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Raising saddle question

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Old 05-13-17, 03:57 PM
  #26  
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I switched to 172.5 cranks last year, switched back to 170mm. I found some difference - in my average speeds, a bit of knee pain, effort levels to get the same speed...... I switched back to see if that had been a difference. I much prefer the shorter crank, I'm going to see if I can find something in 167.5 or 165. May have something to do with the crank, but the 170's are an old (80's) sugino square taper, the 172.5 are relatively new FSA ISIS. 'Quality' should be the other way.

I'm just under 6'1", for reference.
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Old 05-14-17, 06:03 AM
  #27  
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Knees seem fine today, it's everything else that is sore. Including lower back, which indicates too poor posture. More work to do.

When seated I have to use my toes at a stop. Not sure I've ever been able to put my heel down, not without leaning on the bike. It's just more obvious now.

5'7", so I'd think 170's are about what I want. Not sure it matters as I switched out of clipless for the time being--so my feet have more than several mm of play in any direction.
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Old 05-14-17, 11:56 AM
  #28  
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Do you mean you can reach the ground with your toes while seated on the seat without leaning?

I think that means you have a very long foot or your seat is too low for comfortable cycling. I'm not sure about that bc I've never tried it - at a stop, I move my body forward so it's over the top bar and just put my foot (usually my right) on the ground.
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Old 05-14-17, 05:43 PM
  #29  
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Yes, after I was fitted (years ago) I could easily reach with my feet, I could go flat footed with a bit of a lean. I don't think I've ever come to a stop and slid forward to be over the top tube, not during stopping. Just roll to a stop and put down toes (or foot). Either I stop where it is unlevel and I can foot-down on a curb or stop on the dirt side of the road; or if it's a long wait then I'll get over the top tube.

I just checked, and on both bikes with their "new" saddle heights, it's rather uncomfortable but I can touch down with both feet. Just the toes mind you, and it isn't something I'd care to do.

I think I have a normal foot (albeit narrow). Size 43 shoe (9.5 mens), and I'm 5'7".
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Old 05-28-17, 07:16 AM
  #30  
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Finally took some video. I'd reshoot but I'm waiting for the bugs to go away... Anyhow, I think I see some hip rocking going on on bike #1, and it certainly looks like I'm locking my elbows on both bikes.





Second bike (this is one I want for fast group rides)





Edit: sorry, I uploaded to tinypic, and it seems tinypic ate all but the last one! and won't let me reupload. Will work on later.

Last edited by supton; 05-28-17 at 07:46 AM.
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Old 05-28-17, 07:37 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by supton
Yes, after I was fitted (years ago) I could easily reach with my feet, I could go flat footed with a bit of a lean. I don't think I've ever come to a stop and slid forward to be over the top tube, not during stopping. Just roll to a stop and put down toes (or foot). Either I stop where it is unlevel and I can foot-down on a curb or stop on the dirt side of the road; or if it's a long wait then I'll get over the top tube.

I just checked, and on both bikes with their "new" saddle heights, it's rather uncomfortable but I can touch down with both feet. Just the toes mind you, and it isn't something I'd care to do.

I think I have a normal foot (albeit narrow). Size 43 shoe (9.5 mens), and I'm 5'7".
Certainly for me going flat footed or nearly flat-footed at a stop would mean the saddle is way too low, but it varies between different bikes and riders. I usually can put the ball of one foot down, with a slight lean.
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Old 05-28-17, 08:23 AM
  #32  
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Correct

Doug64, I totally agree with your comments and also advise checking cleats. Wrong cleat placement can also cause knee pain and effect power.
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Old 05-28-17, 11:31 AM
  #33  
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No cleats to adjust.

Let's try the pics again. Apparently png doesn't work at tinypic--err, no it just doesn't like me today (refusing to post some jpegs too).



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