Back pedaling - chain comes moves to smaller sprocket
08-13-20, 07:10 PM
#26
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,844
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 929 Times
in
614 Posts
Exactly! My fear that the chain rings did get moved to the right for some reason. A mistake I presume. That's the only explanation I have for why the chain is more crossed than it was before I had the work done.
I can back pedal on my three other bikes when on the two big rings. That's enough of an indicator to me that I need to go back to the bike shop and have them fix this issue. One would think that I would be able to use all the gearing on my most expensive bike.
Thanks all for your input!
I can back pedal on my three other bikes when on the two big rings. That's enough of an indicator to me that I need to go back to the bike shop and have them fix this issue. One would think that I would be able to use all the gearing on my most expensive bike.
Thanks all for your input!
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
08-13-20, 10:11 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,809
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 2,168 Times
in
1,324 Posts
I was changing a tire today and since I don’t recall back pedaling before, I decided to try the big-big on the work stand. Chainring 34t and cog 40t. It is only an 8 speed so I probably pick a mm or so less in cross chaining, but it worked. Nice and smooth.
Never thought about it before and probably never try it riding, but no issues.
John
Never thought about it before and probably never try it riding, but no issues.
John
08-15-20, 02:19 PM
#28
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ok - thanks to all that help with my issues regarding back pedaling and the chain coming off. I found to solution which work for MY issue.
First - this bike has 2 x 10 gearing. I think I purchased it in 2012 or so when I was racing. I've stuck with it even if 1x are the newest thing. Why? I don't want to spend the money to upgrade. It's a awesome 20 lb S-Works cross country carbon bike with Sram XX components and some upgrades. I keep it nice, ride it hard, and have fun with it.
Please don't take offence with my disagreement to your comments. Hang tight - fix to my problem later. A common thread to most comments... 'Don't cross chain.' 'Concentrate on shifting so you don't have to cross chain.'
1) The bike worked perfectly cross chaining before I took it to the shop to fix. So I know something was wrong with the bike, not my technique for that I was riding big-2-big.
2) My other cross country 2 x 10 bike, my road bike, and my girlfriends 2 x 10 all pedal backwards when cross chaining. I knew something was wrong.
3) I couldn't accept that mountain bikes shouldn't be able to pedal backwards when cross chained. Think of this scenario... You stop on a hill for whatever reason. Your pedal is out of sync with the desirable starting position. What do you do? Pedal backward a half of rotation to bring the pedal to the starting position. Bam! Chain falls to a smaller cog making it even harder to get started. Completely unacceptable!! Don't settle for less than 100% operation for all gears (2 x 10). Can't speak for the 1 x 12's but I would think that quality bikes and the engineers that design them could make that work! Very sucky if they don't.
I was determined to get this bike back working like it did before I took it in. I took it back to the shop and they told me the same comments I heard from you all (don't cross chain). I persisted. After a while, we tried putting my old chain back on and it work, just like old times. The problem was the old chain was stretch and blown. My new front rings and rear cassette would be prematurely wear out. Not a good long term fix! I asked them to put a new chain on. Recall, I originally gave the shop a slightly used but still good chain to keep costs down. The brand new chain worked too. Perfect - I was happy and feeling better about the $400 I spent "fixing" it. Yep! $400 (most cost was in the cassette).
Why did the new chain work? Ready.... The chain the shop used I brought from home. It was two links too short and the shop didn't catch it. So, it was the excess tension in the chain, cause from being 2 links short, that caused the issue. Yay! Problem solved and now very happy.
If you have is problem, it could be due to chain tension. Thanks all.
Happy riding!
Ian
First - this bike has 2 x 10 gearing. I think I purchased it in 2012 or so when I was racing. I've stuck with it even if 1x are the newest thing. Why? I don't want to spend the money to upgrade. It's a awesome 20 lb S-Works cross country carbon bike with Sram XX components and some upgrades. I keep it nice, ride it hard, and have fun with it.
Please don't take offence with my disagreement to your comments. Hang tight - fix to my problem later. A common thread to most comments... 'Don't cross chain.' 'Concentrate on shifting so you don't have to cross chain.'
1) The bike worked perfectly cross chaining before I took it to the shop to fix. So I know something was wrong with the bike, not my technique for that I was riding big-2-big.
2) My other cross country 2 x 10 bike, my road bike, and my girlfriends 2 x 10 all pedal backwards when cross chaining. I knew something was wrong.
3) I couldn't accept that mountain bikes shouldn't be able to pedal backwards when cross chained. Think of this scenario... You stop on a hill for whatever reason. Your pedal is out of sync with the desirable starting position. What do you do? Pedal backward a half of rotation to bring the pedal to the starting position. Bam! Chain falls to a smaller cog making it even harder to get started. Completely unacceptable!! Don't settle for less than 100% operation for all gears (2 x 10). Can't speak for the 1 x 12's but I would think that quality bikes and the engineers that design them could make that work! Very sucky if they don't.
I was determined to get this bike back working like it did before I took it in. I took it back to the shop and they told me the same comments I heard from you all (don't cross chain). I persisted. After a while, we tried putting my old chain back on and it work, just like old times. The problem was the old chain was stretch and blown. My new front rings and rear cassette would be prematurely wear out. Not a good long term fix! I asked them to put a new chain on. Recall, I originally gave the shop a slightly used but still good chain to keep costs down. The brand new chain worked too. Perfect - I was happy and feeling better about the $400 I spent "fixing" it. Yep! $400 (most cost was in the cassette).
Why did the new chain work? Ready.... The chain the shop used I brought from home. It was two links too short and the shop didn't catch it. So, it was the excess tension in the chain, cause from being 2 links short, that caused the issue. Yay! Problem solved and now very happy.
If you have is problem, it could be due to chain tension. Thanks all.
Happy riding!
Ian
08-15-20, 07:12 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,809
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 2,168 Times
in
1,324 Posts
I’m glad you stuck with it and got it to work. I do understand when something works and then doesn’t any explanation is not good enough.
Since this thread, I have tried a bike or two when I have on the stand. My 2x8 mtb had no issues. My 3x7 road bike wouldn’t back pedal on big-big. But with a triple and short stays that is not surprising.
Ironically I do back pedal my road bike, not in big-big, but when starting out with toe clips, I back pedal so I don’t scuff the tie clip on the pavement. A pet peeve of mine are scuffed up toe clips.
John
Since this thread, I have tried a bike or two when I have on the stand. My 2x8 mtb had no issues. My 3x7 road bike wouldn’t back pedal on big-big. But with a triple and short stays that is not surprising.
Ironically I do back pedal my road bike, not in big-big, but when starting out with toe clips, I back pedal so I don’t scuff the tie clip on the pavement. A pet peeve of mine are scuffed up toe clips.
John
