Experiences with the new crop of disc brake equipped road bikes?
#226
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@Grasschopper let me know if you want to chat SRAM levers and HY/RDs some time. Or you can ask @DrIsotope for his personal experience. I use mine with Campy levers but the deal is the same.
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#227
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I buy my M515 pads on Amazon in a box of 4 pairs for $20, and you can find even cheaper-- order straight from China and get 4 pairs for under $8. OEM Shimano pads are only about $10 a pair. Even at my LBS, organic pads are ~$15 a pair.
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Everyone comments on the superior modulation of disc brakes. Personally I have found them to also have a very nice smooth progressive feel to them.
But also rim brakes are very good too. They do not feel quite as smooth but I have no problem applying just as much braking force as I want and when I want it with a rim brake.
The only exception would be carbon rims in the wet but I haven't tried the latest rim/pad combinations so I don't know how good it is now.
But also rim brakes are very good too. They do not feel quite as smooth but I have no problem applying just as much braking force as I want and when I want it with a rim brake.
The only exception would be carbon rims in the wet but I haven't tried the latest rim/pad combinations so I don't know how good it is now.
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Mark Twain once said, "Learn to ride a bicycle. You will not regret it if you live. I guess your response is the modern version of that classic statement.
25,000 or so miles on the Pedal Force 'no-name' carbon frame with nary an issue. My LOOK KG386 got a split in the top tube when I fell on it, though.
25,000 or so miles on the Pedal Force 'no-name' carbon frame with nary an issue. My LOOK KG386 got a split in the top tube when I fell on it, though.
I sold a Look 555 a few years back and enjoyed it for about 30K miles. I suppose almost surprising how the popularity of Look has fallen off in America. We did see Look represented in the TdF this year tho with their most distinctive integrated head tube/steerer frame design which looks pretty trick but doesn't seem to enjoy the popularity many other big brand bikes have in the US at least. Just another PITA integrated frameset design bowing to fashion and perception of improved aerodynamics.
Last edited by Campag4life; 08-10-17 at 02:16 PM.
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Everyone comments on the superior modulation of disc brakes. Personally I have found them to also have a very nice smooth progressive feel to them.
But also rim brakes are very good too. They do not feel quite as smooth but I have no problem applying just as much braking force as I want and when I want it with a rim brake.
The only exception would be carbon rims in the wet but I haven't tried the latest rim/pad combinations so I don't know how good it is now.
But also rim brakes are very good too. They do not feel quite as smooth but I have no problem applying just as much braking force as I want and when I want it with a rim brake.
The only exception would be carbon rims in the wet but I haven't tried the latest rim/pad combinations so I don't know how good it is now.
Us talented F1 guys...we wheelie to the line flashing our pearly whites to the crowd like Sagan...only a little slower.
#231
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One of the supposed benefits of discs is you save money by not having to replace rims so frequently.
So I need to replace my son-in-laws BB7 pads. Apparently they were contaminated with a tiny amount of oil. So I wander into my LBS and ask for replacements. $28 for a pair, apparently on sale. Are you kidding??? I can get good rim brake inserts on EBay for $3 a pair.
I can order replacement Mavic CXP 22 rims for $20 each! It takes me 60 minutes to relace new rims over worn out ones, by appropriately reusing existing spokes.
So replacing rims on rim-brake wheels is cheaper than replacing just disc brake pads.
And rims tracks are far easier to deal with if they get 'contaminated' or any such nonsense.
Discs: it is not just the boat-anchor weight penalty, they are too expensive to maintain.
So I need to replace my son-in-laws BB7 pads. Apparently they were contaminated with a tiny amount of oil. So I wander into my LBS and ask for replacements. $28 for a pair, apparently on sale. Are you kidding??? I can get good rim brake inserts on EBay for $3 a pair.
I can order replacement Mavic CXP 22 rims for $20 each! It takes me 60 minutes to relace new rims over worn out ones, by appropriately reusing existing spokes.
So replacing rims on rim-brake wheels is cheaper than replacing just disc brake pads.
And rims tracks are far easier to deal with if they get 'contaminated' or any such nonsense.
Discs: it is not just the boat-anchor weight penalty, they are too expensive to maintain.
You can buy disc brake pads cheap as any rim brake insert...you just got to look for them. I got them free several times.
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One of the supposed benefits of discs is you save money by not having to replace rims so frequently.
So I need to replace my son-in-laws BB7 pads. Apparently they were contaminated with a tiny amount of oil. So I wander into my LBS and ask for replacements. $28 for a pair, apparently on sale. Are you kidding??? I can get good rim brake inserts on EBay for $3 a pair.
I can order replacement Mavic CXP 22 rims for $20 each! It takes me 60 minutes to relace new rims over worn out ones, by appropriately reusing existing spokes.
So replacing rims on rim-brake wheels is cheaper than replacing just disc brake pads.
And rims tracks are far easier to deal with if they get 'contaminated' or any such nonsense.
Discs: it is not just the boat-anchor weight penalty, they are too expensive to maintain.
So I need to replace my son-in-laws BB7 pads. Apparently they were contaminated with a tiny amount of oil. So I wander into my LBS and ask for replacements. $28 for a pair, apparently on sale. Are you kidding??? I can get good rim brake inserts on EBay for $3 a pair.
I can order replacement Mavic CXP 22 rims for $20 each! It takes me 60 minutes to relace new rims over worn out ones, by appropriately reusing existing spokes.
So replacing rims on rim-brake wheels is cheaper than replacing just disc brake pads.
And rims tracks are far easier to deal with if they get 'contaminated' or any such nonsense.
Discs: it is not just the boat-anchor weight penalty, they are too expensive to maintain.
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Eh the only question I really have or had was arty they better than BB7s and is it worth my money to upgrade them. From what I've read YES they are better than BB7s and yeah it's probably worth it to upgrade. I mean why hate the brakes when I don't have to? Other than $$$ is there any compelling reason to NOT switch from my current BB7s?
#234
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Eh the only question I really have or had was arty they better than BB7s and is it worth my money to upgrade them. From what I've read YES they are better than BB7s and yeah it's probably worth it to upgrade. I mean why hate the brakes when I don't have to? Other than $$$ is there any compelling reason to NOT switch from my current BB7s?
All that said, the marriage of Campy and SRAM (or older Shimano) levers to HY/RD calipers is not seamless as TRP specifically targeted the latest Shimano SLR-EV long pull brake levers with their design. Luckily, some dude with too much time on his hands (me over the winter) created a custom arm that solves all the world's HY/RD-with-a-short-pull-lever issues
#235
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How much improved is the stopping with the modified arms? I panic-stopped (to avoid slamming into the back of the car in front of me) so suddenly that I lifted my rear tire about 4" off the ground, and burped my tubeless front tire out of the bead. Definitely not having any lever travel issues anymore.
#236
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What is it that a rear disc brake can do that a light application of the front disc brake can't? Or that a weak rear (cantilever) can't (rim wear aside)? I've had a similar discussion before which didn't result in any real answer but I'm sure you have a good reason. I put lots of miles on a mixed setup myself (commuting) which didn't include any mountain descents. I am also a mid-weight rider who doesn't typically do mountain descents, just short steep stuff, and who relies heavily on the front brake for most slowing and stopping.
It's the long descents on hot days I'm worried about, I don't think it would be an issue in day-to-day riding. Rear brake lets you slow (a bit) while the front brake cools.
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I would say a resounding 'no.' Having used a BB7 on the road for many miles (those 25,000 miles on the Pedal Force to be exact), all it took was one ride with the HY/RDs to convince me of the tech. They aren't flawless (I'd like them to weigh less and be a little smaller) but the truth is that a hydro lever plus hydro caliper weighs about as much as a mechanical lever and a HY/RD caliper and the power of these calipers is something to experience. And you get the added benefits of not having that weight hanging off your handlebars and not needing to worry about hydro lines all over your bike.
All that said, the marriage of Campy and SRAM (or older Shimano) levers to HY/RD calipers is not seamless as TRP specifically targeted the latest Shimano SLR-EV long pull brake levers with their design. Luckily, some dude with too much time on his hands (me over the winter) created a custom arm that solves all the world's HY/RD-with-a-short-pull-lever issues
All that said, the marriage of Campy and SRAM (or older Shimano) levers to HY/RD calipers is not seamless as TRP specifically targeted the latest Shimano SLR-EV long pull brake levers with their design. Luckily, some dude with too much time on his hands (me over the winter) created a custom arm that solves all the world's HY/RD-with-a-short-pull-lever issues
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This isn't relevant to the thread, but neither is almost anything else in the last 10 pages.
Big one on the right is Jack Mountain, the highest peak in the Pasayten Wilderness. You can make out Baker, Crater, Snowfield, Colonial and Pyramid, it's the best seat in the house.
Now, between the conflagrations in BC and the nearby Diamond Creek fire, you can stand in the same spot and not see the peaks.
This is the end of the highest road in the state, at about 7,500 feet. The other end of the road is down at 2,200. It's not a long road. It's cool at the top, and heats up as you go down. It was 105 F earlier out there. So
Big one on the right is Jack Mountain, the highest peak in the Pasayten Wilderness. You can make out Baker, Crater, Snowfield, Colonial and Pyramid, it's the best seat in the house.
Now, between the conflagrations in BC and the nearby Diamond Creek fire, you can stand in the same spot and not see the peaks.
This is the end of the highest road in the state, at about 7,500 feet. The other end of the road is down at 2,200. It's not a long road. It's cool at the top, and heats up as you go down. It was 105 F earlier out there. So
#241
Senior Member
This (what TRP suggested I do to make things work):
Or this (what I did and what TRP is now telling customers to do):
#242
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I rented that 2016 Giant for three days for a little over U$D 40, so I'm not complaining too much. I just used the front brakes a little more than usual, as those pads seemed fine. Not to mention, with rim brakes, don't have to worry about this:
Source is r e d d i t, dunno why BF censor software auto-deletes that from the URL.
Source is r e d d i t, dunno why BF censor software auto-deletes that from the URL.
I have been thinking about getting a tattoo and been toying around with various ideas. This might be it
#243
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I don't like DOT purely based on the fact that it is pretty corrosive stuff. It can destroy paint or other finishes if you happen to spill and not do a good job cleaning up. With mineral oil you can get it all over place and not really hurt anything. Could probably use it in a pinch as after shave if needed.
For me I am a bit clumsy and really, really like not having to worry about spilling when using mineral oil.
The only companies I am aware of that use mineral oil are Magura and Shimano while I have used Hope, Formulas and Avids that required DOT. Going back a long time I remember certain brakes required DOT3 and some DOT4.
I could not even begin to make a performance based comparison of the two fluids however.
All of this said, if you get SRAM discs which require DOT fluid, odds are you won't need to bleed, maintain or deal with the DOT very often at all. Should be a minimal issue.
For me I am a bit clumsy and really, really like not having to worry about spilling when using mineral oil.
The only companies I am aware of that use mineral oil are Magura and Shimano while I have used Hope, Formulas and Avids that required DOT. Going back a long time I remember certain brakes required DOT3 and some DOT4.
I could not even begin to make a performance based comparison of the two fluids however.
All of this said, if you get SRAM discs which require DOT fluid, odds are you won't need to bleed, maintain or deal with the DOT very often at all. Should be a minimal issue.
Excellent comments Matt and I notice this is your first post and you made it an informative one. Welcome to the forum and thanks for your contribution.
Your comments about organic versus semi-metallic disk pads is remindful of same discussion on performance car forums.
Can you talk a bit about your thinking relative to mineral versus DOT fluid..which brand brakes are off your list accordingly? Can same model brakes use either fluid...perhaps a seal compatibility issue? Of course the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid and opportunity for corrosion as with cars and motorcycles is a concern...bicycle hydro disk brakes tending to be more sealed and less permeable by environment.
Can you expand a bit why you are in favor of mineral oil for your bicycle disk hydro brakes?
Thanks
Your comments about organic versus semi-metallic disk pads is remindful of same discussion on performance car forums.
Can you talk a bit about your thinking relative to mineral versus DOT fluid..which brand brakes are off your list accordingly? Can same model brakes use either fluid...perhaps a seal compatibility issue? Of course the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid and opportunity for corrosion as with cars and motorcycles is a concern...bicycle hydro disk brakes tending to be more sealed and less permeable by environment.
Can you expand a bit why you are in favor of mineral oil for your bicycle disk hydro brakes?
Thanks
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The forecast means nothing. Pro teams aren't going to change what kind of brakes they choose based upon up threat of rain. What is notable is that the best riders in the US including TdF wackjob Phinney...they are all on caliper brakes when they can ride whatever bikes they want and the big bike mfr's are pushing disks. Pros still desire caliper brakes and aside from good reefer and thin air, there are more than a few hills in CO.
#245
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I don't like DOT purely based on the fact that it is pretty corrosive stuff. It can destroy paint or other finishes if you happen to spill and not do a good job cleaning up. With mineral oil you can get it all over place and not really hurt anything. Could probably use it in a pinch as after shave if needed.
For me I am a bit clumsy and really, really like not having to worry about spilling when using mineral oil.
The only companies I am aware of that use mineral oil are Magura and Shimano while I have used Hope, Formulas and Avids that required DOT. Going back a long time I remember certain brakes required DOT3 and some DOT4.
I could not even begin to make a performance based comparison of the two fluids however.
All of this said, if you get SRAM discs which require DOT fluid, odds are you won't need to bleed, maintain or deal with the DOT very often at all. Should be a minimal issue.
For me I am a bit clumsy and really, really like not having to worry about spilling when using mineral oil.
The only companies I am aware of that use mineral oil are Magura and Shimano while I have used Hope, Formulas and Avids that required DOT. Going back a long time I remember certain brakes required DOT3 and some DOT4.
I could not even begin to make a performance based comparison of the two fluids however.
All of this said, if you get SRAM discs which require DOT fluid, odds are you won't need to bleed, maintain or deal with the DOT very often at all. Should be a minimal issue.
Here is a good article that compares the merits of mineral oil versus DOT fluid:
DOT Brake Fluid vs. Mineral Oil - and the Winner is.. | Epic Bleed Solutions
I will dissent on your opinion which of course I respect and works for you. To me, Shimano's spec'ing 'their' mineral oil is simply based upon profit. They sell their pricey oil which is less refined than DOT fluid simply to make money for 'them'. Why not create a product that must be used as a companion to another product they sell? Mineral oil again in my opinion is inferior to DOT based brake fluid spec'ed in automobiles and motorcycles. This is based largely on boiling point and opportunity of cavitation which of course diminishes braking...a concern for example in the car and motorcycle industry when doing a lot of braking at the track or mountain passes....or a long descent on a bicycle on a hot day. Further, when water wicks in through microscopic voids in the sealing of braking systems, water is more homogeneous throughout the volume of DOT fluid versus separating out in mineral oil which further diminishes braking performance.
Last edited by Campag4life; 08-11-17 at 04:26 PM.
#246
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What type of brakes pro teams use means nothing?
The forecast means nothing. Pro teams aren't going to change what kind of brakes they choose based upon up threat of rain. What is notable is that the best riders in the US including TdF wackjob Phinney...they are all on caliper brakes when they can ride whatever bikes they want and the big bike mfr's are pushing disks. Pros still desire caliper brakes and aside from good reefer and thin air, there are more than a few hills in CO.
The forecast means nothing. Pro teams aren't going to change what kind of brakes they choose based upon up threat of rain. What is notable is that the best riders in the US including TdF wackjob Phinney...they are all on caliper brakes when they can ride whatever bikes they want and the big bike mfr's are pushing disks. Pros still desire caliper brakes and aside from good reefer and thin air, there are more than a few hills in CO.
I'm a bigger guy...currently over 250 lbs but back when I was in better shape still over 200 and I've never had an issue in any weather stopping my wheels from spinning with rim brakes. And what I mean by that is I've lost tire traction due to hard braking but never had an issue where my rim brakes wouldn't stop the rim from spinning (thus locking the tire). ALso I LOVE the modulation on my rim brakes.
It just feel like it's the MFGs pushing new technology so that they have something fresh to sell...much like electronic shifting felt to me 5-7 years ago.
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#247
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This isn't relevant to the thread, but neither is almost anything else in the last 10 pages.
Big one on the right is Jack Mountain, the highest peak in the Pasayten Wilderness. You can make out Baker, Crater, Snowfield, Colonial and Pyramid, it's the best seat in the house.
Now, between the conflagrations in BC and the nearby Diamond Creek fire, you can stand in the same spot and not see the peaks.
This is the end of the highest road in the state, at about 7,500 feet. The other end of the road is down at 2,200. It's not a long road. It's cool at the top, and heats up as you go down. It was 105 F earlier out there. So
Big one on the right is Jack Mountain, the highest peak in the Pasayten Wilderness. You can make out Baker, Crater, Snowfield, Colonial and Pyramid, it's the best seat in the house.
Now, between the conflagrations in BC and the nearby Diamond Creek fire, you can stand in the same spot and not see the peaks.
This is the end of the highest road in the state, at about 7,500 feet. The other end of the road is down at 2,200. It's not a long road. It's cool at the top, and heats up as you go down. It was 105 F earlier out there. So
#248
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This whole push is really interesting to me as it pertains to the higher end road bikes. Why are the manufacturers pushing this on us? I just bought my GF a Specialized Ruby Expert yesterday which has discs and through hubs which I've never used before (the hubs). There's no fast wheel change there as far as I can tell. And thus no way that EVER gets into racing. I get that it can be stiffer...but why is this all needed on road bikes?
I'm a bigger guy...currently over 250 lbs but back when I was in better shape still over 200 and I've never had an issue in any weather stopping my wheels from spinning with rim brakes. And what I mean by that is I've lost tire traction due to hard braking but never had an issue where my rim brakes wouldn't stop the rim from spinning (thus locking the tire). ALso I LOVE the modulation on my rim brakes.
It just feel like it's the MFGs pushing new technology so that they have something fresh to sell...much like electronic shifting felt to me 5-7 years ago.
I'm a bigger guy...currently over 250 lbs but back when I was in better shape still over 200 and I've never had an issue in any weather stopping my wheels from spinning with rim brakes. And what I mean by that is I've lost tire traction due to hard braking but never had an issue where my rim brakes wouldn't stop the rim from spinning (thus locking the tire). ALso I LOVE the modulation on my rim brakes.
It just feel like it's the MFGs pushing new technology so that they have something fresh to sell...much like electronic shifting felt to me 5-7 years ago.
So why not?
1. 1 lb or so of weight that a rider could allocate to something else to stay at the 15 lb UCI limit that applies even less to you and me.
2. Probably a 3 watt deficit at 30mph...which doesn't matter much to you or me but these guys can hold 30 mph in their own air.
3. Wheel changes. They are more fiddly for wheel replacement...pad alignment, being dislodged etc which is less critical to the average rider like you and me, but a big deal for pro's in a hurry.
So further why not?
Most agree that disks are easier to modulate, but most pros grew up riding caliper brakes and they work just fine or certainly good enough as they do for many of us. I didn't hear of any pro's crashing in the Tour of Colorado racing wheel to wheel due to inadequate braking in that monsoon they rode through yesterday which almost stopped the race.
Last edited by Campag4life; 08-11-17 at 04:26 PM.
#249
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Always the same arguments. Always the same flaws.
Disc wheels are fast to change. There are faster solutions than through axles. But fine if you don't want to ride on discs because the neutral service car won't have a wheel for you and you'll be stuck on one of those damned Mavic-branded yellow Canyons next time you have a flat on the tour, fine! Don't use discs.
Tom Boonen said disc brakes "work better, they're easier to control, they lock out less fast than normal brakes. Of course I can control normal brakes but with disc brakes you have so much more feeling. It's the biggest improvement I've seen in my career I don't know what all the hassle is about."
He knows more than you.
Rim brakes are great. I love SwissStop BXP pads and in dry conditions I trust them as much as discs, but hydraulic discs let me apply the same force more easily and also work just as well in the rain, so I like them too.
The problem is that there's no wrong answer here and confirmation bias tends to make people argue against the thing that they don't use or prefer.
Both choices are good. Both choices have downsides. I think we will see disc brakes become more prevalent because they do work better in a wider set of conditions, and the tiny amount of extra weight is inconsequential for most people, even most professionals.
And the latest crop of disc-equipped road bikes is sensational. Just like the latest crop of rim brake bikes is sensational.
What a fun time to enjoy the sport.
Disc wheels are fast to change. There are faster solutions than through axles. But fine if you don't want to ride on discs because the neutral service car won't have a wheel for you and you'll be stuck on one of those damned Mavic-branded yellow Canyons next time you have a flat on the tour, fine! Don't use discs.
Tom Boonen said disc brakes "work better, they're easier to control, they lock out less fast than normal brakes. Of course I can control normal brakes but with disc brakes you have so much more feeling. It's the biggest improvement I've seen in my career I don't know what all the hassle is about."
He knows more than you.
Rim brakes are great. I love SwissStop BXP pads and in dry conditions I trust them as much as discs, but hydraulic discs let me apply the same force more easily and also work just as well in the rain, so I like them too.
The problem is that there's no wrong answer here and confirmation bias tends to make people argue against the thing that they don't use or prefer.
Both choices are good. Both choices have downsides. I think we will see disc brakes become more prevalent because they do work better in a wider set of conditions, and the tiny amount of extra weight is inconsequential for most people, even most professionals.
And the latest crop of disc-equipped road bikes is sensational. Just like the latest crop of rim brake bikes is sensational.
What a fun time to enjoy the sport.
#250
Senior Member
" It's the biggest improvement I've seen in my career"
Not that I have a cycling career :-), but thats my feeling as well. I cant think of a single improvement, for the past decade or two, that rivals moving from rim to disc brakes. I wonder if the nay sayers have even ever tried road disc brakes?
Not that I have a cycling career :-), but thats my feeling as well. I cant think of a single improvement, for the past decade or two, that rivals moving from rim to disc brakes. I wonder if the nay sayers have even ever tried road disc brakes?