MarylandUSA

First post in Bike Forums. I'm 67 and just returned to cycling after 42 years.
My city bike--a Willow 3 by Brooklyn Bicycles--is too small for me; to sit upright, I need to raise the stem by 35 to 40mm. I'm glas it's that modest, because any longer than than and I'd have to replace three cables.

But my 180mm stem can't be safely raised any further. Here's the factory-installed stem as it's now extended.

I want to sit upright, like the Dutch. To do that, I need another 35 or 40mm of stem length.
My local bike shop wouldn't install a longer one, saying, "With your stem diameter (22.2mm), it wouldn't be safe; it could break when you go over a pothole."

That might be true of an aluminum stem. But surely not steel. So I bought a 250mm steel stem, a Sunlite TCO Piston 2-bolt Clamp Quill Stem. I hope to install it myself.

Here's my problem: I'm not mechanically inclined. I won't do it myself if I must remove, then reinstall the bar-end grips, brake levers, 3-speed shift lever, and accessory clamps. Ain't gonna happen.

How feasibly could I use a Dremel rotary wheel or a fine manual hacksaw to make two cuts in the old stem's clamp and simply extract the handlebars, like a Caesarian section? My new stem uses a two-piece clamp, so I could insert the handlebars as easily as I removed them.

As I see it, the risk is that if I'm not careful I might cut into the handlebar itself.

PS: I'd use links and photos but I'm not permitted until I've posted 10 times.

May I liberate the handlebars by cutting open the stem's clamp?

rccardr 

Not what I’d do myself, but in theory yes, this is feasable.
Would have a little concern about how well/naturally you can control your Willow with the bars that high, but hey, it’s your ride.

roadcrankr

Keep in mind that removing the handlebar may only require grip or lever on one side.
And not riding it for such a long spell could necessitate cable replacement, anyway.
Otherwise, your idea sounds workable. Naturally, avoid cutting into the bar. Use a fat screwdriver to break off the last bit.
Notice it's called handlebar or bar. You're welcome.

MikeWMass

IMHO, removing the grips and levers requires less mechanical aptitude than cutting the clamp as you are proposing. It ain't rocket science.

MarylandUSA

I know, but I have two accessory clamps on each side, too: A bell and a mirror on the left half, a headlight and a bottle holder on the right half. And a front bag that's literally wired to the bar so it can't be stolen.
Plus, I fear that when I pull or wiggle the bar through the clamp, the cables on the other side will run out of slack. So I'll need to loosen them. And then I won't install them just the way they were, causing problems in shifting and maybe braking.
The cables are working fine. The bike was built in about 2019. I bought it from an owner on Facebook. She had been using it, and I've been riding it for 6 weeks.
Thanks; that's the most valuable tip I'll receive. I would not have thought of that.
Got it! Thanks.

MarylandUSA

See my reply to roadcrankr. I'm a firm believer in Hofstadter's Law: "It always takes longer than you think it will, even when you take Hofstadter's Law into account."

MarylandUSA

Good point. I guess I won't know until I do it. If handling becomes squirmy, I'll lower the new stem.

maddog34

best thing to do is STRETCHING EXERCISES... your body is old and stiff (Mine too)... limber it up.

as to getting your bars out of the stock stem... if it's rolled steel, just BEND it open!a big flat blade screwdriver works for this... start by placeing the driver in the clamp slot and TWIST,, then work the blade up between the bar and stem and pry...
i've done this more than once.


and be aware.. raising the bars too much will only lead to HIP and LOWER BACK PAIN.
go see a Bicycle Fitting expert and get your bike set up Correctly, or suffer the consequences.
i just re[placed a seat for a customer.. she arrived sore from chaffing, and requested a Wider, cushier seat... she tested a wider "couch" seat, and several that i recommended... she left much happier.. on a NARROWER, harder padded seat, featuring more roll-off in the inner thigh area, and it was moved Forward too... "I LOVE THIS SEAT!!!" BIG Smile! i also coached her to anticipate bumps and unweight her rump by placing more weight on the PEDALS..... "this lets the bike rock back and forth, but not rub you in the wrong ways..."

MarylandUSA

Thanks, maddog34, but I'm afraid I can't: the factory stem is all-aluminum.

maddog34

then cut part way and break it, as suggested elsewhere... or leave it alone
Holland is one big flat beach, IMO. the first hill you encounter will not be fun.

and start stretching those old bones now!

SoSmellyAir

Metal parts heat up when cut with a Dremel, so there is also the risk of singeing your fingertips, as I once learnt the hard way.

soyabean

I agree you have a problem, because this is the right way to swap bars out of a one-bolt quill stem.

LBS is your friend here.

Kontact

If you aren't mechanical enough to remove the left grip and left brake lever, are you sure you're mechanical enough to precisely cut a stem without damaging the bar?

This honestly sounds like the 15 minute job, an hour if you really take your time.

soyabean

Yup, the more reason why the "not mechanically inclined" OP should seek professional help from a LBS.

I'm forseeing the new stem incorrectly installed and thus leaving to a dangerous accident, to themselves and others.

This haphazard is actually common to DIYs as a result of not getting enough torque from silly allen keys of condo tools. Socket wrench is my friend here.

SurferRosa

^ Those stem bolts don't require much torque. The amateur thing to do is to tighten it waay too much.

As far as removing bars from stems, try a little gentle prying of the clamp with use of a 4mm allen key. This has always worked for me and my old Cinelli stuff.

choddo

Quote:

Here's my problem: I'm not mechanically inclined. I won't do it myself if I must remove, then reinstall the bar-end grips, brake levers, 3-speed shift lever, and accessory clamps. Ain't gonna happen.

This seems to me like the least mechanically minded activity in this thread.

Jeff Neese

What are you suggesting, that you can't get a quill stem tight enough with a regular allen wrench? That's wrong. You don't actually want to torque it down too tight.

rm -rf

Since you are committed to cutting the old stem with a dremel:
wrap the bars near the stem with a few turns of heavy rags -- in case the cutoff wheel grabs and zooms off to the side. Or even better: the lid from a food can or something similar.
Use the thin cutoff wheels on the Dremel, and eye protection.

Cut a wedge! cut part way through, then again to remove a wedge of the aluminum -- think chopping down a tree.
Now pry the clamp slot with a screwdriver -- it should bend away at the wedge.

wheelreason

Yeah, moving the brake levers, shifter, bell, and anything else on the handlebars is going to be easier than cutting the stem, all you need is an allen wrench, screw driver and/or nut driver. The grips might be easy or hard, I'd cut them off and put a new set on. Cutting the stem, while not difficult, does require a bit more skill and precision, that being said, I look for any excuse to plug in the angle grinder...

Kontact

He doesn't need to remove the levers, just one lever and one grip on one side.

wheelreason

Even easier....

bboy314

Remove the stem from the steer tube before removing handlebar from the stem, and you can slide off the stem without having to mess with cable adjustment.

soyabean

This sillyness of this thread reminds me of the latest Saw X movie, where the girl cuts off her leg to access her bone marrow to suck it out.

FBinNY 

It's a shame to destroy the stem, but I understand your reasoning.

My first step would be to find a less snooty bike shop willing to do the job. Or seek out a local bike co-op.

Otherwise, you can do the job your way as follows.

Wrap cloth tape around the bar on both sides of the stem as indicators.
Now use a hack saw to cut most of the way through the stem without touching the tapes. Remove the clamp bolt and pry the stem open until it clears the bar or snaps.

BEFORE destroying the old stem, MAKE SURE your stem's clamp diameter matches the bar. There are multiple standards, and you don't want to end up stranded.

Jeff Neese

Honestly, this whole thing is ridiculous.

You either work on your own bikes, or you don't. If you do, then learning to swap handlebars, along with the associated removal and reinstallation of tape, brake levers, and accessories, is about as basic as it gets. Slightly more difficult than changing a tire, but not much.

If you don't work on bikes, that's fine. Get it to a shop and have them do it. But the fact that you're even thinking about taking a dremel to a stem just to remove the handlebars should make you take a big step back, and re-evaluate.