Co-op dilemma - another rusty "classic"
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Seat tube will reveal a lot. Run your finger inside and check for a vertical seam, then try inserting a 26.4mm seat post
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Nippon produced Raleigh cycles did not receive Vagner DP+ fork crowns, BOCAMA lugs or Alatet headsets
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Nippon produced Raleigh cycles did not receive Vagner DP+ fork crowns, BOCAMA lugs or Alatet headsets
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#28
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I need one of those shifters for my sister-in-law's bike. She has an old Panasonic on which someone replaced the Positron and the current thumbshifter is giving her hand fits.
I love these bikes, both the 5- and the 10-speed versions. Gave one to my sister. Liked building them, liked selling them. Best steel wheels ever.
I love these bikes, both the 5- and the 10-speed versions. Gave one to my sister. Liked building them, liked selling them. Best steel wheels ever.
Last edited by thumpism; 03-02-23 at 04:58 PM.
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The Sprite is cleaning up nicely. The paint still has a fair amount of luminosity to it - Raleigh should have painted everything, their paint was so much better than their chrome. Although I was surprised how well the Nervar cranks shined up, considering how thick the rust was on them. I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow.
#30
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presence of Alatet headset tells us steerer threaded 24TPI
nice Vagner DP+ forged crown
lug pattern appears BOCAMA 18/I
seating pad on outer face of brake bridge is a feature which came in about 1976 on frames of this calibre
presence of centrepull bridge tells us it likely came fitted with Weinmann centrepull brakes
housing stop for covered cable type front mech suggests gear ensemble may have been MAEDA at this era
"Type II" cotterless bottom bracket assembly suggests it may have been fitted with a Sakae Ringyo chainset Raleigh used at this era
would expect it to be at least three-tube 531 plain gauge
expect pillar size of either 26.2 or 26.4
definitely pre-Huffman; may have come through the Oklahoma facility
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presence of Alatet headset tells us steerer threaded 24TPI
nice Vagner DP+ forged crown
lug pattern appears BOCAMA 18/I
seating pad on outer face of brake bridge is a feature which came in about 1976 on frames of this calibre
presence of centrepull bridge tells us it likely came fitted with Weinmann centrepull brakes
housing stop for covered cable type front mech suggests gear ensemble may have been MAEDA at this era
"Type II" cotterless bottom bracket assembly suggests it may have been fitted with a Sakae Ringyo chainset Raleigh used at this era
would expect it to be at least three-tube 531 plain gauge
expect pillar size of either 26.2 or 26.4
definitely pre-Huffman; may have come through the Oklahoma facility
-----
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#31
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It's my size and I really don't need it but would they ship? OR if it doesn't find a home and it is headed to recycle would it be possible to just buy the fork and headset and have them shipped? Those I do need for my '66 Raleigh Carlton.
This tall Raleigh has been hanging on the hook for a bit. Tried selling for $75, build it yourself and no takers.
march, it goes down to $50 before finally…….the recycle bin.
it’s a shame because it is real pretty, patina and all. No idea the year or model.
not enough time in the day to save every C&V that comes in.
march, it goes down to $50 before finally…….the recycle bin.
it’s a shame because it is real pretty, patina and all. No idea the year or model.
not enough time in the day to save every C&V that comes in.
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This co-op does not and will not ship.
Everyone rides their bike to and from there.
There is no phone number there.
The place opens after UPS (bike flights) stops picking up.
Not my rule. Please find a way to beautiful Portland and buy in person. Tax free,
Everyone rides their bike to and from there.
There is no phone number there.
The place opens after UPS (bike flights) stops picking up.
Not my rule. Please find a way to beautiful Portland and buy in person. Tax free,
Last edited by Robvolz; 03-07-23 at 01:30 PM.
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Bummer. Breaks my heart to see that get melted down though. Especially that fork. Hopefully someone will save it.
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Plus, unlike a thumbie, you're not constantly cranking your wrist into some ridiculous position to change gears. I can't stand them, personally; don't know the fascination behind them other than nostalgia. They're never in the right place and matched SunTour ratchets and RDs are usually fairly stiff to move, making it even less comfortable to operate.
-Kurt
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GripShift is generally condemned on Bike Forums, and the cheapest versions can be pretty bad, but the better versions are still cheap compared to trigger shifters, and they work flawlessly and almost effortlessly. Just make sure that you buy the Shimano-compatible version. If your sister in law doesn't read Bike Forums, she'll probably be very happy with GripShift.
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#36
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I've had thumb shifters and trigger shifters on various bikes that gave me problems, particularly in cold weather (arthritis). Having since bought a 1995 Cannondale hybrid with GripShift, I strongly recommend that solution for your sister in law.
GripShift is generally condemned on Bike Forums, and the cheapest versions can be pretty bad, but the better versions are still cheap compared to trigger shifters, and they work flawlessly and almost effortlessly. Just make sure that you buy the Shimano-compatible version. If your sister in law doesn't read Bike Forums, she'll probably be very happy with GripShift.
GripShift is generally condemned on Bike Forums, and the cheapest versions can be pretty bad, but the better versions are still cheap compared to trigger shifters, and they work flawlessly and almost effortlessly. Just make sure that you buy the Shimano-compatible version. If your sister in law doesn't read Bike Forums, she'll probably be very happy with GripShift.
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I use GripShift on a couple of bikes and like it but her hand problems compromise her grip so that's out. She has tried them on her husband's bike and says the won't work for her. I figure a long stem shifter, such as that SunTour Power stem shifter, will give her the leverage to shift using the heel of her hand rather than having to grasp.
They can be hard to find now but Shimano made 7 speed indexed stem shifters. I used a set on my first attempt at a gravel bike conversion to an old Schwinn World Sport and it worked reall nicely, especially since I ride the top of my drop bars most of the time. Very easy to shift and much of the time I just used the heel of my hand below my thumb lightly resting on top of the lever with my fingers still in contact with the bar. I know stem shifters are frowned upon but these worked so smoothly! When I dismantled the bike I saved them and will use them again.
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Last edited by Murray Missile; 03-04-23 at 08:03 AM.
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I use GripShift on a couple of bikes and like it but her hand problems compromise her grip so that's out. She has tried them on her husband's bike and says the won't work for her. I figure a long stem shifter, such as that SunTour Power stem shifter, will give her the leverage to shift using the heel of her hand rather than having to grasp.
A light derailer spring coupled with a light feeling trigger might be the best thing here.
-Kurt
#39
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Do you have a coaster-brake wheel back there somewhere? This is antithesis to what you described about keeping it original but if you just strip off all the accoutrement and do single-speed/coaster-brake and a maybe a lighter saddle it would be a very lively coffee/path bike and usable if you're in a flat area
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Or perhaps you could consider facilitating the purchase and shipping of the fork and headset for Murray Missile -- would generate a few $$ for your co-op and generate some good karma for you by keeping at least part of this nice old frame from being junked and for helping out a fellow BFer -- and a fork and headset are not too difficult to pack and ship....
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This tall Raleigh has been hanging on the hook for a bit. Tried selling for $75, build it yourself and no takers.
march, it goes down to $50 before finally…….the recycle bin.
it’s a shame because it is real pretty, patina and all. No idea the year or model.
not enough time in the day to save every C&V that comes in.
march, it goes down to $50 before finally…….the recycle bin.
it’s a shame because it is real pretty, patina and all. No idea the year or model.
not enough time in the day to save every C&V that comes in.
remove the headset and bag it.
remove the headbadge
maybe sell the fork on eBay. ( maybe with headset if it is a 26 tpi type)
tall guys are cheap.
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https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
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https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
#44
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Let me know. I don't have a single-side mount, or a complete left shifter assembly. But I am willing to part with it for a reasonable price.
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
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Took the frame from out of the bin again.
took a few pics….
took a few pics….
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#48
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Here's a quick "after" picture of the Sprite.
The crank had to be replaced because the drive side pedal threads were stripped out, and everything else in the drive train had to be replaced because the old bits could not work with the new bits. Fortunately I was able to find a crank that would take the original cotters with the R nuts.
Honestly, I would have to say this was not worth the time to get it into usable but not spectacular condition. Next time I have to rehab a bike of this quality I will probably harvest the R nuts and other saleable parts and then see if it makes sense to build the frame back up with whatever we have on hand.
The crank had to be replaced because the drive side pedal threads were stripped out, and everything else in the drive train had to be replaced because the old bits could not work with the new bits. Fortunately I was able to find a crank that would take the original cotters with the R nuts.
Honestly, I would have to say this was not worth the time to get it into usable but not spectacular condition. Next time I have to rehab a bike of this quality I will probably harvest the R nuts and other saleable parts and then see if it makes sense to build the frame back up with whatever we have on hand.
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Here's a quick "after" picture of the Sprite.
The crank had to be replaced because the drive side pedal threads were stripped out, and everything else in the drive train had to be replaced because the old bits could not work with the new bits. Fortunately I was able to find a crank that would take the original cotters with the R nuts.
Honestly, I would have to say this was not worth the time to get it into usable but not spectacular condition. Next time I have to rehab a bike of this quality I will probably harvest the R nuts and other saleable parts and then see if it makes sense to build the frame back up with whatever we have on hand.
The crank had to be replaced because the drive side pedal threads were stripped out, and everything else in the drive train had to be replaced because the old bits could not work with the new bits. Fortunately I was able to find a crank that would take the original cotters with the R nuts.
Honestly, I would have to say this was not worth the time to get it into usable but not spectacular condition. Next time I have to rehab a bike of this quality I will probably harvest the R nuts and other saleable parts and then see if it makes sense to build the frame back up with whatever we have on hand.
In addition, you are building character, always a good thing, in retrospect, I guess.
#50
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/291672397271
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185170434257
I've done business with the first vendor; my experiences were positive. No history with second vendor.
Unfortunately, both have a left shifter mount (with factory cover for the shifter boss) to allow for potential future addition of left shift lever. Neither of them seems to be a "Power Shifter".
Edited to add: there are also some others, including this Suntour "8.8.8" model. Still in unopened factory bag, so it's hard to tell whether it has a left-side mounting boss or not. It's considerably more than the others, though (est $40-45 with shipping and sales tax). I've done business with this vendor too; they seem good also.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/314304771393
Shipping quoted for all the above items was to my location, so it may vary to yours.
Might be a Power Shifter single quill-mount out there somewhere too. Just did a quick look and didn't see one with right-only shifter boss, but I might have missed it.
Last edited by Hondo6; 03-17-23 at 06:42 AM. Reason: Add info, correct awkward wording.