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Wheel truing stand

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Old 08-05-23, 03:46 PM
  #26  
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Hey all, in the distant past when I was riding, wheel truing was always done on the bike. But now that I’m several decades older, I want the convenience of a dedicated truing stand. I recently bought a really nice used bike. I got one of those spoke tension meters just to check everything. In doing the tension check on the front wheel I noticed that one of the spokes was non-original - it was round and the other spokes were bladed. And I noticed that one of the original bladed spokes was a little buggered up. So I am about to replace both spokes and this is why I’m asking for advice on a truing stand. Thanks to all that have replied!
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Old 08-05-23, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by KCT1986
If you have more consistent tensions now, the dish is probably better.
Yes, seems I fixed things through the process. Dish is less than 1mm (~ 1/32") difference between sides.
I'd kind of forgotten about the dish parameter.

Just did my back wheel (rim brake). It was better than the front, no runout radially and less than a mm sideways but the non drive side spokes varied all over the place between 12 and 19 on the tension tool.

There's a real difference between sides : drive side is at 23 all spokes, but the far side is now all at 18 and feels pretty loose compared to the drive side. I can't tighten it up more without making the dishing worse (it's just a bit less than a mm).

I must say, I really enjoy truing wheels...
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Old 08-05-23, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Biker Pete
So I am about to replace both spokes and this is why I’m asking for advice on a truing stand. Thanks to all that have replied!
A truing stand is really great, whichever setup you use (mine's really ugly).
Place it on a high enough table/bench so you can stand in front of it and have things at a good height.
I tied my spoke wrench to a piece of string around my wrist so I can just let go of it each time I mesure the tension in a spoke (and write it down).
A little flick and it's back in my hand.
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Old 08-05-23, 08:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Paul_P
Yes, seems I fixed things through the process. Dish is less than 1mm (~ 1/32") difference between sides.
I'd kind of forgotten about the dish parameter.

Just did my back wheel (rim brake). It was better than the front, no runout radially and less than a mm sideways but the non drive side spokes varied all over the place between 12 and 19 on the tension tool.

There's a real difference between sides : drive side is at 23 all spokes, but the far side is now all at 18 and feels pretty loose compared to the drive side. I can't tighten it up more without making the dishing worse (it's just a bit less than a mm).

I must say, I really enjoy truing wheels...
For the rear your left / right variance sounds about what is common for a MTB wheel. The spokes on individual sides are balanced which is a good sign.
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Old 08-05-23, 10:56 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Paul_P
.....

There's a real difference between sides : drive side is at 23 all spokes, but the far side is now all at 18 and feels pretty loose compared to the drive side. I can't tighten it up more without making the dishing worse (it's just a bit less than a mm).....
The ratio between drive side and NDS tensions on dished wheels is cut in stone, and not within your control.

It's the same as the ratio of DS and NDS cenrter to fange distance, after allowing for small factors like rim hole offset either zigzag or all to one same side.
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Old 08-06-23, 04:23 AM
  #31  
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A Unior 1688 portable stand would suit you. They retail for $180 but I see Cambria bike has just one left, and ending today you get a 20% discount off one item. $144. If this is "too much" then please clarify how you are willing to spend.
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