Is it realistic to weld/braze on cable guides etc onto a vintage frame?
#26
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I added water bottle mounts to a Raleigh, turned out real nice, I didn't lose any sleep over this either.
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Thanks fellas. Saw that one. beautiful bike. And I was getting pretty excited. Until I read that the fork was not original. I'm kind of like that.
What I'm not like is too dogmatic though, PaintIt. As far as adding stuff to this frame, I personally wouldn't do it but I don't see all that much harm in it.
Now, if you were going to do it to a 60's Cinelli or something ....
What I'm not like is too dogmatic though, PaintIt. As far as adding stuff to this frame, I personally wouldn't do it but I don't see all that much harm in it.
Now, if you were going to do it to a 60's Cinelli or something ....
#28
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FeCycles is in STL. Custom steel builder. I don't think the price will come in as low as you want but you won't know unless you ask. Brazeons won't hurt the bike, especially if silver is used. Adding guides and bottle bosses isn't rocket surgery. With a little research and downloading the free version of the Paterek manual, you could do it yourself within your budget. Nova Cycle Supply has the parts. Look for Harris 56% silver and flux at a local welding shop. A torch that will do the job can be found at a big box hardware store. Go for it. It's fun.
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This is fantastic looking! Yeah, just the kind of little additions that bring the bike up. So this kind of thing isn't crazy. This is what I was wondering. Thanks so much Michael Angelo
#30
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Lowes and HD usually stock small oxy/MAPP torches. They cost about $60 and wiil work for brazeons. If you end up taking this to the next step and playing around with replacing tubes or framebuilding, this torch will be too small. For that you will need a real torch- oxy/acetelyne or oxy/propane.
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Used to not like clamped-on guides on bikes...but when I finally got to build up an old bike (1972) that did not have them, I learned to like the looks of the chromed clamp-on guides especially as the frame had chrome accents/lugs on it that it nicely picked up/related to.
In the end, it's all up to you you can configure and style your own bike any way you need or want to, but if you are trying to build something that will be "period correct" looking to most C&Ver's you might re-consider using the clamped-on stuff.
JMOs
Chombi
In the end, it's all up to you you can configure and style your own bike any way you need or want to, but if you are trying to build something that will be "period correct" looking to most C&Ver's you might re-consider using the clamped-on stuff.
JMOs
Chombi
#32
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Chombi, do those chromed clamp on guides work very well? I am thinking of adding a second set of braze ons to my TX700 at the seat tube. The TX is going to be used some as a gravel grinder and fear the clamp ons will not hold up.
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#34
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#35
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Just a couple of tips though, as you might notice, some old bikes exhibit some scratching of the paint under cable clamps because of friction and sharp edges on them. Some people don't seem to mind this as those areas are almost permanently covered from view by the clamps anyway, as long as you do not move them around after you first install them, but some people do special preparation on the clamps to keep them from damaging the paint underneath.
I've seen clamps with clear cello tape carefully cut to follow the shape of the clamp (with sticky side to the clamp) used as padding/protection for the paint. I on the other hand prefer to just smooth out all the sharp and rough edges and surfaces under the clamp with my Dremel instead, using my fingers to feel the bottom surfaces of the clamps as I go to make sure I get rid of all the sharp and rough surfaces. I found out that as long as I tighten the clamps enough, it would not need the sharp edges to bite into the paint to stay in place. You have to just do it by feel to determine if you have enough tension on the clamps to keep them from moving.
Another tip, as the clamps are usually chromed steel, they will tend to rust if you expose them to moisture/rain enough. Try to dry them off right away with also a good blast of WD40 if they get wet to minimize this. If the rust does get a hold on the clamp, don't let it go too far before cleaning the rust off or replacing the clamps as the rust will start attacking the finish on your frame.
Sounds tedious, but that's just part of owning a bike with clamped on guides. And as for the rust concerns, I've seen enough brazed on guides on top tubes get really rusty to know that having brazed-on guides does not mean you can avoid the same problems entirely....and they are actually harder to fix if they do get rusty.
Chombi
#36
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you guys are all too much.....
the answer is rivnuts!!
dont even need to repaint the bike,
just remember to use steel rivnuts on steel frames, and alu rivnuts on alu frames.
I did my cardinalli in the basement- turned out great, only need an 7mm drill and a stainless m5 long bolt and nut.
I use stainless as it is harder.
I put some sealent on the hole before riveting it in, then wipe off the excess.
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/com...ke-292334.html
the answer is rivnuts!!
dont even need to repaint the bike,
just remember to use steel rivnuts on steel frames, and alu rivnuts on alu frames.
I did my cardinalli in the basement- turned out great, only need an 7mm drill and a stainless m5 long bolt and nut.
I use stainless as it is harder.
I put some sealent on the hole before riveting it in, then wipe off the excess.
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/com...ke-292334.html
#37
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Sure they do, that's why they were used for many years before brazed on guides became the standard.
Just a couple of tips though, as you might notice, some old bikes exhibit some scratching of the paint under cable clamps because of friction and sharp edges on them. Some people don't seem to mind this as those areas are almost permanently covered from view by the clamps anyway, as long as you do not move them around after you first install them, but some people do special preparation on the clamps to keep them from damaging the paint underneath.
I've seen clamps with clear cello tape carefully cut to follow the shape of the clamp (with sticky side to the clamp) used as padding/protection for the paint. I on the other hand prefer to just smooth out all the sharp and rough edges and surfaces under the clamp with my Dremel instead, using my fingers to feel the bottom surfaces of the clamps as I go to make sure I get rid of all the sharp and rough surfaces. I found out that as long as I tighten the clamps enough, it would not need the sharp edges to bite into the paint to stay in place. You have to just do it by feel to determine if you have enough tension on the clamps to keep them from moving.
Another tip, as the clamps are usually chromed steel, they will tend to rust if you expose them to moisture/rain enough. Try to dry them off right away with also a good blast of WD40 if they get wet to minimize this. If the rust does get a hold on the clamp, don't let it go too far before cleaning the rust off or replacing the clamps as the rust will start attacking the finish on your frame.
Sounds tedious, but that's just part of owning a bike with clamped on guides. And as for the rust concerns, I've seen enough brazed on guides on top tubes get really rusty to know that having brazed-on guides does not mean you can avoid the same problems entirely....and they are actually harder to fix if they do get rusty.
Chombi
Just a couple of tips though, as you might notice, some old bikes exhibit some scratching of the paint under cable clamps because of friction and sharp edges on them. Some people don't seem to mind this as those areas are almost permanently covered from view by the clamps anyway, as long as you do not move them around after you first install them, but some people do special preparation on the clamps to keep them from damaging the paint underneath.
I've seen clamps with clear cello tape carefully cut to follow the shape of the clamp (with sticky side to the clamp) used as padding/protection for the paint. I on the other hand prefer to just smooth out all the sharp and rough edges and surfaces under the clamp with my Dremel instead, using my fingers to feel the bottom surfaces of the clamps as I go to make sure I get rid of all the sharp and rough surfaces. I found out that as long as I tighten the clamps enough, it would not need the sharp edges to bite into the paint to stay in place. You have to just do it by feel to determine if you have enough tension on the clamps to keep them from moving.
Another tip, as the clamps are usually chromed steel, they will tend to rust if you expose them to moisture/rain enough. Try to dry them off right away with also a good blast of WD40 if they get wet to minimize this. If the rust does get a hold on the clamp, don't let it go too far before cleaning the rust off or replacing the clamps as the rust will start attacking the finish on your frame.
Sounds tedious, but that's just part of owning a bike with clamped on guides. And as for the rust concerns, I've seen enough brazed on guides on top tubes get really rusty to know that having brazed-on guides does not mean you can avoid the same problems entirely....and they are actually harder to fix if they do get rusty.
Chombi
But it does appear it's not totally crazy to have these additions added on. Now it will be about budget. And as you say kc0yef, ensuring I find a capable builder!
#38
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Many years ago, the guides and stops were part of the bike. According to Dave Moulton, it was Colnago that decided that brazons were bad. Their stated reason was that the heat weakened the frame. The real reason was that their build cost went way down without those pesky brazons. The first brazing I did was to add cable guides and canti bosses to an old Peugeot to turn it into a cross bike. The frame hasn't failed, the canti bosses haven't fallen off during braking, the world hasn't ended. It's just metal and fire. Like I said before, it ain't rocket surgery.
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Colnago's marketing department was renowned for turning cost-saving measures into technical advantages. The straight-blade fork is another example of Colnago marketing prowess.
#41
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Blame it all on the unicrown fork that started the trend to uglification of most bikes after the 80's......
JMOs, of course
Chombi
#44
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I did my first two frames with the cheap oxy/MAPP torch from Lowes. It will work but it is a PITA when heating the bottom bracket shell. The oxy canister WILL run out at the worst time. The flame temperature is very close to OA but the flame is small and hard to use without localized overheating. It will do the job for small jobs though.
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I did this to my wifes Mercian when I had it painted. I think the brazed bits were about $8 / item at that time done and painted in the Medici plant. Dark green Imron if anyone was interested.
Brake cable guides
down-tube shifter bosses
1 set of waterbottle bosses.
Brake cable guides
down-tube shifter bosses
1 set of waterbottle bosses.
#46
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I have an oxy/acetylene torch but the tanks were leased. I could go dig that out of the garage and pick up a couple small tanks from Lowe's. Though I don't want my first crack at it to be on this frame.
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Beyond that, the Oxy-MAPP torches from Bernz-O-Matic work perfectly for such projects. The plain old MAPP torches do get hot enough for silver brazing, but the flame is much too big for precise work.
#49
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Another source for tubing is Aircraft Spruce. Nova's lowest shipping option is about $20 so you may as well order as much as possible from them. You'll be happier using your OA torch than the little ones from Lowes or HD. You can get pieces of steel in different shapes and thicknesses for practice from Lowes or HD, shouldn't cost much.
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Another source for tubing is Aircraft Spruce. Nova's lowest shipping option is about $20 so you may as well order as much as possible from them. You'll be happier using your OA torch than the little ones from Lowes or HD. You can get pieces of steel in different shapes and thicknesses for practice from Lowes or HD, shouldn't cost much.
Does the shoe fit?
ooOOOoooo