What are the biggest wastes of money in biking?
#1226
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Wrecked real bad last year - wife was alerted and called me... my phone ringing helped me come out of my knocked out state. I limped out of the trail I was on, she was waiting at the truck with bandages, food... cut my bike clothes off and drove me to the ER. It's a nice feature.
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#1227
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I keep mine in my left jersey pocket and turned on because I often stop to take pics during my rides, and occasionally I get calls or messages that need to be addressed at a higher priority than my bike ride. A call/message alert pops up on my Wahoo, and I can filter the urgency of it immediately.
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#1228
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On the MTB I have my phone on the handlebar. Garmin cycling units aren't great for wilderness navigation. On the phone I can get accurate topographic maps with GPS (for free! Yay Finland!).
On the road bike I typically have a garmin explorer for navigation and the phone for... things..
On the road bike I typically have a garmin explorer for navigation and the phone for... things..
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#1229
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I wear progressive bifocals. I have one pair of sunglasses I do all outside/sun activities in. Denali somethings. I wonder if this brand of sunglasses are available in bifocals? According to the spokesperson they are the ones to wear.
#1230
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As for the phone/bike computer, my watch does all that. I don't have a need to be constantly checking my data. I can look at my watch if I need to. It displays all the data fields that a bike computer does. If you do multi sport, you need one anyway. The phone and similar items go in a small dry bag in one of my jersey pockets. I'm a heavy sweater. I've also had zip lock bags fail. The dry bag does it's job.
Last edited by seypat; 04-13-23 at 12:10 PM.
#1231
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As for the phone/bike computer, my watch does all that. I don't have a need to be constantly checking my data. I can look at my watch if I need to. It displays all the data fields that a bike computer does. If you do multi sport, you need one anyway. The phone and similar items goe in a small dry bag in one of my jersey pockets. I'm a heavy sweater. I've also had zip lock bags fail. The dry bag keeps the stuff dry.
Long rides or efforts - having power data right there is a great way to meter your efforts. If I'm riding 3 hours with a tail wind and just feeling great flying along - I may be gassing out, and have to suffer back into the head wind. The power data is a great piece of information...
#1232
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For training/intervals - the bike computer displaying heart rate and power is awesome.
Long rides or efforts - having power data right there is a great way to meter your efforts. If I'm riding 3 hours with a tail wind and just feeling great flying along - I may be gassing out, and have to suffer back into the head wind. The power data is a great piece of information...
Long rides or efforts - having power data right there is a great way to meter your efforts. If I'm riding 3 hours with a tail wind and just feeling great flying along - I may be gassing out, and have to suffer back into the head wind. The power data is a great piece of information...
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#1233
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For training/intervals - the bike computer displaying heart rate and power is awesome.
Long rides or efforts - having power data right there is a great way to meter your efforts. If I'm riding 3 hours with a tail wind and just feeling great flying along - I may be gassing out, and have to suffer back into the head wind. The power data is a great piece of information...
Long rides or efforts - having power data right there is a great way to meter your efforts. If I'm riding 3 hours with a tail wind and just feeling great flying along - I may be gassing out, and have to suffer back into the head wind. The power data is a great piece of information...
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#1235
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I find having a head unit with speed, cadence, HR, and distance works for me. I wear a watch, so I can check the time, and I sometimes (rarely) use it as a stopwatch for a few climbs. I look at the head unit more often than I'd want to take my left hand off the bars and angle it so I can read the display.
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#1237
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For training/intervals - the bike computer displaying heart rate and power is awesome.
Long rides or efforts - having power data right there is a great way to meter your efforts. If I'm riding 3 hours with a tail wind and just feeling great flying along - I may be gassing out, and have to suffer back into the head wind. The power data is a great piece of information...
Long rides or efforts - having power data right there is a great way to meter your efforts. If I'm riding 3 hours with a tail wind and just feeling great flying along - I may be gassing out, and have to suffer back into the head wind. The power data is a great piece of information...
Thanks!
#1238
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Carbon fiber, disc brakes, power meters, gimmicky saddles, electronic shifting, threadless headsets, tubeless tires,
Perhaps I am showing my age here,
Perhaps I am showing my age here,
#1239
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#1240
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Some people can put out massive watts for hours and a 68 YO like me who is fit, but not super fit or retired racer and do 150 Watts for a few hours.
I would recommend starting with a low average wattage like 130 for a long ride. Too easy? Do 150? Too easy do 175? I can do 175 for an hour with no issue but not for 3n hours. So just keep increasing your watts slowly. Better to not overdue right out of the gate.
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#1241
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Unfortunately there is no easy answer unless you use ZWIFT or something similar to track your watts. How old are you? How fit are you? Can you ride 100 miles in 5 hours. 6 hours, 7 hours? How hot is your environment? Do you live in a hilly or flat or mixed area? Can you ride 50 or 30 miles at what average speed? So many variables.
Some people can put out massive watts for hours and a 68 YO like me who is fit, but not super fit or retired racer and do 150 Watts for a few hours.
I would recommend starting with a low average wattage like 130 for a long ride. Too easy? Do 150? Too easy do 175? I can do 175 for an hour with no issue but not for 3n hours. So just keep increasing your watts slowly. Better to not overdue right out of the gate.
Some people can put out massive watts for hours and a 68 YO like me who is fit, but not super fit or retired racer and do 150 Watts for a few hours.
I would recommend starting with a low average wattage like 130 for a long ride. Too easy? Do 150? Too easy do 175? I can do 175 for an hour with no issue but not for 3n hours. So just keep increasing your watts slowly. Better to not overdue right out of the gate.
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#1242
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Thanks. I'm 42 and I can do a metric century in about 3h 15min of riding and a full century in around 5 and a half. So I'd say I'm in pretty decent shape, although I'm riding in very flat environment and at sea level, so I'd definitely not be as fast with hills or at higher elevation. I guess I'll just ride a long ride the way I usually do and see what power is comfortable over the whole ride to use as my baseline.
I found my max heart rate.
I found my +/- Garmin predicted FTP & VO2 max power.
Plenty of online "zone" calculators online.
I set my riding and training zones from those numbers.
Too much time at or above FTP (Zone 4 or threshold) levels, things start to go sideways on long, 2+hour, rides. Zone 3 (tempo) is OK for fast sub 2 hour rides. High Z2 is century power. Group rides - all bets are off.
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#1244
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Add this to the list:
This Square-Wheeled Bicycle Works Like a Pedal-Powered Tank
https://gizmodo.com/square-wheeled-bicycle-bike-pedal-tank-wheels-the-q-1850332349
#1246
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#1247
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I don't know what you'd properly call them, but those square things are definitely not wheels--they don't actually roll. They're just frames that the caterpilar treads are wrapped around. There are wheels driving that tread, but they're round.
Cute stunt, I guess.
#1250
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I was going to respond, but after reading stuff like, "it's their money, they can spend it anyway they want", such a statement had nothing to do with the question, I decided not to waste my time just to get some smart ass response. Time is money, so I wasted my time with this biking question, not that the question was bad, it was some of the responses that were.