Favorit ID ?
#26
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Thanks for all the quick replies and helpful advice! Just to give you an update on the project: I have now managed to open up the bottom bracket. Unfortunately, it did not work with only the C-clamp, but I had to heat up the cranks to get the cotter pins hammered out. I only found a total of 20 ball bearings but there were some metallic splinters so now I am wondering if the two missing ball bearings could have been crushed and the splinters were causing the rattling sound. The crank spindle seems alright in my eyes (unfortunately still not allowed to upload photos): there are two small dents in the left ball bearing track but I think I will anyway put the axle back since I am unable to find a replacing one, and hope it does not matter too much. Hopefully it will last another 50 years!
#27
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Location: Alta California
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Thanks for all the quick replies and helpful advice! Just to give you an update on the project: I have now managed to open up the bottom bracket. Unfortunately, it did not work with only the C-clamp, but I had to heat up the cranks to get the cotter pins hammered out. I only found a total of 20 ball bearings but there were some metallic splinters so now I am wondering if the two missing ball bearings could have been crushed and the splinters were causing the rattling sound. The crank spindle seems alright in my eyes (unfortunately still not allowed to upload photos): there are two small dents in the left ball bearing track but I think I will anyway put the axle back since I am unable to find a replacing one, and hope it does not matter too much. Hopefully it will last another 50 years!
thank you for the update
if you need to resort to hammering to get the crank cotters removed it is important to support the backside of the crank head solidly on an anvil or similar so that the impact of the hammer blows goes only to the crank cotter and is not transmitted to the bearings and the races otherwise it is possible to brinnel (dent) the races
conceivable that the dents you found may be the result of hammering
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#28
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thank you for the update
if you need to resort to hammering to get the crank cotters removed it is important to support the backside of the crank head solidly on an anvil or similar so that the impact of the hammer blows goes only to the crank cotter and is not transmitted to the bearings and the races otherwise it is possible to brinnel (dent) the races
conceivable that the dents you found may be the result of hammering
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thank you for the update
if you need to resort to hammering to get the crank cotters removed it is important to support the backside of the crank head solidly on an anvil or similar so that the impact of the hammer blows goes only to the crank cotter and is not transmitted to the bearings and the races otherwise it is possible to brinnel (dent) the races
conceivable that the dents you found may be the result of hammering
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#29
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Thread Starter
I have parts including original crank and bottom bracket, brake levers and derailleurs if interested
#30
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a member over at thecabe, Jesper, is seeking some of these Favorit parts for a machine they have
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/fa...h-bike.180080/
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#31
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Evansville Indiana
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Bikes: 77 Le Tour 2, 75 Travler 12 speed, 80 collegant,79 FF Suburban 5 speed positron and 2 95 autobikes 73 Schwinn Twinn De Lux with Atom brake on the rear ,Freesprit (england ) 10 speed yea 73 Schwinn Super Sport, 73 Schwinn Breeze, 69 Collegiate
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1972 Favorit F12
1972 Favorie F12 Unique example of cold War bicycle. Presently fited with a gen 1 dura ace set front and rear derailleur. I have ordered original front and rear Favorite derailleurs. Question very peculiar threading to the fr I nt derailleur does anyone have a picture how the threading is done? I expect the cable housing goes directly to the outlet on the bottom but how to set without clipping the chain?
#32
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cable path for the Favorit pushrod front gear mech is killer awful
at one point it must make a right angle turn
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cable path for the Favorit pushrod front gear mech is killer awful
at one point it must make a right angle turn
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#33
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
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Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
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I noticed from the photos that these bike's cables are wound counter-clockwise, like Campagnolo, unlike all of the rest of the world's cables.
It always throws me when working on bikes with such cables, trying to twist the end before feeding it into a housing or ferrule and it just opens up.
It always throws me when working on bikes with such cables, trying to twist the end before feeding it into a housing or ferrule and it just opens up.