CB HI

That is a great road bike for a beginner. Far more stable and less twitchy than almost any new road bike.

PS - if it is a size 58-60 cm, how much do you want for it? The guys in the vintage forum are crying right now at a newbie riding a vintage 76 Fuji.

sggoodri

Don't forget front and rear lights plus a rear reflector as a backup for the rear light. No matter how safe a cyclist you are, these are essential for safety - and compliance with law - if you ride in darkness.

gcottay

Exactly.

layedback1

When it comes to safety and tires, wider is definately better. Narrow tires can fall into cracks in the pavement, and are prone to snake bite flats. The 100 psi tires on my bent are 1.5 inches wide, and seem to roll on forever.

Standalone 

Get that bike to a bike shop and have the cables and chain replaced, new brake pads and other normally replaced items replaced.

The bike should be plenty safe. Take your time getting to know it and you'll be fine.

I find that my vintage japanese bike is light and quick, so I can accelerate from stops and lights and get out of any tight spots.

I find that my larger slower bikes make me want to slow less at stop signs and lights and obstacles, whereas my road bike is easy to get going again-- so I don't mind hitting the brakes as much.

AndrewP

You need to watch out more for potholes and cracks in the pavement with thin tires, but this is a question of comfort rather than safety. If you have 23 mm wide tires, you could try switching to 25 or even 28 (if there is space under the brakes). If you dont feel too stretched out with your hands on the brake hoods, your road bike should be fine to learn on. If you feel uncomfortable you could have the stem changed to raise the bars a bit and bring them closer while your body adjusts. What make and model bike do you have?

kludgefudge

I'm on board with the idea that as long as the 76 fuji is in decent mechanical condition with good brakes etc., and some blinky lights for night riding, it is just about as "safe" as most other bikes, even for a beginner, PROVIDED THEY ARE COMFORTABLE IN ITS OPERATION.

In my experience getting people on bikes though, most beginners do not like road bikes right off. They don't like the hunched over position. they brake lever position makes them nervous, and most have to be explicitly shown the "hands over hoods to brake" method. And on top of that they have to take their hands off the bars to shift, and whats this? FRICTION shifting? yeah have fun explaining how you pull back the right lever to make it easier to pedal and push forward the left one. Not to mention the complexities of "trimming" and when it is necessary. And even if they do understand, don't expect them to manage to get it into low gear before a steep hill. not that there really is a gear low enough for most unfit beginners on your average vintage road bike. and the saddles too low for efficient pedaling anyway because they don't feel comfortable unless they can touch the ground with their feet while sitting in it.

When I am lending a bike or suggesting a bike to someone who doesn't ride regularly, I think an upright bike with a somewhat comfy saddle, 2 hand brakes and an 18-21 speed indexed drive train is the "safest" way to go. it lets them focus more on just riding rather than getting distracted by their sore neck, getting their hand to the brake lever in time or what that grinding noise coming from the back of the bike is.

randya

+1

lllz

fuji sports 10, 1976

lllz

so should i get a cruiser also in addition to mine for the beginning?
though i didn't have a choice to learn on what and i had only one fall this saturday just because those who were teaching me forgot to tell me how to break

lllz

The bike itself is actually is in a great shape, the brakes and chains.. rides very smooth

mikeybikes

The safest bike is one with two wheels and brakes.

Tsuru

yep.

CB HI

Skip the cruiser. Just practice by riding in a low (easy) gear, breaking first using the rear brake only (in both the drop bar position and with your hands on the hoods) from higher and higher speeds until you feel confident. Then practice braking using both brakes evenly. Finally, practice emergency stops by shifting your weight back off the saddle and using as much of both brakes as possible without skidding.

Once you have that down, you can start practicing gear shifts.

I noticed that you did not tell me what size and how much, so I guess I am out of luck as far as owining a 1976 Fuji Sports 10.

A couple of threads of interest:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/140580-fuji-sport-10-age-tubes.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/441366-my-1976-fuji-sports-10-fg-build.html
https://oldtenspeedgallery.com/owner-...uji-sports-10/

randya

doesn't anyone know how to spell 'brake' correctly?

lllz

thanx for the links and advices.
the bike is small, it's 48. i got it for $135 from craigslist (was a pretty good deal considering that nothing needs to be updated)
but i'll probably stick with it for some time

gcottay

This might be what's required.

CB HI

Good find and price for a lugged frame bike.

Giffen

Dutch Bike. No real discussion here.

1. Step through frame is less likely to pull you to the grown in a fall.
2. Covered chain prevents ruined clothes and injuries from limbs hitting the chain or cogs.
3. Skirt guard prevents things from getting stuck in wheel.
4. High handlebars mitigate knee/grip conflict in sharp turns.
5. Heavy steel frame will basically never fail.
6. Fenders will reduce incentives for avoiding small puddles.
7. Wider tires make the bike less susceptible to wheel diversions.
8. Built in lighting will keep you from riding without it.
9. Drum brakes work reliably in all weather.
10. With an internal gear hub, you can quickly downshift in traffic without having to pedal through a dangerously high gear.
11. The larger wheels are more likely to go over obstacles.
12. The rearward weight bias makes braking safer and makes you less likely to endo.
13. Upright position allows you to shoulder check more often without excreting yourself.
14. The fact that you can hold the handlebars without leaning forward means that it's easier to steer with only one hand and you will be less tempted to ride hands free.
15. The increased front rake eliminates toe/wheel overlap in sharp turns.

Have I missed anything?

Giffen

Almost forgot:

16. The heavy frame and relaxed position will make you ride at a more natural pace, which by itself will bring a much greater improvement in safety than a helmet ever can.

Leebo

Safest bike? +1 to good working order and good brakes. Put on new brake pads, it will only cost you $20.00 or so. I disagree with the recumbent idea. How do you see over cars/ be seen by cars. How do you bunny hop/ avoid potholes or sticks on a recumbent? What do you do for a rapid dismount on a recumbent?

Standalone 

Sorry a/b the C&V post but...

seems steep to me...

Metzinger

Agreed.

PaulH

17. The relaxed geometry is good for riding in high winds.
18. The rearward weight bias is also good for ice and snow, particularly with studded snow tires.

The Danes and Germans make bikes similar to the Dutch ones, but better for hilly areas

Paul

Artkansas 

The safest bike is one that has been parked in the garage so long that it's dusty, the tires are flat and on top are piled a lawn chair and a box with parts for a project that you intended to finish in 1987.