The "Antler" Bar
#1
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
Bikes: LHT, Kona Smoke
Let me first preface this post with this:
Every assertion I make only applies to me.
I have no desire to get into the ol' handlebar debate, but am only sharing what works for me.
If someone else takes benefit from my tinkering, all the better.
I've tried flat bars, I've tried drop bars. I've put aero's on both.
I've also tried the mustache bar.
But the "Antler Bar" is the only bar that has solved all my problems.
No more numb pinkies, no more "hook" thumbs, no more wrist pain, no more having my HANDS dictate how long I can ride.
The secret of the bar is "angles".
Instead of having a single bar (curved in whatever way ya like) which always forces the hand to "grasp" it, the A.B. creates 'near to right' angles in which the padded parts of the hand "rest". The fingers are free, and the all important Ulnar and Median nerves are not put under pressure.
The other thing the A.B. provides is 3 distinct handpositions (and a 4th "cruiser" position) all of which have variations on a theme.
Drop bars give you 2 distinct positions.. the drops, and the hoods. Riding on the tops is still using the same "pressure points" as is the drops (although it does turn the wrists), so only the hoods can provide a REAL change of pace - and no position on drops OR flats free the thumb for a relief!
So here's an overall picture (with all my dashboard accessories):

And here are the handpositions:
#1 - the primary position, and also the fastest. It's analogous to riding the hoods, but is a narrower position and thus more aerodynamic. It's also pretty damn comfy since most of the weight is on the heel of the hand

#2 - This position allows the heel of the hand to get some much needed rest. most of the weight is on the thumb "pad" and a bit across the calluses of the upper hand just b4 the fingers.
The wrist in this pic is only turned to take the photograph. In practice, it's much more straight.

#3 - The Flying Thumb! This is a great position for long slogs up 2 mile 8% grades. It gives you great control at those crawling speeds, and that opposable digit a much needed rest!

#4 - The Beach Cruiser. This position is very different then the previous in that you actually "grasp" the bar. Because of it's distance from the brake levers, this is only a resting position, or perhaps a cruising thru town at 10mph position. It puts the rider in a very upright stance; great for trying to spy out that ice cream stand that was supposed to be along this route....

...
Every assertion I make only applies to me.
I have no desire to get into the ol' handlebar debate, but am only sharing what works for me.
If someone else takes benefit from my tinkering, all the better.
I've tried flat bars, I've tried drop bars. I've put aero's on both.
I've also tried the mustache bar.
But the "Antler Bar" is the only bar that has solved all my problems.
No more numb pinkies, no more "hook" thumbs, no more wrist pain, no more having my HANDS dictate how long I can ride.
The secret of the bar is "angles".
Instead of having a single bar (curved in whatever way ya like) which always forces the hand to "grasp" it, the A.B. creates 'near to right' angles in which the padded parts of the hand "rest". The fingers are free, and the all important Ulnar and Median nerves are not put under pressure.
The other thing the A.B. provides is 3 distinct handpositions (and a 4th "cruiser" position) all of which have variations on a theme.
Drop bars give you 2 distinct positions.. the drops, and the hoods. Riding on the tops is still using the same "pressure points" as is the drops (although it does turn the wrists), so only the hoods can provide a REAL change of pace - and no position on drops OR flats free the thumb for a relief!
So here's an overall picture (with all my dashboard accessories):

And here are the handpositions:
#1 - the primary position, and also the fastest. It's analogous to riding the hoods, but is a narrower position and thus more aerodynamic. It's also pretty damn comfy since most of the weight is on the heel of the hand

#2 - This position allows the heel of the hand to get some much needed rest. most of the weight is on the thumb "pad" and a bit across the calluses of the upper hand just b4 the fingers.
The wrist in this pic is only turned to take the photograph. In practice, it's much more straight.

#3 - The Flying Thumb! This is a great position for long slogs up 2 mile 8% grades. It gives you great control at those crawling speeds, and that opposable digit a much needed rest!
#4 - The Beach Cruiser. This position is very different then the previous in that you actually "grasp" the bar. Because of it's distance from the brake levers, this is only a resting position, or perhaps a cruising thru town at 10mph position. It puts the rider in a very upright stance; great for trying to spy out that ice cream stand that was supposed to be along this route....

...
Last edited by Bikepacker67; 08-01-05 at 07:57 PM.
#2
I've always wanted to add 'antlers' to my moustache bars but have been unsuccessful at locating bar ends that fit over the road bar diameter. Any ideas? I even thought of chopping down aero bars down to short snubs to fit over my moustache bars.
I would like to install bar ends (not inward, but forward) where the orange vinyl tapes are.
I would like to install bar ends (not inward, but forward) where the orange vinyl tapes are.
Last edited by roadfix; 08-01-05 at 02:34 PM.
#3
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
Bikes: LHT, Kona Smoke
Originally Posted by The Fixer
I've always wanted to add 'antlers' to my moustache bars but have been unsuccessful at locating bar ends that fit over the road bar diameter. Any ideas? I even thought of chopping down aero bars down to short snubs to fit over my moustache bars.
Hmmm.. that is a prob.
Doubtful that you'll find any barends in road diameter, so cheap aeros and a hacksaw might be the way to go.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 50
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From: BC Canada
Bikes: Giant Cypress
Wow...
nice dashboard there Bikepacker....
I have end bars... but tend to only use them when my fingers go numb... just for the change on pressure points for blood flow...
But...that does nothing for arm position... and being perpetually in the same position when touring... or even just long joy rides...
I could see a couple of shorties on my handlebars... just enough to hook my thumb over ... to give control... and shift position...
way less tiring..
nice dashboard there Bikepacker....
I have end bars... but tend to only use them when my fingers go numb... just for the change on pressure points for blood flow...
But...that does nothing for arm position... and being perpetually in the same position when touring... or even just long joy rides...
I could see a couple of shorties on my handlebars... just enough to hook my thumb over ... to give control... and shift position...
way less tiring..
#6
Thread Starter
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
Bikes: LHT, Kona Smoke
Ummm...
are you looking at the first pic (of my full touring "dashboard"?)
If so, that fold out thing in the middle is pair of speakers
are you looking at the first pic (of my full touring "dashboard"?)
If so, that fold out thing in the middle is pair of speakers
#7
Originally Posted by Bikepacker67
Ummm...
are you looking at the first pic (of my full touring "dashboard"?)
If so, that fold out thing in the middle is pair of speakers
are you looking at the first pic (of my full touring "dashboard"?)
If so, that fold out thing in the middle is pair of speakers
#8
Spandex Disaster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 554
Likes: 0
From: Hillsville
Bikes: Scott Contessa CR1 (2006); Kona Dew Deluxe (2005); Roadmaster Little 500 SS (1997); Peugeot UO10 (1980)
Wow- what a great idea Bikepacker. Thanks for posting this. I could certainly use a similar set-up. Well done!
#9
'Mizer Cats are INSANE
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 808
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From: Clarksville, TN
Bikes: C-dale T800
Humm... as a real "handlebar weenie", if there is such a thing, I'm on my third set on the C'dale, and now I've got to start thinking about number 4. My question is were are the shifters, and how are the brakes rigged.
Thanks
Steve W.
Thanks
Steve W.
#10
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
Bikes: LHT, Kona Smoke
Originally Posted by velomedieval
Wow- what a great idea Bikepacker. Thanks for posting this. I could certainly use a similar set-up. Well done!
Glad it inspired ya. Go buy some extra barends, and experiment - that's what I did.
#11
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
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Originally Posted by Mentor58
Humm... as a real "handlebar weenie", if there is such a thing, I'm on my third set on the C'dale, and now I've got to start thinking about number 4. My question is were are the shifters, and how are the brakes rigged.
Thanks
Steve W.
Thanks
Steve W.
The shifters are just plain ol' rapid fires in the normal place on the flat bar, the brake levers are Cane Creek TT200's on the "aero" barends.
#13
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
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The speakers are awesome. Connect to my AM radio for the Bosox games, and my MP3 player for music.
They're light enough to be securely attatched to my "stem bags" via velcro, so they easily get removed and folded up when needed. It sounds like they could vibrate off, but I assure you, they are rock solid, til I "peel" them off.
They're light enough to be securely attatched to my "stem bags" via velcro, so they easily get removed and folded up when needed. It sounds like they could vibrate off, but I assure you, they are rock solid, til I "peel" them off.
#16
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
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Originally Posted by me
The other thing the A.B. provides is 3 distinct handpositions (and a 4th "cruiser" position) all of which have variations on a theme.
Most drop bar users will claim 5 handpositions. I think they only have 2.
Yes, they have different wrist angles, and body positions, but except for the hoods (which BTW, they ALWAYS seem to be using) the hand is engaging a single bar by grasping it.
That's fine when your going balls2wall in a race - when most of your weight is on your hammerin' quads.
But loaded touring needs a finer touch.
I'm not trying to actually convert folks to my "personally perfect" solution, but rather to prod them to think outside the box.
Ohh, and to appreciate right angles, instead of single (curvy or not) bars.
#17
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Illinois (near St. Louis)
Bikes: Specialized Expedition Sport, Surly LHT
Found your speakers in another thread- Radio Shack, gonna have to check those out.
Can you tell me where you got the stem bag? Haven't seen those yet (but wasn't really looking cause I didn't know they existed)
Thanks
Can you tell me where you got the stem bag? Haven't seen those yet (but wasn't really looking cause I didn't know they existed)
Thanks
#18
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
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Actually, those stem bags (and the front bag) are cheapo camera bags that I bought for about $20 total at one of those discount/closeout stores. They're attached with black zip ties - which are cheap enough to just clip off on the oft times when I need to remove the bags.... but some velcro straps would work just as well.
I used some industrial strength velcro on the tops of the bags (and the back of my electronics) to secure everything (and believe me, they don't budge a bit!) and when it starts to sprinkle, I have 3 elasticized, see-thru shower caps that fit perfectly over the two stem's and the front handlebar.
Here's a closer look:
I used some industrial strength velcro on the tops of the bags (and the back of my electronics) to secure everything (and believe me, they don't budge a bit!) and when it starts to sprinkle, I have 3 elasticized, see-thru shower caps that fit perfectly over the two stem's and the front handlebar.
Here's a closer look:
#19
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
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#22
GPL
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Near Chicago
Bikes: Trek Multitrack 700
Originally Posted by Bikepacker67
Actually, those stem bags (and the front bag) are cheapo camera bags that I bought for about $20 total at one of those discount/closeout stores. They're attached with black zip ties - which are cheap enough to just clip off on the oft times when I need to remove the bags.... but some velcro straps would work just as well.
I used some industrial strength velcro on the tops of the bags (and the back of my electronics) to secure everything (and believe me, they don't budge a bit!) and when it starts to sprinkle, I have 3 elasticized, see-thru shower caps that fit perfectly over the two stem's and the front handlebar.
I used some industrial strength velcro on the tops of the bags (and the back of my electronics) to secure everything (and believe me, they don't budge a bit!) and when it starts to sprinkle, I have 3 elasticized, see-thru shower caps that fit perfectly over the two stem's and the front handlebar.
I did make one modification: I used a utility knive to shave off the little nub along the spine of the speaker hinge so that it now opens up all the way into a flat position. This allows the speakers to rest more naturally on the tops of the bags and it allowed, in my case, a greater surface area for the velcro.
#23
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From: Ogopogo's shoreline
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Originally Posted by gpljr75
I found similar camera bags and bought the Radio Shack speakers as well. Everything mounts great. Thanks for sharing this setup!
I did make one modification: I used a utility knive to shave off the little nub along the spine of the speaker hinge so that it now opens up all the way into a flat position. This allows the speakers to rest more naturally on the tops of the bags and it allowed, in my case, a greater surface area for the velcro.
I did make one modification: I used a utility knive to shave off the little nub along the spine of the speaker hinge so that it now opens up all the way into a flat position. This allows the speakers to rest more naturally on the tops of the bags and it allowed, in my case, a greater surface area for the velcro.
Hey! I like that! I have to kinda smush the bags up to attach securely.
I guess I'll break out with the "implements of destruction" and void my warranty as well!
EDIT:
Ohhh Man! That's awesome!
It not only folds open completely flat, it actually "hyper-extends" about 5 degrees which actually makes it evenb BETTER for my bags!
Thanks! I love this place.... gotta get around to sending in my $25




