New Cannondale Synapse vs. Another Endurance Bike?
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My new Cannondale Synapse arrived today. Preliminary observations:
1. The grey is darker than on Cannondale and retailer websites. Maybe my living room does not get enough light?
2. Frame is Made in Taiwan. Yay! The rose gold frameset I saw on eBay is Made in Indonesia: 2022 New Cannondale Synapse Carbon Endurance Bicycle Disc Frame Set Rose gold | eBay
3. Frame does not have a bottom bracket cover!? One is not listed on the Replacement Parts page of the Owner Manual Supplement.
4. Di2 wire to RD is too short and does not extend out of seat post. Cannot connect RD to Di2 battery; no test ride. Argh! Have to visit LBS tomorrow.
5. Bar tape wrapping job is noticeably worse than the factory bar tape wrap on my 2016.
The new Synapse likewise comes with 55 mm of spacers: (a) SI 25 mm tall funnel-shaped headset bearing top cap; (b) 15 mm spacer; (c) 3 x 5 mm spacers.
1. The grey is darker than on Cannondale and retailer websites. Maybe my living room does not get enough light?
2. Frame is Made in Taiwan. Yay! The rose gold frameset I saw on eBay is Made in Indonesia: 2022 New Cannondale Synapse Carbon Endurance Bicycle Disc Frame Set Rose gold | eBay
3. Frame does not have a bottom bracket cover!? One is not listed on the Replacement Parts page of the Owner Manual Supplement.
4. Di2 wire to RD is too short and does not extend out of seat post. Cannot connect RD to Di2 battery; no test ride. Argh! Have to visit LBS tomorrow.
5. Bar tape wrapping job is noticeably worse than the factory bar tape wrap on my 2016.
The new Synapse likewise comes with 55 mm of spacers: (a) SI 25 mm tall funnel-shaped headset bearing top cap; (b) 15 mm spacer; (c) 3 x 5 mm spacers.
Are you saying the rear derailer was not connected to the e-tube cable ?, or that the cable seemed too short ?. If you are lucky they put the B Junction in the seat tube and you might have access to add a longer cable ?. This is really an issue the shop should fix.
#27
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Sorry, that was not a good description. Both my other CF bikes have an opening near or under the bottom bracket shell that is accessible to help run cables and hoses through the frame, so does this new Synapse. But unlike the other two bikes, it does not have a cover to cover this opening!
The RD is connected to a Di2 wire but that wire is not long enough to plug into the Di2 battery. 12-speed Di2 bikes do not generally come from the factory with a junction. So I just need to replace that the RD Di2 wire with a longer one. It is the shop's issue, but I ordered this bike online from across the country.
The RD is connected to a Di2 wire but that wire is not long enough to plug into the Di2 battery. 12-speed Di2 bikes do not generally come from the factory with a junction. So I just need to replace that the RD Di2 wire with a longer one. It is the shop's issue, but I ordered this bike online from across the country.
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Sorry, that was not a good description. Both my other CF bikes have an opening near or under the bottom bracket shell that is accessible to help run cables and hoses through the frame, so does this new Synapse. But unlike the other two bikes, it does not have a cover to cover this opening!
The RD is connected to a Di2 wire but that wire is not long enough to plug into the Di2 battery. 12-speed Di2 bikes do not generally come from the factory with a junction. So I just need to replace that the RD Di2 wire with a longer one. It is the shop's issue, but I ordered this bike online from across the country.
The RD is connected to a Di2 wire but that wire is not long enough to plug into the Di2 battery. 12-speed Di2 bikes do not generally come from the factory with a junction. So I just need to replace that the RD Di2 wire with a longer one. It is the shop's issue, but I ordered this bike online from across the country.
I would be screaming at the dealer to be sending you free a new R derailer, 400mm or whatever cable.
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Probably just need to pull the RD wire out of the frame more. However make certain it's not kinked or looped around something inside the frame first.
You had this sent straight to you in the box to put together? Or did the LBS build it out.
You had this sent straight to you in the box to put together? Or did the LBS build it out.
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As follow up, with a battery, a front derailer and a rear derailer, how does the single cable off the battery connect to both derailers if it doesn’t use a B Junction box ?. I have 11 spd. so use the B Junction. How did they do it differently on 12 spd. Asking as I’m about to buy a bike with Di2 12.
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As follow up, with a battery, a front derailer and a rear derailer, how does the single cable off the battery connect to both derailers if it doesn’t use a B Junction box ?. I have 11 spd. so use the B Junction. How did they do it differently on 12 spd. Asking as I’m about to buy a bike with Di2 12.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 04-10-24 at 03:38 PM.
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I know it’s not the end of the world, but Shimano really should go fully wireless to avoid all these niggles. Getting rid of cables and internal routing should be one of the big advantages of electronic shifting.
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But then one would need two batteries, one per derailleur, for a 2x drivetrain.
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#35
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I also like the idea of one battery to charge instead of multiple batteries to charge. Though by the time I decide to get a new bike, I might not have that choice if I want the latest and greatest of that time. So I won't bemoan it that much and just get what's available then. Whether it's 1, 2, 3 or 50 batteries!
Two batteries and there is twice the chance that I'll ride with one of them not able to do what ever it's supposed to to.
Or am I understanding you to say, PeteHski , that SRAM can work all the components from one battery when one of the batteries is dead? I didn't think they were connected.
Two batteries and there is twice the chance that I'll ride with one of them not able to do what ever it's supposed to to.
Or am I understanding you to say, PeteHski , that SRAM can work all the components from one battery when one of the batteries is dead? I didn't think they were connected.
Last edited by Iride01; 04-11-24 at 12:51 PM.
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On my last group ride one woman had forgotten to charge her Di2 so she only had enough juice to shift the RD and was stuck on the small ring for the last half of the tide.
Or am I understanding you to say, PeteHski , that SRAM can work all the components from one battery when one of the batteries is dead? I didn't think they were connected.
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We had a saying way back in the entertainment business that a $1000 mike with a wire was better than a $50,000 wireless mike. In essence, wired component are generally more reliable and I think Shimano understands this,
Last edited by Steve B.; 04-12-24 at 06:44 AM.
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#38
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Unless whoever was using the mic trips over the wire.
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Or am I understanding you to say, PeteHski , that SRAM can work all the components from one battery when one of the batteries is dead? I didn't think they were connected.
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I don’t think that’s really comparable. I just don’t like the Shimano wired setup. At least it’s now semi-wireless but still not ideal. A fully wireless solution just eliminates any faffing with wires and makes battery replacement a 5 second task.
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It's not exactly the same analogy with Shimano IMO. I prefer the Shimano set up, but the shifters are still wireless, the wires are essentially to allow for a large capacity battery for the derailleurs. I've had extensive use on my wireless Sram XC bike this season, it's been very reliable across some very inclimate conditions.
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So far I'm actually liking the semi-wireless of my Ultegra di2 over the AXS on my XC bike. The Sram works fine, but I've found battery life to be slightly annoying on the XC bike...enough that I ride/race with a spare, especially on long rides. It might just be that I'm shifting that much more on the MTB, so maybe not an issue on your Etap? I haven't had the di2 long, but the battery life seems insanely long.
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It is much harder for someone to swap their depleted battery for your fully charged one at an event when you are using the loo.
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#44
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No one want's your batteries. Most won't know how to get them much less that they are even there.
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Happy to report that the SmartSense battery cradle was quite simple to remove with reference to page 24 of the SmartSense manual: 022_rev2-_smartsense-oms_138691__en.ashx (cannondale.com)
Except that the bolts holding the battery cradle are not M4 as specified in the manual. On mine they are M2.5.
My bike was shipped to me without the front light installed and I am not using the included seat post or seat, so no need to deal with lights or radar for now.
Except that the bolts holding the battery cradle are not M4 as specified in the manual. On mine they are M2.5.
My bike was shipped to me without the front light installed and I am not using the included seat post or seat, so no need to deal with lights or radar for now.