bike.
For my older 1980 753 Team Raleigh (stupidly repainted in early 90s). One downtube shifter.
For the TT bike.
On bikes I bought I use 1X ...
For the tandem
For the 1992 <14# Ti road bike
For the fast race winning bike. <13# with those wheels, <12# with the low profiles.
For the gravel / cx bike.
For my older 1980 753 Team Raleigh (stupidly repainted in early 90s). One downtube shifter.
For the TT bike.
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#48
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yes I know. “Low” is lower than I want to go.
Battery voltage measurements on Li-ion or Li-po batteries are notoriously inaccurate. The discharge curve on a Li based battery falls off a cliff in a very narrow range of voltage and embedded devices like this are generally the worst at finding that knee in the curve well. This is especially true where the battery is not embedded and/or does not have a fairly expensive fuel gauge chip that integrates the current both in and out of the battery during charge and discharge to get a more accurate understanding of the actual battery capacity relying on the terminal voltage. But that’s beyond the scope of a derailleur as a system usually.
So I’ve worked out how low I can go and still have some margin. To be frank, the ability of both Shimano and SRAM to accurately measure the battery voltage is somewhere between “crappy” and “bad.”
I’m always amazed when a number is presented on a display, people accept that as gospel truth when it is rarely the case.
Battery voltage measurements on Li-ion or Li-po batteries are notoriously inaccurate. The discharge curve on a Li based battery falls off a cliff in a very narrow range of voltage and embedded devices like this are generally the worst at finding that knee in the curve well. This is especially true where the battery is not embedded and/or does not have a fairly expensive fuel gauge chip that integrates the current both in and out of the battery during charge and discharge to get a more accurate understanding of the actual battery capacity relying on the terminal voltage. But that’s beyond the scope of a derailleur as a system usually.
So I’ve worked out how low I can go and still have some margin. To be frank, the ability of both Shimano and SRAM to accurately measure the battery voltage is somewhere between “crappy” and “bad.”
I’m always amazed when a number is presented on a display, people accept that as gospel truth when it is rarely the case.
#49
Senior Member
The unit doesn’t give a number, both Garmin and Wahoo just say low battery. I have never not been able to finish a ride when the low battery light comes on. It does seem strange to me that the low battery warning is too low but you are ok with riding a battery dead and then popping in a spare. You do you. You really don’t have to justify your behavior to me.
Next time if you don’t want to know then don’t ask or comment.
#50
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You mad Bro? Never used a question mark, just said your reasoning sounded odd. I mentioned I didn’t care to give an out.
Last edited by colnago62; 01-31-21 at 12:38 AM.