Kanat

Thank you for answer, your information is very important for me) I thought that this bike was sold only in Japan, beacouse i could not find enaught info about it, only one lot in japanese auction. I think this bike was not so popular.

Kanat

When i saw an offer for sale, i want only look, but name Maruishi was intersted me. I tried to find any info about this bike and company. When i met whith seller and saw on bike "Cr-Mo tripple butted frame" i immediately decided to byu it)

Kanat

And i was surprised by drop bar handlebar. I think it was no changed. But what is the reason of that handle bar and oval chainrings on city bike?)

Kanat

Oh, i find some pages on forum, my Maruishi is a touring bike, i like it)

T-Mar

This would not be considered a touring bicycle for its era, at least not in North America. Touring bicycles are designed to carry heavy loads over long distances and trips of multiple days. During the era in question, they typically featured very wide range gearing, cantilever brakesets and lots of amenities to carry heavy loads over long distances, in all types of weather,


Wide gearing was typically accomplished using a triple crankset with a wide range freewheel or cassette on the rear wheel. While your bicycle has a triple crankset, the free wheel is not as wide as I would expect on a touring bicycle. To me, the gearing is more what I what expect on a light duty, recreational bicycle, used by a casual cyclist. Non-round chanrings enjoyed a surge in popularity after 1983, when Shimano introduced their Bio-Pace chainrings. They were thought to be more efficient and less strenuous on the knees. They were spec'd on most levels and types of bicycles, with the notable exception of high end racing bicycles. Your bicycle has a crankset with a integral disc. These were generally spec'd on lower end, city bicycles, where the extra weight was not a concern and the disc decreased the probability of pant legs getting shredded by the chain and or chainring teeth. Touring cyclists typically ride in shorts, so this was not an issue.


The brakes on your bicycle are an inexpensive side -pull, caliper style brake. Touring bicycles of this era typically used cantilever brakes, which provide more stopping power and clearance. for mudguards and wider tyres.


While you bicycle has some amenities found on touring bicycles there are not as many as I would expect for the era. For instance, there is only one set of bosses for a single water bottle. Touring bicycles of the era typically had provisions to carry at least two bottles and generally three, as you didn't want to stopping every couple of hours to find a place refill your water bottle. While it can accommodate a front rack, there are no seat stay eyelets for mounting a rear rack. Most touring bicycles carrying most of their load on the rear. Separate eyelets on the seat stays are desirable to provide a stable rack mount. By this time, most front touring racks were mounted lower, on the fork blades to provide a lower centre of gravity. The high mount rack on your bicycle is an older style that was often carried over onto city bicycles, to allow for carrying a light load for commuting and running errands. Your bicycle is also fitted with wheels having axle nuts. Touring bicycles typically used quick release wheels to facilitate flat repair and not having to carry an extra tool just to remove and install the wheels.


I'm not seeing a touring bicycle, though that definition is somewhat flexible. With the exception of the triple butted CrMo frame, everything seems to be entry level and it's not the type of bicycle I'd take on a multi-day ride with heavy load. At best, I might adventure an hour or so into the countryside. To me, it seems more appropriate for commuting, running errands and light duty, recreational riding.

Kanat

Yes, i am agree with you. This bike only for ligth touring, ultra light bike packing)

Kanat

Yesterday I was in a flower shop and I saw an old Japanese bicycle. Of the inscriptions, I found only the frame number, everything else is damaged and painted over. Tires 26 1 3/8", bridgestone, made in japan. Suddenly it's a coincidence and he is also Maruishi) I hope)

Kanat

EH09122

Kanat

Hello my friends)

I find number 753 at the bottom of crank on my Maruishi bike. Serial number is on seat downtube, but what does mean 753 number? Maybe it is steel grade Reynolds 753? Thanks a lot for any information



753

Kanat

Hello everyone
I found sticker and I think it's about grade of steel, I think it means Reynolds 753A, and what do you think?
Dimensions of OD pipes are in inches, 1" top pipe, 1 1/8 other.
Thanks)

R753A

T-Mar

[QUOTE=Kanat;22645408]Hello everyone
I found sticker and I think it's about grade of steel, I think it means Reynolds 753A, and what do you think?
Dimensions of OD pipes are in inches, 1" top pipe, 1 1/8 other.
Thanks{/QUOTE]

In this case, the 753 and 753A markings have nothing to do with the tubing grade. The 1" and 1-1-1/8" outer diameters were standard, imperial, tube dimensions during the era in question. If you want to know the grade of tubing,baring an actual decal, the seat post diameter is the best indicator.

Kanat

[QUOTE=T-Mar;22645424]Thanks a lot for your help)
OD saddle tube is 26.8mm and i did collage with other photos.

T-Mar

The seat post is about 3 sizes too small for a Reynolds 753 frame. However, it is in the range for a CrMo tubeset. Given the era and level of the components, it is likely one of the more economical, seamed tubesets that were available. Everything considered, I wouldn't be surprised if the forks and stays are a cost concession and employ a lower grade steel.

The amount of deviation in the saddle's date code from that on the seat post and the frame's serial number, suggests that it has been replaced.

Kanat

T-Mar, thank you so much for information about this bike

Catnap 

Here's a Japan-only Maruishi RE-C-A touring / camping bike that I restored and just recently sold. Full article with the history and catalog, here: https://djcatnap.com/maruishi-empero...-touring-bike/

prairiepedaler

I just own a Maruishi frame, awaiting paint whenever I can get around to the time to do it.

Who rides the Maruishi MT18?

rgvg

I have a line on this one but I can't go see it till Monday. Yes, the lack of a front wheel in a very high bike theft city concerns me. I'm not a good judge of character but I'm hoping it's legit. I haven't seen a lot of info on Maruishis so I'm guessing this is sometime in the late 80's to 90's, based on the pictures in this thread. Particularly the one where there's a similar paint scheme (except for the white rear socks) and triathlon type pics on the top tube.

prairiepedaler

Hey RG, go nab it and do tell! I know I would if it were priced right and gargantuan.

rgvg

Okay I went to pick it up. Nothing special and the kangaroo count is unfortunately zero.
Serial starts with H so I'm thinking 1988 manufacture. Blue cr-mo sticker so likely straight gauge cr-mo.
Only 1 set bottle boss, 27" wheels. Front and rear dropout eyelets, mid fork bosses, triple crank.
I'd say a solid lower end touring bike. Seat tube is about 51 ctt, top tube is 54 ctc.

The headset is weird. It has no flats so I'm not sure how to get it undone. Tange x-unique or unique-x? It feels plasticky or rubbery. If anybody has tips on how to get it off, let me know...

I'll clean it up and take better pics when I get a chance, but I'm not in a hurry though.

rgvg

I googled it and the headset is covered by a cap. So it just slides off. I suppose what makes it "unique" is that the cap apparently came in different colors. It might not be easily replaceable. There are not enough threads on the fork to just add a top nut.

The derailleurs are Shimano SIS so it is indexed, 6 cogs on the rear. The cranks are Sugino VP.

madpogue 

I'm guessing this is the successor to the lower-level (TA15) of the TourAce series; higher-end would've probably had a 40-spoke rear, and definitely DB tubes. Still, being one of the last of the Japan canti tourers; I wouldn't kick it out of bed.

Interesting that they hung onto non-aero brake levers and half-step-plus-granny gearing all the way up to 1988.

mountaindave 

That could easily become a super-commuter with the mid-fork eyelets allowing for an easy to mount front rack. 700c conversion should be doable too, making room for fatter tires or fenders. She’s a nice bike, but you also wouldn’t feel terrible if something happened to it.

nice find!

prairiepedaler

Glad you bagged it. It is amazing they only put one set of bottle bosses on a touring bike. I mean, they bothered with a pump peg!

That headset is "fashionable". Looks like a knurled texture to be grabbed by hand. Hmmm. At least if it's rubbery it might have prevented water leakage and corrosion.

Billydog

Here'a Mine...

nishikiwhat

Hi everyone, great looking bikes!

I got tipped off on the Nishiki thread that I may have purchased a Maruishi (was sold as a Nishiki), wondering if someone here has some extra info.

It's been stripped and painted over, so I can't say for sure what it is, but it came with:
Shimano 105 1050 groupset
Shimano 105 headset
Shimano 105 crankset with 2x Biopace oval rings
Araya 700c rims and 105 hubs
The seat tube (not the BB) has the serial number stamped on the bottom part - GS71399
The fork (hopefully it's the original one) has "Ishiwata" stamped on the steerer tube

Any information would be very much appreciated!