Normandy Hub Service Help
10-02-19, 05:06 PM
#26
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I have taken regular taps to the wire wheel to dull them for this but they are usually still too sharp for me, dies can be filed but again are still too sharp IMO.
Seen many a good tech/mechanic strip a savable thread with regular taps.
10-02-19, 05:22 PM
#27
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After seeing the pix, I am curious - is this mangled axle end perhaps an artifact of running a quick release skewer on those thin, thin, stamped dropouts Raleigh used on the Gran Sport? My memory is that I had trouble running a conventional Normandy rear hub with skewer on an ancient Raleigh Lenton when I was trying to run it as a fixed-gear - the amount of axle sticking out past the locknuts was just a whisker too much, and it required using derailleur mounting claws on the dropouts to get the skewer to clamp properly. Is that possibly what caused this problem?
By the way, has anyone ever used one of these? I kept seeing ads for them on YouTube woodworking videos when I was building a set of drawers for my wife last winter. Hey, the listing says "Customer is God", so they gotta be good, right?
Edit: and yes, it'll only work after the OP gets the nut off and then threads the cone down far enough for the axle end to bottom in the tool. Almost didn't see that.
But I think that is the ultimate solution in any case. You want a bevel on the end of any male-threaded part, to make it easier to start the nut straight and not cross-threaded, right? You don't really want to salvage or restore that last thread anyway, you want to file or grind it off to make the bevel. This tool is supposed to make the bevel accurately instead of having to file or grind, inaccurately for someone like me, all the way around it.https://www.amazon.ca/Deburring-External-Chamfer-Stainless-Removal/dp/B07P46WJ6Z/ref=asc_df_B07P46WJ6Z/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335074830635&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11890639641208548039&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h vqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002265&hvtargid=pla-769685666126&psc=1
Last edited by conspiratemus1; 10-02-19 at 05:39 PM.
10-02-19, 11:48 PM
#28
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So I bought a thread repair file and was able to open up the crushed thread on the ends of the axle. Then I was able to back out the nuts using my fingers with slight resistance.
Repacked the hub with new balls and it's good as new. I'm surprised it was spinning so rough before I thought the race was damaged.
Off topic, the crankset is BSA, is the thread for the pedals standard? I want to use my clipless pedals instead of toe clips.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Repacked the hub with new balls and it's good as new. I'm surprised it was spinning so rough before I thought the race was damaged.
Off topic, the crankset is BSA, is the thread for the pedals standard? I want to use my clipless pedals instead of toe clips.
Thanks everyone for the help.
10-03-19, 06:21 AM
#29
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Those are standard English 9/16 x 20 threads, or close enough that it's not an issue. Nice Nervar crankset, too - with the stock rings you have, the inner ring is the Nervar-only 128 mm bcd (though some of us have learned to artfully dremel 130 bcd rings 1 mm inward to make them fit), or if you felt like it you could run T.A. or Velo Orange rings.
