bfromcolo

OK this has been entertaining, but lest we lose track of the original question let me try again. I am having a problem rejoining links with my chain tool. Specifically sometimes I don't get everything aligned just right and damage the outer plate when trying to push the pin through. Perhaps the chain in question is not designed to be broken and rejoined. Perhaps I don't spend enough time cleaning my guns. Maybe I don't ride my oldest bike enough. Or fondle my brass parts too much. But assuming this was not the case here, how do you make sure everything is in alignment before you try to push the pin through?

OneTinSloth

a couple questions: what chain tool are you using? and when you re-join the chain, are you trying to do it under tension, or is the chain slack while you are pushing the pin back through? a tip here would be to have the chain be slack while you push the pin back. a good way to do this is to either take the chain off the chainrings, or make a little tool out of a spoke to hold the chain. if the chain has tension in it while you're pushing the pin through, it can move the links out of alignment.

also, some chain tools aren't made as precisely as others. i use park CT-3s at work, and i have a topeak droid chain tool for on the road repairs, and a shimano HG chain tool for home use, all three are excellent, with my favorite being the CT-3.

if you're using a quality tool, and the chain doesn't have tension in it, and you still have problems, then all i can say is practice makes perfect.

bfromcolo

This is a Park CT-5. It is under some small amount of tension with the chain on the small-small combo, I can take the chain off the front ring altogether and see if that is the issue. Thanks.

HillRider

No, and I didn't say Crap-anolo either. Both are ridiculous generalizations.

DMF 

Image is clickable.

dredge3

Just did my first link removal (new derailleur) in 25 years. Totally flimsy links. I used to split my chain quite a bit to soak in oil etc. Then you used a split link...easy. Still removed links with tool to shorten etc.Today, as I pushed the pin back in, I thought it was going to bend. Instead of finding is way into the hole,it felt like it was forcing a new hole. Went ok in the end.A little too stiff for my liking. Why are they all endless chains now?

Tabor

I had an ultegra chain that was practically new fail on me. I replaced the pin with a new special shimano pin and all has been well so far.

HillRider

Derailleur chains have been "endless" for decades. In fact, the current crop of removable/reusable master links from SRAM, Wipperman, etc is a fairly recent development.

cadillacmike68

No, it's called proper lubrication and cleaning.

Deanster04

If you try and use an older chain tool on the 10 spd chain you probably will build in a failure. I am using a Pedros chain tool for 10 spd and a very old one (brand???) for non 10spd chains. I learned the hard way that the hollow pin chains need to have the special link by Shimano and Campy to be successful. I am getting away from Record ultrathin chains and have gone to Veloce 10spd Ultrathin with the solid pin. no problems getting the chain to work with the old pin. On the hollow pin chain I use a Connex removable link when I size the chain and hookup the chain to the build. I have purchased a minitool Topek w/chain tool 9spd or older and a new Park I-Beam tool with the 10spd Chain Tool.

ricohman

I have never followed Shimano's rules about breaking the chain.
I break the chain where I want and peen the pins after I put it back together.
Never had a failure.

Deanster04

If you are able to do this with a hollow pin chain let me know.

OneTinSloth

i use a 15 year old CT-3 for all types of chains, including 10-speed on a daily basis on hundreds of chains per month with no problems whatsoever. don't believe the hype about 10 speed specific tools. in fact, the only chain tool i've ever had problems with has been the pedro's one. the (NON-REPLACABLE unless you buy the whole handle) pin bends a tiny bit, and then every shimano pin breaks when you start to push it through, the chain holder part of it breaks off...it's a BS tool. i like a lot of the other pedro's tools, but not the chain tool.

dredge3

Its decades since I owned a bike. Stopped at age 14/15 am now 42, you work it out
So this recent development means they are going back to how they used to be?

rmfnla

[QUOTE=old_alfie;4998069]I'm not sure.

Your post seems to endorse unnecessary "maintenance" because it's fun. My point is that it's best to do maintenance only when it is necessary, not just because there's no crossword puzzle handy.

Rubbing oil (Danish or otherwise) on a shotgun stock is fairly benign but continually breaking a bike chain will result in a lot of weak links.

I know it's fashionable to bash Shimano but they developed their chain design to cope with the additional stresses caused by Hyperglide gear teeth.

Master links are so easy to use that this should be a non-issue, regardless of whose chain you use.

Al1943

The only time I remove a chain is to replace it. I get between 5000 and 7000 miles out of a Shimano Ultegra or Dura-Ace or Campagnolo chain. I clean them once a week on the bikes.

Al

smurf hunter

Speaking of chain pins, for 10 speed chains is a different chain tool needed? I've got an old chain tool I used to use on 8 and 9 speed MTB chains, and it seems too large of a ping for my 105 10spd chain.

bfromcolo

[QUOTE=rmfnla;5013231]OK I am the OP in this case. I have some old bikes and live in a very hilly neighborhood. I am routinely trying out new combos, smaller chain rings, larger freewheels, mtn bike rear deraillers to try and get a combo on a double that I can live with. So I have been breaking the chain more than normal. I think a 38 front and a 32 rear give me what I need until I get a road bike with a triple front or a compact double. Anyway none of this is anything other than fitting the chain properly to the combo dujour.

Jed19

Do not spend money on this tool, as you can make your own. I made mine using the flat part of a wire coat-hanger. All I did was bend the piece into a V, then bend the top of the V in about half an inch at both ends. It works great, and you are also recycling those ubiquitous wire cloth-hangers that come with your dry-cleanings.

Regards,

lukeC

spend money? its listed as $2.50 - Thats not much money...
Although I dont' quite get what it does exactly

Deanster04

Sounds like you are very practiced. Are you able to use the CT-3 on the new hollow pin chains and do you use the special pin or can you simple reuse the old hollow pin?
I have problems putting the old solid 10 spd links back in with the spacing on my conventionial chain tool and get a proper fit without using an old link for backing. If you have a secret let me know.

OneTinSloth

the hollow pin chains are exactly the same as solid pin chains, the same tool works for them as well. i always use a brand new connector pin when re-installing a chain, i have no reason not to, as we've got them in stock, and not using it could lead to a failure for which i would be responsible.

DMF 

Coat hanger wire breaks after a few flexes.

A chain grabber grabs both end of a broken chain and keeps the tension off while you install pin or link. Makes the work a lot easier. Possibly the best $2.50 I've spent on a bike.

Jed19

My coat hanger wire home-made tool has lasted me the better part of two years thus far. If it ever breaks, I am sure I can always find another wire hanger. It is just not about spending the money, but about recycling too.

DMF 

Then don't dry-clean.