Wheel truing stand
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hey all, in the distant past when I was riding, wheel truing was always done on the bike. But now that I’m several decades older, I want the convenience of a dedicated truing stand. I recently bought a really nice used bike. I got one of those spoke tension meters just to check everything. In doing the tension check on the front wheel I noticed that one of the spokes was non-original - it was round and the other spokes were bladed. And I noticed that one of the original bladed spokes was a little buggered up. So I am about to replace both spokes and this is why I’m asking for advice on a truing stand. Thanks to all that have replied!
#27
Junior Member
Yes, seems I fixed things through the process. Dish is less than 1mm (~ 1/32") difference between sides.
I'd kind of forgotten about the dish parameter.
Just did my back wheel (rim brake). It was better than the front, no runout radially and less than a mm sideways but the non drive side spokes varied all over the place between 12 and 19 on the tension tool.
There's a real difference between sides : drive side is at 23 all spokes, but the far side is now all at 18 and feels pretty loose compared to the drive side. I can't tighten it up more without making the dishing worse (it's just a bit less than a mm).
I must say, I really enjoy truing wheels...
I'd kind of forgotten about the dish parameter.
Just did my back wheel (rim brake). It was better than the front, no runout radially and less than a mm sideways but the non drive side spokes varied all over the place between 12 and 19 on the tension tool.
There's a real difference between sides : drive side is at 23 all spokes, but the far side is now all at 18 and feels pretty loose compared to the drive side. I can't tighten it up more without making the dishing worse (it's just a bit less than a mm).
I must say, I really enjoy truing wheels...
#28
Junior Member
Place it on a high enough table/bench so you can stand in front of it and have things at a good height.
I tied my spoke wrench to a piece of string around my wrist so I can just let go of it each time I mesure the tension in a spoke (and write it down).
A little flick and it's back in my hand.
Likes For Paul_P:
#29
Senior Member
Yes, seems I fixed things through the process. Dish is less than 1mm (~ 1/32") difference between sides.
I'd kind of forgotten about the dish parameter.
Just did my back wheel (rim brake). It was better than the front, no runout radially and less than a mm sideways but the non drive side spokes varied all over the place between 12 and 19 on the tension tool.
There's a real difference between sides : drive side is at 23 all spokes, but the far side is now all at 18 and feels pretty loose compared to the drive side. I can't tighten it up more without making the dishing worse (it's just a bit less than a mm).
I must say, I really enjoy truing wheels...
I'd kind of forgotten about the dish parameter.
Just did my back wheel (rim brake). It was better than the front, no runout radially and less than a mm sideways but the non drive side spokes varied all over the place between 12 and 19 on the tension tool.
There's a real difference between sides : drive side is at 23 all spokes, but the far side is now all at 18 and feels pretty loose compared to the drive side. I can't tighten it up more without making the dishing worse (it's just a bit less than a mm).
I must say, I really enjoy truing wheels...
#30
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It's the same as the ratio of DS and NDS cenrter to fange distance, after allowing for small factors like rim hole offset either zigzag or all to one same side.
#31
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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A Unior 1688 portable stand would suit you. They retail for $180 but I see Cambria bike has just one left, and ending today you get a 20% discount off one item. $144. If this is "too much" then please clarify how you are willing to spend.