Old School Seat Post...
06-19-21, 09:50 PM
#26
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I don't even bother with those old-school steel type seatposts that attach to the saddle, and then the post. They're usually the first thing to go into the donation box, along with kickstands, if any. Hate 'em both like the plague.
Having said that, I recently purchased what must be (to me anyway) the most ridiculous and frustrating seatpost ever, one of the few in 26.4mm I could find that didn't cost a fortune: the Avocet spring-loaded seatpost. Actually, beyond just being ridiculous and frustrating, I think this thing has issues: stripped threading on one of the bolts, and one bolt is too short. From others I have seen online, both bolts should be the same length.
Having said that, I recently purchased what must be (to me anyway) the most ridiculous and frustrating seatpost ever, one of the few in 26.4mm I could find that didn't cost a fortune: the Avocet spring-loaded seatpost. Actually, beyond just being ridiculous and frustrating, I think this thing has issues: stripped threading on one of the bolts, and one bolt is too short. From others I have seen online, both bolts should be the same length.
06-19-21, 10:12 PM
#27
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My first road bike had the Ideale post clamp.
I could use another now...
till I find one I will use a Campagnolo.
I could use another now...
till I find one I will use a Campagnolo.
06-20-21, 06:01 AM
#28
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....I have several of those, because they happened to be the only ones I could find in an odd diameter. Apparently they made them in just about every diameter there was at the time. But they are famous for being problematic. Mostly, I have always thought highly of Avocet products, but these were an exception. The saddles were much better than the posts.
As I'm not concerned about originality or period correctness on the PX10 for which I bought it, I'm replacing the Avocet (which was to replace the original Simplex steel post), I'm going with the Dajia Cycleworks 1b Seatpost available at Velo Orange, in 26.4mm.
06-20-21, 09:59 AM
#29
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BTW, the Nitto S83 is just as secure and infinitely adjustable, but really easy to set up because the bolts are allen bolts accessed from the bottom of the post - no clearance issues at all. Unfortunately, I have never seen them available in anything other than 27.2 or 26.8. Rivendell sells them here. Others do, too..
10 mm wrench about 6-1/4" or 160 mm long
.[/QUOTE]
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Last edited by bikingshearer; 06-21-21 at 12:27 AM.
06-20-21, 10:41 AM
#30
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Campy two-bolt seatposts can be easy to work with:
Begin by standing the bike on the floor with inflated tires (saves saddle angle guesswork compared to adjusting the saddle angle with the bike elevated off the floor).
Clean and grease both bolts as well as the cylindrical captive nuts and install them in the seatpost, leaving the bolts very loose.
Install the saddle, slide it fully forward, and use a wrench or your fingers to tighten the front bolt until pressing the top of the back of the saddle with the heel of your hand brings the saddle to within a degree or two of being level.
Center the saddle on the seatpost.
Tighten the rear bolt (with a wrench).
If the angle of the saddle is not satisfactory, loosen the rear bolt, slide the saddle forward, turn the front bolt (with wrench or fingers) a half-turn or so, reposition the saddle, and tighten the rear bolt.
[Edit] You may have to repeat the last step once or twice, but the whole process takes less time than typing this out did.
Begin by standing the bike on the floor with inflated tires (saves saddle angle guesswork compared to adjusting the saddle angle with the bike elevated off the floor).
Clean and grease both bolts as well as the cylindrical captive nuts and install them in the seatpost, leaving the bolts very loose.
Install the saddle, slide it fully forward, and use a wrench or your fingers to tighten the front bolt until pressing the top of the back of the saddle with the heel of your hand brings the saddle to within a degree or two of being level.
Center the saddle on the seatpost.
Tighten the rear bolt (with a wrench).
If the angle of the saddle is not satisfactory, loosen the rear bolt, slide the saddle forward, turn the front bolt (with wrench or fingers) a half-turn or so, reposition the saddle, and tighten the rear bolt.
[Edit] You may have to repeat the last step once or twice, but the whole process takes less time than typing this out did.
Last edited by Trakhak; 06-20-21 at 10:47 AM.
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06-20-21, 12:12 PM
#31
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Cheap, rusty, abused and overtightened "old school" seat clamps are a problem.
NOS Ideale or new Brooks seat clamps work fine. Even old used Brooks and Ideale seat clamps are usually salvageable if you degrease them then de-rust in vinegar.
Otherwise the 2 bolt Campy seat post.
Reid
NOS Ideale or new Brooks seat clamps work fine. Even old used Brooks and Ideale seat clamps are usually salvageable if you degrease them then de-rust in vinegar.
Otherwise the 2 bolt Campy seat post.
Reid
06-20-21, 06:00 PM
#32
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Two bolt Campy SP
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-91...33681226&psc=1
This is the tool you seek, grasshopper.
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-91...33681226&psc=1
This is the tool you seek, grasshopper.
06-21-21, 12:32 AM
#33
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Two bolt Campy SP
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-91...33681226&psc=1
This is the tool you seek, grasshopper.
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-91...33681226&psc=1
This is the tool you seek, grasshopper.
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06-21-21, 01:24 AM
#34
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