Thanks. I took it for a spin around the neighborhood to try and get a feel for a fixie without brakes, After all the work I have done on this bike, I may end up keeping it for myself. I need to find an original saddle bag.

I might be able to help you out w/ that^ Let me do some digging

Success! After a lot of bending stretching and filing, I was able to get both wheels mounted. I did take the lock nuts off the front wheel and was able to stretch the fork the rest of the way. I think I have shaved about 10 pounds off the bike with the removal of the fenders and chainguard. New tires and innertubes also saved some weight. It had the original Dunlap tires and tubes. At least I assume they were original since Dunlop stopped making bike tires (tyres) and tubes in the mid 1960s.
Still no word from Harris, though. I doubt I will be placing any more orders with them for a while.
Now I am pondering buying a new Brooks Millbrook bag. These are supposed to be more well made copies of the original Raleigh bags. Apparently the reason you don't see any of the original bags is they have all fallen apart.

I have two original bags, both in good shape. Let me know if you're interested in one

Really nice looking i wanted to do something similar to a raleigh frame i had.

Keep your eye on the cones. The old Raleigh hubs had an axle stop for the right side cone, leaving the left side for adjusting and float. It could loosen but never tighten and trash the bearing races.

Good advise. I did notice the stop on the old axle. I wonder if I could modify the new one to create a stop. i am thinking a little solder on the threads?
edit: Okay, solder is probably not a good idea as it could break off and get in the bearings. Any other thoughts?

Red Locktite on the side you want to stay.
As for cold setting. I use a turnbuckle that I bought from Ace and some threaded rod, a coupla nuts and wide flat washers. It really works well and eliminates worries about even spread. Just make sure you get a turnbuckle that has reverse theads