Ol Danl

If you're looking for cotters, someone on here usually suggests those from Bikesmith Designs. They do look like a good idea, but I've made do with cheaper ones. Is the BB a 26 tpi threaded shell -- should be 71mm wide if it is.

dddd

The brake pads would need to be lowered 4mm to use 700c rims, so you might be able to just eyeball it as it sits (oops, forgot that you took it apart, lol).
The stock crankset is good and the bb parts are good, hardened bits. Securing the cotters with alternating modest impact blows with nut tightening will get even the cheap replacement cotters bedded in solidly (vs. tightening, pressing or hammering alone). There is a point where the wrench just doesn't want to turn any more after the last impact to the head of the cotter, that is when the cotter is fully seated, not before.
The Simplex rear derailers are quick shifters, and a Deore would seem much less responsive to small lever movements. I found the original Simplex setup to be particularly snappy in the context of spirited riding, once I installed a Uniglide freewheel and modern 8s chain.
I changed as little as possible for my type of riding. A favorite saddle and alloy post, a wider 25.4mm bar plus an upgrade to 6 speeds (just added a ~2mm washer to the right end of the axle) and all was good. Mine is also a '73 with Capella lugs and 2/73 dated Phillips bb spindle.
Geometry of these bikes is 73st x 71ht, same as a Grand Sports, so this makes these bikes calm-riding off road, and with great stability on the road.
Mine was found with original tape which went onto the new bars after being soaked in hot suds to clean it and to relax the deformities from sitting for 45 years.

bwilli88 

Nope, photographic aberration due to short focal length and nearness to the subject.

rustystrings61 

The stock brakes should fit if you want to go 700C - if memory serves the Super Course TT was essentially the same bike in red with 700C tubulars.

Hoopdriver

Hi Lacro,

I have commuted daily for the last 6 years on my 72 Super Course and can attest to the nice ride. Mine has seen many mods and so other than frame, fork, and headset (dang 26 tpi) it has long departed from stock. Nevertheless, it's a keeper.

For Raleigh cotters, the best source that I have found is Mark Stonich at Bikesmith Design. His cotters are machined, not stamped like the cheap ones on eBay. A bit of filing and they fit great.

If you do decide to abandon your cottered cranks in favor of square taper aluminum, let me know. I have an itch to convert back to steel cranks.

Good luck.

Prowler 

Great bike and a great start to this point. I've recently finished restoration of a 1980 Supercourse12 and enjoyed the 25 mile test ride. Different geometry than your 73 but a very nice bike too. I'll also vote for the Suntour shifters and derailleurs. My SC has those (bar ends) and I have Suntour kit on 2 other bikes. I'm sold, fine machinery.

BTW, where in the pot hole ridden NE are you? Many of us around here. Could maybe help you or, at least, ride together. I'm a young sprig at 66.

lacro

Auburn NY

lacro

If brakes wouldn't fit, is there a drop bolt available for these center pulls?

lacro

If I use the Stronglite crank, is there an issue with chainwheel spacing if I use a Sedis narrow chain that I already have (new)? I guess I should give the Simplex RD a try before deciding whether I like it or not. I do have to figure out how to reassemble it correctly. I am not sure how the cage is locked in position on the body. I too have the original brownish bar tape, and never gave a thought to reuse it, but I guess it's worth a try to keep it original. I have some of the cheap cotters on order. If I try to use them, do I need to file the flat area longer so they go deeper like the better ones are done for Raleighs? I will get the better ones if I can't make the cheap ones work.
So a 6 sp freewheel will work with a 2mm spacer? That won't leave much axle left to fit the drop outs.

cycleheimer

I'd cast a vote for SunTour deraileurs to replace the Simplex ones. Very reliable. Raleigh used them around 1977. I am rebuilding my '79 English Dawes right now. It has it's original SunTour deraileurs, as does my '78 French Motobecane. I myself would keep the original center pull brakes, since the frame has a bridge for them. New pads, of couse. BTW, yard sale finds are sometimes the best finds!!!

Slightspeed

I used 1mm standard 1.37 id cassette spacer on the inside with my Campy hub to fit the 6 speed Megarange freewheel. I had to spread the drops just a little to fit. The spacer kept the VGT Luxe derailleur cage from ticking the spokes.

Brakes for my 700c conversion are a Weinmnann 750/999 on front, on a 27" fork. The rear is also a long reach, branded "Schwinn", but obviously Weinmann. You can get brand new Dia Compe long reach from several sources. Mine were $5 each, used. I also used modern longer Shimano pad holders with Kool Stop dual compound pads. (I just did a 50 mile mostly rainy ride on a modern bike with these pads, and they worked great)

lacro

Ok - for the sake of argument, I should calculate the required spokes for a 700c rim. So, 2 questions: Is there one particular 700c rim that works especially well with these vintage bikes, and what width should I use? My second question: Is there a particular easy to use spoke length calculator everyone uses?

Narhay

Some like the sun rims CR18 for wider tires. It is a heavier box style rim with eyelets and double walls.

I have used sun rims m13ii a few times. They are narrower but I like them as none of my tires are over 700x28.

Both come in polished and matte and look the vintage part.

Hoopdriver

I have used both of these rim models and can attest to their great quality for a bargain price. The m13s have a nice vintage look. Got to remove the stickers of course!

lacro

If I want larger tires such as 1-1/4 (32mm?) what width rim should I look for?
I found this rim, is it wide enough?:
Sun Alloy Rim, 700c, M13 II, Polished, 36 Hole,
Product Description:
Size 700x20/23
ISO 622
Wall DW/NMSW
Color Silver Pol
Drill 36PV
ERD 610,
Width 19.7
Profile 14.5

Update: I just checked the distance from the center of the axles in the frame dropouts to the center of the brake pads at their lowest point.
I get 300mm at the rear brake, and 310mm at the front. If the above 700c rims radius is 311mm, and the rims profile is 14.5mm. The center of the side of the rim is around 304mm If my calculations are correct, it looks like the rear might work, but probably not the front?

dddd

Remove a front pad's nut and washer, then position the pad to meet your 27" rim. Apply the brake and hold it.

Now, eyeball the gap below the pad holder stud in the slot. A 4mm bolt should fit in the space below the stud to confirm that a 700c rim will work out.

I wouldn't buy skinny rims for a Super Course. 16mm or more (inside) rim width is better on all bikes, and especially these bikes imo. Rims with a 13mm inside width were designed with 20mm width tires in mind (or to achieve lowest weight for marketing purposes) but did persist in the market for many more years while 23mm was the most popular tire width.

lacro

I am trying to use the DT 14 ga. SS spokes I have on hand without needing to buy new spokes. After doing multiple spoke calculations, I came to these choices:

1) rebuild the original 27" Weinmann 27 X 1-1/4 rims that don't have rim hooks, 3 cross spoke pattern, and use 1-1/8" or 1- 1/4 Panaracer Paselas at lower pressure. This option keeps original brakes.

2) buy Sun CR18 700c rims and build, but using a 4 cross pattern, and use 28 or 32 Paselas (at higher pressure). With this option, I will need at least a new front brake replacement, nut offers a lot of tire options.

3) build with 27" Sun CR18 rims, 4X spoke pattern, and again use the 27" Paselas. This option keeps original brakes.

With the spokes on hand, I can probably do any one of the above choices. Your thoughts/suggestions appreciated...

agmetal

Why higher pressure on the 700C rims?

lacro

Well... I guess I thought "I heard" the no hook rims will require lower pressure (60-70 PSI), and the hooked rims can take higher pressure (90 PSI, same tire?) Am I wrong in my thinking?

Salamandrine 

IMHO, if using straight gauge spokes and 36H hubs, 4X is my preference. That view may be a little archaic...

I think you should use the modern hook bead rims. It's really shooting yourself in the foot to go with an archaic straightwall clincher rim. You wouldn't be able to use all the cool new modern clinchers. There's a reason everyone used to ride sew ups.

AFA 700 vs 27, I could go either way. You sure you really need to swap brakes to run 700? The pads only need to come down 4 mm.

jj1091

I'd vote for #1 option. I have a set of Weinmann straight-wall rims on my PX-10 with 27 x 1-1/8 Paselas, inflated to 90psi, and never had any problems. I can't imagine needing any higher pressure in them, so I don't see any benefit to swapping out rims in order to have higher PSI. Just for a good check, though, mount the tires on the existing rims, if you haven't already de-laced them. If they're a bit tight going on, the better for less worrying about blowoff.

I'm all for the simpler solution, use what you already have on-hand.

agmetal

I mostly agree with this. Higher pressure isn't always beneficial in the real world, anyway.

jj1091

Yes, especially when the OP stated that he's 72. I'm 63, and not real fond of hard tires these days. I mostly bike on a paved MUP, and there's some washboard sections that nearly shake my teeth out. I'm thinking about switching back to 1-1/4" instead of the 1-1/8's for more cushion.

desconhecido 

First, the diameter of the rim is 622 mm to the bead seat, not the greatest diameter. So, the center of the side of the rim is probably about 5mm more in radius -- say 316 mm. You can see this with your 27" rims, too. The BSD is 630 mm but if you measure the greatest diameter it will probably be 645-650 or so (wag).

Second, most (but not all) pictures of Raleigh Super Course bikes seem to show shorter reach brakes on the front than the rear. That's what I've seen in person, too: 610 on the front and 750 on the rear. I would expect that a 610 in the front would handle 700c rim just fine and a 750 in the rear would be just about at its limit. You can cheat a bit by expanding the slot with a file.

I think the suggestion to put the brakes on and the 27" rims on and see if you still have 4mm of adjustment in the brakes is a very good suggestion. That will tell you for sure.

If you do find a 610 too short in the front, a 750 can be substituted and they are pretty easy to find and cheap. I believe that every Raleigh Grand Prix was 610/750 and that was the most popular boom bike that's ever been a boom bike. If you can use a Raleigh branded 750 (probaly diacompe) I can mail you one.

Of course, you have the bike, you have the fork, you have the brakes, and you have the measuring tape so if you carefully measure, you get what you get and that's it.

lacro

I have previously checked whether the Weinmann 610/750 brakes would reach, and it appears they wouldn't make it. There is not 4mm left in the slots. Milling the slot a little longer might work. In some previous post in the thread, some say it works without issue, and others say it didn't??

I do like the idea of using new box style rims that are probably stronger with better braking, and will be more forgiving of my wheel building skills. I haven't built wheels in 30 years! Also, one original rim had a radial flat spot in it that I may have removed, but I am not sure. One concern I have is building new wheels with a 4X pattern. It seems I read somewhere that is not a good idea with large flange hubs??

However, knowing that there has been success using the Paselas at 90 psi on the Weinmann 27" straight rims does open up that option as well. That would save me $, and time. Decisions, decisions.....