Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Proof that a QR compresses the axle?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Proof that a QR compresses the axle?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-30-17, 07:51 PM
  #151  
Senior Member
 
sweeks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,566

Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"

Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 984 Post(s)
Liked 589 Times in 404 Posts
Originally Posted by maddog34
please explain just how only one cone/jam is "loaded" during clearance adjustment.
Here are some images to help you understand. I didn't have a cup-and-cone hub handy, so I've used a dynohub that's not built into a wheel. This is a cartridge bearing hub, so you'll have to imagine the locknuts and threaded axle.

The first image shows an overview of the hub held in a homemade wheel bearing adjustment fixture. The Q-R is tight.

The second image shows the Q-R nut in contact with the axle stub, *not* the locknut. Consequently, were this a cup/cone assembly, it would be *unloaded*. According the the "thread-yield" hypothesis, putting this hub into a frame and tightening the Q-R would result in the bearing getting tighter. True, it would only be half the decrease in clearance expected with *both* cup/cone assemblies, but this would probably still be detectable.

The third image shows the cam end of the Q-R; the hub's locknut is against the fixture and, therefore, under compression.

The last image shows the fixture. It's just a piece of angle-iron with an extra bit silver-soldered on to make it about as thick as a dropout.

I've adjusted many wheel bearings with this fixture, and the bearings do get loose when I take the Q-R off, but then go back to proper adjustment when installed in the bike. The beauty of this fixture is that I can adjust the bearings without releasing the Q-R, making the adjustment go more quickly with no surprises when the wheel goes back on the bike.

Hope this helps!
Steve
sweeks is offline  
Old 05-30-17, 08:18 PM
  #152  
Senior Member
 
wphamilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280

Bikes: Nashbar Road

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 228 Posts
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
I don't believe that the force to compress a 4130 axle doesn't adversely impact an aluminum dropout. My aluminum road bikes do show indentations from the skewer, but after decades of use I would expect the pressure would compress the aluminum more, perhaps deforming it.

Not sure why so many people don't think an axle can flex. I wonder how many of them would use an 8 or 9 speed "freewheel".

I do understand the different directions if force and why and axle bends. I and just not convinced that the axial force to flex is less than it is to compress.

John
Non-parallel forces, or variations in the material, will lead to un-equal compression which seems to me to be identical to a small flex. So some amount is inevitable. Where does the torque needed to bend the axle more than that slight amount come from though? It's still all a form of compression.
wphamilton is offline  
Old 05-30-17, 09:17 PM
  #153  
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,835

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,195 Times in 1,336 Posts
Back on post #118 I merely said that Park states that hollow axles flex. Per Park...

"Quick release hubs have hollow axles that flex slightly when the quick release is closed."

It just seemed to me at the time that if the people that manufacture tools, and provide step by step instructions that are used by thousands of mechanics, who am I to disagree. I mean it's not like anyone else on this forum has that level of expertise or influence.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 05-30-17, 09:24 PM
  #154  
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,427
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,725 Times in 2,541 Posts
I thought someone did the book compression calc and found out it was about what is needed? I feel like that when you have the cone and locknut properly adjusted, they really aren't going to move. The way a threaded joint works, there is material under significant compression, and once that is defeated, the joint comes loose. But I don't see that happening in a properly adjusted cone/locknut.
unterhausen is offline  
Old 05-30-17, 11:43 PM
  #155  
Senior Member
 
Doug64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,495
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1185 Post(s)
Liked 842 Times in 438 Posts
Originally Posted by sweeks
One end of the axle goes into one of the frame dropouts (the wheel is mounted *outside* the frame... see the Park Tools page referenced). The skewer is inserted into the axle from the *inside* of the dropout. The skewer nut is installed on the other end and, since there is NO DROPOUT there, the nut contacts the end of the axle. Closing the skewer cam compresses the axle from its (cantilevered) end to the cone/locknut contacting the dropout. There is no load on the cone/locknut at the cantilevered end. This eliminates that assembly as a source of (hypothetical) movement. More importantly, it allows the cone/locknut to be adjusted without having to open and close the Q-R lever each time, since the axle remains constantly under compression.

I probably need to post an image.
Steve
That is exactly the method I use to adjust the cones. I think I learned the technique from Parks's Blue Book.
Doug64 is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 02:03 AM
  #156  
Senior Member
 
maddog34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,984

Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1300 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times in 537 Posts
FLEX... 1)to bend slightly
...........2) to CONTRACT.

just sayin'.....

also... there are people here that have made many tools...both production, and custom.

as to WHERE park gets the designs and specifications for most of their tools... look to the manufacturers of the parts, and the suppliers of their tools.... with a dose of input from greasy underpaid mechanics scattered around the world, looking to make the Park tools work better, and bold enough to question Park's judgment, then weld/cut/grind the shiny new Park tool to fit/function in an improved fashion..... And Park has designed a few from scratch, too, i'd imagine...
maddog34 is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 04:53 AM
  #157  
Senior Member
 
sweeks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,566

Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"

Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 984 Post(s)
Liked 589 Times in 404 Posts
Originally Posted by Doug64
That is exactly the method I use to adjust the cones. I think I learned the technique from Parks's Blue Book.
Yes! And it's also the same as the method described on Park's DIY site, except that they show the wheel attached to the *outside* of a rear dropout. I don't remember where I got the idea to make a fixture, but it wasn't my idea!
Steve
sweeks is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 06:36 AM
  #158  
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 113
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 947 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So far no conclusive proof axles compress with QR pressure, at least not enough worth mentioning. All I see is one experiment that appears its only purpose is to come to a predetermined conclusion. Missing critical data points are made up for with sarcasm and that has to be taken as a form of deception.
Schwinn me is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 07:27 AM
  #159  
Senior Member
 
wphamilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280

Bikes: Nashbar Road

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 228 Posts
If someone wants to see how much the nut moves relative to the axle, just look at the edge of the nut and the next thread before and after tightening with the QR. Use a macro lens or a smartphone and magnifier, and you should easily be able to see a change of a fractional mm.
wphamilton is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 08:50 AM
  #160  
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,835

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,195 Times in 1,336 Posts
Originally Posted by maddog34
FLEX... 1)to bend slightly
...........2) to CONTRACT.

just sayin'.....
Tell me you just didn't google flex and got a definition of contracting a muscle to flex a joint and are applying it here.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 09:23 AM
  #161  
Senior Member
 
wphamilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280

Bikes: Nashbar Road

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 228 Posts
Or, if you don't like taking a picture of the nut, construct a caliper from a 1-meter stick by attaching a pivot arm 1 cm from one end, 10 cm in length (assuming we're measuring differences from a 100 mm length). The end of the meter stick will sweep 90x the distance the short end (90.68 times in the case of a 0.1mm change, if my trig is right). Someone should be able to measure 9mm, if he's careful about keeping the rig positioned.

Or, strap a laser pointer on a shorter stick and shine it on a distant wall. Strap one on the other end of the axle as a reference point. Point being we can measure small quantities using some imagination, without special equipment. What we give up is precision, but high precision is not all that important on this one, IMO.
wphamilton is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 10:28 AM
  #162  
Senior Member
 
McBTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,889

Bikes: 2015 22 Speed

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1543 Post(s)
Liked 51 Times in 39 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinn me
So far no conclusive proof axles compress with QR pressure, at least not enough worth mentioning. All I see is one experiment that appears its only purpose is to come to a predetermined conclusion. Missing critical data points are made up for with sarcasm and that has to be taken as a form of deception.
The common understanding and it's not hard to believe is that a spoke is stretched and compressed over and over but I think the question is... how much are we talking about? It wouldn't take much to make a spoke, for example, feel slack or taut.
McBTC is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 11:34 AM
  #163  
Mostly harmless ™
 
Bike Gremlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,430

Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1107 Post(s)
Liked 217 Times in 131 Posts
Originally Posted by McBTC
The common understanding and it's not hard to believe is that a spoke is stretched and compressed over and over but I think the question is... how much are we talking about? It wouldn't take much to make a spoke, for example, feel slack or taut.
To be (more) precise, a spoke is stretched (tensioned) and less stretched (lower tension). If it gets to compress (i.e. loose all the tension), a wheel can collapse.
Bike Gremlin is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 12:31 PM
  #164  
Senior Member
 
sweeks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,566

Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"

Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 984 Post(s)
Liked 589 Times in 404 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinn me
So far no conclusive proof axles compress with QR pressure, at least not enough worth mentioning. All I see is one experiment that appears its only purpose is to come to a predetermined conclusion. Missing critical data points are made up for with sarcasm and that has to be taken as a form of deception.
I assume you are referring to my "basement science". I'm waiting for *your* contribution.
There are at least three engineers on this thread who appear to support the axle compression hypothesis, to say nothing of Jobst Brandt. As for sarcasm, I've been on the receiving end rather more than the reverse.

Originally Posted by wphamilton
If someone wants to see how much the nut moves relative to the axle, just look at the edge of the nut and the next thread before and after tightening with the QR. Use a macro lens or a smartphone and magnifier, and you should easily be able to see a change of a fractional mm.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and predict that if any movement is observed, it will not be of the necessary magnitude to explain the observed bearing clearance change.
Steve
sweeks is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 12:42 PM
  #165  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: E Wa
Posts: 557
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 110 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I love this thread. 3 pages of discussion that hasn't broken down into too much of name-calling.

Anecdotally, I have never gotten the famed hub compression to make a difference in my bearing tunings. I tighten the locknut so there's a tiny bit of play then compress the QR into the axle and there's still a tiny bit of play. I adjust locknut so the wheel turns smoothly with no perceptible play (maybe 1/16 of a turn on the cone) and tighten QR, and the wheel will spin forever, with no noticeable binding.

Am I ruining hubs? Maybe. Am I bad at adjusting hubs to closer than 1/16 of a turn on the cone? Yes. Will I change my methods as a result of this thread? Probably not.
Falcon3 is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 01:11 PM
  #166  
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,835

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,195 Times in 1,336 Posts
In hindsight it is probably not possible to determine if there is a slight amount of material that is compressed, or a slight amount of flexing (bending), or a slight amount of give in the threaded area due to tolerances without a special fixture and very precise measuring equipment.

I highly doubt anyone including Park or Jobst Brandt or Sheldon Brown had done any experiment prior to adopting the use of compress or flex and the adoption of whatever word has no relation to the actual phenomenon that has spanned these pages.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 01:33 PM
  #167  
Senior Member
 
wphamilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280

Bikes: Nashbar Road

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 228 Posts
Originally Posted by sweeks
I'm going to go out on a limb here and predict that if any movement is observed, it will not be of the necessary magnitude to explain the observed bearing clearance change.
Steve
.1 mm is about 1/10th of a turn isn't it? (24 tpi nuts). It's hard to imagine the nut being forced 1/10th of a thread down without shearing something, but some fraction of that maybe.
wphamilton is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 04:11 PM
  #168  
Senior Member
 
sweeks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,566

Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"

Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 984 Post(s)
Liked 589 Times in 404 Posts
Originally Posted by wphamilton
.1 mm is about 1/10th of a turn isn't it? (24 tpi nuts). It's hard to imagine the nut being forced 1/10th of a thread down without shearing something, but some fraction of that maybe.
I hope nobody is shearing anything! I just meant that once the cone and locknut are jammed together there's not likely to be 0.10mm of movement. That's my *hypothesis*... it remains to be demonstrated.
Steve
sweeks is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 04:39 PM
  #169  
Senior Member
 
McBTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,889

Bikes: 2015 22 Speed

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1543 Post(s)
Liked 51 Times in 39 Posts
Originally Posted by Slaninar
To be (more) precise, a spoke is stretched (tensioned) and less stretched (lower tension). If it gets to compress (i.e. loose all the tension), a wheel can collapse.
True, a lower spoke is compressed when the axle is "standing" on it, although the lower spoke is still under tension and therefore, still taut.
McBTC is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 09:09 PM
  #170  
Senior Member
 
maddog34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,984

Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1300 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times in 537 Posts
Originally Posted by sweeks
Here are some images to help you understand. I didn't have a cup-and-cone hub handy, so I've used a dynohub that's not built into a wheel. This is a cartridge bearing hub, so you'll have to imagine the locknuts and threaded axle.

The first image shows an overview of the hub held in a homemade wheel bearing adjustment fixture. The Q-R is tight.

The second image shows the Q-R nut in contact with the axle stub, *not* the locknut. Consequently, were this a cup/cone assembly, it would be *unloaded*. According the the "thread-yield" hypothesis, putting this hub into a frame and tightening the Q-R would result in the bearing getting tighter. True, it would only be half the decrease in clearance expected with *both* cup/cone assemblies, but this would probably still be detectable.

The third image shows the cam end of the Q-R; the hub's locknut is against the fixture and, therefore, under compression.


The last image shows the fixture. It's just a piece of angle-iron with an extra bit silver-soldered on to make it about as thick as a dropout.

I've adjusted many wheel bearings with this fixture, and the bearings do get loose when I take the Q-R off, but then go back to proper adjustment when installed in the bike. The beauty of this fixture is that I can adjust the bearings without releasing the Q-R, making the adjustment go more quickly with no surprises when the wheel goes back on the bike.

Hope this helps!
Steve
glad you posted this... i leave a touch of play in my hubs... been doing so since i bought my DA hubs in 1983... 20,000 + miles on them now... smooth as butter.

Last edited by maddog34; 05-31-17 at 09:17 PM.
maddog34 is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 09:20 PM
  #171  
Senior Member
 
maddog34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,984

Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1300 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times in 537 Posts
NOW... what occurs to the bearing clearance WHEN THE WHEEL IS UNDER LOAD of a rider?

It loosens slightly due to hub bearing CUP, and bearing BALL distortion.
maddog34 is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 09:31 PM
  #172  
Senior Member
 
maddog34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,984

Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1300 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times in 537 Posts
Originally Posted by McBTC
True, a lower spoke is compressed when the axle is "standing" on it, although the lower spoke is still under tension and therefore, still taut.
excluding solid, ridged, fixed, non-adjustable, spoked wheels.... spoked wheels hang from the upper spokes, and the rim slightly ovals.... add torque by pedalling/opening a throttle, and the rim goes slightly egg shape.

lower(bottom) spokes' tension are relieved slightly by the increase in tension experienced by the upper spokes when just rolling along.

tension change experienced by spokes increases when less spokes are present... low spoke count wheels require more care.

Now... what would BRAKING FORCES do to spoke tension, and rim shape?

disc and rim brake induced rim distortion will be different, btw.

Last edited by maddog34; 05-31-17 at 09:36 PM.
maddog34 is offline  
Old 05-31-17, 10:41 PM
  #173  
Mostly harmless ™
 
Bike Gremlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,430

Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1107 Post(s)
Liked 217 Times in 131 Posts
Originally Posted by maddog34
excluding solid, ridged, fixed, non-adjustable, spoked wheels.... spoked wheels hang from the upper spokes, and the rim slightly ovals.... add torque by pedalling/opening a throttle, and the rim goes slightly egg shape.

lower(bottom) spokes' tension are relieved slightly by the increase in tension experienced by the upper spokes when just rolling along.
I can recommend reading Bicycle Wheel - by Jobst Brandt - it explains nicely the fact - tried and tested - that the wheel doesn't hang from the upper spokes, as I too had believed, and that the upper spokes don't gain tension when the wheel is loaded by rider's weight. This paper also tests and demonstrates that:

https://people.duke.edu/~hpgavin/pape...heel-Paper.pdf

Originally Posted by maddog34
tension change experienced by spokes increases when less spokes are present... low spoke count wheels require more care.

Now... what would BRAKING FORCES do to spoke tension, and rim shape?

disc and rim brake induced rim distortion will be different, btw.
For all I know, someone correct me if I'm wrong:
Disc brakes produce effect similar to the pedalling - just in reverse direction. So the leading spokes are tensioned, while the trailing ones are de-tensioned.

Rim brakes don't have that effect. They make the front half of the wheel's spokes a bit looser, while slightly tightening the rear half of the spokes.
Bike Gremlin is offline  
Old 06-01-17, 01:36 AM
  #174  
Senior Member
 
maddog34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,984

Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1300 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times in 537 Posts
so... the bottom spokes lose tension... that force is transfered to.... the top spokes.

the top spokes carry the radial load imparted to the rim, since the bottom spokes... LOSE TENSION

spokes are not very good columns

and the egg IS the chicken.... ;-)

i love a good debate.
in a recent school bond discussion before the vote, i took on the role of dissenter, just to flesh out the "over the fence" questions and complaints of my fellow taxpayers... i had always intended to vote yes, but many were planning to vote no on that bond issue.

I took no end of heat for dissenting.... didn't care one bit... the views and questions needed addressed. The bond measure passed by a hefty margin.... polling was neck and neck two weeks prior to the vote.

and the force transferred to a wheel loaded with a bike and rider simple can not vanish. The TOP spokes carry an increase in tension load imparted by gravity. PERIOD.

i bought Brandt's book many years ago, now... read it cover to cover... and i yelled "BS" more than once while reading that first chapter.... paid 48 cents for it... virtually brand new copy, too... i love half price day at the thrift store... i had it out about two weeks ago... wanted to see what to do about a rim that had the holes opposite to most others... ended up lacing it opposite to the normal way... first spoke to the right of the valve stem hole, etc.... my choice, since that was apparently not addressed in "The Bicycle Wheel", that i could find, anyways... might be there... too busy to look further... it's spring!


loads can NOT vanish.... they are TRANSFERRED.

build up a wheel with 8 spokes, radially laced... retest... see what happens to the spoke strain then.

what fails in a bike wheel's spokes? the nipples, and the spokes... HOW do they fail? TOO MUCH TENSION IMPARTED BY LOADS.... and failure under load due to wear or damage... they don't bend in half... they tear apart... from too much tension, eh?

i have never seen a bike spoke fail from too little tension on it... sure seen a lot torn in half, though.... same for nipple failures...

Last edited by maddog34; 06-01-17 at 02:03 AM.
maddog34 is offline  
Old 06-01-17, 01:53 AM
  #175  
Mostly harmless ™
 
Bike Gremlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,430

Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1107 Post(s)
Liked 217 Times in 131 Posts
Originally Posted by maddog34
so... the bottom spokes lose tension... that force is transfered to.... the top spokes.
Tire is pressed at ground contact point. It's force pulling the wheel outwards is diminished at contact point, while it's inward pushing force (from pressure) remains the same all around. The reduced pulling force causes less spoke tension in the down spoke or two. The spokes next to the lowest one/two get a little bit of extra tension, but not as much as it is lost due to tyre's lowered "pull". It is explained, tested and confirmed.

In the previous post I provided the name of the book that explains it, as well as a link to a PDF on-line file that experiments with it.

You can easily test it yourself. Pluck the top spokes. Load the wheel and pluck them again. Does the sound change? Neither does the tension.

It's good to always question things, but one must also consider a possibility of being wrong themselves, usually by missing an important factor that plays a part. I was also certain the wheel hangs from the top spokes, it was "only logical!" "PERIOD", as you put it.

Last edited by Bike Gremlin; 06-01-17 at 01:57 AM.
Bike Gremlin is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.