Finally - Motobecane Grand Record restomod
#26
aka Tom Reingold
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Yes, I was the bike guy in South Orange and Maplewood for a few years. I even taught riding and repair classes. Fun times.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#27
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This is gorgeous. I love the general headset and seat tube panel scheme of these old Motobecanes, and it pleases me to see that you kept it. I've refinished a Grand Record and a Grand Jubilé and in both cases kept the original contrasting color scheme while choosing different colors. The ones you picked look great.
I also want to say the lug lining looks fantastic. Nice touch!
I also want to say the lug lining looks fantastic. Nice touch!
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#28
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Bikes: 1975 Motobecane LeChampion (silver lilac), 1974 Motobecane Grand Jubile (red/black); 1975 Motobecane Team Champion (orange); 1982 Pinarello Professional (Exorcist Green); 1974 Raleigh Professional MkIV mink blue, 1974 Motobecane Grand Record blk/red
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Fantastic job on this one! I'm a big Motobecane fan as well, with a '75 Le Champion in silver lilac, a '74 Grand Jubile in red/black, and am just finishing restoration on a '75 Team Champion, which I kept the original paint on and went in a bit different direction. As soon as I have enough posts, I will try to submit some pics. Good work there!
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#29
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UTTERLY stunning bike!
A note for future reference - Nitto stems don't usually need to be sanded down to fit French steerers. I learned this one from verktyg - run a brake cylinder hone down the inside of the steerer, just enough to knock off any corrosion. Double check to make certain the top locknut of the headset doesn't have a smaller aperture than the steerer itself, and you can run a Dremel or a file around to open it out to accept the stem when done. Apparently Nitto Technomics measure out to around 21.8. Since I learned this I've found it works pretty reliably.
A note for future reference - Nitto stems don't usually need to be sanded down to fit French steerers. I learned this one from verktyg - run a brake cylinder hone down the inside of the steerer, just enough to knock off any corrosion. Double check to make certain the top locknut of the headset doesn't have a smaller aperture than the steerer itself, and you can run a Dremel or a file around to open it out to accept the stem when done. Apparently Nitto Technomics measure out to around 21.8. Since I learned this I've found it works pretty reliably.
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#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
UTTERLY stunning bike!
A note for future reference - Nitto stems don't usually need to be sanded down to fit French steerers. I learned this one from verktyg - run a brake cylinder hone down the inside of the steerer, just enough to knock off any corrosion. Double check to make certain the top locknut of the headset doesn't have a smaller aperture than the steerer itself, and you can run a Dremel or a file around to open it out to accept the stem when done. Apparently Nitto Technomics measure out to around 21.8. Since I learned this I've found it works pretty reliably.
A note for future reference - Nitto stems don't usually need to be sanded down to fit French steerers. I learned this one from verktyg - run a brake cylinder hone down the inside of the steerer, just enough to knock off any corrosion. Double check to make certain the top locknut of the headset doesn't have a smaller aperture than the steerer itself, and you can run a Dremel or a file around to open it out to accept the stem when done. Apparently Nitto Technomics measure out to around 21.8. Since I learned this I've found it works pretty reliably.
#31
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The brake cylinder hone is my friend - I've found it useful for both steerers and seat tubes. The last two 531-tubed Raleighs I bought had been fitted with undersized seat posts. Once I straightened out the seat lugs the interiors of the seat tubes had corrosion from moisture that had gotten in. The hone made things smooth again, so that with grease the correct 27.2 mm posts fit properly.
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#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well THAT'S annoying.
I've been looking for a TA Pro Vis 5 Cyclotouriste set for my bike. It's hilly here, I like to spin, and the TA Professional 52/42T crankset was cool, but not something that was going to work in the long run, so I've been searching for a 50.4 BCD crankset that I could run 46/30T. After not finding anything here, and seeing auctions go for $130 that would still require me to buy new rings, I finally caved and bought the Velo Orange 50.4 crankset and - smarty that I thought I was - a pretty nice looking TA Pro Vis 5 drive side crank arm, thinking that I could use this as a matching pair with my existing non-drive-side TA crank arm from the Professional, and the VO chainrings. Then I'd sell the VO arms.
Well, it looks great!
But here's a lesson learned. The teeth on the Professional chainings are cut on the LEFT side of the rings. The teeth on the VO chainrings are cut on the RIGHT side of the rings. There's no way I can get the big ring/big cog combo to work without rubbing either the chain or the crank... I guess I can use the VO arms, but it's a bummer.
See below - the lovely combo I thought would work, then the comparison: TA Professional first, then the VO.
I've been looking for a TA Pro Vis 5 Cyclotouriste set for my bike. It's hilly here, I like to spin, and the TA Professional 52/42T crankset was cool, but not something that was going to work in the long run, so I've been searching for a 50.4 BCD crankset that I could run 46/30T. After not finding anything here, and seeing auctions go for $130 that would still require me to buy new rings, I finally caved and bought the Velo Orange 50.4 crankset and - smarty that I thought I was - a pretty nice looking TA Pro Vis 5 drive side crank arm, thinking that I could use this as a matching pair with my existing non-drive-side TA crank arm from the Professional, and the VO chainrings. Then I'd sell the VO arms.
Well, it looks great!
But here's a lesson learned. The teeth on the Professional chainings are cut on the LEFT side of the rings. The teeth on the VO chainrings are cut on the RIGHT side of the rings. There's no way I can get the big ring/big cog combo to work without rubbing either the chain or the crank... I guess I can use the VO arms, but it's a bummer.
See below - the lovely combo I thought would work, then the comparison: TA Professional first, then the VO.
Last edited by mcgregorj; 04-15-21 at 06:12 PM. Reason: narrative flow
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
UTTERLY stunning bike!
A note for future reference - Nitto stems don't usually need to be sanded down to fit French steerers. I learned this one from verktyg - run a brake cylinder hone down the inside of the steerer, just enough to knock off any corrosion. Double check to make certain the top locknut of the headset doesn't have a smaller aperture than the steerer itself, and you can run a Dremel or a file around to open it out to accept the stem when done. Apparently Nitto Technomics measure out to around 21.8. Since I learned this I've found it works pretty reliably.
A note for future reference - Nitto stems don't usually need to be sanded down to fit French steerers. I learned this one from verktyg - run a brake cylinder hone down the inside of the steerer, just enough to knock off any corrosion. Double check to make certain the top locknut of the headset doesn't have a smaller aperture than the steerer itself, and you can run a Dremel or a file around to open it out to accept the stem when done. Apparently Nitto Technomics measure out to around 21.8. Since I learned this I've found it works pretty reliably.
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Current project: 1976 Motobecane Grand Record restomod
Current project: 1976 Motobecane Grand Record restomod
#34
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I know nothing about the VO crankset, but is it not possible to flip the inner ring around and still use it? I had a similar problem with a crankset I had though it was self inflicted - at first I didn't realize there was a "handedness" and installed the inner ring "backwards"....
#35
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Also new TA rings are available on eBay. There is a UK vendor selling them. Shipping from the UK has become expensive with all the supply chain disruptions caused by the pandemic which is too bad because I'd like to order a carradice bag support.
#36
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Bit of a zombie revival here, can you share the Color Factory contact? I'm looking to refinish my Falcon. Thanks!
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
#37
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Keep an eye out for a CLB centerpull housing stop hanger with the teeth built in. Not really better than other options, just cool and trick IMHO. Note, the one in the linked pic has been polished by the owner, they're a bit rougher as-delivered (but not bad). Take care when shopping for one because they also made them smooth on the bottom, no teeth, so look closely.
Mark B
Mark B
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
And no worries about resurrecting the zombie thread - I should post a "year later" update photo!
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Current project: 1976 Motobecane Grand Record restomod
Current project: 1976 Motobecane Grand Record restomod
#39
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Sure thing, ascherer - I'll dig it up and send you a PM.
And no worries about resurrecting the zombie thread - I should post a "year later" update photo!
And no worries about resurrecting the zombie thread - I should post a "year later" update photo!
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
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#40
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It's so nice when ya see something that brings back Loving Memories...
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No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
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#41
Fuji Fan
That's a fine job and a fine looking bike. That's a wet paint job, right? I really like the green and cream. I have a Witcomb with an ugly paint job and I'm thinking of using a similar color scheme (likely British racing green with white).
Yeah that's too bad about the IRD freewheel. I've heard less than stellar things about it as well. At least it has modern tooth profile so hopefully the shifting is decent.
I've been riding my '72-'73 Moto Grand Record but the paint job has crackled. I'm jealous of your spiffy paint job!
Yeah that's too bad about the IRD freewheel. I've heard less than stellar things about it as well. At least it has modern tooth profile so hopefully the shifting is decent.
I've been riding my '72-'73 Moto Grand Record but the paint job has crackled. I'm jealous of your spiffy paint job!
Ugh, I did not catch that this was a zombie thread.
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