Anyone riding Aforce AL33?
#5
FLIR Kitten to 0.05C
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They are very nice rims. Right up there with Belgium+ and R90SL. Several wheel builders lace them.
#6
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Thread Starter
Most of the reviews I read were 1-2 years old. Was hoping for some newer insight or longterm info.
I guess I'll find out soon enough.
Was between R90 and Aforce and I decided to go deeper. Hope I don't get blown all over the creation.
I guess I'll find out soon enough.
Was between R90 and Aforce and I decided to go deeper. Hope I don't get blown all over the creation.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
build kit from Bike Hub Store
White Industries T11
Sapim CXrays
20f/24r
Bicycle is 2012 Dedacciai Strada Assoluto
Old wheels are Kinlin XR27 front/XR300 rear WI H3 with CXrays.
I have a wheel set with H Plus Son Archetypes but decided I wanted the deeper profile of the Aforce (should be same as the old rear XR300).
White Industries T11
Sapim CXrays
20f/24r
Bicycle is 2012 Dedacciai Strada Assoluto
Old wheels are Kinlin XR27 front/XR300 rear WI H3 with CXrays.
I have a wheel set with H Plus Son Archetypes but decided I wanted the deeper profile of the Aforce (should be same as the old rear XR300).
Last edited by jideta; 09-11-19 at 02:54 PM.
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#11
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Did you decide on ceramic or regular brake tracks, and what total build weight do you expect?
#12
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MSW
Ceramic will eventually wear and I don't mind the machined look. Also didn't want to be messing around with brake pads.
I expect the build to be just under 1600gms. This will be with brass nipples( I ride next to the ocean a lot and don't want to be worrying about alloy nipples corroding). Not really concerned with the weight given the wider profile of the rims.
If I wanted lighter, I'd go Kinlin again. Or R90sl.
Ceramic will eventually wear and I don't mind the machined look. Also didn't want to be messing around with brake pads.
I expect the build to be just under 1600gms. This will be with brass nipples( I ride next to the ocean a lot and don't want to be worrying about alloy nipples corroding). Not really concerned with the weight given the wider profile of the rims.
If I wanted lighter, I'd go Kinlin again. Or R90sl.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
According to tracking they are here but I won't be able to start lacing them up until later today.
I'm afraid I don't expect them to be too different from the HEDs, HPlusSon or Kinlin I'm already riding/rode so I don't think I'll be much help.
Coming off factory wheels is a different story (road bike was a frame up build so I had custom wheels from day 1). You should feel a difference from those boat anchors you're spinning up.
I'm afraid I don't expect them to be too different from the HEDs, HPlusSon or Kinlin I'm already riding/rode so I don't think I'll be much help.
Coming off factory wheels is a different story (road bike was a frame up build so I had custom wheels from day 1). You should feel a difference from those boat anchors you're spinning up.
#15
Jet Jockey
In wind tunnel tests, Kinlin XR31T performed near identically to the AL33, but does so at half the price and lower weight, I believe.
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Why are we picking apart rims that cost only $150 to begin with? It doesn't seem like that much money given its relative importance in the operation of a bicycle.
Last edited by Robert A; 09-13-19 at 04:05 PM.
#17
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#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Seems like spending the extra just for bling is a waste of cash. Gold plate yer spokes while you're at it.
I don't need anyone to tell me where and how I should spend my cash.
I just laced up some Kinlin XR22T and the interior bead was almost cutting sharp. Had to burnish the edges with a socket before installing the tubes/tire. QC ain't exactly awesome on them Kinlins.
Is that what they call 'you get what you pay for?'
Besides, if any of you took the time to read, I'm already coming off XR270/XR300 Kinlin and wanted to try something different/better. Jeez, they're in the freakin picture of my bicycle!
So please, anymore Kinlin posts, please take it to the Kinlin thread.
thank you.
I don't need anyone to tell me where and how I should spend my cash.
I just laced up some Kinlin XR22T and the interior bead was almost cutting sharp. Had to burnish the edges with a socket before installing the tubes/tire. QC ain't exactly awesome on them Kinlins.
Is that what they call 'you get what you pay for?'
Besides, if any of you took the time to read, I'm already coming off XR270/XR300 Kinlin and wanted to try something different/better. Jeez, they're in the freakin picture of my bicycle!
So please, anymore Kinlin posts, please take it to the Kinlin thread.
thank you.
Last edited by jideta; 09-13-19 at 06:06 PM.
#19
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Thread Starter
I just wanted to say one more thing in relation to cost at the risk of hijacking my own thread.
Tires and wheels are the contact points to the ground. I think I got around $4000 in my bicycle and I'm going to worry about $75 bucks on my wheels? I'm gonna buy the cheapest on sale tires out there? Because they're consumables (what we call in the business wear and tear)? Really?
I'm at the point where I don't really have a budget for things like this. I ain't putting tires from Sears on a Ferrari just because they're going to wear out.
Again, tires and wheels are the only things that contact the road so if you need the cheapest solution, then you should also be riding the cheapest bicycle you can find too.
If you need to cheap out on something, wheels and tires ain't it. Go cheap on the saddle then you can be a cheap A$$.
Tires and wheels are the contact points to the ground. I think I got around $4000 in my bicycle and I'm going to worry about $75 bucks on my wheels? I'm gonna buy the cheapest on sale tires out there? Because they're consumables (what we call in the business wear and tear)? Really?
I'm at the point where I don't really have a budget for things like this. I ain't putting tires from Sears on a Ferrari just because they're going to wear out.
Again, tires and wheels are the only things that contact the road so if you need the cheapest solution, then you should also be riding the cheapest bicycle you can find too.
If you need to cheap out on something, wheels and tires ain't it. Go cheap on the saddle then you can be a cheap A$$.
#20
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It means something when we can save $500 on a $2,000 pair of wheels. But we spend $100 on cycling accessories without thinking about it. Why worry about saving $75 on a critical drivetrain component? Rims are not consumables unless you abuse the bike.
#21
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Thread Starter
Little glitch: wrong hub got Shimano instead of Campy
Exchange hubs later
Free sealant and tape!
thanks Brandon at BikeHubStore!
#22
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There a fine rim. I have built a few. The cost compared to it's relative value compared to other options is why I don't build with it on a regular basis. Anything close to modern in shape will beat those XR 270 and 300 you are still riding though.
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#23
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I think I ordered them in 2011 or so, finally retiring them.
BTW, congrats on 10 years Rob!
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#24
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Big and fat.
First things that came to mind.
Not like the HEDs. More on this later.
Makes your tires sort of like low profiles. Spesh 26mm Turbo Cottons measure out to about 27mm, not much gain, but compared to the 28s, you lose a bunch of sidewall.
Not sure if I'm gonna ride em yet as I got the wrong free hub; I can always change the derailleur but I'm feeling kinda lazy.
Can't really tell the difference between the HPlusSon on the rear despite being 7mm wider.
The bad.
On both rims, there is a humungous bump on the sidewall where I believe the weld is. Well, huge in wheel truing scale. Upon closer inspection, you can see the 'bump' on the inside also as it's actually a rise in the sidewall.
Trued the wheel vertically best I can, but there's still that little hump that I think if I were to adjust out, I'm would be actually flattening that part of the rim.
Okay, one rim I can see. But both?
Out of Kinlin, Alex, HSonPlus and HED, by far the worst finish on the seam. I may be nitpicking but these are one of the most expensive alloy rims out there.
I don't think it will affect the ride. When I first saw it I did worry about pulses when braking but I think it will be okay.
To the Robert fellow, get the R90sl or HEDs instead.
Unless you really want big and fat.
Pics tomorrow.
First things that came to mind.
Not like the HEDs. More on this later.
Makes your tires sort of like low profiles. Spesh 26mm Turbo Cottons measure out to about 27mm, not much gain, but compared to the 28s, you lose a bunch of sidewall.
Not sure if I'm gonna ride em yet as I got the wrong free hub; I can always change the derailleur but I'm feeling kinda lazy.
Can't really tell the difference between the HPlusSon on the rear despite being 7mm wider.
The bad.
On both rims, there is a humungous bump on the sidewall where I believe the weld is. Well, huge in wheel truing scale. Upon closer inspection, you can see the 'bump' on the inside also as it's actually a rise in the sidewall.
Trued the wheel vertically best I can, but there's still that little hump that I think if I were to adjust out, I'm would be actually flattening that part of the rim.
Okay, one rim I can see. But both?
Out of Kinlin, Alex, HSonPlus and HED, by far the worst finish on the seam. I may be nitpicking but these are one of the most expensive alloy rims out there.
I don't think it will affect the ride. When I first saw it I did worry about pulses when braking but I think it will be okay.
To the Robert fellow, get the R90sl or HEDs instead.
Unless you really want big and fat.
Pics tomorrow.