PAINT questions?...anybody..
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Do you know anything about this stuff? https://tinyurl.com/9ctcy
I understand that it's very durable. Not having to buy reducer appeals to me.
I understand that it's very durable. Not having to buy reducer appeals to me.
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Tell me about your spray equipment.
I just received the last of the decals I needed, so I'm planning to paint my wife's Peugeot this spring. I've got a Devilbiss JGA-502 with a Sharpe cup. My compressor is a 5hp with a 30 gallon tank. I have a water filter in the air line. I also have a Badger 200 air brush with its own little compressor. I hate to buy any more equipment, but I'm afraid that the big gun puts out too much paint and the air brush puts out too little. Should I be looking for a detail gun? Most of my spraying experience has been with varnish on wood.
I just received the last of the decals I needed, so I'm planning to paint my wife's Peugeot this spring. I've got a Devilbiss JGA-502 with a Sharpe cup. My compressor is a 5hp with a 30 gallon tank. I have a water filter in the air line. I also have a Badger 200 air brush with its own little compressor. I hate to buy any more equipment, but I'm afraid that the big gun puts out too much paint and the air brush puts out too little. Should I be looking for a detail gun? Most of my spraying experience has been with varnish on wood.
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I've seen some paint mentioned in other threads that has reflective glass beads in it. I've thought about doing something like this: Repaint the frame with the color I want, apply a coat of the refective paint, apply clear coat over that.
My question is, will the glass beads cause damage to the other paint layers as the frame flexes?
My question is, will the glass beads cause damage to the other paint layers as the frame flexes?
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Below is my post in a different forum... if you have any suggestions as to how to do this, esecially the chrome painting/removal, I'd be glad to hear them!!
Originally Posted by iBarna
My bike is based on a Bottecchia steel frame from the 60's. The frame seems chromed, and it's painted over with a blue paint, except the fork ends and the chain-/seatstay ends. The bike is great, but the frame is pretty beat up, and I see rust in places.
I would like to strip the frame and repaint it to a non-glossy black. I have no time or place to do any of the work myself. I have heard the praises of powder coating, which is what I would like to do, but I also have heard that stripping chrome is problematic. Anyone has experience with this?
And what are good places in San Francisco to get a bike frame powder coated or painted?
Your input is appreciated.
I would like to strip the frame and repaint it to a non-glossy black. I have no time or place to do any of the work myself. I have heard the praises of powder coating, which is what I would like to do, but I also have heard that stripping chrome is problematic. Anyone has experience with this?
And what are good places in San Francisco to get a bike frame powder coated or painted?
Your input is appreciated.
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Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
Haven't had experience with reflective glass beads. Only problem I can forsee is that the clear coat will have to be applied in 3-6 coats to smooth over the beads. I put beach sand on a frame once and then put 6 coats of clear, let it dry, sanded with wet 320, then 4 more coats of clear. Sorry, I didn't get pictures of that one. I did however just pick up a jar of Old School Flake's Micro Prism #005. I saw it on a truck at the paint store and had to get some. $30 4oz jar. They also has some AWESOME pearl chunks that I hope to try soon. $110 2oz jar. The micro prism is just that; idy biddy prisms that reflect a rainbow of colors. Can't wait to see what it looks like on a bike.
If you have a link to the supplier or Mfgr of the glass beads, I'd like to know more.
Thanks & good luck with that.
Ciao,
Dr.d
If you have a link to the supplier or Mfgr of the glass beads, I'd like to know more.
Thanks & good luck with that.
Ciao,
Dr.d
#12
Unique Vintage Steel
Great feedback on painting. I dove feetfirst into my first major painting job (see Barracuda Mk.I below) which came out decently for the materials used (Duplicolor cans). Ended up putting on 3 coats of clear on my finished frame, though never did get the smoothness and depth I wanted.
Of the paints that are avaliable to the general public - what types / brands are the most durable? My next paint I'd like to have a finished product that I'm not scared to death to lean against anything and everything that could possibly mark the finish. I understand that powdercoat near the top - but not exactly something you can do in your garage over a few weeks time.
Fantastic work on the frame above btw.
Of the paints that are avaliable to the general public - what types / brands are the most durable? My next paint I'd like to have a finished product that I'm not scared to death to lean against anything and everything that could possibly mark the finish. I understand that powdercoat near the top - but not exactly something you can do in your garage over a few weeks time.
Fantastic work on the frame above btw.
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Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
Anybody need help painting their trusty steed? I'm happy to answer any cycle related painting Q's.
'Been paintin since '72 so I've probably made every mistake in the book and then some. I truly understand the old adage; measure twice, cut once!
So I can help you avoid alot of those foibles, let me know.
Ciao 4 Now,
Dr.D
'Been paintin since '72 so I've probably made every mistake in the book and then some. I truly understand the old adage; measure twice, cut once!
So I can help you avoid alot of those foibles, let me know.
Ciao 4 Now,
Dr.D
Also, I've recently had a discussion on using polyurethanes intended for woodworking (such as Varathane) as a clearcoat for bicycles. Do you know anything about this topic? What is a safe alternative to two-part clearcoats that has greater durability than a rattle-can?
That dragon-scale frame looks fantastic. Thanks!
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I’m trying to get the paint off an old Cannondale frame. I tested a small area and the stripper seemed to work but I could tell that it’s going to be a long process to get both the (messed up) paint and the undercoat completely off.
This is what I’m using:
Kleen Strip KS-3 Semi-Paste Paint Remover
(This gallon of paint stripper has been in my basement for a few years.)
Is this the best – or nearly the best -- chemical stripper?
Great job on the dragon frame, Doc.
This is what I’m using:
Kleen Strip KS-3 Semi-Paste Paint Remover
(This gallon of paint stripper has been in my basement for a few years.)
Is this the best – or nearly the best -- chemical stripper?
Great job on the dragon frame, Doc.
__________________
Sheriff: You have a lot of experience with bounty hunters, do you?
Mattie Ross: That is a silly question. I am here to settle my father’s affairs.
Sheriff: All alone?
Mattie Ross: I am the person for it. Mama was never any good at sums and she could hardly spell “CAT”.
--from the movie True Grit (2010)
Sheriff: You have a lot of experience with bounty hunters, do you?
Mattie Ross: That is a silly question. I am here to settle my father’s affairs.
Sheriff: All alone?
Mattie Ross: I am the person for it. Mama was never any good at sums and she could hardly spell “CAT”.
--from the movie True Grit (2010)
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Dr. Deltron-just the person I need.How can you tell if a defect will show thru paint.I just steel-wool-600 grit papered out a rust spot on a steel framed bike.There is just a hint-barely a pinpoint-of the original defect left.How can I tell if the defect will or won't show thru new paint?
I dabbed on some spray enamel that I "caught" on a piece of foil.It didn't show after a day,and 2 dab coats.I have my doubts about this method of testing.
Does the surface have to be perfect ,or will paint cover tiny defects?I know with chrome plating,the surface has to be perfect.Thanks.Charlie
PS The reason I would settle for a less than perfect surface is that hand steel-wool-600 grit sandpaper is very hard work!I don't want to do more than is necessary to get a good result(or take off more metal than is necessary)
I dabbed on some spray enamel that I "caught" on a piece of foil.It didn't show after a day,and 2 dab coats.I have my doubts about this method of testing.
Does the surface have to be perfect ,or will paint cover tiny defects?I know with chrome plating,the surface has to be perfect.Thanks.Charlie
PS The reason I would settle for a less than perfect surface is that hand steel-wool-600 grit sandpaper is very hard work!I don't want to do more than is necessary to get a good result(or take off more metal than is necessary)
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Thanks, Doc.
I’m a little scared to use anything as rough as a steel wire brush on the Aluminum frame. I thought using something like a green “3M Scotch Brite” pad would be abrasive enough to loosen anything that’s ready to come off without scratching the frame material. I’m going to try your technique of brushing only in one direction.
Is there a downside to leaving the stripper on too long? I’ve heard that but never had the problem.
I’ve had a lot of fun working with Bondo – one of my favorite materials for auto, home and art projects. See my avatar? It’s a mask (part of a Halloween costume from 2002) based on the character “No-Face” from the movie Spirited Away. I’ve made Bondo-over-cardboard masks for the last four Halloweens.
Great fun.
I’m a little scared to use anything as rough as a steel wire brush on the Aluminum frame. I thought using something like a green “3M Scotch Brite” pad would be abrasive enough to loosen anything that’s ready to come off without scratching the frame material. I’m going to try your technique of brushing only in one direction.
Is there a downside to leaving the stripper on too long? I’ve heard that but never had the problem.
I’ve had a lot of fun working with Bondo – one of my favorite materials for auto, home and art projects. See my avatar? It’s a mask (part of a Halloween costume from 2002) based on the character “No-Face” from the movie Spirited Away. I’ve made Bondo-over-cardboard masks for the last four Halloweens.
Great fun.
__________________
Sheriff: You have a lot of experience with bounty hunters, do you?
Mattie Ross: That is a silly question. I am here to settle my father’s affairs.
Sheriff: All alone?
Mattie Ross: I am the person for it. Mama was never any good at sums and she could hardly spell “CAT”.
--from the movie True Grit (2010)
Sheriff: You have a lot of experience with bounty hunters, do you?
Mattie Ross: That is a silly question. I am here to settle my father’s affairs.
Sheriff: All alone?
Mattie Ross: I am the person for it. Mama was never any good at sums and she could hardly spell “CAT”.
--from the movie True Grit (2010)
#21
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Originally Posted by FastFreddy
I’m going to try your technique of brushing only in one direction.
Is there a downside to leaving the stripper on too long? I’ve heard that but never had the problem.
Is there a downside to leaving the stripper on too long? I’ve heard that but never had the problem.
Doc, thanks for the Miniwax recommendation. I've tried others of similar makeup, and I noticed that they either dried too fast, or if I could get heavy wet coats onto the frame, they would leave behind a bluish cast on yellows, reds, golds, etc. BryE and myself have been trying to find a suitable waterbased clearcoat for some time now, and have yet to discover anything worthwhile. Maybe I will try the Minwax after I try another type that I just receieved.
Thanks for the help and suggestions.
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What do you use to clean your gun after using one of the two-part automotive paints? I'd hate to have to use reducer for that purpose. It's expensive stuff.
#23
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Originally Posted by duane041
Another trick with stripper is to start working on the frame on a large plastic garbage bag. Have another bag handy, and when you are finished with applying the stripper, lay the frame on the first garbage bag and cover it with the other. This way, the stripper (even if applied incorrectly) will stay open much longer, and will have more time to attack the finish underneath. I got off the original finish of an 80's Cannondale this way, and it only took one pass with stripper.
My Cannondale has plastic cable guides which I’m afraid to try to remove for fear of breaking them. Did your bike have those and if so, did you remove them? I was thinking of just working around them with the stripper very carefully.
This has been a very helpful thread. My upcoming big project is the old (1990) Cannondale touring bike. It has over 45,000 miles (just the frame) and lots of life left in it.
__________________
Sheriff: You have a lot of experience with bounty hunters, do you?
Mattie Ross: That is a silly question. I am here to settle my father’s affairs.
Sheriff: All alone?
Mattie Ross: I am the person for it. Mama was never any good at sums and she could hardly spell “CAT”.
--from the movie True Grit (2010)
Sheriff: You have a lot of experience with bounty hunters, do you?
Mattie Ross: That is a silly question. I am here to settle my father’s affairs.
Sheriff: All alone?
Mattie Ross: I am the person for it. Mama was never any good at sums and she could hardly spell “CAT”.
--from the movie True Grit (2010)
#24
Unique Vintage Steel
Here's a fun one for you - paint code for the classic 'Marina blue' color often seen on vintage Chevy muscle cars. (Starting a collection of blue paint codes to choose from for future projects. )
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Dr Deltron-thanks for the info.I'm actually planning to redo the entire frame,not just spots.The original paint looked nice-pretty blue-but it was always soft.It is still soft now almost 30 years removed from the factory.I can scratch it easily with my fingernail,so everywhere there was a metal clamp,the paint failed on Mr Rust set up camp.
Nice Dragon-I would hate to guess how many hrs that work of art was.Thanks.Charlie
Nice Dragon-I would hate to guess how many hrs that work of art was.Thanks.Charlie