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Changing the Gearing on my Touring Bike

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Old 06-09-21, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by AMoney
... is there any need to have a chain keeper the inner-side if I keep the 26 tooth chainring? ...
I automatically put a chain catcher on all my bikes when I built them up. I do not even think about it anymore, when I build up a new bike put one on. My road bike, I bought that as a complete bike instead of building from parts and I added a chain catcher to that too.

Photo is from my rando bike with chain catcher.

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Old 06-09-21, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bulette
I use friction shifting for my triples; thumb-shifters can be had for under $20, though the finish on the $30-50 models are much higher quality.

The chain keeper is mostly (in my experience) helpful when there is a large drop from middle to small ring - the chain can miss the small ring and can be difficult to get unstuck. The first time you wrap a chain around the bottom bracket and frame, you'll wish you had one.

The derailleur might ride high on any non-standard rings. There is a reason Shimano makes several cranks with near perfect 10-tooth steps: the derailleur swings out and over each ring with (relatively) small clearances. That said, from the anecdotes here, and my own experience, it is not a practical problem - at least, for touring.
I haven’t used a chain catcher in ages and I run far larger steps then you will. I have a 46/34/20(!!!!) and don’t regularly drop chains.
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Old 06-13-21, 11:26 PM
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Shimano makes a 12-36 rear cassette that works well with the 48/36/26 front crank. I made the change from the 11-34 and love it. The 26 granny and 36 rear get me up most hills here in Wales - with luggage!
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Old 06-14-21, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I haven’t used a chain catcher in ages and I run far larger steps then you will. I have a 46/34/20(!!!!) and don’t regularly drop chains.
Stuart,

What crankset are you using for this? Thanks.
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Old 06-14-21, 06:19 PM
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My Bruce Gordon was designed for touring from the beginning, it has a 46/36/24 on the front, and seven cogs in the rear. I use it as three separate 'ranges.' The 24 gets used with the three largest rear cogs, at which point it overlaps with the middle ring which gets used with the rear gears 2-5. The 46 gets used with the 5-7 on the rear, but the combination of Vermont's terrain and my puny muscles makes that a rare event.
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Old 06-14-21, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AMoney
The thing I like about the 36 tooth middle ring is that I can spend the majority of my ride in that ring...Also, having a low gear of 26/34 is sufficient, even when I'm biking up a hill on a fully loaded touring bike (I like to climb!).
Moneypenny,

My setup is a 42/37/24 triple, with a 13-28 9 speed cassette. I use an Ultegra GS RD, and a CX70 front derailler, which is not spec'd for a triple but works just fine. With this setup, I ride primarily in the middle/37 ring.

The cassette is a modified Shimano HG-50 13-25. As stock, it has 13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25. I remove the 14 and add a Miche 28T at the back, for 13-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-28. I do most of my riding in 15-16-17, one-tooth steps, very comfortable. The 37-28 is low enough for most of my riding, but when I hit the occasional killer hill, I have a lowest gear of 24-28. Works every time!

I use 42 big ring and the 13 first position cog to pedal downhill. That is plenty high for me.

What matters most to me is comfortable steps between gears, and this setup works for that. I have ten usable, sequential steps, plus the granny. If you're wondering why I have a 37T middle ring rather than the more-common 36 or 38, it was on sale at Harris Cyclery one day while I was in. I would have preferred a 38T, but they were sold out! When/if it wears out I will replace it with a 38T. I like TA chainrings, available in every size and BCD.

All best.

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Old 06-14-21, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BCDrums
Stuart,

What crankset are you using for this? Thanks.
I have a couple of Race Face 94/58 BCD cranks from the late 90s that take 20 tooth inners. Those are on my nonShimano (i.e. no Shimano allowed) mountain bikes. On my touring bike and another mountain bike I have 104/64 XT Hollowtech II. I’ve modified the inner ring by filing away some of the post material to fit a 20 tooth inner. Here’s a video I used (not mine) to modify the crank

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Old 06-15-21, 06:31 AM
  #33  
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What is your goal in changing the big ring? You want to get out of the middle ring and spend more time in the big ring?

I have 26/36/48 rings, and don't use the tallest 1/2 of the gears in the big ring, but I have all the gears I need.
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Old 06-17-21, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bulette
My current setup is 42/36/22....
Originally Posted by cyccommute
... I run far larger steps then you will. I have a 46/34/20(!!!!) and don’t regularly drop chains.
That's a silly bet since I could prove that statement wrong today. But even more to the point, your "extreme" setup of 34-20 has a step of 14 teeth, exactly the same as my current setup of 36-22 = 14. Furthermore, a chain catcher is cheap, weighs less than an ounce, and is readily available -- suggesting that many cyclists still find them useful, including some of the respondents in this thread.

Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
I automatically put a chain catcher on all my bikes...
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Old 06-17-21, 04:56 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Bulette
That's a silly bet since I could prove that statement wrong today. But even more to the point, your "extreme" setup of 34-20 has a step of 14 teeth, exactly the same as my current setup of 36-22 = 14.
I just checked and I was mistaken. I’m using a 36 tooth middle with a 48 tooth outer. 16 tooth difference between inner and middle. 28 tooth difference overall. Shimano says that Sora only has a 20 tooth capacity. It also say that it should only handle an 11 tooth difference from large to middle. Shimano is always too conservative in what their derailers will do. All this is paired with an 11-36 9 speed cassette. I’m pushing the limits of both the front and rear derailers with a 119” to 15” gear range (785%). It’s more than you can buy off the peg by a lot. And it took a fair amount of thought to make it all work…modifying the crank, installing a Wolftooth Road Link so that the XTR 9 speed rear derailer has the proper range, and just getting hands on an 11-36 cassette.

And all this is while using indexed STI shifters.

Furthermore, a chain catcher is cheap, weighs less than an ounce, and is readily available -- suggesting that many cyclists still find them useful, including some of the respondents in this thread.
I’m not saying that they are completely useless but I haven’t needed one for ages…my derailers are adjusted properly.
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Old 06-17-21, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
…my derailers are adjusted properly.
Implying that everyone else is improperly adjusting theirs? Guess I'll just stop discussing these matters with you...
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