Show us your Peugeot PX10 !
#526
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Bikes: peugeot nice, peugeot cadre allege, peugeot record du monde, novara express, forge super sport brevia, + a mtn bike
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i had my px10 stolen out of the harvard yard (left it there 3 nites w/o a lock) in 1968 one of life's little regrets...
#527
rmfrance
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: SW France
Posts: 108
Bikes: 1968 Peugeot PX10, 1974 Peugeot PX10, 1964 Peugeot PX10, 1977 Peugeot PSN10, 1975 Gitane Super Olympic, 1978 Gitane Vuelta, c1958 Gitane Competition(?), 1983 Mercier?, 1981 Peugeot PF10, 1985 Peugeot PH501 Ventoux, 1965 Moulton M4 Speed
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Here's a useful reference you might have seen: ipernity: 1960 Peugeot PX-10 SOLD by Peter Kohler
It's restored, but sounds as though most parts and maybe paint are original, so it might give you some help sourcing parts for yours.
Meanwhile, my frame is now in primer - those Pro lugs look pretty crisp even BEFORE they're picked out in black. :0)
Incidentally, I've used Hammerite smooth finish in the past on a (Moulton) frame. I found that it is indeed durable in most situations, but will chip quite readily if knocked, so watch out for that once it's applied. On the upside, that means it will strip away cleanly using nothing more than a putty knife if you ever change your mind!
It's restored, but sounds as though most parts and maybe paint are original, so it might give you some help sourcing parts for yours.
Meanwhile, my frame is now in primer - those Pro lugs look pretty crisp even BEFORE they're picked out in black. :0)
Incidentally, I've used Hammerite smooth finish in the past on a (Moulton) frame. I found that it is indeed durable in most situations, but will chip quite readily if knocked, so watch out for that once it's applied. On the upside, that means it will strip away cleanly using nothing more than a putty knife if you ever change your mind!
Thanks, if you roll back to post 20025395 there is some more info. That shade of Blue looks lighter in full sunlight, its Hammerite Smooth Blue, available off the shelf in a pressure pack, though a bit hard finding AU stockists. It was recommended somewhere as an identical match for the factory paint, and for pressure packs its a decent quality paint.
I'm not entirely sure the shade is correct, though the factory paint is not necessarily what these bikes are wearing 60 years later.. so a bit hard to compare. The brochures look different to most of the ancient blue bikes I have seen online. My main aim was to strip the frame to check for any 'hidden' issues, fortunately none were found, ..then give it an etch prime and 5 or 6 top coats of something. Initially I was going to go with the pearly white, instead I gave this colour a try - it does grow on you, but then so do BCC's..
This project has been sitting for almost 18 months now waiting for the next phase. I have acquired all the parts it needs (maybe ) just have to polish it, clean it, add transfers and a clear coat. I don't currently have the time or space to work on it!
I'm not entirely sure the shade is correct, though the factory paint is not necessarily what these bikes are wearing 60 years later.. so a bit hard to compare. The brochures look different to most of the ancient blue bikes I have seen online. My main aim was to strip the frame to check for any 'hidden' issues, fortunately none were found, ..then give it an etch prime and 5 or 6 top coats of something. Initially I was going to go with the pearly white, instead I gave this colour a try - it does grow on you, but then so do BCC's..
This project has been sitting for almost 18 months now waiting for the next phase. I have acquired all the parts it needs (maybe ) just have to polish it, clean it, add transfers and a clear coat. I don't currently have the time or space to work on it!
Last edited by rmfrance; 09-30-19 at 11:31 AM.
#528
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: QLD, NZ or somewhere over the Tasman.
Posts: 21
Bikes: PRN10/E '77 Peugeot, '76 Peugeot PY10 - orsomethingorother, '78 Peugeot ST10, Peugeot '60 PLX10, Bertin '60 something C37, NRS3 Giant dualy, Something very light..
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Here's a useful reference you might have seen: ipernity: 1960 Peugeot PX-10 SOLD by Peter Kohler
It's restored, but sounds as though most parts and maybe paint are original, so it might give you some help sourcing parts for yours.
Meanwhile, my frame is now in primer - those Pro lugs look pretty crisp even BEFORE they're picked out in black. :0)
Incidentally, I've used Hammerite smooth finish in the past on a (Moulton) frame. I found that it is indeed durable in most situations, but will chip quite readily if knocked, so watch out for that once it's applied. On the upside, that means it will strip away cleanly using nothing more than a putty knife if you ever change your mind!
It's restored, but sounds as though most parts and maybe paint are original, so it might give you some help sourcing parts for yours.
Meanwhile, my frame is now in primer - those Pro lugs look pretty crisp even BEFORE they're picked out in black. :0)
Incidentally, I've used Hammerite smooth finish in the past on a (Moulton) frame. I found that it is indeed durable in most situations, but will chip quite readily if knocked, so watch out for that once it's applied. On the upside, that means it will strip away cleanly using nothing more than a putty knife if you ever change your mind!
Not so good to hear the hammerite is easy chipped, don't want it to peel off with a putty knife I debated whether to send the frame off for pro painting, prefer DIY and less likely to get any transit frame damage. I had experimented on another DR10 Pug frame that came out OK in dark silver/red, what sort of clear did you use and how many coats? I think its best to paint them yourself, there will always be the need for the occasional touchup, even if its a pro 2 pak job... if its a workshop mix then scratches and chips will be very difficult to hide. BTW - there is a guy on here that hand paints frames with a brush and gets an excellent end result.
That Peter Kohler bike is a good example of the cost vs usability of full period restoration. The much sought after duralumin frame with a defunct Ideale seat, that ancient derailleur on the rear, rubber ended Simplex skewers, so much on that bike is prohibitively expensive or just plain unobtainable.. even that type of downtube shifter, and do you go with an AVA (..or Atax) death stem on a bike you want to ride?
I've opted for some SLJ Simplex for mine, a later model stem with Philippe bars, Criterium shifters, and a Brooks seat - and Mafac pros rather than Dural brakes ..all good stuff and far less drama sourcing than going completely original. I am always on the lookout for parts online, but given the current crazy ebay pricing i will probably stick with the gear I have gathered over the past years.
BTW.. Black lugs would also be my preference over the yellow original lug colour scheme, are you going to give lug lining a try, adds a nice touch?
#529
rmfrance
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: SW France
Posts: 108
Bikes: 1968 Peugeot PX10, 1974 Peugeot PX10, 1964 Peugeot PX10, 1977 Peugeot PSN10, 1975 Gitane Super Olympic, 1978 Gitane Vuelta, c1958 Gitane Competition(?), 1983 Mercier?, 1981 Peugeot PF10, 1985 Peugeot PH501 Ventoux, 1965 Moulton M4 Speed
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That Kohler bike sounds like the parts were mostly there, but I know what you mean about needing deep pockets to source early parts. Obviously his are.
That said, I do scour small ads here in France, and come across stuff at surprisingly reasonable prices compared to Ebay. I've actually considered supplying parts which are hard to find outside France, in fact.
I recently refinished a '77 PS10 and chose to go for the bronze/gold rather than the original silver grey. I found a good match from a spray paint designed for auto wheels, which stated that it was highly resistant to stone chips. It covered well, although had a slightly gritty surface when dried, so I gace it two or three clear coats, which I rubbed down as much as I dared once it had hardened. It felt good, although I have a feeling that it has since hardened even more, as it feels less smoth than before. Or maybe I'm being paranoid...
The advice, then, is to allow much more time than you think you need after the final clearcoat before any rubbing down/polishing.
I do plan to finish the PX10 in the classic white with black lugs (except for the seat tube, obviously). I'll avoid pure/brilliant white, though, and insted look for a very slight hint of warmth, as it should look closer to an aged/patinated finish, rather than straight out of the showroom and soulless.
I'm not sure about outlining, although if I were using blue I'd be tempted to outline in gold and not have the yellow lugs. Looks very classy.
Talking of which, I have a nice old Brooks Pro heading my way, to grace it (as I have on the Gitane Super Corsa/Olympic), and like you I have a nice set of SLJs I might mount, even though they're not period-correct.
That Peter Kohler bike is a good example of the cost vs usability of full period restoration. The much sought after duralumin frame with a defunct Ideale seat, that ancient derailleur on the rear, rubber ended Simplex skewers, so much on that bike is prohibitively expensive or just plain unobtainable.. even that type of downtube shifter, and do you go with an AVA (..or Atax) death stem on a bike you want to ride?
I've opted for some SLJ Simplex for mine, a later model stem with Philippe bars, Criterium shifters, and a Brooks seat - and Mafac pros rather than Dural brakes ..all good stuff and far less drama sourcing than going completely original. I am always on the lookout for parts online, but given the current crazy ebay pricing i will probably stick with the gear I have gathered over the past years.
BTW.. Black lugs would also be my preference over the yellow original lug colour scheme, are you going to give lug lining a try, adds a nice touch?
That said, I do scour small ads here in France, and come across stuff at surprisingly reasonable prices compared to Ebay. I've actually considered supplying parts which are hard to find outside France, in fact.
I recently refinished a '77 PS10 and chose to go for the bronze/gold rather than the original silver grey. I found a good match from a spray paint designed for auto wheels, which stated that it was highly resistant to stone chips. It covered well, although had a slightly gritty surface when dried, so I gace it two or three clear coats, which I rubbed down as much as I dared once it had hardened. It felt good, although I have a feeling that it has since hardened even more, as it feels less smoth than before. Or maybe I'm being paranoid...
The advice, then, is to allow much more time than you think you need after the final clearcoat before any rubbing down/polishing.
I do plan to finish the PX10 in the classic white with black lugs (except for the seat tube, obviously). I'll avoid pure/brilliant white, though, and insted look for a very slight hint of warmth, as it should look closer to an aged/patinated finish, rather than straight out of the showroom and soulless.
I'm not sure about outlining, although if I were using blue I'd be tempted to outline in gold and not have the yellow lugs. Looks very classy.
Talking of which, I have a nice old Brooks Pro heading my way, to grace it (as I have on the Gitane Super Corsa/Olympic), and like you I have a nice set of SLJs I might mount, even though they're not period-correct.
That Peter Kohler bike is a good example of the cost vs usability of full period restoration. The much sought after duralumin frame with a defunct Ideale seat, that ancient derailleur on the rear, rubber ended Simplex skewers, so much on that bike is prohibitively expensive or just plain unobtainable.. even that type of downtube shifter, and do you go with an AVA (..or Atax) death stem on a bike you want to ride?
I've opted for some SLJ Simplex for mine, a later model stem with Philippe bars, Criterium shifters, and a Brooks seat - and Mafac pros rather than Dural brakes ..all good stuff and far less drama sourcing than going completely original. I am always on the lookout for parts online, but given the current crazy ebay pricing i will probably stick with the gear I have gathered over the past years.
BTW.. Black lugs would also be my preference over the yellow original lug colour scheme, are you going to give lug lining a try, adds a nice touch?
Last edited by rmfrance; 10-01-19 at 11:11 AM.
#531
Senior Member
Here is a PX10 (UX10) that I am in the process of rebuilding. The first picture is the the fork with the factory writing of BL (blanc) and UX10. The second picture is the 'original' before I sent it out to be refinished. I have swapped out the original FD (Simplex), RD (Huret), shifters (Simplex), brake levers and brake calipers (Gran Compe), seatpost (original was rusted) and wheelset (700c). The original wheels were 27" non hooked rims with galvanized spokes. I will post pictures of the final build once I complete the project
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#532
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bronx, NYC
Posts: 1,885
Bikes: '19 Fuji Gran Fondo 1.5, '72 Peugeot PX10, '71ish Gitane Super Corsa, '78 Fuji Newest, '89 Fuji Ace, '94 Cannondale R600, early '70s LeJeune Pro project
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Here is a PX10 (UX10) that I am in the process of rebuilding. The first picture is the the fork with the factory writing of BL (blanc) and UX10. The second picture is the 'original' before I sent it out to be refinished. I have swapped out the original FD (Simplex), RD (Huret), shifters (Simplex), brake levers and brake calipers (Gran Compe), seatpost (original was rusted) and wheelset (700c). The original wheels were 27" non hooked rims with galvanized spokes. I will post pictures of the final build once I complete the project
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Untitled by irishbx4th, on Flickr
Untitled by irishbx4th, on Flickr
#533
Senior Member
^^^
I believe it is a '75/'76 but I am not an expert at dating Peugeot bikes. Unfortunately, it is way too small for me and too big for my daughter. I purchased this when I was checking out another bike. I talked the seller into a buy one get one free.
I believe it is a '75/'76 but I am not an expert at dating Peugeot bikes. Unfortunately, it is way too small for me and too big for my daughter. I purchased this when I was checking out another bike. I talked the seller into a buy one get one free.
#534
Senior Member
Finally finished the PX10 build.
#535
Senior Member
#536
Senior Member
#538
Rouleur
Not the first time I've posted, but hey - this thread is dedicated to the PX10 so why not?!?
#539
Full Member
Just built this one up from a frame. Alot of touch-up, and still not perfect, but original paint, and all original decals except for the Reynolds and Nervex decals. Kept the shifters and derailleurs all Simplex, though not period correct, and the wheelset (Ukai rims, Sunshine Pro hubs) may or may not ultimately stay with this bike. Put on an Ideale saddle rather than a Brooks, and used a campy two-bolt seatpost rather than a Simplex for cost reasons. But am really happy with the result. Shifting seems smooth on initial rides with the Suntour 14-24 hub (52-42 in front). Originally had a zip tie around the rear derailleur cable, but added twine & shellac and then cut off the zip tie for an arguably more period-correct look....
#540
rmfrance
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: SW France
Posts: 108
Bikes: 1968 Peugeot PX10, 1974 Peugeot PX10, 1964 Peugeot PX10, 1977 Peugeot PSN10, 1975 Gitane Super Olympic, 1978 Gitane Vuelta, c1958 Gitane Competition(?), 1983 Mercier?, 1981 Peugeot PF10, 1985 Peugeot PH501 Ventoux, 1965 Moulton M4 Speed
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I decided to use SLJ déraillieurs, rather than the originals, as I built the bike up from a bare frame to be ridden - and it's a great a ride as I'd hoped! I have yet to find the correct AVA spearpoint stem to complete the period feel.
#542
rmfrance
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: SW France
Posts: 108
Bikes: 1968 Peugeot PX10, 1974 Peugeot PX10, 1964 Peugeot PX10, 1977 Peugeot PSN10, 1975 Gitane Super Olympic, 1978 Gitane Vuelta, c1958 Gitane Competition(?), 1983 Mercier?, 1981 Peugeot PF10, 1985 Peugeot PH501 Ventoux, 1965 Moulton M4 Speed
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Thanks!
I'll replace that stem with the correct spearpoint AVA one and pop a better set of wheel on that I have put by, although for non-event riding I'll use another pair with clinchers.
I already love it - I waited a long time to find the right frame in my size. I'll try to post some pics of the renovation stages.
I'll replace that stem with the correct spearpoint AVA one and pop a better set of wheel on that I have put by, although for non-event riding I'll use another pair with clinchers.
I already love it - I waited a long time to find the right frame in my size. I'll try to post some pics of the renovation stages.
#543
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I picked up this 1971 PX-10E that’s completely original, down to the toe straps, and (probably) the tires. The paint is in very good condition and the chrome is virtually perfect. The chainrings and brake pads show little wear, but the delrin front derailleur mount has the typical crack. It’s not often I find an interesting bike nearby and in my size.
Plans are for a complete refurbishment before putting it back on the road.
Plans are for a complete refurbishment before putting it back on the road.
Last edited by Brad L; 08-25-20 at 06:31 PM.
#544
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Bikes: PRN10/E '77 Peugeot, '76 Peugeot PY10 - orsomethingorother, '78 Peugeot ST10, Peugeot '60 PLX10, Bertin '60 something C37, NRS3 Giant dualy, Something very light..
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That looks very clean and crisp in white with the contrasting black lugs, how are you finding the Brooks for comfort?
#545
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1982 pxn 10
I'm a fan of the early 80s Peugeots as I worked in a bike shop that sold a lot of them. I'd still like to find a UO 10 in my size one day. I've been working a bit on my 1982 PXN 10. The bike is pretty much all original and I did try to keep the bike French with a TA water bottle cage and christophe nylon toe clips and straps. The pedals are not original but they are atom 700s which are fine pedals. The shifters and front derailleur are not orignal as they are super LJs. The saddle is a San Marco Concor. It's my first time using one and I like it a lot.
The stronglight 106 is a beautiful crank but I'm tempted to replace it with a stronglight 93 to run smaller rings (maybe 50/37).
I am impressed with the Simplex SX 410 rear derailleur. Velobase says it can handle 30 teeth and it can. I had to shove the wheel all the way back into the drop outs to get it to stop the chain from chattering against the freewheel but the RD handles 30 teeth very cleanly. My daily rides have their share of 10 percent grades. They're not long but I appreciate the 37 inch low gear when I hit a few of them in a row. Try that with a campy RD,
13-30 6 speed new winner freewheel
The stronglight 106 is a beautiful crank but I'm tempted to replace it with a stronglight 93 to run smaller rings (maybe 50/37).
I am impressed with the Simplex SX 410 rear derailleur. Velobase says it can handle 30 teeth and it can. I had to shove the wheel all the way back into the drop outs to get it to stop the chain from chattering against the freewheel but the RD handles 30 teeth very cleanly. My daily rides have their share of 10 percent grades. They're not long but I appreciate the 37 inch low gear when I hit a few of them in a row. Try that with a campy RD,
13-30 6 speed new winner freewheel
Last edited by bikemig; 08-30-20 at 11:45 AM.
#546
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Bikes: '72 Peugeot PX-10, '09 A. Homer Hilsen, '78 Masi Gran Crit, '79 Echelon Spectra
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This thread is a huge inspiration. Keep them coming!
#547
rmfrance
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: SW France
Posts: 108
Bikes: 1968 Peugeot PX10, 1974 Peugeot PX10, 1964 Peugeot PX10, 1977 Peugeot PSN10, 1975 Gitane Super Olympic, 1978 Gitane Vuelta, c1958 Gitane Competition(?), 1983 Mercier?, 1981 Peugeot PF10, 1985 Peugeot PH501 Ventoux, 1965 Moulton M4 Speed
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Slightspeed: I'm pretty sure that what you have there is a PSN10 (N is for 'normale' = clinchers).
Great bikes and just one down from a PX10.
Great bikes and just one down from a PX10.
Last edited by rmfrance; 06-03-21 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Added reference to OP after using Quick Reply.
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#549
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I posted my 1982 PXN10 earlier but I finally dialed in the gearing. I swapped out the 144 bcd crank for an 86 bcd stronglight crank. I'm running 50/34 rings and 14-28 6 speed freewheel.
Last edited by bikemig; 07-01-21 at 07:15 AM.
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