Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#5676
Great at turning left
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Australia
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I've used skateboard grip tape and an used inner tube. The inner tube worked well, but it was a pain in the *** to get it on.
The set I use now have the rough paint texture on the grips.
The set I use now have the rough paint texture on the grips.
#5677
Senior Member
electrical shrink wrap
grip tape
electrical tape + spray adhesive + sand
hammered (textured) paint
3d printed grips
hockey tape
nothing + chalk
nothing + gloves
sort of depends on the bars. Hockey tape is probably the tackiest "tape" that you can remove pretty easily without making a mess.
grip tape
electrical tape + spray adhesive + sand
hammered (textured) paint
3d printed grips
hockey tape
nothing + chalk
nothing + gloves
sort of depends on the bars. Hockey tape is probably the tackiest "tape" that you can remove pretty easily without making a mess.
#5678
Senior Member
#5679
Great at turning left
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Australia
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Not the best pic, this is from when I sold them.
I actually even put double sided tape under the innertube after getting them on. Once they're on the bars you can roll it back stick the tape on and roll the inner tube back down. Wasn't really needed but I noticed over a lot of standing starts they were twisting a bit, even though you couldn't feel it.
Tbh I would just use grip tape, a lot easier.
#5680
Senior Member
Not the best pic, this is from when I sold them.
I actually even put double sided tape under the innertube after getting them on. Once they're on the bars you can roll it back stick the tape on and roll the inner tube back down. Wasn't really needed but I noticed over a lot of standing starts they were twisting a bit, even though you couldn't feel it.
Tbh I would just use grip tape, a lot easier.
My next question, where can I found aero plugs for my extensions and base bar?
#5681
Senior Member
You can order these directly from Profile. They come in a number of styles and are very cheap. I couldn't find them listed anywhere a few years ago, so I emailed Profile. Super helpful people.
#5682
Senior Member
So I'm starting to accumulate some bigger chainrings (55+) but running into the issue of not having a good way to transport them. My old reliable chainring/cog bag won't take anything that big. Would prefer not to have them floating free in my big bag :/
Thoughts/Suggestions?
Thoughts/Suggestions?
#5683
Senior Member
I use a laptop bag as my gear bag these days. I have cardboard folio things to separate the rings and it's big enough for all of my tools and spares and they come with a shoulder strap which is handy for transport as well. The bag easily accommodates my 60t and I think a 70t would fit as well (15" laptop bag). I outgrew my track bag as soon as I went 55+. There are some nice track bags from companies like skingrowsback that accommodate big rings if you want to stick with that style, but my laptop bag cost me all of $15
#5684
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
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Hi! New to the forum, somewhat new to track racing (but pretty experienced as a rider, I've gone ultra distance fixed)... Looking forward to my second season.
I'm looking into picking up a new frame for next year, due to my current frame being a bit small, as in I can't fit it within uci regs for mass start (I may keep that frame for tt only). I expect to focus on mostly Sprint events as they seem to suit me. Due to being 6' 3" with kinda long arms I need a long bike that's not obscenely expensive. I've narrowed it down to 2 that will fit and am looking for opinions as to which might be the better frame.
So Dixie Flyer vs Look 875 Madison.
I'm currently leaning towards the Look solely based on warranty/crash protection. Really like the look of the DF though.
Any info on either bike would be appreciated. Thanks.
I'm looking into picking up a new frame for next year, due to my current frame being a bit small, as in I can't fit it within uci regs for mass start (I may keep that frame for tt only). I expect to focus on mostly Sprint events as they seem to suit me. Due to being 6' 3" with kinda long arms I need a long bike that's not obscenely expensive. I've narrowed it down to 2 that will fit and am looking for opinions as to which might be the better frame.
So Dixie Flyer vs Look 875 Madison.
I'm currently leaning towards the Look solely based on warranty/crash protection. Really like the look of the DF though.
Any info on either bike would be appreciated. Thanks.
#5685
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
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Hi! New to the forum, somewhat new to track racing (but pretty experienced as a rider, I've gone ultra distance fixed)... Looking forward to my second season.
I'm looking into picking up a new frame for next year, due to my current frame being a bit small, as in I can't fit it within uci regs for mass start (I may keep that frame for tt only). I expect to focus on mostly Sprint events as they seem to suit me. Due to being 6' 3" with kinda long arms I need a long bike that's not obscenely expensive. I've narrowed it down to 2 that will fit and am looking for opinions as to which might be the better frame.
So Dixie Flyer vs Look 875 Madison.
I'm currently leaning towards the Look solely based on warranty/crash protection. Really like the look of the DF though.
Any info on either bike would be appreciated. Thanks.
I'm looking into picking up a new frame for next year, due to my current frame being a bit small, as in I can't fit it within uci regs for mass start (I may keep that frame for tt only). I expect to focus on mostly Sprint events as they seem to suit me. Due to being 6' 3" with kinda long arms I need a long bike that's not obscenely expensive. I've narrowed it down to 2 that will fit and am looking for opinions as to which might be the better frame.
So Dixie Flyer vs Look 875 Madison.
I'm currently leaning towards the Look solely based on warranty/crash protection. Really like the look of the DF though.
Any info on either bike would be appreciated. Thanks.
#5686
Newbie cyclist
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 29
Bikes: Tarmac SL6, Neilpryde Bayamo, Dolan TC1
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I see a lot of posters speak very highly of the dura ace 7600 hubs, but don't really know exactly why. What are the advantages of dura ace hubs over something like the formula hubs? Is it to do with performance or is it more to do with build quality etc? Thanks
#5687
Senior Member
Some of it is build quality. Some of it is that they are approved "NJS" (which people often equate to durability, although that's not particularly true)
Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.
Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.
Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
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#5689
Senior Member
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So I'm starting to accumulate some bigger chainrings (55+) but running into the issue of not having a good way to transport them. My old reliable chainring/cog bag won't take anything that big. Would prefer not to have them floating free in my big bag :/
Thoughts/Suggestions?
Thoughts/Suggestions?
I have the regular BLS bag and can fit 7 rings in there, but it's tight. Supposedly it will fit a 60, but I don't think I'd be able to double up rings in the slots like I do with a 60. The larger BLS bag also fits 8 rings.
Nothing. Go with Formula. My 7600 hubs have been a PIA. Should never have bought them used.
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#5690
Elitist
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For worry-free use, use sealed hubs, as topflightpro suggests.
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#5691
Full Member
Some of it is build quality. Some of it is that they are approved "NJS" (which people often equate to durability, although that's not particularly true)
Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.
Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.
Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
#5692
Newbie cyclist
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 29
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Some of it is build quality. Some of it is that they are approved "NJS" (which people often equate to durability, although that's not particularly true)
Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.
Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
Maybe the biggest difference is that the 7600 are "tuneable" for track (I've done it for some people, getting rid of the seals, using very low friction grease, "better" ball bearings, adjusting the "tightness") which is much harder to do on a sealed cartridge bearing. It's also not something I'd recommend doing unless you were doing it for one big race where every fraction of a second mattered.
Both are going to be fine. (If they are used 7600 hubs however previous user wear is something to be aware of... worn cups/cones/bearings can be expensive to fix) Modern times for most people, sealed cartridge is just easier to live with.
Yeah, my DA 7600 hubs were nice when new. But, they require maintenance and tuning after a couple of years. When they get a lot of miles on them or the grip nuts get mashed-down, the tolerances get wonky and you'll have a number of issues.
For worry-free use, use sealed hubs, as topflightpro suggests.
For worry-free use, use sealed hubs, as topflightpro suggests.
#5696
Senior Member
Thanks. I did order a pair. I also found a guy on eBay selling 3d printed aero plugs for the base bar.
#5697
Senior Member
Yeah, my DA 7600 hubs were nice when new. But, they require maintenance and tuning after a couple of years. When they get a lot of miles on them or the grip nuts get mashed-down, the tolerances get wonky and you'll have a number of issues.
For worry-free use, use sealed hubs, as topflightpro suggests.
For worry-free use, use sealed hubs, as topflightpro suggests.
#5698
Senior Member
What's the difference between the Origin and Science Track SRM Power Meters? I use a Power Control 7 computer.
#5699
Senior Member
- Available Crankarm lengths (more "arms" on the science and you can buy shorter arms, but you get the look style adjustable 170/172/175 on the origin)
- Different Bottom Bracket Standard
- +/- 1% accuracy on the Origin vs. .5% Science
- Maybe the biggest, you can recharge the Origin, vs having to send the science off to SRM to have the battery changed (or hacking / soldering a new battery in yourself)
If the crankarm length and Q-factor will work with the Origin, it's a lot easier to live with vs. the Science.
*Something random I noticed perusing SRM's site lately is that they now offer a "rechargeable battery" upgrade to existing SRM's, including the track models. A bit pricey, but so is shipping your SRM off every year or so.
#5700
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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I sent one of my SRMs in a couple weeks ago for a new battery. They offered to switch me to rechargable for $450. I opted to just go with the batter replacement and leave it as is.