Anyone ever have any problems with a 50/34 compact and a standard Shimano or Campy front derailleur.

FSA has a compact FD on the market, and I was wondering if it's really an advance on what's already out there.

Not worth it my opinion. I switched to a compact carbon crank (50/34) just before the Triple Bypass in Colorado. I kept my Dura Ace front derailleur (lowered by 1/2 inch on the seat tube) and it shifted fine between the climbs and descents (and minor flat spots on occassion).

It's just a marketing ploy...stay away from the evil marketiong folks in cycling!!! Remember, they are also the ones who want their components weight in bright BOLD numbers and letters (while being weighed on the 3rd moon of Jupiter to shave an extra few grams....).

Best to use a triple front derailleur. It handles the lower inner chainring better better than a standard double. I've got an Ultegra triple on both my cross and road which both run compact. I've seen the FSA, although, it doesn't look any better than the Ultegra triple.

-s

::hopes thread doesn't turn in another triple vs. compact::

Are you using a 9 speed front der with a 10 speed setup? It will work but the shifting is sloppy as the cage is wider to work with the 9 speed chain. I found that by switching to a 10 speed der, my compact shifted much better.

55/Rad

I use the standard Centaur 10s front der on my wifes bike with the FSA carbon compact 50/34. I found that the der required much more precise setting to prevent it from pushing the chain off when upshifting to the big ring. At first it would drop the chain on the outside everytime she shifted. After adjusting the set-screw several times, I managed to get it to work just right. Also dropping the chain on the dowshift was an issue initially as well. Overall it is more finicky to set up than a standard 53/39 chainring set, but will work just fine once it is tweeked out.
The design of the compact der is made to prevent this, and make t easier to set up, without being so finicky. Overall, I think they all work, but they do act a little differantly with differant sized rings.

I am in the process of changing my 50/34 Deda compact from Chorus double to Chorus CT. I plan to post the results - probably a week or two.

I am doing this because I just can't eliminate some kind of chain/front der interference in many gear combos. It has been suggested that it is the chain hitting the top of the cage, but we shall see. Or not.

I've been using a chorus double with a 50/34 and it has been shifting fine. ird also makes a compact front der... https://www.interlocracing.com/cdfrtder.html, but I really think a double will work fine. just lower it a bit and check the alignment.

I had my LBS put an FSA 50/34 on my 1986 Trek with Shimano SIS downtube shifters. Did not change FD and it works just fine.

i didn't even move my FD when i installed.

Mine shifts fine as well. It simply will not allow elimination of the chain rub.

Same here. Barely needed any adjustment, and its been working fine so far....

I am using an Ultegra Triple FD with my Ritchey WCS. Just because I am anal I lowered the derailleur and it shifts fine. I had some chain dropping issues when going from big ring to small but it turned out the cage wasn't perfectly straight...works perfectly now.

(in the voice of Sydney) "well, you should have"

Seriously - the gap between the der and the chainring is wider than is recommended - by a lot - but if it works for you, terrific. Is that an OCLV frame with a braze-on tab that won't allow the der to go any lower? If so, I have 2 ideas to help that.

55/Rad

I'm running a Centaur compact only because it was available when I bought the components to build with and it was the same price so I figured it certainly couldn't hurt. It was pretty quick and easy to setup, however I don't see too much difference between it and a standard double front derailleur. I don't see any reason why a compact FD is absolutely mandatory by any stretch of the imagination.

I put a Ritchey WCS compact on my KHS Flite 2000 whcih has a braze on front derailleur tab that would not allow the FD to be lowered sufficiently. I bought the compact FD made by IRD and it works flawlessly. So I guess if your setup allows proper adjustment, stick with what you have. If not, try the IRD or FSA options.

https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/123238-compact-crank-overload.html

yeah, figured i was supposed to have moved it, but when i got on a took a spin around the block, everything checked out just fine and has worked grat since. i'll do it anyway when i'm in the mood.

...are you accusing me of owning a trek?! bah! kidding...it's s kestrel 200sci. there's actually a whole 'nother inch that i can lower the DR on the bracket.