Pop N Wood

It is on a 38 year old Japanese frame Bianchi.

Bike has seen a lot of love. Not many original parts left on the bike, had to fix most everything that wore out through the years.

Disposable bike is so first world. You need to free your mind, son. Whole big world out there, not everyone shares your experiences.

mr_scary

I have received everything but the crank already.

I can see a distinct feature on the new Shimano CN-HG71 chain vs. the old chain.
It seems to have some sort of shape or crimp to help with shifting maybe? IDK but it looks like it might help with front shifting.


Bicycle chain 6-7-8 speed Shimano CN-HG71 vs. cheap unknown chain

mr_scary

Well I just found this on parktool, so apparently my bike has a 1 speed chain on it, not a derailer chain.
Man these cheap bikes get crappier every day I learn something I didn't know.
So now I will have the appropriate chain.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-compatibility

mr_scary

Received the crank today, only took about 30 minutes to remove the old one, and install the Claris , I was expecting it to take longer, but was very simple.
the drive side kept trying to cross thread, but being careful it finally lined up. I wire brushed the threads with a copper brush to help.

The difference is huge, it now shifts perfectly within 1/8 or 1/4 turn of the crank, it's pretty much instant, and very very smooth.
Adjusting the derailer was simple compared to the old crank. I only need to slightly move the lever and it shifts instantly.

The chain rings are a bit closer together as well, making it more precise, I was worried as the teeth are very close to the frame, but not touching.
the crank arm was hitting the kickstand, but I bent it out of the way and tightened it down, sloppy kickstand anyway.

The bike is a lot easier to pedal, and is faster due the larger chain ring being a bit bigger. I tried so hard to shift it fast and make the chain pop off but it wouldn't
There is a slight chain rub on the large chain ring when on the smallest front, and rear cog, but not to bad. nothing I can do, unless I put in a spacer.

The bike now weighs 2.4 lbs lighter as well, using a luggage digital scale to weigh it. 36.6 lbs down to 34.2 how is that even possible? I will weigh the parts I removed.

So all is fixed, I only tested it up and down my street, I will have to try a 10 or 15 mile test later this week, or weekend and give a full break in test.

Forgot to mention I also installed a pair of Race Face Ride pedals


Claris 2x8 FC-R2000, BB-RS500, BBT-69.2, CN-HG71. Race Face pedals, Crank removal tool, chain breaker


RS500 bottom bracket installed


Claris FC-R2000 installed


Shimano Claris upgrade complete on cheap Academy Gravel Bike. Ozone 500 Men's 700c Eastwind Gravel 14-Speed Bicycle

Pop N Wood

Cool. I love a happy ending. The really cool thing is the new bike tools you have added to your collection. Before you know it you will be lacing your own wheels.

I absolutely love the hollow tech style cranks, they are so easy to remove and adjust. The external bearings have a reputation for not lasting as long as the old square taper stuff, but IMO small price to pay for never having to deal with crank extractor tools again.

How did you torque down your bottom bracket bearings? Don't see a tool there.

mr_scary

I used the BBT-69.2 Socket with a 1/2" Torque ratchet and 3/8" adapter. I had to calculate Newton Meters to Foot-Pounds
However after applying the specified torque I then tested and realized it is basically just bottomed out on the shell without going any further. fits snug to the shell. any tighter and it will just begin to stretch the threads or break the bottom bracket.

Also I did not have a tool for the dust cover, so I improvised and used a scraper tool I had and just snugged it up to preload the crank. Wish I would have had the proper tool for that.

As for the crank arm I used a 1/4" torque ratchet with a socket sized for a hex/allen bit that fit the crank arm bolts, and tightened to specified torque range.


torque wrench setup


I found this torx socket in my toolbox after the fact, I could have used for the dust cover on the crank arm.


Full photo of my Ghetto bike. I know the bar position is awkward, but it fits my comfort, in the 80's I would have it completely upside down. I will practice a correct drop bar. but I'm short, and this bike is way to big for me.


DIY accessory bar made from EMT clamps, and PVC pipe, so I could mount my Android Phone, and 32oz Pepsi Styrofoam Soft drink lol.

Pop N Wood

Love those blue pinstripe tires.

You already had some tools looks like. Got the impression you were a first time bike mechanic, just wanted to make sure you didn't tighten the BB by hand. Even I don't own a nice socket like that.

I miss having shift levers up at the stem like that.

mr_scary

Im definately not an experienced bike mechanic other then tinkering as a kid, and just got into it due to my old bike being 20 years old. I have a lot of tools from other things Collected over the years. I do my own auto work, equipment maintenance etc. Sort of a DIY kind of person. I like the shifters as well, feels retro, but I want some of those new brake/shifters my buddy has them on his bike,

fietsbob

Bars turned way up like that, you may want a different stem . taller/higher, shorter bars reach too far to the main brake levers
tops of drop bars are most useful when level to the horizon... that bend is remnant from before brake lever hoods were so long
the newer bars have a shorter distance, back to front..
( or change away from drop bars entirely, as I see you predominately using the inner brake lever on that setup.)







...

Pop N Wood

My newest bike has the brifters, definitely the nicest way to shift.

As for handle bars you should consider some bullhorns. Looks like they would be perfect for your riding position. Can't really use brifters with those.

I see lots of posts about people feeling the tops of the drops need to be level. Not sure if that is real or just another thing to tease people about.

mr_scary

I turned the bars back down level, and will practice that a bit. It's just very comfortable have then pulled back for cruising. But I notice on the quality bikes like the trek checkpoint AL4/3 it does not have split brakes. Although the bike shop said it can be added to hydraulic brakes it's very expensive to do though. Something for me to think about on my next bike purchase.

mr_scary

Thought I would post a followup:

I've put about 20 miles on the bike since the upgrade, the chain has not fell of once, shifts wonderfully. feels much faster.

However last night me and my buddy finished a late night ride about 11:00 pm and thought we would try out those electric scooters you scan with your phone.
They go about 15+ mph, and are a blast, however mine stopped cold in it's tracks and threw me and the scooter about 15 feet, I then went an additional 10ft or so.
My firearm came unholstered and was abut 5 ft from me. ground my sights down from the concrete.
I messed up a rib pretty bad, skinned both knees, and injured my wrist. all in all I came out lucky I didn't bash my face into it.
While I was sliding all I could think was, when will I stop and felt like I punctured a lung.
There were a lot of people around. My buddy said he was able to find me due to the crowd walking away with hands on mouths saying oh my gawd, and nobody even came over to see if I was okay.
I guess that's the kind of society we live in. I would have personally ran over to help.

I'm not sure if it was a rock, or the scooter just stopped me, or I hit some thing, but it was an ordeal. I missed 1 day of work, probably not be able to work tomorrow either.

Be careful on those scooters. I could have ended the night with nice bike ride, but the kid in me got the better of it.