Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#9151
aka: Dr. Cannondale
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That 105 group is classic. Works well, works forever.
Those single pivot calipers are some of the best SP brakes ever made, but yeah, they need new pads to replace the 33 year old rock hard ones.
That RD will shift up to a 28 tooth cog, makes it easier to get up some of the local hills with a 39 small ring.
Those single pivot calipers are some of the best SP brakes ever made, but yeah, they need new pads to replace the 33 year old rock hard ones.
That RD will shift up to a 28 tooth cog, makes it easier to get up some of the local hills with a 39 small ring.
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#9154
Me duelen las nalgas
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Thanks, Doc. I may take you up on that, at least we could ride together and discuss ideas going forward. I did a 20-mile lightly hilly ride last evening and have a few observations about this bike. The ride spurs you to push harder. Part of it is the geometry and frame material, and the remainder is the tight, high gearing. At cadence, it moves out smartly. The 6-speed SIS 105 stuff works remarkably well, I thought, although the front upshift seemed to bog down a bit unless I put very positive pressure on the lever. (Note: I need to look at that, could be cable binding or something interfering with reaching the high limit position.) This bike was targeted toward stud riders. The downside is braking, obviously. I didn't swap out the pads, which appear to be original. Cartridge KoolStops would help a lot, as would better calipers. Overall, though, I like it, I must say.
Regular cable liner might be better for more complex routing, like the metal noodles around the seat cluster for the cantilever brakes on my Univega. But for the simple arc under the Ironman's BB, those plastic stems on cheap cotton swabs are fine.
Regarding braking, I noticed a big difference when both rear rims cracked on anodized box section Araya CTL-370 and Wolber Super Champion Alpine wheels. After umpteen years and lots of miles on bad roads the spokes pulled up and cracked the rims. Braking was always sketchy with those hard anodized rims. I replaced them with plain aluminum Araya and Mavic semi-aero rims and braking was much more positive. Nearly tossed me forward the first time I braked hard on a downhill.
I preferred the looks of the grey anodized rims, though. I saved the front wheels from both sets and might eventually find matching rims to build complete wheelsets again. And I'll pay closer attention to spoke tension.
But switching to plain black Jagwire pads on one bike, and Shimano's cheapest pad/shoe combo for another, helped with a couple of bikes. The original pads were like hard wooden blocks in comparison.
#9155
Senior Member
Here's where I'm at...or stuck.
Not very pretty.
Worse, it's too short. The frame is a 54cm, the fork came from a 54cm. Oh well it was just temporary til I found a suitable replacement or paint it to match. There are several possibilities for the discrepancies including component choice however I think it's headtube size brought on by a geometry change.
Not very pretty.
Worse, it's too short. The frame is a 54cm, the fork came from a 54cm. Oh well it was just temporary til I found a suitable replacement or paint it to match. There are several possibilities for the discrepancies including component choice however I think it's headtube size brought on by a geometry change.
#9156
Newbie
Centurion Pic
My 1987 Terry is finished. I just need to hit it with the goo be gone due to the gazillion stickers I had to remove from it.
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#9157
Senior Member
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#9158
Zip tie Karen
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Try some cable liners in the brazed metal cable guides under the bottom bracket. It'll smooth out the front derailleur shifting. I installed new cables a few weeks ago and couldn't find my loop of cable liner, so I made some from cotton swabs with plastic stems -- a whole buck a package from the dollar store. Works great...
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#9160
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This turned out to have been the problem. Exactly. I pulled the new inner cables, and sure enough, they showed signs of wear just at the point where they pass through that metal cable guide beneath. I inserted two small lengths of liner, and bingo. Thanks for pointing to this. PG
I used to use spare housing in curves where the area/bracket/guides had space.
I've bent a few prongs back on certain Treks so I could put a piece of cable housing in there.
I think I started using liner when I found a roll of it for $2 at a yard sale.
I never liked the idea of metal on metal, or even sharp bends, for that matter.
I'm working on a bike where the frame is built with liner running internally from the DT cable stops to the FD and RD.
All the way. No fishing or foul language. Then I ran the brake cable housing right through the TT, and it routed itself.
Who'da thought, in 1996?
#9161
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Here's where I'm at...or stuck.
Not very pretty.
Worse, it's too short. The frame is a 54cm, the fork came from a 54cm. Oh well it was just temporary til I found a suitable replacement or paint it to match. There are several possibilities for the discrepancies including component choice however I think it's headtube size brought on by a geometry change.
Not very pretty.
Worse, it's too short. The frame is a 54cm, the fork came from a 54cm. Oh well it was just temporary til I found a suitable replacement or paint it to match. There are several possibilities for the discrepancies including component choice however I think it's headtube size brought on by a geometry change.
I do need your address, though, as my PM's evaporated.
#9162
Senior Member
#9164
Senior Member
Again, not a Centurion but IS a Centurion...
The COLORS!! (and for sale cheap https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/...210731253.html )
The COLORS!! (and for sale cheap https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/...210731253.html )
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#9165
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#9166
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Here’s something you don’t see everyday. I picked up this 1988 Japanese Domestic Market Expert from a veteran who bought it new in Japan. It doesn’t say Ironman as they didn’t recognize the Ironman overseas and it’s in a color combo not offered in the states. I threw on some tires and wrapped the bars in black Brooks tape to change the look up.
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#9167
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Here you go. I bought this bike from a CL seller in the Norfolk VA area. It has the stickers from Hirako Cycles in Zushi, Japan. As with all of my bikes, I put a triple and barcons on it. It also has different rims. I put a new set of Black Contis on yesterday. I usually run gummies.
The shop sticker with phone number is fading away.
Hirako Cycles is still in business.
https://www.hirako.com/
The shop sticker with phone number is fading away.
Hirako Cycles is still in business.
https://www.hirako.com/
Last edited by seypat; 10-09-20 at 10:33 AM.
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#9168
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While I was putting new shoes on the IM, it occurred to me that I have 3 IM color schemes and lots of different rim/tire color combos lying around. I put some of the different combos on the bikes so people can see what it will look like before they lay down some coin.
First, the MV IM. You see the black/black combo above, here are others:
My opinion:
The silver and gummies didn't look good enough to even post.
The silver/black looks better than I thought it would.
The black/dark gummies look good and better than the light gummies.
The black/black is quickly growing on me!
First, the MV IM. You see the black/black combo above, here are others:
My opinion:
The silver and gummies didn't look good enough to even post.
The silver/black looks better than I thought it would.
The black/dark gummies look good and better than the light gummies.
The black/black is quickly growing on me!
Last edited by seypat; 10-09-20 at 10:57 AM.
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#9169
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Next is the red and white beater/loaner IM which is the test mule for my how to posts.
My opinion:
You really can't go wrong with any of them. I can't decide. The silver/black and black/black really make the old battle axe look a lot better.
My opinion:
You really can't go wrong with any of them. I can't decide. The silver/black and black/black really make the old battle axe look a lot better.
Last edited by seypat; 10-09-20 at 11:09 AM.
#9170
Sunshine
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#9171
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Up last we have this bike. It's not an IM, but is an IM paint scheme.
My opinion:
Old school original is ok, but the other two are hot!
The silver/black is sweet.
The black/black with black bar tape could be the way to go.
Again, I can't decide.
My opinion:
Old school original is ok, but the other two are hot!
The silver/black is sweet.
The black/black with black bar tape could be the way to go.
Again, I can't decide.
Last edited by seypat; 10-09-20 at 11:25 AM.
#9172
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This is their idea of 54cm. Were I to write the ad, I'd say "fits riders 5'6" to 6'6" tall."
The seat post has at least 150mm more available down in the ST.
You can bolt the cradle into 3 different holes on the post.
Add in saddle rail positioning, and you've got a LOT of variance for sizing.
The stem has, yes, two pivot points, 3 if you count the bar clamp.
A LOT of variance is possible fore/aft and up/down.
Doc would love to play with this thing.
#9173
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@Phil_gretz, nice '87 classic! I really like mine a lot. Such a great bike. I built mine with Sora R3000 and it has been flawless.
Your paint looks nicer than mine. Good luck with it.
Your paint looks nicer than mine. Good luck with it.
#9174
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#9175
Newbie
Im feeling the black/black on the JDM and the silver on the red/white. I’ll bet the silver would look great on a black 89 Expert or the grey fade master/Expert.