Disk Brakes
#27
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I only use rim brakes, so I don’t face this issue.
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....other than every time you brake when they are wet.
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My experience with bicycle disc brakes is minimal, but with solid rotor discs on cars or motorcycles, I have seen warping and cracking when they get too worn. As a bicycle disc is thinner and smaller, I would suspect the same would be possible.
To me, the brakes are that one piece of equipment that is frequently a very important factor in whether you are injured of killed if they do not work as intended. I make sure I know what the wear limits are and what the signs of needing to be serviced or replaced are for the brakes on my bicycles and my vehicles. I do not wait for them to fail or wear to the point of damaging the rotors (or rim). It is not a difficult measurement to take, especially since on a bicycle it is out in the clear and not behind a wheel. Being knowledgeable helps you know when to replace the pads or rotors, AND then to do it yourself or take it to the shop before it gets real expensive. It can also prevents surprises at the shop.
To me, the brakes are that one piece of equipment that is frequently a very important factor in whether you are injured of killed if they do not work as intended. I make sure I know what the wear limits are and what the signs of needing to be serviced or replaced are for the brakes on my bicycles and my vehicles. I do not wait for them to fail or wear to the point of damaging the rotors (or rim). It is not a difficult measurement to take, especially since on a bicycle it is out in the clear and not behind a wheel. Being knowledgeable helps you know when to replace the pads or rotors, AND then to do it yourself or take it to the shop before it gets real expensive. It can also prevents surprises at the shop.
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It doesn't rain much here and I have ridden in rain with no problems, tandem, roadie and MTB. I did a 4500 ft descent (21 miles of switchbacks) on a mountain road on my roadie in pouring rain with no brake issues. Had more "chain" issues going through river crossings on my mtb than any kind of V brake/rim problems.
Did Not Die = No Issues.
Yes, I too used rim brakes in wet, steep mountainous terrain and wet crossings for years and lived to talk about it. I am overall fine with a rim brake bike (I own several and even occasionally trail ride on one), but these are brakes, not family members. I don't get all bothered when the downsides are pointed out. I am not about to kid myself about braking in the wet. The braking is much less predictable before the rim is clear of water. But like so many other things, you don't really notice some issues until they are gone.
Look, I was responding to an off-topic post that was utterly irrelevant to the thread topic. Someone had no useful advice or insight about the OPs question about disc brakes, so instead they virtue signal about not using them, hoping to have a rim vs disc debate. And I made the mistake of feeding the troll. My bad.
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Which brakes, which rotors, and which pads are you using? The last two make a HUGE difference.
Last edited by Kapusta; 06-03-21 at 08:38 AM.
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That's now what I wrote. I wrote that I have had no issues. I then asked whether I am dead, wondering if death by rim brake was an issue I encountered without knowing it. However, the two are not are not inextricably linked.
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Which brakes, which rotors, and which pads are you using? The last two make a HUGE difference.
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Paul Klamper Brakes: Kool Stop Avid Elixer SRAM MTB XX Sintered Metal Compound #KS-D296S pads. Hope 180mm front rotor. Magura Storm 203mm rotor rear. The front is the problem. It over heats. I just put a Magura ebike disk on the front and Kool Stop ceramic pads. I have to bed them in then I will see if there is improvement.
Interested to see how the new rotor works. Are these the 220mm ones? I would think they would handle the heat much better than the 180s.
I was going to suggest sintered pads, but you already tried those. I've never used ceramic. Interested to know how they work. I understand they work very well when hot, but don't last very long and chew up rotors.
Last edited by Kapusta; 06-03-21 at 11:15 AM.
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I thought all situations are "did not die" situations up until one actually dies.
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Now cantilever brakes on a tandem, that's another story. Terrible stopping power but still, not even close to a "did not die" situation. More like a "we need to get rid of this ****" !!!!
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Interested to see how the new rotor works. Are these the 220mm ones? I would think they would handle the heat much better than the 180s.
I have seen some videos of the pros having locked up brakes. Mums is the word as to why this happened. There are some disk rotors that have an aluminum core with a thin outer metal braking surface. I have heard that the aluminum sometimes starts to melt. I believe some of these problems occurred because of under engineering. This isn't the industries first try at disk brakes for bicycles. I believe they can do better with the right motivation.