Chain Stretch: How to Deal With It
#1
Thread Starter
stress free.
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Northridge, CA
Bikes: no-name fixed conversion, a pony
Chain Stretch: How to Deal With It
Recently, my chain has become so stretched that it is now at the very end of the dropout. I haven't thrown the chain yet, but I am worried about any problems that may come because of the current tension.
Should I remove a link so I can adjust the tension? Would this compromise the total integrity of the chain? Should I purchase a new chain?
I'm riding from San Diego to Los Angeles this weekend and I'm trying to get all my eggs inside of a basket or whatever.
Should I remove a link so I can adjust the tension? Would this compromise the total integrity of the chain? Should I purchase a new chain?
I'm riding from San Diego to Los Angeles this weekend and I'm trying to get all my eggs inside of a basket or whatever.
#2
you should have purchased a new chain several months ago.
now you probably have to replace the cog as well.
and maybe even a chainring.
now you probably have to replace the cog as well.
and maybe even a chainring.
Last edited by baxtefer; 03-21-06 at 06:50 PM.
#8
Originally Posted by Coquelicot
why you need to buy a new cog and chainring as well?
i'll let sheldon explain it better.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2004
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From: So Cal
Bikes: peugot fixed, Steelman cyclocross, Yeti Kokopelli
Originally Posted by Coquelicot
why you need to buy a new cog and chainring as well?
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Salem, MA
Bikes: Land Shark, Level Professional, Tsunami singlespeed, Giant Reign 1
it should especially matter on a fixed gear setup. since the chain is only ever on one ring and one sprocket, the noticible wear will be accellerated. not to mention that the wear happens during pedaling and when applying backpressure.
if the chain is stretched that badly, the op will most definately need to get a new chain, chainring and cog and install them together. a single new part will wear fast and mimic the old wear pattern. a new chain is going to be noisy and rough.
if the chain is stretched that badly, the op will most definately need to get a new chain, chainring and cog and install them together. a single new part will wear fast and mimic the old wear pattern. a new chain is going to be noisy and rough.
#11
Thread Starter
stress free.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 22
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From: Northridge, CA
Bikes: no-name fixed conversion, a pony
God. Dammnit. Yeah, it's my fault for not being vigilant about monitoring my drivetrain, but still. ****.
I know I'm not going to be able to afford a new cog and chainring, but I can afford the chain. If I go through with using a new chain on the old setup, what will I risk? I really want to ride this weekend and I kind of don't have a choice, as trains don't run on the weekend.
This brings another question to mind; how often do you replace your chains? Furthermore, how often do you replace your chainring and cog?
I know I'm not going to be able to afford a new cog and chainring, but I can afford the chain. If I go through with using a new chain on the old setup, what will I risk? I really want to ride this weekend and I kind of don't have a choice, as trains don't run on the weekend.
This brings another question to mind; how often do you replace your chains? Furthermore, how often do you replace your chainring and cog?
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 1
From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by mmaceda
God. Dammnit. Yeah, it's my fault for not being vigilant about monitoring my drivetrain, but still. ****.
I know I'm not going to be able to afford a new cog and chainring, but I can afford the chain. If I go through with using a new chain on the old setup, what will I risk? I really want to ride this weekend and I kind of don't have a choice, as trains don't run on the weekend.
This brings another question to mind; how often do you replace your chains? Furthermore, how often do you replace your chainring and cog?
I know I'm not going to be able to afford a new cog and chainring, but I can afford the chain. If I go through with using a new chain on the old setup, what will I risk? I really want to ride this weekend and I kind of don't have a choice, as trains don't run on the weekend.
This brings another question to mind; how often do you replace your chains? Furthermore, how often do you replace your chainring and cog?
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 416
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From: So Cal
Bikes: peugot fixed, Steelman cyclocross, Yeti Kokopelli
I am not sure how bikes get handled on Amtrak. I think a lot of people probably take the train as opposed to riding Freeway. last time I checked civilians are allowed on Camp Pendleton. Pre 9/11 there was a trail. I think they may have closed this pathway.
#17
Thread Starter
stress free.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 22
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From: Northridge, CA
Bikes: no-name fixed conversion, a pony
Originally Posted by jamey
am i missing something here? a new chain is so cheap how could you let it get to that point?
Also, I am an idiot. A lot.
#18
Originally Posted by jamey
am i missing something here? a new chain is so cheap how could you let it get to that point?
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
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Originally Posted by mmaceda
You see, I am what you would call "new" at this thing. The only person helping me at the time was my dad who focuses in road cycling. Specifically speaking, he is a roadie; I guess chain wear is far less accelerated when riding with multiple gears and he failed to warn me of any such thing.
Also, I am an idiot. A lot.
Also, I am an idiot. A lot.
#20
Originally Posted by mmaceda
God. Dammnit. Yeah, it's my fault for not being vigilant about monitoring my drivetrain, but still. ****.
I know I'm not going to be able to afford a new cog and chainring, but I can afford the chain.
I know I'm not going to be able to afford a new cog and chainring, but I can afford the chain.
putting a new chain on worn teeth is worse than keeping the old chain.
#21
likes avocadoes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 1
From: oakland, ca
Bikes: heh, like that info would fit here...
If it is indeed that worn, it's better (safer) to replace nothing than just a chain. If you replace just the chain, I guarantee you'll toss it on that ride, probably within 2 blocks. If you haven't tossed the chain yet with your current setup, remove a link, reposition your wheel, and replace everything as soon as you can.
#22
Thread Starter
stress free.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 22
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From: Northridge, CA
Bikes: no-name fixed conversion, a pony
Originally Posted by r-dub
If it is indeed that worn, it's better (safer) to replace nothing than just a chain. If you replace just the chain, I guarantee you'll toss it on that ride, probably within 2 blocks. If you haven't tossed the chain yet with your current setup, remove a link, reposition your wheel, and replace everything as soon as you can.
#23
Dismount Run Remount etc.
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Some Latitude and Some Longitude
Bikes: A couple customs and some beaters.
Dumbest thread of the week for sure. If you're experienced enough to know about "chain stretch" (which is actually just the pins developing grooves on either side of the chain), then you certainly should know that by the time it elongates to a noticeable point, it should've been replaced long ago!
#24
Vanned.

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Bikes: 2006 Motobecane Le Champ SL, 2006 Mercier Kilo TT, 2004 Gary Fisher Tassajara
I don't even use a ruler for chain wear. I use an 8.5x11 piece of paper. I measure the distance from one link to 11 away (using the 11in side). If I eyeball about 1/16th of an inch wear, I replace. A cheap 1/8th chain is only $10 around here.
#25
Dismount Run Remount etc.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,235
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From: Some Latitude and Some Longitude
Bikes: A couple customs and some beaters.
Park makes a wonderful chain checker that measures for either .75 or 1 mm stretch, which if registered means "CHANGE THE CHAIN BEFORE YOU WRECK YRSELF."




