Steel Gravel Bikes with the Most Upright/Relaxed Posture
11-29-20, 08:55 AM
#51
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Moreover, an old 26” MTB was designed with a fairly wide (at least 1.75”) tire in mind. Changing to a skinny tire will change the steering geometry and make it twitchy and less self-correcting when turning.
These days there are at least a few smooth, fast rolling tires in 26” that would work well, like the RH Rat Trap Pass.
Otto
11-29-20, 01:57 PM
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I wouldn’t see much benefit to skinny tires: you lose the benefits of a big tire in absorbing vibration and bumps and stability on whatever surface you ride.
Moreover, an old 26” MTB was designed with a fairly wide (at least 1.75”) tire in mind. Changing to a skinny tire will change the steering geometry and make it twitchy and less self-correcting when turning.
These days there are at least a few smooth, fast rolling tires in 26” that would work well, like the RH Rat Trap Pass.
Otto
Moreover, an old 26” MTB was designed with a fairly wide (at least 1.75”) tire in mind. Changing to a skinny tire will change the steering geometry and make it twitchy and less self-correcting when turning.
These days there are at least a few smooth, fast rolling tires in 26” that would work well, like the RH Rat Trap Pass.
Otto
I’ve also just found the Niner RLT 9 Steel, which I think I’m going to go with if I can get myself relatively upright on it. I’m going to work on that with LBS, we’ll see how it goes. If it doesn’t work it’s back to the drawing board.
11-30-20, 12:13 PM
#53
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I'd be interested in thoughts on that too. I am considering converting my Gunnar Crosshairs into a more comfortable bike for similar reasons, and I thought the first step would be more upright (e.g. North Road) handlebars.
11-30-20, 12:17 PM
#54
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LOL, you need to be careful on this site.
And just like the word "expensive", even relaxed comfort bikes are not overly upright. To get a bike more upright consider a riser stem and/or a wrap back treking bar.
If you really want upright consider a touring bike. A Surly disc trucker can be set up with a nice upright geometry. A quintessential do everything, one bike for a lifetime ride.
And just like the word "expensive", even relaxed comfort bikes are not overly upright. To get a bike more upright consider a riser stem and/or a wrap back treking bar.
If you really want upright consider a touring bike. A Surly disc trucker can be set up with a nice upright geometry. A quintessential do everything, one bike for a lifetime ride.
I just sold my Disc Trucker because I've been mostly riding trails that were becoming more technical and thought I'd be better off with a hardtail MTB. Up to that point the Surly was excellent.
11-30-20, 03:43 PM
#55
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Hey guys—due to some injuries and the fact that I’m no longer doing group rides, I need to find an all-rounder bike for recreational riding. I’m considering a steel gravel bike, and was hoping the brain trust here could point me to the ones that are going to have the most relaxed/upright geometry. (My back has some issues, and really aggressive riding postures give me pelvic floor problems).
Any thoughts?
I’d originally thought about just getting a Specialized Sirrus, but I’m sort of leaning away from carbon and toward steel.
Also, am I wrong about gravel bikes in general? My understanding is that they’re very relaxed in terms of geometry, and that only “comfort” or cruiser type bikes are more relaxed.
edit: Forgot to say, I want this to be my only bike and the last one I buy for a long time. Custom fit is fine, expensive is fine.
Any thoughts?
I’d originally thought about just getting a Specialized Sirrus, but I’m sort of leaning away from carbon and toward steel.
Also, am I wrong about gravel bikes in general? My understanding is that they’re very relaxed in terms of geometry, and that only “comfort” or cruiser type bikes are more relaxed.
edit: Forgot to say, I want this to be my only bike and the last one I buy for a long time. Custom fit is fine, expensive is fine.
I bought a GREAT device for this purpose: a Look ergo stem. However, I don't think it's made on more, though you may be able to find one on ebay (at jacked up prices--a new one was expensive back when they existed, 2 or 3 hundred bucks I think)...and I would think there must be others similar.
11-30-20, 04:11 PM
#56
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To the original poster I would check out the Kona Rove - as Mr Zen suggested. It'll go anywhere. Swap the wheels; and it'll go faster on the road. Hang racks on it and go bike packing or tour across our fine country. Plus it has a variety of price points to answer the budget question.
11-30-20, 05:14 PM
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I'm probably not in your league, but we are similar in some ways. I too have physical limitations after a broken wrist and a knee replacement. I average 1,500 miles a year, mostly rides of one to two hours. I wanted a bike that would last for years, and that could go on smooth dirt/gravel trails and pavement.
After extensive comparison shopping in 2017 I bought a Giant Toughroad SLR GX 0 aluminum frame gravel bike for $1,700. It weighs about 24 pounds, but feels much safer and versatile than my 19-pound aluminum road bike (which I am selling!). It has a D-shaped saddle post that helps slightly with shock absorption—or so they say. Hard to tell.
Because of pain in my weak wrist I lifted the drop bars and added an up-angled Redshift stem that absorbs shocks up front, and keeps me more upright. I couldn't ride without it. And I prefer the different hand positions that are possible on the drop bars, rather the straight bar that I had on an earlier bike. I added the dorky mudguards because I ride all year, and we have a lot of puddles.
The drivetrain is a 1 by 11, so I extended the hill climbing range by swapping the biggest 42-tooth gear with a larger 46. That required modifying the derailleur with a longer pulley.
I like the simplicity of only one shifter and derailleur—SRAM Apex 1. The hydraulic disc brakes are also SRAM Apex. These are better components than I saw in other bikes at $1,700, which is why I went with Giant. I guess their size gives them a competitive advantage that beat their competitors' prices by about $250 if I remember correctly.
My wife thought I was crazy to spend that much on a bike, but now she appreciates how well-made it is—and how important it is in my life. I know a lot of cyclists would scoff at my uncool bike, but to me it is perfect in every way. It keeps me healthy and happy—and safe. Sometimes I wish the bike weighed less, but for the kind of riding I do, carbon wasn't worth the extra cost.
After extensive comparison shopping in 2017 I bought a Giant Toughroad SLR GX 0 aluminum frame gravel bike for $1,700. It weighs about 24 pounds, but feels much safer and versatile than my 19-pound aluminum road bike (which I am selling!). It has a D-shaped saddle post that helps slightly with shock absorption—or so they say. Hard to tell.
Because of pain in my weak wrist I lifted the drop bars and added an up-angled Redshift stem that absorbs shocks up front, and keeps me more upright. I couldn't ride without it. And I prefer the different hand positions that are possible on the drop bars, rather the straight bar that I had on an earlier bike. I added the dorky mudguards because I ride all year, and we have a lot of puddles.
The drivetrain is a 1 by 11, so I extended the hill climbing range by swapping the biggest 42-tooth gear with a larger 46. That required modifying the derailleur with a longer pulley.
I like the simplicity of only one shifter and derailleur—SRAM Apex 1. The hydraulic disc brakes are also SRAM Apex. These are better components than I saw in other bikes at $1,700, which is why I went with Giant. I guess their size gives them a competitive advantage that beat their competitors' prices by about $250 if I remember correctly.
My wife thought I was crazy to spend that much on a bike, but now she appreciates how well-made it is—and how important it is in my life. I know a lot of cyclists would scoff at my uncool bike, but to me it is perfect in every way. It keeps me healthy and happy—and safe. Sometimes I wish the bike weighed less, but for the kind of riding I do, carbon wasn't worth the extra cost.
Last edited by Merrimac; 11-30-20 at 05:44 PM. Reason: add photograph
11-30-20, 05:45 PM
#59
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Gravel bike—2017 Giant Toughroad SLR GX 0, Aluminum, raised bars, shock-absorbing stem. Merrimack River in the background—Massachusetts.
Last edited by Merrimac; 11-30-20 at 05:52 PM.
11-30-20, 05:49 PM
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The highest I've seen, in small and medium sizes was a brand in the UK called The Light Blue, the bike is called Darwin. The smaller sizes have a stack of nearly 24". Looks a nice bike too, Reynolds 725 tubing.
TheMarin Four CCorners, Breezer Radar have the highest stack in the large and xl sizes that I've found.
TheMarin Four CCorners, Breezer Radar have the highest stack in the large and xl sizes that I've found.
11-30-20, 05:55 PM
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I don't know what bike woudl be best, but I had similar issues, and what helped me was a stem that would raise the handlbars...on my bike, which is custom built frame (Independent Fabrication, it's steel, a club racer), which is a road bike with flat handle bars.
I bought a GREAT device for this purpose: a Look ergo stem. However, I don't think it's made on more, though you may be able to find one on ebay (at jacked up prices--a new one was expensive back when they existed, 2 or 3 hundred bucks I think)...and I would think there must be others similar.
I bought a GREAT device for this purpose: a Look ergo stem. However, I don't think it's made on more, though you may be able to find one on ebay (at jacked up prices--a new one was expensive back when they existed, 2 or 3 hundred bucks I think)...and I would think there must be others similar.
11-30-20, 05:59 PM
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I'm probably not in your league, but we are similar in some ways. I too have physical limitations after a broken wrist and a knee replacement. I average 1,500 miles a year, mostly rides of one to two hours. I wanted a bike that would last for years, and that could go on smooth dirt/gravel trails and pavement.
After extensive comparison shopping in 2017 I bought a Giant Toughroad SLR GX 0 aluminum frame gravel bike for $1,700. It weighs about 24 pounds, but feels much safer and versatile than my 19-pound aluminum road bike (which I am selling!). It has a D-shaped saddle post that helps slightly with shock absorption—or so they say. Hard to tell.
Because of pain in my weak wrist I lifted the drop bars and added an up-angled Redshift stem that absorbs shocks up front, and keeps me more upright. I couldn't ride without it. And I prefer the different hand positions that are possible on the drop bars, rather the straight bar that I had on an earlier bike. I added the dorky mudguards because I ride all year, and we have a lot of puddles.
The drivetrain is a 1 by 11, so I extended the hill climbing range by swapping the biggest 42-tooth gear with a larger 46. That required modifying the derailleur with a longer pulley.
I like the simplicity of only one shifter and derailleur—SRAM Apex 1. The hydraulic disc brakes are also SRAM Apex. These are better components than I saw in other bikes at $1,700, which is why I went with Giant. I guess their size gives them a competitive advantage that beat their competitors' prices by about $250 if I remember correctly.
My wife thought I was crazy to spend that much on a bike, but now she appreciates how well-made it is—and how important it is in my life. I know a lot of cyclists would scoff at my uncool bike, but to me it is perfect in every way. It keeps me healthy and happy—and safe. Sometimes I wish the bike weighed less, but for the kind of riding I do, carbon wasn't worth the extra cost.
After extensive comparison shopping in 2017 I bought a Giant Toughroad SLR GX 0 aluminum frame gravel bike for $1,700. It weighs about 24 pounds, but feels much safer and versatile than my 19-pound aluminum road bike (which I am selling!). It has a D-shaped saddle post that helps slightly with shock absorption—or so they say. Hard to tell.
Because of pain in my weak wrist I lifted the drop bars and added an up-angled Redshift stem that absorbs shocks up front, and keeps me more upright. I couldn't ride without it. And I prefer the different hand positions that are possible on the drop bars, rather the straight bar that I had on an earlier bike. I added the dorky mudguards because I ride all year, and we have a lot of puddles.
The drivetrain is a 1 by 11, so I extended the hill climbing range by swapping the biggest 42-tooth gear with a larger 46. That required modifying the derailleur with a longer pulley.
I like the simplicity of only one shifter and derailleur—SRAM Apex 1. The hydraulic disc brakes are also SRAM Apex. These are better components than I saw in other bikes at $1,700, which is why I went with Giant. I guess their size gives them a competitive advantage that beat their competitors' prices by about $250 if I remember correctly.
My wife thought I was crazy to spend that much on a bike, but now she appreciates how well-made it is—and how important it is in my life. I know a lot of cyclists would scoff at my uncool bike, but to me it is perfect in every way. It keeps me healthy and happy—and safe. Sometimes I wish the bike weighed less, but for the kind of riding I do, carbon wasn't worth the extra cost.
11-30-20, 06:59 PM
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If money is no object....
Hey guys—due to some injuries and the fact that I’m no longer doing group rides, I need to find an all-rounder bike for recreational riding. I’m considering a steel gravel bike, and was hoping the brain trust here could point me to the ones that are going to have the most relaxed/upright geometry. (My back has some issues, and really aggressive riding postures give me pelvic floor problems).
Any thoughts?
I’d originally thought about just getting a Specialized Sirrus, but I’m sort of leaning away from carbon and toward steel.
Also, am I wrong about gravel bikes in general? My understanding is that they’re very relaxed in terms of geometry, and that only “comfort” or cruiser type bikes are more relaxed.
edit: Forgot to say, I want this to be my only bike and the last one I buy for a long time. Custom fit is fine, expensive is fine.
Any thoughts?
I’d originally thought about just getting a Specialized Sirrus, but I’m sort of leaning away from carbon and toward steel.
Also, am I wrong about gravel bikes in general? My understanding is that they’re very relaxed in terms of geometry, and that only “comfort” or cruiser type bikes are more relaxed.
edit: Forgot to say, I want this to be my only bike and the last one I buy for a long time. Custom fit is fine, expensive is fine.
11-30-20, 10:05 PM
#64
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This is the stem I was talking about....i've used them on two bikes for close to 20 years, and they've made me life much easier.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+stem&_sacat=0
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+stem&_sacat=0
12-01-20, 02:03 PM
#65
Senior Member
I think the handlebar position is more important than a very expensive custom frame in order to get a very upright relaxed posture - which I also want.
I want to sit upright and to reach with a bent elbow to grasp the bar like I'm shaking hands. I get it by a modified U shaped handlebar which I position using a pivoted stem.
The pictures shown are for a 20" folder, but I've done this for years with standard size bikes.
I want to sit upright and to reach with a bent elbow to grasp the bar like I'm shaking hands. I get it by a modified U shaped handlebar which I position using a pivoted stem.
The pictures shown are for a 20" folder, but I've done this for years with standard size bikes.
12-01-20, 02:34 PM
#66
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I wouldn’t see much benefit to skinny tires: you lose the benefits of a big tire in absorbing vibration and bumps and stability on whatever surface you ride.
Moreover, an old 26” MTB was designed with a fairly wide (at least 1.75”) tire in mind. Changing to a skinny tire will change the steering geometry and make it twitchy and less self-correcting when turning.
These days there are at least a few smooth, fast rolling tires in 26” that would work well, like the RH Rat Trap Pass.
Otto
Moreover, an old 26” MTB was designed with a fairly wide (at least 1.75”) tire in mind. Changing to a skinny tire will change the steering geometry and make it twitchy and less self-correcting when turning.
These days there are at least a few smooth, fast rolling tires in 26” that would work well, like the RH Rat Trap Pass.
Otto
You probably wouldn't be able to fit anything narrower than 1.75 into a mtb rim anyways. Thst width would work fine on a bike designed around something wider.
Ive ridden on everything from 2.3 to 1.25 and for the sort of riding I do, (mostly pavement) I definetely prefer the feel and response of narrower tires.
12-01-20, 02:38 PM
#67
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With regards to an upright riding position, if you do end up getting things right with your frame and handlebars of choice, it makes for a super capable ride which proves to be very comfortable.
This is my current ride: converted to flat bars
This is my current ride: converted to flat bars
