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Narhay's 1975 Raleigh International

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Old 03-21-17, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandera
The original brake bolt mount Blackburn rack, and it's plethora of knock-offs from Vetta and others, would be both period correct and useful.
I've had one and off of my Internat'l for decades.
Look in your local co-op, old shops and on the usual auction site for one.

-Bandera
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5036-5...stay-Rear-Rack

This one doesn't look like it would be out of place...
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Old 03-21-17, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5036-5...stay-Rear-Rack

This one doesn't look like it would be out of place...
A knock-off of the venerable Blackburn Expedition rack.
Looks like it comes w/ coated P-clamps: Good to Go.

-Bandera
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Old 03-21-17, 06:08 PM
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I would hold out for an old Blackburn that attaches to the rear brake bolt. They're still fairly common and usually not not expensive.
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Old 03-21-17, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kroozer
I would hold out for an old Blackburn that attaches to the rear brake bolt. They're still fairly common and usually not not expensive.

Pretty sure I have one the OP is welcome to for the cost of shipping. @Narhay
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Old 04-18-17, 11:59 PM
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I have finally begun working on the bike. Sun rims M13II onto high flange record hub. I've used this combination a couple times before and I've liked it. Classic, plain silver rim, sapim db spokes and what I believe
to be the finest vintage hubs in existence. You can see evidence of the sources of my lack of time in the background, x2.



Sun race 6 and 7 speed freewheels. The 6 speed needs 31mm spacing, the 7 needs almost 36mm. I may have to harvest some thinner locknuts and spacers from another campy hub to make the 7 speed freewheel fit as mine has a wide, single piece locknut, thin keyed washer and cone on the non drive side. Not much for adjusting axle spacing.

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Old 04-19-17, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I am intending on adding 45mm fenders to this bike. I was about to pull the trigger on a set of Velo Orange 45mm silver fenders until two unknown options presented themselves. I have a Raleigh Competition as my go-fast bike with no fenders, 28mm tires, etc. so this one will be more along the lines of a comfortable, dry ride.

Option 1 - Origin 8 classic silver hammered fenders. These are basically copies of Velo Orange hammered fenders but at $52 instead of $68. I have the 35mm Velo Orange version on my Peugeot PX-10 and liked them once I got the rattles down to an acceptable level.



Option 2 - Handsome Cycles copper fenders at $70. These would certainly match the bike but I have to wonder if it would be too much matchy matchy. What are your thoughts?


Unless they're exactly the same colour, the copper guards would look slightly out in my opinion.
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Old 05-11-17, 11:13 PM
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I have started the teardown. What manner of blasphemy is this (unmarked 170mm non driveside crank arm) and do any of you have a 172.5 Nuovo Record non drive side crank arm? I was just about ready to unclench my nether regions and forgive not having the Campagnolo shield on the lowly crank arm but this mismatched length won't do at all.









Apparently only one side of the bottom bracket got repacked.





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Old 05-11-17, 11:16 PM
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first time looking at this thread- and WOW what a color on that frame! also you are good at photography.
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Old 05-11-17, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jetboy
first time looking at this thread- and WOW what a color on that frame! also you are good at photography.
Thanks for the compliment. I'm about to cut and wax the frame so hopefully the colour comes out even more.

I'm just taking quick photos on my phone. My real camera is at work because I tend to use it more frequently there as I am usually out and about.
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Old 05-12-17, 01:10 AM
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I've discovered another potential fatal flaw for my existing drivetrain...the fixed cup and the drive side of the spindle are toast. Going to have to figure out what I want to do now as keeping it OG is starting to add up quickly.

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Old 05-12-17, 03:57 AM
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Still worth doing unless you stumble on an inexpensive upgrade like a Phil Woods BB at a great price.

There's a bike swap meet near me on Saturday and I can look for a fixed (I'm assuming British 1.370 x 24) thick wall (rifled) cup, and a 68-SS Spindle. I know a fellow with a number of NOS cups, I'll check with him to see what he has.

If you can, measure the spindle length to verify, should be 113.5mm (54 bet. bearing race shoulders, 28 on left, 31.5 on right). That would be the "new style" Record with gray finish. There is also the Nuovo Record gray finish that is 49mm Bet. race shoulders, 30mm left, 33.5mm right, total 112.5, and then the Super Record spindle with silver reflective finish (which looks like yours) at 52mm bet. race shoulders, 30mm left, 33.5mm right, total 115.5mm.

Would suggest also a new set of bearings. Measure the size of the bearings to check if you have 1/4" or 3/16" but it looks like you have the 1/4" size. You want the adjustable cup too?

As for the cranks, some quick research on ebay suggests the non-drive crank arm is an Ambrosio (from lack of imprinted make logo, pedal engraving, and "strada 170" engravement.

Here's a couple of current Ebay listing with them:
VGC Colnago Ambrosio Special/Strada crankset - 170 mm - Laser printed | eBay
Pics 1-4 show the left side crank.

Ambrosio Colnago Pantograph Left Crank Arm Vintage Racing Bicycle 175mm Strada | eBay
a 175mm single Ambrosio crank, similar in appearance:
Pics 5-6.

Might be hard to find a 172.5mm left side crank alone. Would you consider changing to a Campagnolo NR 170mm crankset since they are much more common?
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Old 05-12-17, 04:49 AM
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This might also be of interest, no affiliation.
Campagnolo Nuovo Record Bottom Bracket Fixed Cup English Thread Classic Road | eBay

Vintage Campagnolo Record Bottom Bracket Fixed Cup (English) | eBay
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Old 05-12-17, 07:09 AM
  #38  
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Thank you for the sleuthing and the ID on the Ambrosio arm. I took my calipers out and measured the spindle...114.5mm 🤔.

I am seeing some new production campagnolo veloce 115mm sealed bottom bracket units that are purported to work with pre-1995 record units. Does this include the pre-1978 record like mine?

I may have to find a pair of more common 170mm crank arms and call it a day. I suppose my build will be delayed just a bit but it's already been 5 months to get to this point so what's another little while longer?

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Old 05-12-17, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I have started the teardown. What manner of blasphemy is this (unmarked 170mm non driveside crank arm) and do any of you have a 172.5 Nuovo Record non drive side crank arm? I was just about ready to unclench my nether regions and forgive not having the Campagnolo shield on the lowly crank arm but this mismatched length won't do at all.



Might want to try sanding out that gouge in the R/H crank arm left by the front derailleur too. Those stress risers are just trouble waiting to happen.
..speaking of which.... any little cracks in the webs where the R/H crank arm joins the spider?

A shame that the axle and fixed cup were trashed. I can only assume that someone thought it was too much trouble to clean the old grease out and clean things up??


Steve in Peoria
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Old 05-12-17, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by steelbikeguy
Might want to try sanding out that gouge in the R/H crank arm left by the front derailleur too. Those stress risers are just trouble waiting to happen.
..speaking of which.... any little cracks in the webs where the R/H crank arm joins the spider?

A shame that the axle and fixed cup were trashed. I can only assume that someone thought it was too much trouble to clean the old grease out and clean things up??


Steve in Peoria
I'm not quite sure what happened with the bottom bracket.

No cracks at the arm spider interface. I'll keep looking for a suitable replacement arm or pair.
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Old 05-12-17, 12:24 PM
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I have a clean 81 spider and nds arm, 172.5 for both of them. They have their dust caps and the chain ring bolts included. Any suggestions? I'm big, cheap and easy. And I can be had.....

I have gone to 170 mm crank arms, this one is now unused.

Pictures in just a bit.

Bill
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Old 05-12-17, 01:33 PM
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Ever had your legs measured? hardly anyone's are exactly the same, so you might be lucky and the mismatch is perfect…

Nasty Bottom bracket, why I tear down every bike I buy right upon receipt, no matter how beautiful it is upon purchase.
Note- there are a LOT of bad / shady mechanics out there in vintage bike land.
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Old 05-12-17, 01:57 PM
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Maybe it's just me, but I've had good luck swapping over to cartridge BBs. I know they aren't period correct and I know they are disposable units, unless you ride a ton in the rain, I don't see replacing them that often.

Also, I saw the bike with the wheels that came on it, and thought to myself "well, take off the stickers and they are probably fine"...till I saw the silver.
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Old 05-12-17, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by qcpmsame
I have a clean 81 spider and nds arm, 172.5 for both of them. They have their dust caps and the chain ring bolts included. Any suggestions? I'm big, cheap and easy. And I can be had.....

I have gone to 170 mm crank arms, this one is now unused.

Pictures in just a bit.

Bill
The record cranks on my Masi are 172.5mm, and I've been thinking of replacing them since the drive side spider has the classic crack in the web. It's not really been a priority for me as the old Masi is basically a wall hanger that I keep for nostalgia.

This would leave me with an 'extra' perfectly serviceable NDS/left 172.5 crank. Perhaps we could all work out something out? PM me if you like.
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Old 05-12-17, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
The record cranks on my Masi are 172.5mm, and I've been thinking of replacing them since the drive side spider has the classic crack in the web. It's not really been a priority for me as the old Masi is basically a wall hanger that I keep for nostalgia.

This would leave me with an 'extra' perfectly serviceable NDS/left 172.5 crank. Perhaps we could all work out something out? PM me if you like.
I would take @qcpmsame 's non drive side if you want to acquire his drive side.
I'm not above overt flattery to make this happen.
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Old 05-12-17, 06:38 PM
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No problems with dividing things up, for now please PM me your shipping address and I'll get them out tomorrow. We can discuss things through PMs.

Bill
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Old 05-12-17, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I would take @qcpmsame 's non drive side if you want to acquire his drive side.
I'm not above overt flattery to make this happen.
Sure, I'll do it. PM's sent.
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Old 05-12-17, 08:07 PM
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PMs received, settled and mailing the parts this weekend. Pop the corks on the champagne/beer cans popped open, etc. I'm out and just watching now, happily.

Bill
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Old 05-12-17, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by qcpmsame
PMs received, settled and mailing the parts this weekend. Pop the corks on the champagne/beer cans popped open, etc. I'm out and just watching now, happily.

Bill
I do have to say members like you are the reason I came here and never left, plus the bikes are ok too, I guess. If you have a molteni orange colnago in 60cm you can put that in the bubble mailer too. 😀
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Old 05-12-17, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I've discovered another potential fatal flaw for my existing drivetrain...the fixed cup and the drive side of the spindle are toast. Going to have to figure out what I want to do now as keeping it OG is starting to add up quickly.
While it doesn't help with your quest to keep it original -- if you are willing to consider moderately priced cartridge bottom brackets, I can recommend the Origin8 Campagnolo (ISO) taper bottom brackets. They're about $35 through Amazon. Available in 102, 111, and 115mm in the ISO tapers. (Others are JIS). I've used one in 115mm to replace the Sugino MW-68 bottom bracket from my Centurion Semi-Pro. (The Sugino is a 100% knockoff of the pre-78 record bottom bracket.) I've only got about 1000 miles, and less than a year on it, so I can't speak to it's long term durability, but it looks very well made, and unlike the Phil Woods or IRD bottom brackets, there are nice lip seals in the cups themselves, in addition to the standard seals of the bearings themselves.

The single lip seals are the one weak point of the cartridge bearing bottom brackets like Phil. Probably not an issue in dry climates, but I wouldn't use that kind of seal in wet conditions. I think Shimano / Tange have a real edge in their bottom brackets, as the bearings are integral to the spindle, rather than discrete bearing units. This allows more and larger balls, while keeping the spindle beefy. Unfortunately, they aren't available in ISO tapers, and I'm not real comfortable mounting ISO cranks where they're only halfway on a JIS taper. (Probably safe, but I can't imagine it does much good for the socket in the crank.)
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