branko_76 

Yes, remove the fixed cup, especially if it is difficult to remove which may be an indication of corrosion forming. If there is corrosion, you want to nip it in the bud asap, the longer you wait, the worse it gets.

cyccommute 

I’m not trying to convince you to change your method. I’m pointing out that my method makes more sense if you don’t have a 6” square of wood and a large clamp. It also works better than the way we have all been taught to work on loose bearing bottom brackets which is to remove the adjustable cup first and then struggle with the fixed cup and a poorly designed tools...which the fixed cup tool is. Removing the fixed cup first avoids a lot of issues.

The only part from the existing crank that I suggest using is the crank fixing bolt. It’s only in the spindle finger tight as it just needs to hold the washer and bottom bracket cup (old one, not from the current bike) in place. Nothing is stressed.

The tool I developed is a poor man’s version of the Stein tool that nlerner posted above. The Stein tool only works if the fixed cup is removed first. It makes sense to me to do it that way even though I was taught like most every one to remove the adjustable cup first.

cyccommute 

Fixed cups are almost always tight enough to make them difficult to remove. Leaving them in place during regular maintenance won’t cause problems down the line. The Park Tool fixed cup wrench designed to remove them is an awful tool that is difficult to use without stabilization and other tools that might work better are generally expensive and, for the most part, extinct because fixed cups are very much a thing of the past. I was taught not to bother removing them unless absolutely necessary. My method, by the way, makes removal easier than trying to use the stupid fixed cup wrench unstabilized.

Frankly, I would suggest removing the fixed cup and replacing the whole bottom bracket with something that works better and requires far less maintenance...i.e. a cartridge bearing bottom bracket.

nlerner

Actually, the Stein tool works fine if the adjustable cup is removed, and that's usually the way I do it. You can even use a sacrificial spindle as it's just acting like a large bolt to attach to the Stein tool, sandwiching the flimsy fixed-cup wrench against the fixed-cup flats.

scarlson 

I've used it twice with success. I think my success is down to two things, one of which (not sure which) may not matter.
1) I use a weirdly big hex nut on the inside. Big enough that the points of it actually dig into the inside of the fixed cup.
2) I have only ever had to do it on low-end stuff, where the cups may not be very adequately hardened, so the nut and split washer can dig in.

I can imagine doing it on some thru-hardened old Campagnolo or some such would see the nut or lock washer just merrily skate along. I may be forced to try it on a friend's Campy cup, stuck in a Vitus 979 likely by galvanic corrosion, so maybe I'll have a chance to test this theory. I'm terrified of cracking a bonded joint with some precisely-applied force that the frame was decidedly not designed for.

merziac

I would venture that if the bonding coming loose is a worry, then while this may hasten it, it's likely to happen sooner rather than later anyway, I would go after it knowing full well it may happen. Better on the workstand than on the road.

That being said, I believe my clamp, trapped wrench method will minimize the possible debonding issue with the BB correctly and securely held in place.

I always have both wheels off and cradle the frame by standing as close as I can, lean into it and cradle the frame for more support while bringing the leverage.

It happens quickly if the lever is long enough so stress is very short and focused,

Using a long lever normally cracks the cup loose quickly with very little monkey motion that can cause problems with twisting and flailing if it is tight and you struggle.

merziac

Well the wood and the clamp, like the fender washer are not hard or expensive at all to source.

The cup, spindle and bearings are a (hopefully) precision interface.

I would contend that anything bolted to it when not complete is unstable and subjects it to undue stress, especially when you yard on it with a big lever.

However small, in the cases of great, old still good condition and often hard to source BB's, I take no chances to maintain the condition without doing any harm.

All that being said, I'm glad you get them apart, it doesn't matter how we do it so long as it gets done.

At the end of the day we want the same thing, get it out and make it right.

Steel Charlie

On my Italian bikes I just clean the threads, add a taste of oil for the rust thing, and then wrap a couple layers of plumbers tape on the cup. Works like a nylock and I've never had one come loose and it doesn't require beating into place.
JMO of course

cyccommute 

All your method, my method and the Stein Tool do is to stabilize the fix cup tool. It doesn’t need to clamp it against the cup. It just needs to be held in place. The fixed cup tool can even be used without stabilization...it’s more difficult but it can be done. In my method, the bolt is just finger tight. That’s all it needs to be.

I used to use a homemade tool at my co-op that I detailed here. It’s similar to your clamp method but, again, the nuts are only finger tight. My new method do exactly the same thing as the tool in my link and, for that matter, you clamp method. The only difference is that the tool in my method is free to turn.

merziac

Like I said, I'm glad you also take them apart so they get proper service, the way things go here it seems we are in the minority.