Suggestions for painting a steel frame
05-01-18, 10:03 AM
#26
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What kind of paint did you use? How easily does it scuff? Does the paint stay firm under tightened quick releases/nuts on the dropouts, or under the seat post binder bolt? That's where it messes up quickest without trying too hard...
05-01-18, 10:15 AM
#27
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@Kilroy1988 kilroy1988, I'm pretty sure it's an enamel I got at the paint store. I'll see if I can find the can. It does have a few nicks, but not all that many. And I am NOT careful when I park my bike. I'm content to have nicks. It's not as strong as the paint on my Bianchi, but nothing is. I must say, the paint on the Bianchi is the toughest I have ever seen. I'll look under the skewers, too. I'm not that picky, but this is definitely not crap, and I did a really bad job at it. One could have done better with more care.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
05-01-18, 10:20 AM
#28
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I noticed that a lot of people on this thread are using the term 'enamel' for a lot of different paint types - even 2-pack types.
To me in Britain, 'enamels' are either stove enamel, which is a bit specialist but still available here, or the synthetic enamels (which I think are usually alkyd based).
We also have the choice of Cellulose Lacquer, Acrylic Lacquer (the most common one in the aerosols in most motor factor places now), alkyd enamel and 2-pack.
Our 2-pack is either the old iso-cyanate stuff or the newer water-based stuff which you can use with ordinary paint masks. Generally, the water-based stuff is used in a base/lacquer system with a harder 2-pack lacquer on top.
I was wondering if 'enamel' was a general catch-all US English term for a whole lot of different paint types?
To me in Britain, 'enamels' are either stove enamel, which is a bit specialist but still available here, or the synthetic enamels (which I think are usually alkyd based).
We also have the choice of Cellulose Lacquer, Acrylic Lacquer (the most common one in the aerosols in most motor factor places now), alkyd enamel and 2-pack.
Our 2-pack is either the old iso-cyanate stuff or the newer water-based stuff which you can use with ordinary paint masks. Generally, the water-based stuff is used in a base/lacquer system with a harder 2-pack lacquer on top.
I was wondering if 'enamel' was a general catch-all US English term for a whole lot of different paint types?
While unfortunately it is often used as a catch all term, 'enamel' in US English technically means the same thing. Enamels are oil based paints, though they can have an added resin such as alkyd or acrylic, and still be classified as an enamel.
It should probably be pointed out that enamel originally meant fired on glazes that were added to metalwork, which is something else entirely.
Lacquers are by definition a resin dissolved in a spirit -- not oil. Nitrocellulose lacquer was introduced as a replacement for enamels in the 1920s. Without further qualification, the term lacquer generally refers to this type. Cellulose lacquers are still sold in the US as well, though they are getting rarer. Contrary to popular opinion, there is usually more alkyd resin than celluloid in NC lacquer. Acrylic lacquers were introduced in the 60s (approximately) as an improvement on the old types, and used as an auto finish. Duplicolor touch up paint in the US is acrylic lacquer.
Two pack finish can refer to any catalyzed finish including epoxy, but these days usually refers to catalyzed urethane auto finishes.
In addition there are a lot of hybrid finishes available today that defy easy classification.
In general it seems to me that bicycle finishes have generally been the same stuff that was being used for cars at any given time and location.
Sorry if this is too wonky. I do deal with this stuff for a living.
05-01-18, 11:28 AM
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numbers are my best estimate/memory for rattle can from kragen/autozoen
respirator/mask $40 to 50
paint stripper $10
degreaser $8
acid etch primer $7-10
sandable primer $7-10
color 2 cans at $9 so $18
clear 2 cans at $9 so $18
misc sand paper rag
so for me at least is added up.....
and the time/effort/mess to get a good looking job is significant.....
so my grabber green rattle can job that is looking diseased will probably get powder in the future
ypmv
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
05-01-18, 11:31 AM
#30
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^^^ These are reasons I chose a brush over spray. And I think I used less than half the can.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
05-01-18, 02:22 PM
#31
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Ha! I do my share of professional craft painting and have thought about using a brush on a frame... I just assumed everyone else would find the results amateurish, no matter how nicely it turns out for brush work... Bicycles are of the industrial age, after all.
05-01-18, 04:00 PM
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I know the automotive paint systems are the best, but by the time I add up all that's needed - reducer, base, clear, hardener it's probably north of $100. then add new Raleigh decals for another $40-50. For a bike in excellent condition is only worth a couple hundred dollars at most. The 2k aerosols is worth a look, but they are expensive too. I am not trying to cheap out, I just have a hard time putting more money into paint or powder coat than the whole bike is worth. How about implement enamel, anybody ever tried that?
For those of you concerned that that's a lot of layers, keep in mind, this is pro paint, being applied by a pro (me), with pro equipment.
Edit: images below are of of the final candy-coat prior to wet sanding.
Last edited by DIMcyclist; 05-01-18 at 04:09 PM.
05-01-18, 04:02 PM
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Last edited by DIMcyclist; 05-01-18 at 04:07 PM.
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