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Old 07-16-21, 11:38 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Have you tried cranking up the force/pressure, then just leaving it that way for a while? I've found that screw-type tie rod separator tools often work when the pressure can be sustained over time. No direct experience with this with cotters, but the principle may apply.
thats exactly what im doing right now! I was a diesel tech for 6.5 years so im trying my best to use my mechanic knowledge but looking for more bike specific info lol
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Old 07-16-21, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by onyerleft
If you were a diesel tech then I'm sure you will succeed, somehow.
o itll come out eventually. I just dont want to ruin any thing as id like to keep it as original as possible.
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Old 07-24-21, 08:20 AM
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Update. finally got the cranks off. frame and fork are soaking in a bath right now for rust removal. had to use some heat and an air hammer. even then it had a hard time coming out. used to have these issues with keepers getting seized in the axles of busses when doing kingpins ( same interference tapered style fit). Any how its all apart and I need to source three things. headset, bottom bracket and the pins for the cranks. bearings are shot in both headset and bottom bracket. Any recommendations as to where to start my search? thanks again guys! I'm sure I'll have more questions regarding hub overhaul and operation. thanks again.
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Old 07-24-21, 10:29 AM
  #29  
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thank you for this update

good to read of the progress you are making

will look forward to seeing frame and fork when they emerge from the soup - interesting to see how much of the gold colour will reappear...

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wedgebolts -

for bicycle cranksets these come in three diameters: 8.5mm, 9.0mm & 9.5mm (3/8")

Germany is one of the nations where more than one size is used, most cycle manufacturing nations employ one diameter only

so you will want to check what came out to get good fitting replacements

the pins also vary in their heaviness of cut; most assemblies employ a "medium" cut but there are some German ones which employ a "light" cut

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the headset is BSC ("English") thread of 1" pitch diameter and 24 TPI
would expect head cups to be of 30.0mm diameter, although they could be of 30.2mm
I.D. of fork crown race 27.0mm

actual national origin of replacement does not matter so long as dimensions are correct

ball size 5/32"

another variable is "stack height", i.e. how much vertical space the assembly takes up on the steerer, it is likely that this figure for the OEM set is around 35mm

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Old 07-24-21, 10:50 AM
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Thank you soo much for the reply! Any info on the crankset bb? Any preferred places to shop? Thanks! Excited to see how it turns out.
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Old 07-24-21, 11:31 AM
  #31  
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bottom bracket thread is BSC ("English"), also now known as ISO

pitch diameter is 1 3/8" and thread pitch is 24TPI
drive side left hand threaded, non-drive side right hand threaded

spindle diameter is 5/8" / 15.8mm

bottom bracket shell width is 68mm (nominal)

ball size 1/4" - eleven used per side

possible that original bottom bracket spindle may show some helpful marking on its centre section

if assembly of actual german manufacture it is unlikely to be so marked however

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Last edited by juvela; 07-24-21 at 12:37 PM. Reason: addition
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