Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#6226
Senior Member
Eight speed RDs are pretty versatile, but the only road FD that I've gotten to work with both road and MTB indexed shifters was a 105 8-speed era triple (FD-1057). The actuator arm was the same length as all of the Shimano MTB FDs from that era, but 9 speed and later road FDs had a shorter one. Do you find this to be true with other 8-speeds FDs? (Tiagra, Sora, 2200/2300, Claris?) I'm not familiar enough with each of them to make a recommendation, but if the cable travel on all 8 speed FDs is the same as that first gen 8 speed 105 FD, then it should also interchange with that Claris front brifter and Nexave FD. I have the full 105 triple eight STI group in a box that I'm waiting to drop on the right frameset, but I also have a spare 105 FD hitched to an RSX triple Rapid Fire trigger shifter on my flatbar bike and it hits all three chainwheels with no mods or odd cable routing.
#6227
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#6228
HarborBandS
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Chicago Western Suburbs
Posts: 477
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 266 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
57 Posts
Eight speed RDs are pretty versatile, but the only road FD that I've gotten to work with both road and MTB indexed shifters was a 105 8-speed era triple (FD-1057). The actuator arm was the same length as all of the Shimano MTB FDs from that era, but 9 speed and later road FDs had a shorter one. Do you find this to be true with other 8-speeds FDs? (Tiagra, Sora, 2200/2300, Claris?) I'm not familiar enough with each of them to make a recommendation, but if the cable travel on all 8 speed FDs is the same as that first gen 8 speed 105 FD, then it should also interchange with that Claris front brifter and Nexave FD. I have the full 105 triple eight STI group in a box that I'm waiting to drop on the right frameset, but I also have a spare 105 FD hitched to an RSX triple Rapid Fire trigger shifter on my flatbar bike and it hits all three chainwheels with no mods or odd cable routing.
It sounds like I may need to get a new bottom-pull road front derailleur and use one of those cable pulleys from Problem Solvers. Also the travel agents for the U-brakes. The cost of this is going up... Still cheaper than buying new wheels or a new groupset.
Perhaps bar-end shifters and longer-pull Tektro brake levers is more cost-effective.
#6229
Senior Member
Tektro AL930 or AL926 mini Vs work well enough with short pull levers, IF they clear your tires... otherwise, I'd say barends and V levers will save a lot of trouble. I don't think you'll find CX interrupter levers that work with long pull brakes, that's the only downside.
Likes For vp1337:
#6231
Senior Member
"How narrow a 26" wheel is possible? Wouldn't mind trying a 1.25" or 1.5" street tire. I have some 1.75" Forte tires on a set of wider rims but their pretty heavy."
I've routinely used 26 - 1.25 tires on stock MTB wheels, including a couple of Trek 950s. Actually its my standard choice unless I happen to have a used set of 1.5 tires laying around. 1.25" ~ 32mm.
I've routinely used 26 - 1.25 tires on stock MTB wheels, including a couple of Trek 950s. Actually its my standard choice unless I happen to have a used set of 1.5 tires laying around. 1.25" ~ 32mm.
#6232
Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 29
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Wow -- these builds are all really amazing. I really like the diversity of frames and gearing options.
I made the conversion on my old GT Timberline and went with Tourney STI brifters, and I have it dialed in pretty well at this point. The front derailleur was a bit of a headache, but I eventually got that one working well without any pulley/cam additions. I've also added on Shimano SPD MTB pedals since the photo was taken. I rebuilt the wheels ages ago with Mavic rims and sealed bearing hubs (a Bullseye on the back), so those have worked very well. Also swapped out the BB with a sealed bearing one.
I made the conversion on my old GT Timberline and went with Tourney STI brifters, and I have it dialed in pretty well at this point. The front derailleur was a bit of a headache, but I eventually got that one working well without any pulley/cam additions. I've also added on Shimano SPD MTB pedals since the photo was taken. I rebuilt the wheels ages ago with Mavic rims and sealed bearing hubs (a Bullseye on the back), so those have worked very well. Also swapped out the BB with a sealed bearing one.
Likes For grahamtillotson:
#6233
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Got this Jamis Explorer off CL for 100 bucks years ago, set it up like this originally. Later had it powder coated green, city bars, ratcheting stem shifters because my knees kept hitting the bar ends, folding rear basket for beer. It got stolen, but overall an underrated frame IMO, looked but never came across another one like it. Tons of eyelets, nice place to start for a 26" touring setup.
#6234
Senior Member
are you commited to 26"?
"How narrow a 26" wheel is possible? Wouldn't mind trying a 1.25" or 1.5" street tire. I have some 1.75" Forte tires on a set of wider rims but their pretty heavy."
I've routinely used 26 - 1.25 tires on stock MTB wheels, including a couple of Trek 950s. Actually its my standard choice unless I happen to have a used set of 1.5 tires laying around. 1.25" ~ 32mm.
I've routinely used 26 - 1.25 tires on stock MTB wheels, including a couple of Trek 950s. Actually its my standard choice unless I happen to have a used set of 1.5 tires laying around. 1.25" ~ 32mm.
Last edited by Taxi Rob; 10-21-18 at 06:47 PM. Reason: reasons
#6235
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 81
Bikes: '73 Motobecane Mirage, '94 GT Karakoram, '14 Surly Pugsley
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just put the fenders on in anticipation of fall weather here in CO
#6236
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bloomington/Normal IL
Posts: 1,062
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 152 Post(s)
Liked 237 Times
in
139 Posts
^ HOT
@ papaStrudel I gotta ask, "What is that stem?"
@ papaStrudel I gotta ask, "What is that stem?"
#6237
Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,526
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 965 Times
in
629 Posts
+10 Hottest GT ever!
#6238
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,449
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4243 Post(s)
Liked 2,951 Times
in
1,809 Posts
#6240
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 81
Bikes: '73 Motobecane Mirage, '94 GT Karakoram, '14 Surly Pugsley
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks! I'm constantly amazed at how flawlessly the deore lx shifts for an almost 25 yr old bike!
It is the Cigne stem! I was unaware they had a tall adapter. What is that?
It's the VO Cigne stem, 50mm reach!
It is the Cigne stem! I was unaware they had a tall adapter. What is that?
^ HOT
@ papaStrudel I gotta ask, "What is that stem?"
@ papaStrudel I gotta ask, "What is that stem?"
#6241
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,449
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4243 Post(s)
Liked 2,951 Times
in
1,809 Posts
Since the Cigne stem requires a larger clamping area than a normal stem, when they first came out, they said that you couldn't use a normal threadless stem adapter to use them (those don't have a tall enough clamping area) - at least it looks like you've got a threaded fork on that bike, right? So velo orange made (a year or two after they came out with the Cigne stem) a special threaded to threadless stem adapter that has a much larger clampling area (also needed for their cool-looking tall stack stems. I didn't know how necessary that tall adapter was (at 3x the price of their regular, I had hoped to get away without it when I was considering a Cigne).
#6242
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 81
Bikes: '73 Motobecane Mirage, '94 GT Karakoram, '14 Surly Pugsley
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Since the Cigne stem requires a larger clamping area than a normal stem, when they first came out, they said that you couldn't use a normal threadless stem adapter to use them (those don't have a tall enough clamping area) - at least it looks like you've got a threaded fork on that bike, right? So velo orange made (a year or two after they came out with the Cigne stem) a special threaded to threadless stem adapter that has a much larger clampling area (also needed for their cool-looking tall stack stems. I didn't know how necessary that tall adapter was (at 3x the price of their regular, I had hoped to get away without it when I was considering a Cigne).
#6243
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
[QUOTE=emro;20632436]I know! i have a bike with that exact deore lx. And one with the XT from the same era. I really don't buy into the new models shifting better. I mean, it shifts perfectly every time. i don't feel a signifcant difference to my newer models. Thats what i love so much about (old) bike tech. It's simple but works like a charm.
#6244
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Can anyone help me with sizing? Want to build up a new bike for my girlfriend. Would love to make an dropbar conversion.
Do you guys think an 18" frame with c-c top tube 55cm will be too big for my 170cm small gf? I'm afraid so...
thanks in advance.
Do you guys think an 18" frame with c-c top tube 55cm will be too big for my 170cm small gf? I'm afraid so...
thanks in advance.
#6245
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 948
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 377 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 14 Times
in
10 Posts
I think top tube length is more a concern than seat tube.
#6246
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
EDIT: i could get a cheap frameset. But since it isn't build up,even with flatbar, we can't go try it out.
#6247
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 948
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 377 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 14 Times
in
10 Posts
My MTB size is 19.5 or 20 inch, which also seem to have about a 22 inch or 22.5 inch top tube. Still, an 18 inch MTB seems "about" right for 5'6".
#6248
Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,526
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 965 Times
in
629 Posts
Lots of variation in top tube, the early 1980s MTBs tended to have the shortest TT (still longer than road bikes). By 1990, the top tubes really got long. So sometimes an 18 inch MTB could be OK, other times she might need something smaller. My 5-4 wife rides a 15 inch MTB (early 1990s).
Generally for me, a drop bar conversion lets me go longer. With a flat bar MTB, I was riding a 18 inch. With my drop bar, I am riding a 20 inch frame (road bikes I am about 22 inch).
All my measurements are center to top.
Generally for me, a drop bar conversion lets me go longer. With a flat bar MTB, I was riding a 18 inch. With my drop bar, I am riding a 20 inch frame (road bikes I am about 22 inch).
All my measurements are center to top.
#6250
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
And since i have the required posts now... Here my Scott Evolution Pro. Tink it's from 1992 or something. Was my Dads first MTB, and he rode it hard. Was used as a city bike and now deserved some love. Had to get it powder coated since the old paint was coming of and it got a bit rusty here and there. Still using the original drive train (XT rear mech,dx front mech, xt cranks,)plus xt ( it think) brakes. Hope you like it.
BTW: I'm running 26x2,4 Conti X-Kings and they fit great. Gonna try a RaceKing 2,2 for a little more speed in the back though.
BTW: I'm running 26x2,4 Conti X-Kings and they fit great. Gonna try a RaceKing 2,2 for a little more speed in the back though.
Last edited by emro; 10-28-18 at 06:14 AM.