Sekine world's finest bicycle?
#551
Newbie
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Thunder Bay
Posts: 16
Bikes: CCM, Kona, Rocky Mountain, Trek, Limongi, Solorock, GT
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sizing for 1975-76 bikes
Hello fellow Sekine bike enthusiasts!
Looking at some local Sekine bikes on kijiji in Thunder Bay (can't post links because I am still a newb)
Anyone have any advice on how to tell a chromoly version from "just" a hi-ten version? Besides just holding weighing them side-by-side...
Appropriate frame sizing for someone 5'11'ish?
Cheers!
Looking at some local Sekine bikes on kijiji in Thunder Bay (can't post links because I am still a newb)
Anyone have any advice on how to tell a chromoly version from "just" a hi-ten version? Besides just holding weighing them side-by-side...
Appropriate frame sizing for someone 5'11'ish?
Cheers!
#552
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 656 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,044 Times
in
1,880 Posts
Hello fellow Sekine bike enthusiasts!
Looking at some local Sekine bikes on kijiji in Thunder Bay (can't post links because I am still a newb)
Anyone have any advice on how to tell a chromoly version from "just" a hi-ten version? Besides just holding weighing them side-by-side...
Appropriate frame sizing for someone 5'11'ish?
Cheers!
Looking at some local Sekine bikes on kijiji in Thunder Bay (can't post links because I am still a newb)
Anyone have any advice on how to tell a chromoly version from "just" a hi-ten version? Besides just holding weighing them side-by-side...
Appropriate frame sizing for someone 5'11'ish?
Cheers!
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/th...ike/1566400171
Unfortunately, it is only the 21" frame size. Assuming you are of average proportions, I'd be looking for one with a 23" frame.
As the models varied a bit over the year, the only definitive rule for determining whether it is a hi-tensile or CrMo frame, is via the seat post diameter. The Sekine CrMo frames used 26.6mmt posts. Hi-tensile frames used smaller diameter seat posts. However, this doesn't mean much if you don't own precision measuring calipers
As a general rule of thumb, any Sekine model whereby the rear derailleur attaches to the frame via a claw shaped adapter that sandwiches between the axle nuts and frame dropout, is a hi-tensile frame.
#553
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Hello fellow Sekine bike enthusiasts!
Looking at some local Sekine bikes on kijiji in Thunder Bay (can't post links because I am still a newb)
Anyone have any advice on how to tell a chromoly version from "just" a hi-ten version? Besides just holding weighing them side-by-side...
Appropriate frame sizing for someone 5'11'ish?
Cheers!
Looking at some local Sekine bikes on kijiji in Thunder Bay (can't post links because I am still a newb)
Anyone have any advice on how to tell a chromoly version from "just" a hi-ten version? Besides just holding weighing them side-by-side...
Appropriate frame sizing for someone 5'11'ish?
Cheers!
Likes For Sekine1974:
#554
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Greetings Sekine1974,
The only pictures I have of my chrome Sekine are the one I posted about 7 years ago. They are pretty bad pictures because chrome doesn't photograph indoor very well and it was -40 at the time, so wasn't going outside. Like yours, mine has the decals on it and the chrome and decals have aging. I've also had it for at least 20 years, so I really doubt it is a re-chrome or re-decal. Unfortunately, due to health order restrictions in my area, I can't currently visit it to take pictures.
If you find any more info than I did, let me know. I spent about 200 hours trying to find out something about them and was not successful. The plant in Canada has been closed for almost 40 years now and these chrome bikes are 40 plus years old. Probably have to contact someone in Asia to find out info about them now.
The only pictures I have of my chrome Sekine are the one I posted about 7 years ago. They are pretty bad pictures because chrome doesn't photograph indoor very well and it was -40 at the time, so wasn't going outside. Like yours, mine has the decals on it and the chrome and decals have aging. I've also had it for at least 20 years, so I really doubt it is a re-chrome or re-decal. Unfortunately, due to health order restrictions in my area, I can't currently visit it to take pictures.
If you find any more info than I did, let me know. I spent about 200 hours trying to find out something about them and was not successful. The plant in Canada has been closed for almost 40 years now and these chrome bikes are 40 plus years old. Probably have to contact someone in Asia to find out info about them now.
#555
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Sekine1974
If you want to find out more about what I learned about these chrome frame bikes and look at some of the places I looked at, I suggest searching this forum with my user ID. That seems to be the best way to find out what I uncovered. There are links to other sites that may have been updated since I looked 7 years ago. Yes, it does seem like a rabbit hole when it comes to these bikes. That was my experience as well.
If you want to find out more about what I learned about these chrome frame bikes and look at some of the places I looked at, I suggest searching this forum with my user ID. That seems to be the best way to find out what I uncovered. There are links to other sites that may have been updated since I looked 7 years ago. Yes, it does seem like a rabbit hole when it comes to these bikes. That was my experience as well.
Last edited by BikeCrazy24; 05-17-21 at 02:33 PM.
#556
Newbie
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Thunder Bay
Posts: 16
Bikes: CCM, Kona, Rocky Mountain, Trek, Limongi, Solorock, GT
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks all!
Going to pepper a few more questions here:
1) how can you tell the frame is a 21" vs. a 23' from photos?
2) Pretty happy to use 27 1/8 if I can find a bike with a good set of rims, but any luck moving to 700c (maybe with 35-38c?) wheels in these if not? Fork and rear look reasonably spacious.
Cheers!
Going to pepper a few more questions here:
1) how can you tell the frame is a 21" vs. a 23' from photos?
2) Pretty happy to use 27 1/8 if I can find a bike with a good set of rims, but any luck moving to 700c (maybe with 35-38c?) wheels in these if not? Fork and rear look reasonably spacious.
Cheers!
#557
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 656 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,044 Times
in
1,880 Posts
Thanks all!
Going to pepper a few more questions here:
1) how can you tell the frame is a 21" vs. a 23' from photos?
2) Pretty happy to use 27 1/8 if I can find a bike with a good set of rims, but any luck moving to 700c (maybe with 35-38c?) wheels in these if not? Fork and rear look reasonably spacious.
Cheers!
Going to pepper a few more questions here:
1) how can you tell the frame is a 21" vs. a 23' from photos?
2) Pretty happy to use 27 1/8 if I can find a bike with a good set of rims, but any luck moving to 700c (maybe with 35-38c?) wheels in these if not? Fork and rear look reasonably spacious.
Cheers!
2. 700c rims have an 8mm smaller bead seat diameter that requires the brakes pads to be lowered by 4mm.That doesn't sound like much but I've seen cases where the OEM brakes have had insufficient adjustment range and the longer reach brakes were required. I haven't tried it but I think 35-38mm tyres would be really pushing things, if it works at all. For both tyre diameter and width, you have to look at each case separately, as there a lot of variables that come into play and you can find cases of two bicycles of the same year and model where one works and the other doesn't.
#558
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,438
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5891 Post(s)
Liked 3,475 Times
in
2,080 Posts
Thanks all!
Going to pepper a few more questions here:
1) how can you tell the frame is a 21" vs. a 23' from photos?
2) Pretty happy to use 27 1/8 if I can find a bike with a good set of rims, but any luck moving to 700c (maybe with 35-38c?) wheels in these if not? Fork and rear look reasonably spacious.
Cheers!
Going to pepper a few more questions here:
1) how can you tell the frame is a 21" vs. a 23' from photos?
2) Pretty happy to use 27 1/8 if I can find a bike with a good set of rims, but any luck moving to 700c (maybe with 35-38c?) wheels in these if not? Fork and rear look reasonably spacious.
Cheers!
#560
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Greetings Skikick,
The other issues with going to 700 wheels is frame spacing and component incompatibility. The 700 rear wheels typically have more speeds (more gears) and then one will need to pretty much upgrade all the other components to get it to all work properly. I've seen people basically replace the whole bike and spread the rear section of the frame taking that approach. The other option is to find a rear 700 freewheel wheel that is as close as you can find to what was on the 27" wheel bike in terms of speeds, use the original freewheel from the 27" wheel, re-space the 700 wheel hub, and then re-dish the 700 wheel. I've helped people go in both directions, so it is possible, but like many things, it is not as easy as one may think.
The other issues with going to 700 wheels is frame spacing and component incompatibility. The 700 rear wheels typically have more speeds (more gears) and then one will need to pretty much upgrade all the other components to get it to all work properly. I've seen people basically replace the whole bike and spread the rear section of the frame taking that approach. The other option is to find a rear 700 freewheel wheel that is as close as you can find to what was on the 27" wheel bike in terms of speeds, use the original freewheel from the 27" wheel, re-space the 700 wheel hub, and then re-dish the 700 wheel. I've helped people go in both directions, so it is possible, but like many things, it is not as easy as one may think.
Likes For BikeCrazy24:
#563
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
And now there are three!!! They are just popping up everywhere this year.
Any documentation regarding the history of the bike Hummer? We are all stuck on exactly why these bikes exist. Lots of speculation but no hard documentation like build sheets or at least accounts from people that worked at the factory or people that worked at or owned bike shops back in the day when they were built in the 70s.
Any documentation regarding the history of the bike Hummer? We are all stuck on exactly why these bikes exist. Lots of speculation but no hard documentation like build sheets or at least accounts from people that worked at the factory or people that worked at or owned bike shops back in the day when they were built in the 70s.
#564
Full Member
Any idea what is year of this bike, is it Japan or Canada made?
I know it's saying Canada but maybe it's still Japan made initially
I know it's saying Canada but maybe it's still Japan made initially
Last edited by Spellscape; 05-28-21 at 09:39 AM.
#565
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 656 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,044 Times
in
1,880 Posts
Assuming the Shimano Altus ST derailleurs are OEM, it's no earlier than 1979 and it would be a Sekine RM-30 model. It could extend into the early 1980s. We should be able to narrow that down, based on the serial number and/or derailleur date codes.
#567
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 656 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,044 Times
in
1,880 Posts
#569
Newbie
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Thunder Bay
Posts: 16
Bikes: CCM, Kona, Rocky Mountain, Trek, Limongi, Solorock, GT
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Throwing another one in the mix here: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1569187433
Do I see a chromo sticker there? Is this somone's conversion to flat bar and shifters? Year/model?
Interested in this bike as I would probably make similar conversions for commuting (flat bar and pannier rack).
Do I see a chromo sticker there? Is this somone's conversion to flat bar and shifters? Year/model?
Interested in this bike as I would probably make similar conversions for commuting (flat bar and pannier rack).
#570
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 656 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,044 Times
in
1,880 Posts
Throwing another one in the mix here: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1569187433
Do I see a chromo sticker there? Is this somone's conversion to flat bar and shifters? Year/model?
Interested in this bike as I would probably make similar conversions for commuting (flat bar and pannier rack).
Do I see a chromo sticker there? Is this somone's conversion to flat bar and shifters? Year/model?
Interested in this bike as I would probably make similar conversions for commuting (flat bar and pannier rack).
Likes For T-Mar:
#571
Newbie
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Thunder Bay
Posts: 16
Bikes: CCM, Kona, Rocky Mountain, Trek, Limongi, Solorock, GT
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks T-Mar. Appreciate it! Browsing through here - seems you have a quite a lots of answers I have about these old bikes.
One more for now: assuming these are freewheel hubs and not cassette hubs?
If so, could I move to a 7-speed 34t freewheel and use drop bar shifters? If that's where I wanted to go - would I start getting to the world of spreading the rear chainstays for a newer wheel setup to accommodate that - or would it be a straight swap and just a matter of indexing with a hypotethetical new 7-speed shifter?
Love these frames and the story... but maybe need to realize what I am potentially getting into in terms of tinkering, swapping, adapting. I like fooling around with this type of thing but have only done it with 00's and newer machines. New territory.
One more for now: assuming these are freewheel hubs and not cassette hubs?
If so, could I move to a 7-speed 34t freewheel and use drop bar shifters? If that's where I wanted to go - would I start getting to the world of spreading the rear chainstays for a newer wheel setup to accommodate that - or would it be a straight swap and just a matter of indexing with a hypotethetical new 7-speed shifter?
Love these frames and the story... but maybe need to realize what I am potentially getting into in terms of tinkering, swapping, adapting. I like fooling around with this type of thing but have only done it with 00's and newer machines. New territory.
#572
Newbie
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Thunder Bay
Posts: 16
Bikes: CCM, Kona, Rocky Mountain, Trek, Limongi, Solorock, GT
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Answered my own question: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html
#573
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Greetings Skikick,
I took a look at what Sheldon said. Yes I have done that. To avoid re-dishing the rim, I added washers and both sides of the hub or if you have access to hub locking nuts, I often just use wider locking nuts on both sides of the hub. This also basically makes the whole assembly wider, so what people often do is just jam the wheel in the frame. This adds extra stress on the frame when riding, which could cause frame failure. So it is recommended that you spread the frame so the wheel fits properly. This can be difficult to do properly.
The other option is to re-space the hub and re-dish the wheel to work with 7 speed free wheels or cassettes and fit the wheel in the frame as it is. I have done this as well.
I took a look at what Sheldon said. Yes I have done that. To avoid re-dishing the rim, I added washers and both sides of the hub or if you have access to hub locking nuts, I often just use wider locking nuts on both sides of the hub. This also basically makes the whole assembly wider, so what people often do is just jam the wheel in the frame. This adds extra stress on the frame when riding, which could cause frame failure. So it is recommended that you spread the frame so the wheel fits properly. This can be difficult to do properly.
The other option is to re-space the hub and re-dish the wheel to work with 7 speed free wheels or cassettes and fit the wheel in the frame as it is. I have done this as well.
#574
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Rupert's Land
Posts: 1,247
Bikes: 1981 Raleigh GP, 1985 Norco Bush Pilot, . . .
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 242 Post(s)
Liked 188 Times
in
137 Posts
And now there are three!!! They are just popping up everywhere this year.
Any documentation regarding the history of the bike Hummer? We are all stuck on exactly why these bikes exist. Lots of speculation but no hard documentation like build sheets or at least accounts from people that worked at the factory or people that worked at or owned bike shops back in the day when they were built in the 70s.
Any documentation regarding the history of the bike Hummer? We are all stuck on exactly why these bikes exist. Lots of speculation but no hard documentation like build sheets or at least accounts from people that worked at the factory or people that worked at or owned bike shops back in the day when they were built in the 70s.
sorry I missed these posts. I am only on bikeforums.net periodically so I do not see everything when it is first posted.
I cannot tell you anything more about that chromed Sekine. The pictures were taken several years ago and I think the bicycle has changed ownership.
I have seen this model and year of Sekine in blue and red, both with half chromed stays and fork. The paint was coming off the stays and fork and it looks like chrome underneath the paint. I could not tell if the main tubes and lugs were also chrome underneath the paint.
#575
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Rupert's Land
Posts: 1,247
Bikes: 1981 Raleigh GP, 1985 Norco Bush Pilot, . . .
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 242 Post(s)
Liked 188 Times
in
137 Posts
Sekine Canada timeline and frame serial numbers
Some people have questions about what years are represented by the letters in Sekine Canada serial numbers.
Here is a brief timeline of Sekine Canada. This timeline is based on contemporaneous newspaper articles from the Winnipeg Free Press.
See this excellent website for details: Rivers & Area Heritage
1972 Bicycles from Sekine Industries of Japan are imported into Canada by H.C. Paul Company.
1973 April. Joint venture Sekine Canada Ltd. is formed by three partner companies:
Sekine Industries, Nagase and Co. (and import-export company), and H.C. Paul Co.
Sekine Canada operates along side the Oo-Za-We-Kwun Centre at the former Canadian Forces Base Rivers.
1976 June. The frame manufacturing facility is added to the Sekine Canada operation.
1979 Sekine Industries withdraws its personnel from Sekine Canada. Many return to Japan.
1980 February. Sekine Canada financial restructuring. Sekine Industries reduced to 25% ownership.
1980 June 30. Oo-Za-We-Kwun Training Centre closes.
1981 August 31. Sekine Canada goes into recievership. The factory does not open the next day.
1982 January. Receivership auction of Sekine Canada assets.
The serial number of Sekinie Canada. The letter F is the last letter used for the year. 1981 was the last year of production.
One can deduce that F = 1981. Counting backwards, A=1976.
The first year of Sekine Canada production was 1973, X=1973.
There is a big change in the format of the serial numbers after the 1980 financial restructuring.
There was also a change in the Sekine Canada model line after the restructuring.
Here is a brief timeline of Sekine Canada. This timeline is based on contemporaneous newspaper articles from the Winnipeg Free Press.
See this excellent website for details: Rivers & Area Heritage
1972 Bicycles from Sekine Industries of Japan are imported into Canada by H.C. Paul Company.
1973 April. Joint venture Sekine Canada Ltd. is formed by three partner companies:
Sekine Industries, Nagase and Co. (and import-export company), and H.C. Paul Co.
Sekine Canada operates along side the Oo-Za-We-Kwun Centre at the former Canadian Forces Base Rivers.
1976 June. The frame manufacturing facility is added to the Sekine Canada operation.
1979 Sekine Industries withdraws its personnel from Sekine Canada. Many return to Japan.
1980 February. Sekine Canada financial restructuring. Sekine Industries reduced to 25% ownership.
1980 June 30. Oo-Za-We-Kwun Training Centre closes.
1981 August 31. Sekine Canada goes into recievership. The factory does not open the next day.
1982 January. Receivership auction of Sekine Canada assets.
The serial number of Sekinie Canada. The letter F is the last letter used for the year. 1981 was the last year of production.
One can deduce that F = 1981. Counting backwards, A=1976.
The first year of Sekine Canada production was 1973, X=1973.
There is a big change in the format of the serial numbers after the 1980 financial restructuring.
There was also a change in the Sekine Canada model line after the restructuring.
Last edited by Hummer; 06-15-21 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Correction