New to me 1978 Jack Taylor!
08-22-19, 06:28 PM
#26
Rustbelt Rider
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Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
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Gorgeous bike! I agree, that’s up there in grail status. Hoods, pedals... maybe a rear derailleur swap and done! Perfecto!
08-22-19, 07:51 PM
#27
No one cares
thats a real nice one, Clark.
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Jack Taylor Super Tourer Tandem (FOR SALE), Jack Taylor Tour of Britain, Px-10, Carlton Flyer, Fuji The Finest, Salsa Fargo, Santa Cruz Tallboy, Carver All-Road .
I prefer emails to private messages - holiday76@gmail.com
Jack Taylor Super Tourer Tandem (FOR SALE), Jack Taylor Tour of Britain, Px-10, Carlton Flyer, Fuji The Finest, Salsa Fargo, Santa Cruz Tallboy, Carver All-Road .
08-22-19, 09:52 PM
#28
Senior Member
Nice bike, for sure.
The water bottle boss is a hex nut brazed to the down tube! I love it - so simple.
The water bottle boss is a hex nut brazed to the down tube! I love it - so simple.
08-23-19, 12:06 PM
#29
Newbie
Racks and fenders
Love the paint coordinated racks. Looks like the racks are bolted to the dropout eyelets, but are also fixed in the fore/aft position by bolting to the fenders rather than connected directly to the brake bolts, fork, or seat stays. I've seen some examples of fenders being mounted to racks, but in this case you might say the racks are mounted to the fenders.
08-23-19, 01:26 PM
#30
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Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem
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Love the paint coordinated racks. Looks like the racks are bolted to the dropout eyelets, but are also fixed in the fore/aft position by bolting to the fenders rather than connected directly to the brake bolts, fork, or seat stays. I've seen some examples of fenders being mounted to racks, but in this case you might say the racks are mounted to the fenders.
Luckily, you can prevent it, as I mentioned in my previous post, by putting a stiffening bar of thin (1/8 or 1/16 x 3/4 or 1") aluminum under the fender, spanning from the rack studs to the seat stay bridge or fork crown fender mount, effectively attaching the rack to the frame with a nice hidden fender reinforcement. Nice thing is that it's a reversible bolt-on improvement that you can easily make with a drill and a hacksaw and a file. The Taylors left plenty of clearance so it's an easy fit.
I know people may say that the racks were never designed for loads that would damage the fenders, and that fenders are wear items anyhow, but my thought is that if they're wearing out in one particular spot first, you should reinforce that weakest spot.
08-23-19, 01:42 PM
#31
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Well, you don't see one of those every day, particularly not in this kind of condition. Fantastic score; ride in good health 
DD
DD
08-26-19, 06:49 PM
#32
Member
Nice bike. I'm sure a six speed cluster would fit that wheel, but I'd still want to see what I could find in a seven. Perhaps you can get enough variation with seven in the rear and two in the front. I used to tour on a 49-42 with at six speed 13 to 24 on the rear. It turns out that I never used the 13. I did some silly things 35 years ago.
08-27-19, 10:08 AM
#33
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Bikes: 1978 Jack Taylor "Tour of Britain", 2010 Cannondale CAAD9-4, 2013, Cannondale Supersix Evo Red Racing, 1969 Jack Taylor Ladies "Tourist" (wife's), 2010 Specialized Dolce Sport (wife's)
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My favorite color for a Jack Taylor. Very nice bike in superb condition. Enjoy the ride!
08-29-19, 02:03 PM
#34
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It looks touring friendly already, front and rear racks, front and rear mudguards. It doesn't appear to need much, perhaps new covers for the brake levers. Can't tell what size and type of tires you have there, but depending on the terrain and weather, you may not need to do anything in that regard.
08-30-19, 04:24 PM
#35
Full Member
Welcome to the Taylor owners club. They really are special, aren't they?
If you find the serial (on one of the dropouts of the older bikes, often also on the rear rack tab that bolts to the eyelet, not sure about yours), you can get the original build sheet with size and date from Mike Thompson (meauxtown at yahoo dot com). He's a very friendly guy.
Regarding making it a bit more touring-friendly. On my Taylor tandem, I wasn't satisfied with the racks being supported by the fenders alone as their top mounting point. I fabricated some aluminum strips that run inside the fenders to keep the racks from enlarging their holes in the fenders and stiffen them up a bit under lateral and longitudinal loading. You should be able to do this without modifying the Taylors' original work, provided the studs on the racks that go through the fenders are long enough. I also replaced the cracked and degraded original rubber washers mounting the racks to the fenders with leather washers. VO ones will work, but I made my own because I wanted something sturdier/thicker.
Be careful with bolts and screw threads. There are three possible threadings for the 5mm-looking bolts on these bikes. If it's related to the fenders, it's probably actually M5x0.8 as you'd expect. If it's a bottle boss or rack bolt, it's anybody's guess. It could be Imperial #10-32 (readily available in USA), or it could be an obscure British thread called 2BA. Some say the brass screws are more likely to be 2BA. Your bike looks a little younger than mine, so probably less likely to have such weird stuff, but I figured I'd warn you before you strip anything!
If you find the serial (on one of the dropouts of the older bikes, often also on the rear rack tab that bolts to the eyelet, not sure about yours), you can get the original build sheet with size and date from Mike Thompson (meauxtown at yahoo dot com). He's a very friendly guy.
Regarding making it a bit more touring-friendly. On my Taylor tandem, I wasn't satisfied with the racks being supported by the fenders alone as their top mounting point. I fabricated some aluminum strips that run inside the fenders to keep the racks from enlarging their holes in the fenders and stiffen them up a bit under lateral and longitudinal loading. You should be able to do this without modifying the Taylors' original work, provided the studs on the racks that go through the fenders are long enough. I also replaced the cracked and degraded original rubber washers mounting the racks to the fenders with leather washers. VO ones will work, but I made my own because I wanted something sturdier/thicker.
Be careful with bolts and screw threads. There are three possible threadings for the 5mm-looking bolts on these bikes. If it's related to the fenders, it's probably actually M5x0.8 as you'd expect. If it's a bottle boss or rack bolt, it's anybody's guess. It could be Imperial #10-32 (readily available in USA), or it could be an obscure British thread called 2BA. Some say the brass screws are more likely to be 2BA. Your bike looks a little younger than mine, so probably less likely to have such weird stuff, but I figured I'd warn you before you strip anything!
08-30-19, 04:35 PM
#37
Full Member
Yes, fillet brazed, and the decal identifies the tubing as Tourist grade (i.e., 10/7/10) Reynolds 531.
