Compact Handlebar Question
#26
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The 56R has 572mm of stack and 397mm of reach.
The 56T has 610mm of stack and 385mm of reach.
So the OP is comparing the 54T frame size with the 56T frame size.
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I hope the OP leaned something, here.
Last edited by Kapusta; 02-03-22 at 04:23 PM.
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edit: ok I crunched the numbers and if I did it correctly, the reach should be about 391-392.
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Last edited by urbanknight; 02-03-22 at 05:31 PM.
#29
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Edit: I just saw your post above. You think the company made an error? Strange because they are emailing with me and quoted the same 385mm for the 56T in those emails.
#30
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I have a curve in my spine, both top and bottom of the spine. Not left right but front to back. It's called hyperlordoris and hyperkyphosis if anyone is interested. But anyway, this effectively takes a few inches off my torso. I'd probably be 5'11 without these curves. So everyone has different anatomy. The curves also make flexibility an issue. This is why I want to ride upright. I'm 162lbs and can cycle 100 miles. I don't consider myself unfit. But I do lack some flexibility due to the mentioned issues. It's my right to want to be upright!
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Sorry I wasn't clear. I'm saying the published specs contain the typo. Considering the difference in TT lengths as well as the ST angles and HT angles, having only a 2mm difference in reach sounds mathematically impossible. I suspect the company meant (edit: see below) for the 56T.
edit: ok I crunched the numbers and if I did it correctly, the reach should be about 391-392.
edit: ok I crunched the numbers and if I did it correctly, the reach should be about 391-392.
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The top tube is 13mm longer but with an extra 0.5 degree more laid back seatpost.
The reach should be calculated at the same height as the theoretical top tube, 560mm up the seat tube from the BB*
Basic geometry calculations say that eats up 4.8mm of the extra top tube length, leaving 8.2mm to be taken up at the front
*Note that this does not account for the fact that your seat height is relative to the BB. not the top of the seat tube, but that only accounts for another 0.1mm
Any actual experts on frame geometry wanna tell me if I'm right or wrong?
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Typos happen, but it seems odd for the typo to stay for multiple years and models as this is a smaller brand that is very heavy on informational materials. They have been very involved in releasing frame details thru the years and they clearly rely on the nerd side of things as a marketing approach. I think they are on the 3rd version of this frame(I own a v1) and the geometry has not changed. You would think someone in the last few years would have complained.
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I am another fan of adjusting reach with the stem, not the bars. I pick bars for hand comfort. I want contact points that are right on for wrist angle and the right relationship between lever position, tops and drops. Those put the bar reach, drop and curvature shape in a narrow range. Stems are an easy to change, systematically variable way to put those bars just where I want them.
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My logic was if I go to a 70mm stem the handling would become poor, and my knees would get closer to the bars themselves. So by using the bars for a 10mm reduction, I'd get that reach without the negative effects.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
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My logic was if I go to a 70mm stem the handling would become poor, and my knees would get closer to the bars themselves. So by using the bars for a 10mm reduction, I'd get that reach without the negative effects.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
Are you actually worried about hitting your knees on the tops of the bar?
Last edited by Kapusta; 02-05-22 at 07:07 AM.
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My logic was if I go to a 70mm stem the handling would become poor, and my knees would get closer to the bars themselves. So by using the bars for a 10mm reduction, I'd get that reach without the negative effects.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
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My logic was if I go to a 70mm stem the handling would become poor, and my knees would get closer to the bars themselves. So by using the bars for a 10mm reduction, I'd get that reach without the negative effects.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
Maybe I'm wrong, though. It would be nicer to get the hoods closer since I have relatively small hands, and without getting the bar itself closer to my knees.
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#40
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The saddle fore/aft position should not be used to reduce reach. If you're too far forward relative to the crank, it will put too much weight on your hands.
Even though I have a short torso, I use either a 25 or 32mm setback post. If you're properly balanced, you should be able to hover your hands over the brake hoods, without too much effort. Improper balance over the saddle is often what leads riders down the path to lots of spacers and a high rise stem. The more upright position improves the balance, but it's just making up for the wrong saddle position.
The OP would be wise to see a knowledgeable fitter. Here's a link to someone who knows what he's doing.
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...or-road-bikes/
Keep in mind that reach can only be compared properly at ONE stack height. If you're comparing two frames that have a 20mm difference in stack, then reduce the reach of the smaller frame by 6mm, assuming that 20mm of spacer would be used to create the same stack on both frames. When a big stack of spacers are used, you're reducing both the drop and the reach to the bars.
Even though I have a short torso, I use either a 25 or 32mm setback post. If you're properly balanced, you should be able to hover your hands over the brake hoods, without too much effort. Improper balance over the saddle is often what leads riders down the path to lots of spacers and a high rise stem. The more upright position improves the balance, but it's just making up for the wrong saddle position.
The OP would be wise to see a knowledgeable fitter. Here's a link to someone who knows what he's doing.
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...or-road-bikes/
Keep in mind that reach can only be compared properly at ONE stack height. If you're comparing two frames that have a 20mm difference in stack, then reduce the reach of the smaller frame by 6mm, assuming that 20mm of spacer would be used to create the same stack on both frames. When a big stack of spacers are used, you're reducing both the drop and the reach to the bars.
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Thanks. It all makes sense now.
Alright, I got off my lazy @#$ and did some math. It ranges from 5.5 to 6.2 from 74 to 72 degree STA, so 6mm is a good rule of thumb.
Alright, I got off my lazy @#$ and did some math. It ranges from 5.5 to 6.2 from 74 to 72 degree STA, so 6mm is a good rule of thumb.
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Last edited by urbanknight; 02-05-22 at 01:15 PM.
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If you're properly balanced, you should be able to hover your hands over the brake hoods, without too much effort. Improper balance over the saddle is often what leads riders down the path to lots of spacers and a high rise stem. The more upright position improves the balance, but it's just making up for thewrong saddle position.
.
.
Last edited by Kapusta; 02-05-22 at 08:53 PM.
#46
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So I had a proper fitting this weekend, and he noted the seat post has a 20mm setback. I didn't realize this. He suggested getting a 0 setback post to get my knee more above the pedals, and that it would have the added benefit of reducing reach, but for now we just moved the saddle forward 15 until I get a new one. The 80mm stem surprisingly felt better than 70mm. The 90mm the bike came with is just a bit too long for the more upright/touring position I want to ride in. I'm going to take it for a 20 mile spin today and see how it does, then build up distance in this new position over the coming weeks. Going to go to my local bike shop and try their saddle testing program, too, because mine is 14cm, and my sit bones are 14.5cm. So ideally I think I'd want a 15cm saddle. Maybe some light at the end of the tunnel. We will see!
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Fort,
Not sure how much you've been riding, but here's my recent experience with bike fit; re-started riding six months ago after retiring, and totally required an upright position.
After 6 months of riding 5-7 hrs a week, my flexibility improved so much my comfort position changed significantly. So keep all your old parts 😉.
Not sure how much you've been riding, but here's my recent experience with bike fit; re-started riding six months ago after retiring, and totally required an upright position.
After 6 months of riding 5-7 hrs a week, my flexibility improved so much my comfort position changed significantly. So keep all your old parts 😉.
#48
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Fort,
Not sure how much you've been riding, but here's my recent experience with bike fit; re-started riding six months ago after retiring, and totally required an upright position.
After 6 months of riding 5-7 hrs a week, my flexibility improved so much my comfort position changed significantly. So keep all your old parts 😉.
Not sure how much you've been riding, but here's my recent experience with bike fit; re-started riding six months ago after retiring, and totally required an upright position.
After 6 months of riding 5-7 hrs a week, my flexibility improved so much my comfort position changed significantly. So keep all your old parts 😉.
I've biked about 800 miles this winter. Just 25 mile maintenance rides to stay in shape. Usually at least 2 rides per week.
#50
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So I had a proper fitting this weekend, and he noted the seat post has a 20mm setback. I didn't realize this. He suggested getting a 0 setback post to get my knee more above the pedals, and that it would have the added benefit of reducing reach, but for now we just moved the saddle forward 15 until I get a new one. The 80mm stem surprisingly felt better than 70mm. The 90mm the bike came with is just a bit too long for the more upright/touring position I want to ride in. I'm going to take it for a 20 mile spin today and see how it does, then build up distance in this new position over the coming weeks. Going to go to my local bike shop and try their saddle testing program, too, because mine is 14cm, and my sit bones are 14.5cm. So ideally I think I'd want a 15cm saddle. Maybe some light at the end of the tunnel. We will see!