Roof vs Trunk Rack
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: Trek 1000
Roof vs Trunk Rack
Hi,
my GF and I are currently considering to get a rack, but unsure whether we should get a roof or trunk rack for her 4-dr Jetta. I am concerned about the visibility out of the back with a trunk rack, then again the fuel-economy problems with a roof-rack. How does a trunk rack affect the fuel economy? I also heard that the hot exhausts could damage tires if a bike is trunk-mounted?
We would probably take our bikes on the car 1-2x/ month during the summer, but who knows maybe more often, if we find nice places to go bike and if it is easy to mount them. We have a pair of road bikes: 60cm Trek and a 48cm Schwinn compact frame. They are obviously very different in size, is that going to be a problem?
my GF and I are currently considering to get a rack, but unsure whether we should get a roof or trunk rack for her 4-dr Jetta. I am concerned about the visibility out of the back with a trunk rack, then again the fuel-economy problems with a roof-rack. How does a trunk rack affect the fuel economy? I also heard that the hot exhausts could damage tires if a bike is trunk-mounted?
We would probably take our bikes on the car 1-2x/ month during the summer, but who knows maybe more often, if we find nice places to go bike and if it is easy to mount them. We have a pair of road bikes: 60cm Trek and a 48cm Schwinn compact frame. They are obviously very different in size, is that going to be a problem?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Southern California
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.9 SL
I'm not sure but I have gone through 2 different trunk racks and I hated having to install and remove everytime I wanted to carry my bike. Plus I had to be very careful with my cranks because they would scratch up the car. Also I did not like having 2 bikes so close to each other.... very easy to scratch. I had no way of locking the rack to my car. If you have a toe hitch it might be worthwhile but on a Jetta, I doubt it would be a good option.
I ended up putting a Thule Rack on my car and have never looked back. Everything locks into place and I can mount and unmount my bike much faster than I could with a rear mounted rack.
As for gas mileage, I have no idea because I get terrible gas mileage anyways... have a heavy foot...
The one thing that annoys me is the wind noise, make sure to get the wind deflector to make it quieter.
Also make sure to get locks for the rack and any other mounts you are going to purchase.
The size of the bikes will fit without any issues.
I ended up putting a Thule Rack on my car and have never looked back. Everything locks into place and I can mount and unmount my bike much faster than I could with a rear mounted rack.
As for gas mileage, I have no idea because I get terrible gas mileage anyways... have a heavy foot...
The one thing that annoys me is the wind noise, make sure to get the wind deflector to make it quieter.
Also make sure to get locks for the rack and any other mounts you are going to purchase.
The size of the bikes will fit without any issues.
#5
Allez!!! Allez!!!

Joined: May 2004
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From: Atlanta, GA
Bikes: Gunnar Roadie w/Dura Ace, Benotto w/105
It really depends on what you want, and the distances you will travel with the bikes there. I find that many people end up damaging their frames with trunk racks cause they cinch down the frames and drive--no regard to the fact that cables are right against the frame, and no regard for rotating wheels that also turn and bang up against things. I've had two bikes damaged on trunk racks--one where the fork was almost sawed completely through by a mount on the other bike that was rubbing during the whole trip, and another that was pretty badly scratched up from the cable rubbing against the frame under the cradle that held that part of the frame. That being said, I've also had a bike damage on a roof rack from trying to drive into the garage with it--needed to replace the seatpost and seat at that time. I like my roof rack a lot more than I like trunk racks, and I now have a mirror mounted on the dash to be able to easily see the bikes while I'm driving. But, I hardly ever put my bike on the roof, since I can fit it in the back seat too. I'd think trunk racks would affect gas mileage much less, but that only matters if you are driving hours away from your house, not miles.
#6
You Know!? For Kids!



Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Just NW of Richardson Bike Mart
Bikes: '05 Trek 1200 / '90 Trek 8000 / '? Falcon Europa
i have had trunk racks, hitch mounted rear racks and roof racks. Roof racks are by far my favorite. The trunk rack ended up damaging the paint on the rear deck lid of my VW. The hitch mounted rack drags going up or down steep drives. The roof rack does neither and I do not notice decreased mileage with it. Just have to remember you have bikes up there when going thru drive thrus, into garages etc. Also, since bikes attach to most roof racks only at rear tire and fork, or both tires and down tube, they fit a majority of bikes. Bikes attach to most rear mount racks by hanging from the top tube, which can be a challenge on small frames or womens frames. In some cases you have to buy a bar that attaches to stem and seat post to make a "top tube" to attach a womens bike.
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#7
Wow....lots of problems with trunk racks out there. I have a Saris Bones 3 trunk rack myself which I have used to haul 2 mountain bikes up to 100 miles on with no issues. I've also used it to haul my road bike about the same distance. I've been on the interstate cruising at 80mph with no issues.
The other posts are correct about potential damage issues with them though. I have to be careful about how I mount it to my trunk to make sure it is very secure. Also, I usually tie something through my crank arm and back wheel to keep them from spinning. The front wheels are tied to my down tube as well to keep the wheel from moving back and forth. The positioning of the arms on the rack is very adjustable but you would definitely want to make sure that your bikes would fit on the rack, and on your car with no issues as posted above. No visibility issues out the back for me
Bottom line is a roof rack is better, but also much more expensive. That extra $ is well worth it though vs. loosing your bike off of the back of the car or damage to your bike or car if it does not fit properly. I only use mine 3-4 times/yr max and it works for my needs though.
The other posts are correct about potential damage issues with them though. I have to be careful about how I mount it to my trunk to make sure it is very secure. Also, I usually tie something through my crank arm and back wheel to keep them from spinning. The front wheels are tied to my down tube as well to keep the wheel from moving back and forth. The positioning of the arms on the rack is very adjustable but you would definitely want to make sure that your bikes would fit on the rack, and on your car with no issues as posted above. No visibility issues out the back for me
Bottom line is a roof rack is better, but also much more expensive. That extra $ is well worth it though vs. loosing your bike off of the back of the car or damage to your bike or car if it does not fit properly. I only use mine 3-4 times/yr max and it works for my needs though.
#8
Cycle for life...
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,338
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From: Southern Indiana
Bikes: Trek 5200 | Cannondale Six13 TeamOne | Cannondale Road Tandem | Cannondale Prophet 3 "Lefty"
Once you try a roof rack ... you won't be going back to anything else IMO. I've been using a Yakima roof rack since 1992 and it is the best thing since sliced bread (errr ... Pizza too!)
IMO -- roof racks are safer (for the bike and car), more stable, and provide piece of mind.
+1 on the core locks and wind deflector.
IMO -- roof racks are safer (for the bike and car), more stable, and provide piece of mind.
+1 on the core locks and wind deflector.
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18' Landshark Tandem - Custom
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-\Brian
18' Landshark Tandem - Custom
15' Wabi Special Single-Speed Road
06' Cannondale Six13 TeamOne
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92' Trek 5200
#9
I get high on lactic acid
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 725
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From: Ontario, Canada
Bikes: 2003 Cervelo P3/2003 Trek 2000/2005 Norco EXC 2.0ht
Make sure if you drive in the rain......dont. It forces water into every little space, and rusts the hell outa crap.
You can also by a wind gaurd that goes from your forks, over the handlebars and over your seat. It helps protect your bike.
You can also by a wind gaurd that goes from your forks, over the handlebars and over your seat. It helps protect your bike.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Prague, Czech Republic
Bikes: Time ADH01, Merlin Extra Light, Orbea Orca, Ritchey Outback,Tomac Revolver Mountain Bike, Cannondale Crit 3.0 now used for time trials.
I have used a Yakima (made in California) roof rack since 1988. The bikes arrive safe and sound every time. The benefit of a Yakima - or Thule style system is its expandability. You can add many more bike mounts, storage boxes (Yakima Space Case, etc.) ski holders, kayak holders, canoe holders, baskets, tandem mounting devices, etc. Yes, a wind deflector is a good idea but Yakima makes this little faring that slides in the center of the front cross bar that works too. The comment about gettng locking bike mounts is a good one - do it for peace of mind. The only way that I would go with a trunk mount would be if it were the type that fit into a tow hitch reciever (box mount) and if I had shoulder problems and could not lift my bike up onto the roof. BTW, if you go with a roof mound, invest the $25 in a bike bra. It will keep the bugs and other stuff off the bike. Look at your windshield.
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Prague, Czech Republic
Bikes: Time ADH01, Merlin Extra Light, Orbea Orca, Ritchey Outback,Tomac Revolver Mountain Bike, Cannondale Crit 3.0 now used for time trials.
Also, the roof mount systems allow you to transport other things such as lumber, latters, even sofas!
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Another vote for the roof rack. We have one on our big ol' Odyssey, which we formerly had on our Audi A4 wagon. It's very secure and out of the way, no worries, about losing your bike if you get rear-ended. My only problem is that with a van, it's way up there. But with a Jetta, you should have no problems.
Just don't forget you've got bikes on the roof when you drive into the garage! I know a guy who did that and destroyed a beautiful Merlin Ti frame. Oy!
Just don't forget you've got bikes on the roof when you drive into the garage! I know a guy who did that and destroyed a beautiful Merlin Ti frame. Oy!
#13
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Let me second this comment!! Lost my 2 month old Trek 2100 last November when I happily pulled in to my garage after a ride. I sat in stunned silence for 10 minutes afraid to look at the carnage that awaited me. It wasn't pretty. Bike was a loss as well as the roof rack itself. I now have a new bike and a new roof rack with stickers throughout my car that say "Got Bike?" IMHO roof rack is still the way to go just be aware.
#14
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 23
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: Trek 1000
thanks for all the helpful comments. We live in an Apartment without a Garage, so we won't be killing the bikes that way, but I will make sure to get something on the inside of the car telling me to think of the bikes. I guess I will be going for a roof rack in a couple of paychecks. As for driving distance, probably 20-40 miles somewhat regularly and 300 miles every other month (going to her parents).
again, thanks for the insights.
Now the question will become: fork mount or upright mount!?
again, thanks for the insights.
Now the question will become: fork mount or upright mount!?
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Prague, Czech Republic
Bikes: Time ADH01, Merlin Extra Light, Orbea Orca, Ritchey Outback,Tomac Revolver Mountain Bike, Cannondale Crit 3.0 now used for time trials.
Pulled into the garage? I have a friend who's girl friend drove through a drive through bank teller lane and did about the same damage. Bike was on top of a SUV.
My bike rides on top of my Trooper. Yea, it's up there but it's also out of reach for most who would want to mess with it.
My bike rides on top of my Trooper. Yea, it's up there but it's also out of reach for most who would want to mess with it.
#16
1/2 a binding 1/2 a brain

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,707
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From: Dillon, CO
Bikes: Serotta Ottrott ST, Titus RX100, Seven Sola 29er HT in the works
The best scenario if it's an option is to put the bike in the car. Most of the time, my bike rides in the car.
But....
I sold my fork mount Thule bike rack and switched to this style:
This type won't require the removal of the front wheel and therefore saves time and space. I went this route after getting a mountain bike with disc brakes because the disc interferes with most fork mount heads.
But....
I sold my fork mount Thule bike rack and switched to this style:
This type won't require the removal of the front wheel and therefore saves time and space. I went this route after getting a mountain bike with disc brakes because the disc interferes with most fork mount heads.
Last edited by telenick; 07-14-05 at 05:28 PM.
#17
Allez!!! Allez!!!

Joined: May 2004
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From: Atlanta, GA
Bikes: Gunnar Roadie w/Dura Ace, Benotto w/105
Assuming your putting road bikes up there, I'd go fork mount. It seems more secure, IMO. Also, I'm not sure if the upright ones are lockable at all????
#18
A Lost Member

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 359
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From: Aiken, SC
Bikes: '03 Felt 35R, ~'88 Basso fixie
if you have the money, roof rack... but they will set you back compared to a truck/hitch...and as stated before spend the money and get lock-cores...
personally I have one fork (steelhead) and one crank arm (ankle biter), I do not like the ankle biter, I have NEVER put my road bike on it (carbon crank) but I did put my SS MTB on it, it is nice that you dont have to take the front wheel off, but it just does not seem to be as stable and honestly it is more difficult to put the bike on b/c you have to hold the bike upride with one hand, while with the other spin the crank arm around and lock it to the racks arm...if you do it wrong the bike will come down on top of you...or the other way on to the roof of the car (I dont know which one is worse)
personally I have one fork (steelhead) and one crank arm (ankle biter), I do not like the ankle biter, I have NEVER put my road bike on it (carbon crank) but I did put my SS MTB on it, it is nice that you dont have to take the front wheel off, but it just does not seem to be as stable and honestly it is more difficult to put the bike on b/c you have to hold the bike upride with one hand, while with the other spin the crank arm around and lock it to the racks arm...if you do it wrong the bike will come down on top of you...or the other way on to the roof of the car (I dont know which one is worse)
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Alexandria VA
Bikes: Specialized Allez Comp Cro-Mo
I have a trunk mount. It's scratching up the paint on my trunk and is basically a pain in the behind. Looking to get a roof rack by end of summer.
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2006 Specialized Allez Comp Cro-Mo
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#20
Also, the roof mount systems allow you to transport other things such as lumber, latters, even sofas!
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 247
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From: Eastern Long Island
Bikes: DeBernardi road ... Pedal Force RS2....Gary Fisher mountain
I've had multiple years of Jettas and Golfs and can tell you that if you decide to get a rack, then a roof rack is the way to go. If you decide to get a roof rack, get a Thule rack (not Yakima) since Thule has a very specific model of foot mount for the VWs. For the older cars it was a Thule 305.
Roof racks are expensive though, and right now I just pop off both wheels and put one bike in the Golf trunk and one in the back seat. They're inside, safer, quieter and make no difference on gas mileage (which means nothing anyway....you have a VW after all). Only thing is....this is definitely not very "OCP-like"!
Roof racks are expensive though, and right now I just pop off both wheels and put one bike in the Golf trunk and one in the back seat. They're inside, safer, quieter and make no difference on gas mileage (which means nothing anyway....you have a VW after all). Only thing is....this is definitely not very "OCP-like"!
#22
1/2 a binding 1/2 a brain

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,707
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From: Dillon, CO
Bikes: Serotta Ottrott ST, Titus RX100, Seven Sola 29er HT in the works
Originally Posted by martin_j001
Assuming your putting road bikes up there, I'd go fork mount. It seems more secure, IMO. Also, I'm not sure if the upright ones are lockable at all????
They're lockable.
They're secure.
They put absolutely no lateral stress on the fork dropouts. I will agree it's a debateable issue .
IMO, they are superior to fork mounts.
I have used fork mounts for 20 years.
#24
1/2 a binding 1/2 a brain

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 2
From: Dillon, CO
Bikes: Serotta Ottrott ST, Titus RX100, Seven Sola 29er HT in the works
Originally Posted by jbhowat
Lateral stress on the fork drop-outs? HAHAHAhAHAHAA
Ride your bike much.....?
Ride your bike much.....?
Yes. But I ride mine with the front tire as the point of contact. Do you ride yours without? I'd recommend you switch to a unicycle. I'm getting pretty good on my unicycle.
Hey, what do you know about stress on fork dropouts? I don't know anything and admit it. Give us the scoop.
#25
Burnt Orange Blood
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Dripping Springs, Texas
Bikes: Trek 7200, Lashout Electric Bike, Raleigh Talon
I have a convertible so I can't use a roof rack and my car style is such that I can't add a hitch, so a trunk rack is my only choice. I got a Saris Bones two-bike rack and couldn't be happier with it. No damage to the bikes or the car if you make sure that the pedals are lined up so as not to touch each other or the car. My husband came up with a way to lock the bikes to the rack and the rack to the car and the cable also keeps the wheels from spinning but bungie cords would work as well. It's also easy to put on and remove and has six straps that hook to the top, sides, and bottom of the trunk lid.




